Thread about wheels

Soda can dan

Soda can dan

13
United States
Germantown wi.
Idk if it's in the right spot but I just bought another wheel. This will be my 3rd one. 2 were g29's and the one I just got is a T300rs. I would love a fanatec but according one is not in the books. Anyways I've never tried one but I have tried the T150 and thought it was a lot smoother, and had a all out better feel to it. I really don't know what to expect but I think it will be nicer. I know the features sure are. I got it on Amazon for $329.00 It's not the super high dollar model but as far as I e read it is upgradeable as far as wheels , pedals, and shifters go. I was trying to save money by buying used but they were still asking 3-400. Was it a decent move or another idiot move like I seem to make all the time
 
Thank you. Since posting last, I got my wheel. The thing is bangin and I absolutely love it BUT, (& there always is), after downloading and Installing the latest firmware I am starting to get ffb fade after about 15-20 laps (or 20-30 min) I don't have the Feb set high. I have the gain at about 70, the setting are as followed:
Informative
Gain: 65
Volume:50
Tone:50
FX: 40 AND
Spring: 0.40
Now grant it I haven't had the wheel for a long time , I was unplug it when I'm done because it seems to have a buzzing or humming noise from the wheel base as soon as I plug it into the wall. I don't know if that's normal or not. I've done all my research on it as much as I can and some ppl say it's normal and others say it's not. (That seems to be the trending results I always get when I have questions lol) anyways afyer the firm update, I opted to have the cooling fans always on as it seems to "fade" when it gets warm. I don't think it's HOT it just seems warm to the touch on the servos cover. I've seen mods where they drill holes for cooling and adding fans ECT. But I don't want to start drilli g he's in the damn thing it's BRAND new for Pete's sake. Please lmk if there is something I'm doing wrong or need to do differently. And
THANK YOU!!!!! for the help and patience with my old ass.
 
If you play on PC try to reduce the "overall strength of all forces" in the control panel.
Soda can dan
I opted to have the cooling fans always on as it seems to "fade" when it gets warm.
Click to expand...
The disadvantage of this wheel is that it overheats relatively easily.
Soda can dan
I don't think it's HOT it just seems warm to the touch on the servos cover.
Click to expand...
The plastic cover can be felt warm not hot but the motor temperature may be high enough to trigger the electric motor protection.
 
Ahh, I see. Seeing how it a brand new wheel, I started a return with Amazon and I am truly trying to hustle up another couple hunting and get a fanatec csl starter kit and be done with it. If it takes having the very best to just not have the stress or worry, I guess that's what I've got to do. I just wish for once and I mean it ONCE I didn't have to give 3 samples, my right eye, and a toe to not have to deal with this type of added cap. All I want to do in my late 40s early 50s is do my 9-5, raise my kids, and relax. But the harder I try, the further it gets out of my reach
 
Soda can dan
All I want to do in my late 40s early 50s is do my 9-5, raise my kids, and relax. But the harder I try, the further it gets out of my reach
Click to expand...

I remember waiting for the kids to go to bed before doing some time on GT with my Logitech wheel. Now in my 60s with a bit more disposable income and no kids at home, I can get better toys eg CSW 2.5 and loadcell pedals. Don't worry, it gets easier as you get older. The downside is that your reflexes get slower as you get older :) .... Just my 2 cents.
 
Just food for my thoughts,
I am playing on a ps4 and we know I am having these damn overheating issues (just my stupid luck) anyways, what are any other ppl ps4 settings? I run hard for about 3-4 hrs at a crack and am Always trying to get that last bit out of the car. I'm looking for wheel FFB settings that give me a realistic feeling of cars and not worry about losing FFB strength in the middle of the race (if even possible lol) I do love the wheel, it's starting to get that great grip to it from use and not be slick from being new. What cha got for your FFB settings?
 
