Touring Car Masters 1963-1978

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05XR8

05XR8

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Australia
Australia
Basic set ups for this 700BHP Australian classic series https://touringcarmasters.com.au/drivers/

However you tune your cars, all cars run close together from PP 675.54 - 674.07. The cars are very lively. So, adjust as needed.
Recommend changing the Challenger Final Drive to 3.91(matches the Boss 429 standard Final Drive). For some reason, acceleration is much slower with the Challenger, than the Super Bee, with the standard Final Drive.

Coyote engine chosen for the Mach 1, as that redlines to nearly 8500rpm(can max at 706BHP/73.2kgfm). Standard Mach 1 351 max power upgrades(w/SC) at 601BHP/78.5kgfm, redline less than 6900rpm.

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Mach 1 NA w/Aero
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1969 Trans-American Mustang Boss specs

Allan Moffat's 1969 Trans-Am Mustang - Motorsport Retro

Allan Moffat’s immortal 1969 Trans Am Mustang is one of the greats of Australian motorsport. The car won 101 of 151 races it contested, and today it continues to thrill crowds as part of ...
www.motorsportretro.com www.motorsportretro.com
SPECIFICATION

ALLAN MOFFAT’S 1969 TRANS AM MUSTANG

Ford Mustang 1969 1 of 7 Manufactured
Engine
Engine Type: Boss 302
No of Cylinders: 8
Cubic Capacity: 5000
Horsepower: 485
Aspiration: Quad 48 IDA Webers
Gearbox
Number of Gears: 4
Transmission Type: Borg Warner T-10, or Ford Toploader
Front Suspension Type
Kar Kraft coil spring above upper ‘A’ Frame with Koni shock absorber, heavy duty springs and sway bar.
Rear Suspension Type
Rear Kar Kraft heavy duty rear leaf springs with additional radius rods to control axle wind up, Koni shock absorbers & a trick Watts link.
Front Brake Type
Four Spot, Kelsey-Hayes Callipers
Rear Brake Type
Four Spot, Kelsey-Hayes Callipers
Wheel Type
UK Minilite
Wheel Size
Rim Width Front 15″ x 8″ Rim Width Rear 15″ x 10″

2900 lbs (1315 kgs) for Group II 5.0 litre cars
 
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05XR8
Are you making any tweaks to the set up?
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This was the pre-1.23 setup:

You didn’t list your GTAuto parts, so I had to guess a bit. Wide wheels/wide offset

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Post-1.23 required an additional 15 KG of ballast and a 1 point reduction in the Restrictor to get her back under 700.
 
shadow0460
Engine balancing increases the Coyote's red line to 8,500?? IRL it red lines at 7,000.
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I’ll have a look and build another one to see where redline raises, when servers are up. I think it’s the ECU with the other parts that raises it. When I first built them, I just added all the parts and used bumpercam when I was done, to check rpm. Didn’t check after adding part by part.

Edi: Okay. Servers are up. The cut off raises from 7500 to 7725, with just the ECU.
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Here’s the rev counter. Normal ECU and Fully Custom.
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Edit2: ECU & Balancing 7750 redline, 8111 limit.
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ECU, Balancing and Highlift Camshaft 8000 redline, 8435 limit
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Racing Crankshaft added: 8250 redline, 8688 limit
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That’s as high as it’ll rev. Adding the Rods & Pistons and polishing ports doesnt aid in raising the revs(added air filter and exhaust manifold). Max power: 593 BHP, 8250rpm is the redline and 8688rpm is the limit. Good stuff.
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PD got it wrong on that engine, then. The redline in my F-150 is 7,000 and it will definitely shift just before it hits that.
I bet they also left out the launch mode. On a standing start with a stock Coyote, the rev limit is 4,500 RPM. It'll rev to that and hold until the vehicle starts moving. That limits the torque input to the transmission and also provides max power to jump start a vehicle without redlining the engine.
If you engage the launch mode, it'll still break the rear tires loose when you release the brakes. I have never tried it with the four wheel drive engaged.
Rods, pistons, crank, balancing, etc. should raise the maximum redline and retuning or replacing the ECU will change the preset limit.
 
