Tuning Question On Suspension (car shaking on turns)

163
United States
San Diego
Beginner tuner here. Still learning the ins and outs of tuning. I feel that i need the most help with knowing what to look for while driving the car and than what to adjust to fix the issue. I have had more than a few things happen that I'm not sure what setting to adjust.
But for now I'm just asking this one particular question. The car I'm tuning at the moment shakes sometimes from mid-turn to exit. Anyone have a few ideas what it could be and what settings i should play with to help the car not shake?
Let me know if there is more information i can provide to help you help me. Thank you! :)
 
I had a similar experience recently with an LFA, in that case I reduced the rear anti-roll bar and sorted the problem. However it did take a while to get to that answer. Have a look at your car when driving hard, from the chase cam. If your front is rolling ok and the rear looks solid and doesn't roll much(side to side leaning.) and the car looks like it is turning in stages, so to speak this could be your problem.It could also be a ride height issue.

If that doesn't help, I'm sure some of the more experienced tuners will probably chip in with some solutions for you later, but if you can provide a bit more information It would be helpful, what type of corner do you feel it in most? how low is ride height? does it happen as you start to accelerate or is it further out of the corner? And what drivetrain are you tuning?

If you still have no luck later, try having a look at @Dolhaus' tuning guide, or @Motor City Hami's problem solving guide in his garage. They are both super useful.
 
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Beginner tuner here. Still learning the ins and outs of tuning. I feel that i need the most help with knowing what to look for while driving the car and than what to adjust to fix the issue. I have had more than a few things happen that I'm not sure what setting to adjust.
But for now I'm just asking this one particular question. The car I'm tuning at the moment shakes sometimes from mid-turn to exit. Anyone have a few ideas what it could be and what settings i should play with to help the car not shake?
Let me know if there is more information i can provide to help you help me. Thank you! :)
Would you mind putting the tune up so we can have a look? Please make sure to include the tyre type.
It sounds like the springs/dampers might be too stiff for the tyres and is causing them to hop and bounce sideways when load is applied. Could also be the shocks bottoming out due to the ride height being too low. It could also be the ARBs as @Thorin Cain mentions, it could be a multitude of things but we won't really know until we see what you're playing with.
 
I have experienced a little shaking too, like others have said, it's usually because of suspension settings being too high. What I found helped the most is tuning the suspension last. Try and tune the drivetrain and/or downforce first. Raise the front DF and lower rear DF on oversteery cars, the opposite for understeery cars.

If a car is oversteery, lower the acceleration sensitivity in the drivetrain section. Raise it for understeery cars. Once you find it turns in better, if you find it snaps oversteer as you exit the turn, raise the initial torque. If you have trouble braking in an oversteery car while entering a turn, try raising the braking sensitivity.

Back to the suspension, first I 'd suggest loading the defaults again. If you still find it loses traction in the rear, lower the rear ride height (they are backwards in GT6 - front is back and back is front :eyeroll: ) and raise the front ride height.

In GT6 it helps to have front and back camber at 0's. To help dial in more oversteer, add a positive amount of front toe and negative amount of rear toe. I think all cars have rear toe of .2, so try setting it to 0 with positive front toe and see how it feels. Negative front toe and positive rear toe will make the car a little more understeery.

From there, I usually find the default dampers are usually fine, maybe soften the extension dampers a little for tracks with high rumble strips. The last thing I typically adjust is the sway bar, if you want a little faster turn in, raise both the front and rear ARB and lower it for a softer turn in. For oversteery cars I usually have the rear ARB a couple ticks lower than the front, the more separation between the two can help dial out oversteer.

HTH!


Jerome
 
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@Thorin Cain / @DolHaus / @ImToLegitToQuit - Thank You for the replies! Im currently not home and at work. As soon as i get home i will post my current settings and reply to your comments. Thanks again, ttys! :)
Heres a tuning sheet to help you get the relevent details, feel free to ignore the transmission and parts list bits as they shouldn't be important in this instance

Car:

Wheel / Controller:
Power:
Weight:
Performance Points:
Tires:

Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)

Ride Height:
Spring Rate:
Dampers (Compression):
Dampers (Extension):
Anti-Roll Bars:
Camber Angle (-):
Toe Angle:

Brakes:
Bias:

Transmission: (Fully Customisable Transmission)

Set final to:

Speed:

1:
2:
3:
4:
5:
6:

Final:

Limited Slip Differential: (Fully Customizable Mechanical Limited-Slip Differential)

Initial Torque:

Acceleration Sensitivity:
Braking Sensitivity:
Clutch & Flywheel:
Drive Shaft:
Center Differential:

Power

Oil Change:

Power Limiter:
Engine Tuning:
Computer:
Exhaust:
Exhaust Manifold:
Catalytic Converter:
Intake Tuning:
Turbo Kit: Stage:
Nitrous Oxide (N2O):

Body

Body Rigidity Improvement:

Weight Reduction:
Hood:
Windows:
Ballast:
Ballast position:
 
@Thorin Cain / @DolHaus / @ImToLegitToQuit / @Jump_Ace

Sorry guys for taking so long to get back to ya. Been busy and havnt had a moment for GT. As Far as the car I'm tuning at the moment, it is the Subaru BRZ S '12. I was recommended this car for a beginner tune. So far I'm really enjoying the car and i like that it gives obvious feedback when making changes to the tune.
As far as the shaking goes, I didn't have a specific set tune that was giving me shaking (I should have been more clear when posting my question). It was more that while i was testing different settings to the suspension only, i found shaking happening more often than not.
I would try to make high influenced Oversteer settings or Understeer settings to find what exactly was making the shaking happen. I couldn't figure it out so thats why i came here to see if it was just a simple fix like. (EX- more rear ARB) or something like that.
It looks like from your guys post above that it isn't something that is a simple one setting fix and that it could be coming from a multitude of settings. Because i wasn't referring to one particular tune, i will post a tune that the BRZ does do some shaking.
Again thanks you guys for taking the time. You all have already help me out a ton with the info above! :)



Car: BRZ S '12

Wheel / Controller: DS3
Power: 283
Weight: 1030
Performance Points: 491
Tires: Sport soft


Suspension: (Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)

Ride Height: 90 / 90
Spring Rate: 8.00 / 8.25
Dampers (Compression): 3 /3
Dampers (Extension): 3 / 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 / 3
Camber Angle (-): 0 / 0
Toe Angle: 0 / 0


Brakes: 5 / 5
Bias: 53 / 47


Transmission: (Fully Customisable Transmission)

Set final to: 5.500

Speed: 112

1: 3.730
2: 2.470
3: 1.885
4: 1.510
5: 1.260
6: 1.075


Final: 3.800

Limited Slip Differential: (Fully Customizable Mechanical Limited-Slip Differential)
Initial Torque: 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 40
Braking Sensitivity: 20
Clutch & Flywheel: triple plate
Drive Shaft: carbon drive shaft


Power
Oil Change: yes
Power Limiter: 100.0%
Engine Tuning:---
Computer: sports comp
Exhaust: racing exhaust
Exhaust Manifold: isometric exhaust manifold
Catalytic Converter: sports
Intake Tuning: intake tuning (not standard)
Turbo Kit: Stage:---Nitrous Oxide (N2O): ---


Body
Body Rigidity Improvement: ---
Weight Reduction: stage 3
Hood: carbon hood
Windows: window weight reduction
Ballast:---
Ballast position:---

Downforce: 0-front
10-rear

EDIT- All aids off except ABS at 1. test track -full Autumn Ring, turn 11 most shaking
 
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I find a lot of cars shake for that sweeping right at Autumn Ring, if it doesn't disturb your concentration and the car still handles fine it's probably okay. Nothing in your settings jump out at me like 'WTF you doin' homie!?' They look good 👍 Maybe, increase the rear DF (try 15 then 20) and see how it feels? Sometimes low rear DF lets the car slide too much causing lateral tire wear that may cause the skipping?

I have a hunch if you take the car to Silverstone or a relatively flat track you won't get the shaking. Does the shaking feel worse if you take a lap at the Nurburging Nordschliefe? That would certainly be a good test.


Jerome
 
This is purely an educated guess, it could either be that you are bottoming out the suspension (raise ride height equally both ends and see if the problem persists), the springs might be too soft for the tyres causing the body to roll which can make the car hop sideways when load is applied (+2kg both ends and test again). The setup looks fine though, no obvious problems with it, it could just be as @Jump_Ace says, more the tracks fault than the setup. Mount Panorama will do similar things to a well set up car, feels great everywhere else, feels like its got wooden wheels at bathurst.
 
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I find a lot of cars shake for that sweeping right at Autumn Ring, if it doesn't disturb your concentration and the car still handles fine it's probably okay. Nothing in your settings jump out at me like 'WTF you doin' homie!?' They look good 👍 Maybe, increase the rear DF (try 15 then 20) and see how it feels? Sometimes low rear DF lets the car slide too much causing lateral tire wear that may cause the skipping?

I have a hunch if you take the car to Silverstone or a relatively flat track you won't get the shaking. Does the shaking feel worse if you take a lap at the Nurburging Nordschliefe? That would certainly be a good test.


Jerome
This is purely an educated guess, it could either be that you are bottoming out the suspension (raise ride height equally both ends and see if the problem persists), the springs might be too soft for the tyres causing the body to roll which can make the car hop sideways when load is applied (+2kg both ends and test again). The setup looks fine though, no obvious problems with it, it could just be as @Jump_Ace says, more the tracks fault than the setup. Mount Panorama will do similar things to a well set up car, feels great everywhere else, feels like its got wooden wheels at bathurst.
All i have to say is Wow! You guys have given me an immense amount of USEFUL knowledge. I'm going to copy/paste all of it in my personal tuning guide i use for myself to refer too when tuning my cars. I really appreciate having people like you guys that can just lay down info that is plain and simple. ( @DolHaus - General Tuning Guide )

As far as the shaking goes, No it does not affect my concentration or even really my driving either. I just figured i was tuning something incorrectly. I felt that the car was not supposed to shake like that but I'm starting to think it may be more of the track than the tune like u guys pointed out. When i get in front of my PS3 i will run the same setup on a different course and see what happens. Again Thank you!
 
I drove your car at autumn ring, mt. panorama, and nurburgring GP/F. I didn't experience much shaking/chattering at autumn ring except for just a split second so that's why i took it to two of the tracks that can really mess up the balance of a stiff car.

Before I get into the results I wanted to say that for a beginner tuner you seem to be on the right track. I'm going to assume that it's not a complete tune and is still a WIP. Your car I think would best be described as "safe", which isn't a bad thing at all. You take an oversteery and drifty car and gave it an amazing amount of rear grip. It is easy to drive and very predictable. It's actually too safe for my taste but take that with a grain of salt because all of this is just my opinion and you most likely arent done with the car.

At panorama there was plenty of the shaking, as we'll call it, to be seen. It never once upset the car though. there was never the plowing that comes from bottoming out or the chattering that comes from hopping because of a stiff suspension. There was a tiny bit of understeer that comes from having the front stiffer than the rear, but when it got bumpy it never altered the driving line.

At the gp/f, turn 6 can make your car look like it has hydraulics on it and you are hittin' switches. Also the up hill chicane (turns 8 & 9 i think) can upset a car that is too stiff. In turn 6 there was plenty of body motion but again the tires were always in contact with the pavement and there was no plowing or understeer. You can tell because there may be a lot of tire squeal and noise while turning, but if the car is too stiff it turns into chirping/chattering instead of a constant sound. In the uphill chicane I wasn't going fast enough to get the car to exhibit any type of weird behavior either.

After making changes to ride height, spring stiffness, and damping, I would really just chalk up the shaking to the suspension doing what it's supposed to do. Despite a lot of body movement, there were none of the typical signs of being too stiff. There's no sudden untersteer or loss of tire contact.

If youd like, I can build one and post the setup so you can get a different feel for how the car behaves with different styles of tuning. Maybe @DolHaus @Thorin Cain @Jump_Ace can do one too if they have the time and post it here. One of the things I did while learning was take a tune that I really liked and deconstructed it to see how the tuner got the car to that point. I learned a lot that way.

*edit* i had to add flat floors to get the same stats as you, im assuming you have that equiped as well ?
 
