I have had a few requests for pictures of modifying the Thrustmaster F1 wheel with SLI/Rotary/etc.
First tear apart the wheel and fill in the existing holes (I used JB Weld Kwik Plastic)
I then drilled the new holes and added knitter pushbutton switches
Next added rotary encoders.
Drilled/cut the SLI Pro holes. Note, I modified my SLI PRO to fit in the existing Thrustmaster area and look more F1 (yes I cut the circuit board and moved lower LEDs and C13 capacitors).
Next cover the wheel with 3M DI-NOC carbon fiber (use a heat gun to allow it to form to the handles, etc.). I also filled the Ferrari knob with Kwik Plastic and the center of a rotary knob so I could re-use it as a live knob.
I have an ECCI wheel so I modified the wires out to include the SLI PRO USB connector. Also used a NRG QR system (have this on my Momo also for non-F1 racing).
ECCI wheel with USB/ECCI connector support through NRG QR. The other buttons are the controls for the left and right buttkicker on my seat.
Hope this helps anyone modifying their TM F1. Great wheel now! Adding labels to wheel now...
Edit: I have had a lot of questions so here is more information:
You have to cut out a bunch of the ribs inside the wheel to allow room for the SLI Pro and the rotary switches. I just used an exacto knife and about 30 minutes labor.
Also, the shifter spring housings will not leave enough room for the rotary switches. I cut the spring housings off, cut the springs to 1/4 original length, and held the springs in with a flat plate screwed on using the existing shifter screws (if this makes sense). The shifters work just like they did before with the shorter springs. I will take pictures if I ever open the wheel back up...
Edit2:
Here is the modified shifter spring area. Also notice a lot of the plastic had to be cut out to allow rotary switches to fit inside wheel.
Here is the modified SLI Pro to fit in the TM F1 display area.
Completed wheel:
First tear apart the wheel and fill in the existing holes (I used JB Weld Kwik Plastic)
I then drilled the new holes and added knitter pushbutton switches
Next added rotary encoders.
Drilled/cut the SLI Pro holes. Note, I modified my SLI PRO to fit in the existing Thrustmaster area and look more F1 (yes I cut the circuit board and moved lower LEDs and C13 capacitors).
Next cover the wheel with 3M DI-NOC carbon fiber (use a heat gun to allow it to form to the handles, etc.). I also filled the Ferrari knob with Kwik Plastic and the center of a rotary knob so I could re-use it as a live knob.
I have an ECCI wheel so I modified the wires out to include the SLI PRO USB connector. Also used a NRG QR system (have this on my Momo also for non-F1 racing).
ECCI wheel with USB/ECCI connector support through NRG QR. The other buttons are the controls for the left and right buttkicker on my seat.
Hope this helps anyone modifying their TM F1. Great wheel now! Adding labels to wheel now...
Edit: I have had a lot of questions so here is more information:
You have to cut out a bunch of the ribs inside the wheel to allow room for the SLI Pro and the rotary switches. I just used an exacto knife and about 30 minutes labor.
Also, the shifter spring housings will not leave enough room for the rotary switches. I cut the spring housings off, cut the springs to 1/4 original length, and held the springs in with a flat plate screwed on using the existing shifter screws (if this makes sense). The shifters work just like they did before with the shorter springs. I will take pictures if I ever open the wheel back up...
Edit2:
Here is the modified shifter spring area. Also notice a lot of the plastic had to be cut out to allow rotary switches to fit inside wheel.
Here is the modified SLI Pro to fit in the TM F1 display area.
Completed wheel:
Last edited: