Tire load indicator

It shows how much of the weight of the car is on each tire
And when the dot turns red it means you are putting to much weight on the tire and its hurting the tire. The expanding circles around the dots show the weight distribution also.
Im not 100% sure on all this I just got it from my observations. And yes, its basically useless.
 
i tryed it before but it is like right in the middle of the screen so i dont really like using it but yes i bet it is very helpfull when tuning.
 
I use 100% of the time when practicing, tuning and racing. Even when I race endurance races of more than an hour. I love it!! It really helps for tuning cars to the limit wether its for hot laps or long stints in an endurance race. I typically start tuning the ride height if its turning red as this means the car is bottoming out which in return leads to slightly slower lap times and more tire wear. With this tool you can really push the car to its limits. I also use it to tune for endurance races, I run plenty of laps around which ever desired course and use elevated corners in general as my reference to wether the load indicator is under stress. 95% of the time you can tune out these undesired stress' but sometimes a particular turn is just absolutly stressful on your car and there's no way to tune around it. So if you understand tuning and are racing online pretty hardcore as far as long races and clean races, this device works well. I give it 2 👍
 
What track u drag racing on? Because it could be beneficial on certain tracks, such as le sarth & ssr7. It would not be any benefit really at indy. I don't drag race but take it for what's its worth. The reason I say le mans and ssr7 is because they are bumpy tracks and with this tool u could avoid bottoming out, which should slow you down. Some food for thought.
 
what about each circle in relationship to vibrating, what does that indicate? i've got the rear circles vibrating on Daytona oval more so on cornering.
 
What track u drag racing on? Because it could be beneficial on certain tracks, such as le sarth & ssr7. It would not be any benefit really at indy. I don't drag race but take it for what's its worth. The reason I say le mans and ssr7 is because they are bumpy tracks and with this tool u could avoid bottoming out, which should slow you down. Some food for thought.

No SSR7 is not bumpy. La Sarthe is.
 
what about each circle in relationship to vibrating, what does that indicate? i've got the rear circles vibrating on Daytona oval more so on cornering.

You want it to vibrate least as possible and do not want it to turn red there at daytone. If its red raise ride height and stiffen suspension (not wheel alignment) such as springs and dampers. Bottom circles are rear axles.
 
I just found out about the load indicator yesterday, I think that it totally could be used to help tune your car for drag. I went I a room with several people that I know and told them about it. I don't think anyone knew about that tool.
Nutz34
 
No SSR7 is not bumpy. La Sarthe is.

Well, here's what I know about tuning from racing, not drag racing.

Use tire load indicator to set your springs, dampers and ride height to no red flashing. Usually in a straight line though (such as drag racing) this won't turn red unless you have the ride height slammed all the way down to the ground. Another tip to use, to acheive max top speed, stiffest suspension (easiest way to avoid flashing red in tire load indicator). Since you are only going straight I would stiffen the car as much as possible. Lower ride height really only helps with turning and your center of gravity. And since you are going straight I would lift it up all the way. Full aero also takes a lot of top end off a car's max speed. Try no aero for most speed. Also if you are gunning for 200mph, set your trans to 220 - 230 (or higher to acheive drafting) to acheive the most from it. Say if you want to hit 180mph set default to 200mph. And for 150mph set to 165mph.

If I were to try to tune say a RWD Vintage Muscle Car I would try these settings out based on what I said above:

LSD - 60/60/5
Aero - 5/5 - lowest or take wing off at GT Auto for 1000cr
Trans - Depending on track or run / launch length, see above for more info
Brakes - 5/3
No Ballast - want the lightest car and no weight added to back wheels, you want the back end loose.

Suspension
RH - 0 to max, no negative - use Tire Load Indicator
SR - mid to hi - use Tire Load Indicator
Damp. Ext. - higher than usual but tryin to stay soft- use tire load indicator
Damp. Comp. - go for stiff, same value as Extension or typically one less.
Dampers coincide with the SR & RH. While using the Tire Load Indicator adjust these settings and tune to make your ride stiffer when turning red on indicator.
Anti-Roll-Bars - lowest possible, becasue drag racing and not turning

Example:
RH - 40/50
SR - 18/19.5 - little softer in front, use tire load to tune stiffer to 20 if possible
DE - 9/10 - softer front, use tire load to tune stiffer to 10 if possible
DC - 8/10 - softer front, use tire load to tune stiffer to 10 if possible
ARB- 1/1 - no turns do not need any more, maybe a 2 in front or on rear if needed

Wheel Alignment
Camber - 0/0 ....no turns, and do not need weight to balance on a tire through a turn here
Toe Angle - +0.05/0.0 ......no turn-ins in drag racing, only a little positive in front to ensure a straight line
 
A few of the thing's You said ken where wrong, You can't draft when dragging and You don't ever really wan't to stiffen your car all the way, You want the back end soft for a good launch while keeping the front low and raising the back, and SSR7 aint bumpy, it's as smooth as a baby's bum lol as for above i speak about tuning for tunnel.
 
A few of the thing's You said ken where wrong, You can't draft when dragging and You don't ever really wan't to stiffen your car all the way, You want the back end soft for a good launch while keeping the front low and raising the back, and SSR7 aint bumpy, it's as smooth as a baby's bum lol as for above i speak about tuning for tunnel.

Ya I know you cant draft when dragging lol, sorry about that. And I see what you mean about the back too. You want it softer to use all available grip as soon as launch, I get it now. It's the opposite for racing, where you try to conserve your tire and push hard when the moments right.

And yes typically in racing on road courses you lower the front to get a better turn-in (but lowering it doesn't make sense to me as there is no turns in drag racing, can you explain why this matters. Is it for better aerodynamics? I just don't think its in the best interest to bottom out and suffice a couple tenths. Please Explain this to me)

But I was refering to tuning with the tire load indicator, which is helpful as it indicates bottoming out among things. I don't drag race and have only road raced on ssr7 a few times. So I wasn't to sure on the surface of that road.

Does anybody drag at Monza?

What speeds to you typically hit in 1/4mi drag? Vintage Muscle in particular.

Do you set transmission high and use only a few gears? Or use all?


As I stated before I don't drag race, but I circuit race and oval race all kinds of RWD cars and race cars. But I particularly fancy the Vintage Muscle and was looking to get into one of these drag rooms.

So, if anyone wants to give me some tips before I ever go into a room and look like an a$$ please hit me back. Thanks
 
And yes typically in racing on road courses you lower the front to get a better turn-in (but lowering it doesn't make sense to me as there is no turns in drag racing, can you explain why this matters. Is it for better aerodynamics? I just don't think its in the best interest to bottom out and suffice a couple tenths. Please Explain this to me)
Low front, high rear gives you more traction 👍, but increases also the wind resistance 👎.

Do you set transmission high and use only a few gears? Or use all?
For tunnel you want to use as many gears as possible.
 
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