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Just finished tuning the Yellowbird, there's 2 hours I won't ever get back...except on the track :sly: But I'll try the tune later 👍


Jerome
 
I drove your car at autumn ring, mt. panorama, and nurburgring GP/F. I didn't experience much shaking/chattering at autumn ring except for just a split second so that's why i took it to two of the tracks that can really mess up the balance of a stiff car.

Before I get into the results I wanted to say that for a beginner tuner you seem to be on the right track. I'm going to assume that it's not a complete tune and is still a WIP. Your car I think would best be described as "safe", which isn't a bad thing at all. You take an oversteery and drifty car and gave it an amazing amount of rear grip. It is easy to drive and very predictable. It's actually too safe for my taste but take that with a grain of salt because all of this is just my opinion and you most likely arent done with the car.

At panorama there was plenty of the shaking, as we'll call it, to be seen. It never once upset the car though. there was never the plowing that comes from bottoming out or the chattering that comes from hopping because of a stiff suspension. There was a tiny bit of understeer that comes from having the front stiffer than the rear, but when it got bumpy it never altered the driving line.

At the gp/f, turn 6 can make your car look like it has hydraulics on it and you are hittin' switches. Also the up hill chicane (turns 8 & 9 i think) can upset a car that is too stiff. In turn 6 there was plenty of body motion but again the tires were always in contact with the pavement and there was no plowing or understeer. You can tell because there may be a lot of tire squeal and noise while turning, but if the car is too stiff it turns into chirping/chattering instead of a constant sound. In the uphill chicane I wasn't going fast enough to get the car to exhibit any type of weird behavior either.

After making changes to ride height, spring stiffness, and damping, I would really just chalk up the shaking to the suspension doing what it's supposed to do. Despite a lot of body movement, there were none of the typical signs of being too stiff. There's no sudden untersteer or loss of tire contact.

If youd like, I can build one and post the setup so you can get a different feel for how the car behaves with different styles of tuning. Maybe @DolHaus @Thorin Cain @Jump_Ace can do one too if they have the time and post it here. One of the things I did while learning was take a tune that I really liked and deconstructed it to see how the tuner got the car to that point. I learned a lot that way.

*edit* i had to add flat floors to get the same stats as you, im assuming you have that equiped as well ?

Whoa dude! Thank you so much for the time and effort you put into this!:bowdown:
I really appreciate all of your input and I'm going to take note of everything you said. Yes, i totally forgot to post the Aero options i added. Sorry first time i actually posted a tune on GTP. Im happy to hear that u found similar results with the shaking. Im assuming from what you said, unless its hindering performance, shaking is just the car being a car.
And yes the tune i posted is not a complete tune. I just wanted to post what i had at the time so someone could point out if something was waaay off. Im definitely taking my time trying to learn how to tune and with the help of people like you giving me great info i should slowly be on my way.
Im definitely going to try your tune. Thats really cool you did that because now i have a great tune to do comparisons with as i finish mine. Thats really going to help me.👍
So again, Thank you!:cheers:
 
brzAutumn Ring_1.jpg

Car: Subaru BRZ S '12
Track: Autumn Ring
Wheel / Joypad: PS3 controller
Power: 253 BHP @ 7500 Rpm / 24.9 kgfm @ 7000 Rpm
Weight: 1065 kg
Performance Points: 450 PP
Tires: SS
Weight Distribution: 51:49

Suspension:
Height-Adjustable, Fully-Customisable Suspension)


Ride Height: Front: 110 Rear: 95
Spring Rate: Front: 6.72 kg Rear: 8.76 kg
Dampers (Compression):Front: 5 Rear: 5
Dampers (Extension): Front: 5 Rear: 4
Anti-Roll Bars: Front: 5 Rear: 5
Camber Angle (-): Front: 0.0° Rear: 0.0°
Toe Angle: Front: 0.02° Rear: 0.02°
Brakes: Racing Upgrade F: 5 R: 5

Drivetrain:
(Fully Customisable Transmission)


Set final to 3.885
Set max to 112
Set in sequence (6-5-4-3-2-1)
Set final to 3.500 (sets top speed)

