Trying to replicate real car setting into game

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I don't think I am the only one who is thinking this... but I don't see much threads regarding this. Have you guys thought about replicating your RL car setup into the game and see how if feels different/same/crappy/good/sad?

I am trying to do this and any input/correction would be appreciated.

Car: 2002 Subaru WRX (in game, I guess 00' STI will have to do since they don't have a regular WRX)


Power mods: I won't be doing any engine mods or turbo upgrade b/c I think STI already over powers my car with all the mods I have (which isn't much ^^;; )


Suspension: Not sure which suspension kit I need to buy... read below...

Spring Rate:
I have a coilover that has a spring rate of 325 lb/in (F) and 225 lb/in (R). I did a little math and it came out to 5.8 kgf/mm (F) 4.0 kgf/mm (R). Can anyone varify this?

Damper:
The coilover is 24 way adjustable... it is set at 20 (F) and 22 (R). Since GT4 has 1~10 scale and my coilover has 1~24 scale, I guess I'll have to use a ratio to figure this out... so... it comes out to 8 (F) and 9 (R) in GT4 setting.

Ride Height:
I lowered the car about an inch from stock height.... so I guess I'll lower the car 25 mm from the original setting...

Camber: I have -1.8 (F) and 0.0 (R) camber dialed in on my car... so... will use same setting.

Toe: All zeroed out...

Stablelizer bar: I am not really sure how I need to set this up... I have 20 mm front sway bar and 24 mm rear sway bar... it is a 2 mm upgrade in the front and 4 mm upgrade in the back (I believe the stock cars have 18 mm front bar and 20 mm rear bar)... so increase the setting to 6 (F) and 8 (R)? Help me out here? hehe ^^;;;


Drivetrain: I don't have 6 gears on my car, but I'll have to live with it... :sly:

Clutch: I upgrade my clutch sport... so I guess sport clutch for GT4

Flywheel: I resurfaced and lightened the stock flywheel... so sports flywheel in GT4?

No other upgrade from drivetrain


Brakes:
No upgrade since all I upgraded was SS lines, new fluids, and pads.


Tire:
Not sure about this one either... I use Falken ST-115... N2?


Other:
No weight reduction, roll cage, but will do chassis refresh.


Rims:
I have rota torques (which is a replica of WORK Emotion wheel... can't seem to find one that looks like it... if anyone knows which wheel it is please let me know :D)

Did I forget anything?

I will be driving this on autumn ring mini since I used to AutoX with this car.. hopefully it will be fun...

Please add any comments or changes that you think I need to do to make it as realistic as possible? Thanks!

edit: added wheel info... I know it doesn't matter for performance... but just trying to replicate my car into GT4 as closely as possible :D
 
r_master78
Spring Rate:
I have a coilover that has a spring rate of 325 lb/in (F) and 225 lb/in (R). I did a little math and it came out to 5.8 kgf/mm (F) 4.0 kgf/mm (R). Can anyone varify this?

Stablelizer bar: I am not really sure how I need to set this up... I have 20 mm front sway bar and 24 mm rear sway bar... it is a 2 mm upgrade in the front and 4 mm upgrade in the back (I believe the stock cars have 18 mm front bar and 20 mm rear bar)... so increase the setting to 6 (F) and 8 (R)? Help me out here? hehe ^^;;;

the spring rates appear to be calculated properly, i double checked it for you.

my concern is the stabilizers - the stiffness of your bar is going to depend on more than just its thickness. It will likely be determined by the material's plastic deformation rate, Young's Modulus of Elasticity, and its compressive and tensile loading characteristics (there's probably more factors than this which i am unaware of). Cross sectional area definitely plays some role in determining its stiffness, since a larger area reduces the stress it is subject to. But it doesnt tell the whole story.
You might just have to guess at that setting - particularly since no units are given to the setting in the game.
 
TankSpanker
the spring rates appear to be calculated properly, i double checked it for you.

my concern is the stabilizers - the stiffness of your bar is going to depend on more than just its thickness. It will likely be determined by the material's plastic deformation rate, Young's Modulus of Elasticity, and its compressive and tensile loading characteristics (there's probably more factors than this which i am unaware of). Cross sectional area definitely plays some role in determining its stiffness, since a larger area reduces the stress it is subject to. But it doesnt tell the whole story.
You might just have to guess at that setting - particularly since no units are given to the setting in the game.

Thanks for the reply. I guess I'll just have to play around with stabilizers a bit...
 
Just as a side, you could set up your tranny like your real car still if you already haven't. If all you have is a 5 speed, but you know the gear ratios then just set the first 5 gears like your car and make 6th retardedly steep so you'll quickly remember not to bother using it.

Just a thought. Sounds pretty cool what you're doing. Wish I had a car I could do the same with. Let us know how it goes!
 
Thanks for the reply guys... I haven't thought about the gear ratio!!! Good catch! I'll do that when I get back from lunch :) I should be able to find gear ratio info on-line somewhere.

As for the replica. I am having so much fun :) The car actually drives similar to the real life counter-part. Also, I was able to win Subaru one-make race (forgot the exact name) with about 120pt A-spec points on each race. I also tried drifting, but I think I suck at drifting...

One thing that I needed a bit of adjustment was on the stabilizers and ride height. I tried lowering 25mm from original setting, but it made the car too low... there was no fender gap or nothing... So I had to look up some numbers of stock ride height and impliment few calculations so the car looks more like mine in real life.

I know the settings can't be perfectly real, but I am trying to get it as close as I can to the real car...
 
I've made a pretty good mock of my Miata. Although my GT4 version more than likely has more power. I'm running 2.5" straight back no cat or resonator, so I bought the racing exhaust. I'm running Web Cams and Unorthodox Underdrive pulleys, so I bought the Stage 2 N/A Tune. Home ghetto garage intake manifold porting, so I bought the port and polish (even though mine isnt as extensive). My coilovers were already rated at 6Kg/mm (F) and 4.5Kg/mm (R). Adjustable swaybars F/R, so I tweeked the sways a tad similar to my setup. I bought the rollcage too, even though I only have a roll-bar. I also bought Stage 1 & 2 Weight Reduction cause I'm running a carbon fiber hood, trunk, and headlight eyelids. I can say it does drive like my car, and it doesn't at the same time. Perhaps its just not the same feeling without a steering wheel. I did romp the rest of the Miatas in the 4HR Tsukuba Enduance though.
 
Wow, you did lots to your car :) I didn't put any parts on the car b/c I was trying to match HP in game and in RL (which is kinda impossible now b/c I took out all my power mods out :( But I kept all my suspension mod, so I can still have fun around the twisty~~ yah~~ :D )

Not sure if anyone else is interested in this or doing such setup as mine and droptop, but I've been having fun~ and here is another question for those who are interested...

I am still having trouble with the gear ratio... I looked up gear ratio on google and inputted those valvues into gt4 (from 1st gear ~ 3rd gear was an exact match, but couldn't get 4th and 5th matched up). maybe my data is faulty? maybe it is the limitation of the game? I think the cause of this is due to the game having 6 gears and my real car only have 5th gear... here is the gear ratio I was trying to input...

1st 3.454
2nd 1.947
3rd 1.366
4th 0.972
5th 0.738
Final 3.900

I also noticed that top speed on each gear didn't match up because in-game car has 8k rev limit and my car has 7.? k Is there some type of calculation that I can do to change the gear ratio to match the top speed on each gear? Thanks in advance for the help :)
 
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