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Guess I'm doing it right, my speed is off the scale! Neverind the miles remaining, I just left the pits with a fresh set of CH tires. According to the gauge I can go 7 more laps before pitting again. I also need to remove some "ballast" (fishing supplies) from the back seat, lol.
This is the dashboard in my F-150 STX 4x4. It has the same Coyote engine PD tried to emulate in game with a 10.5 compression ratio. The torque and HP curves are different from the Mustang Coyote, so is the upper intake.
Cross the Raptor with the Coyote engine and lose the wide body and that's what I drive every day.
Redline IRL is 7,000, different from what it is in GT7. I'd take a pic of it at top speed but the police might not like that.
Oh, stock HP is 396 on ethanol. I forget the torque, close to 500 I think.
 

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Unfortunately, we can’t undo parts like rods and crankshaft, etc. only bolt-on parts: manifolds, ECU and exhaust. The rev limit would only drop a bit if select the Normal ECU.

As for your F-150, I'm surprised it doesn't have an overrun, if the redline is 7000. Should at least read 7500 or 8000 with the fuel cut at about 7200. Interesting.
 
05XR8
Unfortunately, we can’t undo parts like rods and crankshaft, etc. only bolt-on parts: manifolds, ECU and exhaust. The rev limit would only drop a bit if select the Normal ECU.

As for your F-150, I'm surprised it doesn't have an overrun, if the redline is 7000. Should at least read 7500 or 8000 with the fuel cut at about 7200. Interesting.
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True. They've never let us undo some stuff in game, but this time it's only some engines we can't do that to. You could buy a new engine but it won't be a Coyote.
I got into that situation with a Cappuccino and a rotary engine. It won't make PP for the Autopolis race, it gets to 407 and won't drop any further.
I was hard on the throttle yesterday getting on the freeway in my truck. I watched it shift at 6,500 RPM with about 90% throttle.
 
The PP would have changed after those last few updates. I've got the cars stock engines sans supercharger as well. More Trans-Am level, but with TCM suspension settings.
 
05XR8
The PP would have changed after those last few updates. I've got the cars stock engines sans supercharger as well. More Trans-Am level, but with TCM suspension settings.
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You could then have two separate classes, with and without forced induction. That’ll be on my list. I’ll be trying your set ups on my naturally-aspirated cars.
 
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I'm waiting on the GTO and the Firebird to come back so I can re-arrange my Trans Am grid. I have the rest of them,(4-5 each).

They sure are a blast at Road Atlanta, The Glen, and Willow Springs. Fast, but not overwhelming like the Group C and LMP cars.
 
At least now I can run the 4-speed without having to tune a five-speed.

Swapped the Voodoo. Closer to a 5L Trans-Am motor anyway. That fuel cutoff though. :eek::scared::drool:
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OldandSlow
Have you managed to control the wheelspin with the Voodoo?
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I think PD solved that. Before the last update, the Full Custom suspension tuning for Gr.4 cars was F3.00/R2.80 Hz. Now, it’s F3.00/R3.20 Hz.
Damper Ratio and Differential changed as well for Gr.3 were as seen in the RX-V Stealth
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Now as per the RSR
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I’ve combined the settings. Never had a problem with the Boss, but handles real nice.
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The Superbird returned so I’ll try these settings for that.
 
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Excellent. I'll have to re-visit the Boss. Many years ago, I owned a '70 Boss 302. I wish they had that in the game rather than the 429. The big-block Mustangs handled like trucks.
 
05XR8
Damper Ratio and Differential changed as well for Gr.3 were as seen in the RX-V Stealth


Now as per the RSR
Click to expand...
I dont understand why you use 2 different cars to try to show that suspension settings have been adjusted?
As far as my old BoP copied tuning sheets go, they are still the same from whenever I created them (except for power and weight).
It simply comes down to that different cars have different default setups (also some have a different aero setup).
 
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