Speed: 112 mph

1:
4.401
2: 3.104
3: 2.374
4: 1.920
5: 1.604
6: 1.345

Final:
3.500

Differential Gear:
Fully Customisable Mechanical Limited-Slip Diff

Initial Torque:
F= 8
Acceleration Sensitivity: F= 50
Braking Sensitivity: F= 8
Clutch & Flywheel: Twin plate
Propeller Shaft: Carbon

Power


Oil Change:
Yes
Power Limiter: 100%
Engine Tuning: Standard
Computer: Sports
Exhaust: Sports
Exhaust Manifold: Isometric
Catalytic Converter: Sports
Intake Tuning: Standard
Turbo Kit: Stage: Standard
Nitrous Oxide (N2O): No

Body


Body Rigidity Improvement:
No
Downforce: F = 0 R = 8 (optional)
Weight Reduction: Stage 3
Bonnet: Carbon
Windows: Weight Reduction
Ballast: 35kg
Ballast position: 50
 
Might be those high spring rates. Swift springs for the BRZ come 3.0/4.5 half your settings. 3.5/4.5 for the FRS. That's low in game tho, I'd go with something closer to 4.60/5.90 to start.

RWD try softer springs up front and stiff rear doing the opposite to your ARB, set the ARB stiffer front to rear. I would lower the spring rates unless your on Racing Tires, those rates look too aggressive for Sport tires.
 
Hi guys. @SDsnakebutt. I tried your settings out too and I completely agree that the shaking was probably more down to the track as @ImToLegitToQuit said. And a good idea too for us to send some tunes over for comparison. I have done mine at Autumn Ring with the same parts added, I also came out of my comfort zone and used Sports tyres and switched SFR off for a fair comparison.:lol: Only aid on is ABS at 1.



Subaru BRZ '12
BRZ ROAD.jpg

Specifications:
Performance Points: 491 pp
Max. power: 283 BHP
Weight: 1030 kg
Weight Distribution: 53:47
Drivetrain: FR

Parts Fitted:
Fully customisable suspension
Racing brakes
Fully customisable transmission
Fully customisable LSD
Triple plate clutch
Carbon Propeller Shaft
Sports ECU
Pacing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Sports Catalytic Converter
Intake Tuning
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Bonnet
Window Weight Reduction
Tyres: Sports Soft
Oil Change
Rigidity Improvement
Wheels Size up 2"
Front Aero Kit A
Flat Floor
Stock Rear Aero

The tune:

Suspension settings:
Ride Height: 98/92
Spring Rate: 4.56/5.75
Dampers(Compression): 3/4
Dampers(Extension): 4/5
Anti-Roll Bars: 4/4
Camber:0.0/0.0
Toe Angle: -0.08/0.04
Brake Balance: 6/5

Drivetrain:
Initial Torque: 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 12
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Power:
Power Limiter: 100%

Body:
Aerodynamics: 0/5
Ballast Amount: N/A
Ballast Position: N/A

Transmission:
Set Final Gear@: 5.000
Set top Speed @: 112 MPH/290 Km/H
Set Individual ratios to:
1:3.120
2: 2.442
3: 1.957
4: 1.613
5: 1.372
6: 1.183
Set final gear to: 3.925


 
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@Thorin Cain

Looks like your Springs Are Set pretty close to my suggestion, I would think its a great place to start.

Not to forget dambers, pay attention to how much stroke you have after lowering the ride height and tune the comp/ext offset to the stroke different lenght of comp vs ext stroke.
 
Might be those high spring rates. Swift springs for the BRZ come 3.0/4.5 half your settings. 3.5/4.5 for the FRS. That's low in game tho, I'd go with something closer to 4.60/5.90 to start.

RWD try softer springs up front and stiff rear doing the opposite to your ARB, set the ARB stiffer front to rear. I would lower the spring rates unless your on Racing Tires, those rates look too aggressive for Sport tires.
@Bobby Steel thank you for the tip. I didn't notice before, but u are correct, those are pretty low settings to come stock. And based on the tunes i got from everyone on this thread it looks like your suggestion of starting with 4.60/5.90 would be spot on. Well done:tup: and thank you.


