Too much power?

[deimos2567]

HI all, ive noticed that when i totally modify some cars i get constant wheel slip in the rear, this is even after putting stickier tires on the back, and tcs is on, yeah laugh away, but is there any other way to combat this, i mean this goes on even after im at speed, the tires will just slip thru all the gears, thanks for your help

 

[Scaff]

HI all, ive noticed that when i totally modify some cars i get constant wheel slip in the rear, this is even after putting stickier tires on the back, and tcs is on, yeah laugh away, but is there any other way to combat this, i mean this goes on even after im at speed, the tires will just slip thru all the gears, thanks for your help

Learn to modulate the throttle when you drive; and remember it is possiable to give a car too much power.

Real world example, the picture below is of a Pikes Peak RS200 with 840bhp; I saw it in action at Castle Coombe a few years ago and it spun the wheels in ALL gears on dry, hot tarmac with four wheel drive.

High power cars require a great deal of care with the throttle, and sometimes you will be faster if you spend the money in other areas.

 

[Velocity]

HI all, ive noticed that when i totally modify some cars i get constant wheel slip in the rear, this is even after putting stickier tires on the back, and tcs is on, yeah laugh away, but is there any other way to combat this, i mean this goes on even after im at speed, the tires will just slip thru all the gears, thanks for your help

You can also augment the TCS and the preassure sensitivity by turning down your Limited Slip. As you say what good is all that power if the wheels can't put it down on the road?

Try turning your Initial torque down around 7-10 and your acceleration slip down to about 9-15.

In a drag race this will slow you down a couple of tenths but your wheels will hook up faster as they are not being forced to handle all that power right away or so abruptly. It performs the same function pretty much as the TCS and preassure sensitivity except it doesn't retard the engine power, just how much makes it to the rear wheels. Once the wheels are hooked up and you're moving forward un hindered the loss of power is hardly noticeable.

Do not however, turn these all the way down or even enough (if possible) to entirely eliminate wheel slippage. You'd be losing to much power.

I find wheel slip through second gear is acceptable. After second though I want all that slippage out of the way.

I make regular use of the preassure sensitivity but it's impossible to get the same feel for throttle position on a button with a millimetre or two travel up and down than it is on a real gas pedal with like 8 inches of travel.

Hope this helps.

 

[Pontiac Le Mans]

In GT3, most powerfull cars gave handling problems when they were maxed-out. In many cases, it was possible to make them driveable with a good setup. I don't have enough experience in GT4-tuning to way whether this phenomenon amplified or diminished, but considering GT4 is more realistic than GT3, I suppose maxed-out cars will even be more difficult to handle. Good trottle-control will be needed.

 

[ZoomZoom]

I assume you have an upgraded suspension? Up your limited slip values, or go with a 1.5 way differential if you don't have a custom LSD... Ditto with traction control if still an issue, slowly move TCS up until you've controlled wheelspin...

Are you using the default settings for the suspension? Lots of times people make changes that may seem minor but can't have quite the negative effect.

 

[Relentless4ever]

You can also augment the TCS and the preassure sensitivity by turning down your Limited Slip. As you say what good is all that power if the wheels can't put it down on the road?

Try turning your Initial torque down around 7-10 and your acceleration slip down to about 9-15.

In a drag race this will slow you down a couple of tenths but your wheels will hook up faster as they are not being forced to handle all that power right away or so abruptly. It performs the same function pretty much as the TCS and preassure sensitivity except it doesn't retard the engine power, just how much makes it to the rear wheels. Once the wheels are hooked up and you're moving forward un hindered the loss of power is hardly noticeable.

Do not however, turn these all the way down or even enough (if possible) to entirely eliminate wheel slippage. You'd be losing to much power.

I find wheel slip through second gear is acceptable. After second though I want all that slippage out of the way.

I make regular use of the preassure sensitivity but it's impossible to get the same feel for throttle position on a button with a millimetre or two travel up and down than it is on a real gas pedal with like 8 inches of travel.

Hope this helps.