Soda can dan
Just food for my thoughts,
I am playing on a ps4 and we know I am having these damn overheating issues (just my stupid luck) anyways, what are any other ppl ps4 settings? I run hard for about 3-4 hrs at a crack and am Always trying to get that last bit out of the car. I'm looking for wheel FFB settings that give me a realistic feeling of cars and not worry about losing FFB strength in the middle of the race (if even possible lol) I do love the wheel, it's starting to get that great grip to it from use and not be slick from being new. What cha got for your FFB settings?
Click to expand...

Do you use forced cooling?

See the manual for how to change the setting:

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00156.pdf
 
Use constant fan mode but still set the torque to only 3, occasionally 4. Sensitivity 10.
Any more than that and the vibration on understeer is just too horrible to bear.
 
Had this overheating issue but in project cars with my t300rs alcantara Now i have the csl elite and i really enjoy all games Return it if you can and buy a csl.
 
gt_fan
I remember waiting for the kids to go to bed before doing some time on GT with my Logitech wheel. Now in my 60s with a bit more disposable income and no kids at home, I can get better toys eg CSW 2.5 and loadcell pedals. Don't worry, it gets easier as you get older. The downside is that your reflexes get slower as you get older :) .... Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Experiencing the same upsides and downsides - have to use racing line in the corners to make sure I don't forget the corner coming up :) Haven't had any issues with my T 300 wheel so far and bought another (base servo) for my F1 rig
 
Soda can dan
I DO HAVE IT set to constant cooling. I've set the ffb up to where it isn't happening anymore and if it is, I haven't felt it lately
Click to expand...

Don't forget to leave the wheel and PS4 switched on until the wheel is completely cool and the fans have switched off. I have the T500RS and switching off the PS4 switches off the fans on the wheel - so therefore it needs to be left on - I find it takes the wheel about 45 minutes to fully cool after a one hour session. I am pretty sure that some of the unreliability problems with the T500 were caused by people letting the electronic circuits fry after a session!
 
Sick Cylinder
Don't forget to leave the wheel and PS4 switched on until the wheel is completely cool and the fans have switched off. I have the T500RS and switching off the PS4 switches off the fans on the wheel - so therefore it needs to be left on - I find it takes the wheel about 45 minutes to fully cool after a one hour session. I am pretty sure that some of the unreliability problems with the T500 were caused by people letting the electronic circuits fry after a session!
Click to expand...

Perhaps a little bit too carefull, I dont think that is neccessary. When not under load there wont be any heat buildup and the motor will naturally cool down.
 
PocketZeven
Perhaps a little bit too carefull, I dont think that is neccessary. When not under load there wont be any heat buildup and the motor will naturally cool down.
Click to expand...

I can't speak for the T300 as I don't have one, but the T500 has a large motor - the heat continues to build after you stop playing as the casing provides very poor ventilation - the motor is only cooled when the fans are on. In my experience it takes between twenty-five and forty-five minutes after ceasing racing, for the motor to get cool enough for the internal thermostat to switch the fans off. Switching them off when they should be on is foolhardy and I consider this a design fault by Thrustmaster - i.e they should stay on until the unit is cool even with the PlayStation off. My wheel is one of the very first series one models and I think careful cooldown of the unit is one of the things that has kept it alive so long.
 
Sick Cylinder
I can't speak for the T300 as I don't have one, but the T500 has a large motor - the heat continues to build after you stop playing as the casing provides very poor ventilation - the motor is only cooled when the fans are on. In my experience it takes between twenty-five and forty-five minutes after ceasing racing, for the motor to get cool enough for the internal thermostat to switch the fans off. Switching them off when they should be on is foolhardy and I consider this a design fault by Thrustmaster - i.e they should stay on until the unit is cool even with the PlayStation off. My wheel is one of the very first series one models and I think careful cooldown of the unit is one of the things that has kept it alive so long.
Click to expand...

The T300 has a design flaw (internal powersupply). The T500 actually is quite known to be very rigid.
 

Latest Posts

Back