Agreed on all counts, but curious, you have the pressure sensitive buttons (then you must have the 2 joysticks. I use the second joystick for throttle controle and break control, I can understand how a button (even if pressure sensitive) could compare, why dont you use that, It will advance you throttle and break controle greatly. (I still use the button pad to steer, I find it more accurate and I can make more minute adjustments)

BACK ON TOPIC

Yup this Dude is right TCS and LSD adjustments can help a bunch, but diferent cars may need diferent adjustments to acheve the same goal, what cars are you having trouble with? There are a few set ups for certain cars that are pretty good, do a search for the cars your having dificulty with, if none availible, you can make a request.

 

[Greyout]

You can also augment the TCS and the preassure sensitivity by turning down your Limited Slip. As you say what good is all that power if the wheels can't put it down on the road?

Try turning your Initial torque down around 7-10 and your acceleration slip down to about 9-15.

In a drag race this will slow you down a couple of tenths but your wheels will hook up faster as they are not being forced to handle all that power right away or so abruptly. It performs the same function pretty much as the TCS and preassure sensitivity except it doesn't retard the engine power, just how much makes it to the rear wheels. Once the wheels are hooked up and you're moving forward un hindered the loss of power is hardly noticeable.

Do not however, turn these all the way down or even enough (if possible) to entirely eliminate wheel slippage. You'd be losing to much power.

Sorry, this makes no sense. I don't think you have a firm grasp on how an LSD works.

increasing the limted slip value will reduce wheel spin from acceleration, especially when cornering. But it won't reduce power output.

 

[Velocity]

Sorry, this makes no sense. I don't think you have a firm grasp on how an LSD works.

increasing the limted slip value will reduce wheel spin from acceleration, especially when cornering. But it won't reduce power output.

I'll be honest this is news to me. My above method is based on GT3 wether or not it worked for reasons I thought it was.

I always figured, (being as the explanation ticker in the game is so vague) that turning the number values down decreased power to the wheels. Everytime I did this in GT3 the car seemed less prone to smashing the wall when accelerating out of a turn.

So your saying that turning the LSD numbers up increases the LSD effect on the power I.E. prevents slippage?

Well you do learn something new everyday. I can't help but wonder if this was reversed in GT3 however.

So I assume from this that the same is true for the suspension settings, specifically Rebound and Bound. I've read the tuning guides but they seem to contradict one another a certain spots. In simplest terms if I turn the the Rebound up I.E. level 8 then this means that the the shock will return to neutral faster or will it be slower to do so?

Anyone that can clear that one up for me deserves a puddin'!

 

[Velocity]

Agreed on all counts, but curious, you have the pressure sensitive buttons (then you must have the 2 joysticks. I use the second joystick for throttle controle and break control, I can understand how a button (even if pressure sensitive) could compare, why dont you use that, It will advance you throttle and break controle greatly. (I still use the button pad to steer, I find it more accurate and I can make more minute adjustments)

I've been hearing about using the right stick for throttle control and it does sound interesting. However I don't know how that'll feel for gear shifting. I do all my shifting with the R1 for up and R2 for down. I am going to try it though. The X button may not be quite sensitive enough for this game.

Thanks for the reminder.

 

[MoZqUiTo]

*OFF TOPIC*
honestly, this iz one of my 1st driving games in which i DON'T use the buttons and rather use my stick. (uhm...u kno wat i mean )

*BACK ON TOPIC*
i had tha same problem wen i 1st bought, and fixed up my Viper GTS '99....tha 1st 3-4 gearz were jus plain burning rubber. Sooo....not only did i op 4 better grip tires, but i removed my weight reduction kitz and added weight wit tha ballast, sacrificing a bit of acceleration and cornering (mite not have been tha smartest thing to do, but still...performs alot better than before.)

 

[High-Test]

More torque + more wheelspin. My Buick Special has 921 ft.lbs, and spins the back wheels in a straight line at 100.

 

[Velocity]

More torque + more wheelspin. My Buick Special has 921 ft.lbs, and spins the back wheels in a straight line at 100.

Love this fact about older cars in particular. Some people don't realize that these old engines don't have a high red line because they have such a long stroke. Long stroke=Massive torque. But being as the piston has a physically longer distance to travel up and down it can't possibly do it as fast as a short stroke "revver engine".

I don't know why I felt the need to inform but there you have it. Anyone who wants it that is...