@DolHaus and @Thorin Cain - Thank you my friends, for taking the time you have given to make tunes that i can use as a comparison while finishing mine up. I actually bought an extra BRZ just so i can run your two tunes and @ImToLegitToQuit tune in the A) B) C) settings so i can easily jump around each of them. Once i finish putting all ur guys tunes into the BRZ i will let you guys know how they felt for me.

I also came out of my comfort zone and used Sports tyres and switched SFR off for a fair comparison.:lol:Only aid on is ABS at 1.- @Thorin Cain

Hahahaha i totally feel ya on this bro. I'm the same way!:lol:
 
I forgot to mention the dampers.

Step 1 set them to the level of your spring rates.

Step 2 balance the offset to your ride height.

From the ride height you have set to the highest setting is your extension stroke from your setting to the lowest setting is your compression stroke.

With one longer and one short (if ride height setting is not in the middle) the short stroke needs stronger dampening & the long stroke less for the 2 to be balanced.

Cars dropped low with a short comp stroke need stiff comp settings, while cars with more comp stroke vs extension need stiffer dampers on the extension stroke.

Think of it like initial setting divided by mm of stroke and have them level out. Should be around the same total dampening on both sides, but a different amount per mm of stroke.

A side with 10mm of stroke needs more dampening then If it had 40 or 50mm of stroke.

Then you can tune them for your driving style.
 
@Thorin Cain / @DolHaus / @ImToLegitToQuit
Well fellas i played around with all of your guys tunes. Raced a lil online, did some Spec-A 600pp series, and a lil more Test Driving. All 3 of the tunes suited me very well. I did not change a thing except online when there was a pplimit restriction. I would recommend these tunes to anyone looking for a solid BRZ tune. I'm hoping there will be a BRZ Seasonal in the future. Than i will be more than prepared haha. Thank you again for all the help. you guys rock! :)

I forgot to mention the dampers.

Step 1 set them to the level of your spring rates.

Step 2 balance the offset to your ride height.

From the ride height you have set to the highest setting is your extension stroke from your setting to the lowest setting is your compression stroke.

With one longer and one short (if ride height setting is not in the middle) the short stroke needs stronger dampening & the long stroke less for the 2 to be balanced.

Cars dropped low with a short comp stroke need stiff comp settings, while cars with more comp stroke vs extension need stiffer dampers on the extension stroke.

Think of it like initial setting divided by mm of stroke and have them level out. Should be around the same total dampening on both sides, but a different amount per mm of stroke.

A side with 10mm of stroke needs more dampening then If it had 40 or 50mm of stroke.

Then you can tune them for your driving style.

this makes a lot of sense. I'm definitely going to note this down. i like your style ! thanks!
 
Your problem is that your dampers (compression) are too stiff. The Nurb's elevation changes quickly from smooth to rough. You need to have your dampers set to absorbs the bumpy surface. Because its stiff, the dampers do not compress when the tire makes contact with a sharp decline in elevation (Bump). When you go around curve, the compression does not do it job in going down. The stiffness effects the tire ability in stay in contact with road. The car jumps and shakes as a result.
 
Your problem is that your dampers (compression) are too stiff. The Nurb's elevation changes quickly from smooth to rough. You need to have your dampers set to absorbs the bumpy surface. Because its stiff, the dampers do not compress when the tire makes contact with a sharp decline in elevation (Bump). When you go around curve, the compression does not do it job in going down. The stiffness effects the tire ability in stay in contact with road. The car jumps and shakes as a result.
The problem was the track, not the car, the dampers were fine at 3/3. Dropping below that point with relatively soft springs will just make body roll and lose speed in mid/fast corners. It was just a bit or normal juddering from hard cornering, nothing to worry about.
 
The problem was the track, not the car, the dampers were fine at 3/3. Dropping below that point with relatively soft springs will just make body roll and lose speed in mid/fast corners. It was just a bit or normal juddering from hard cornering, nothing to worry about.

Yep, if your springs are soft, then your dampers and anti rolls bar will need to be tighten vs tight springs, then your dampers and roll bars must be more loose...
 
Yep, if your springs are soft, then your dampers and anti rolls bar will need to be tighten vs tight springs, then your dampers and roll bars must be more loose...
not necessarily. if you start with a car that is stiff from the factory, you can run soft springs and soft dampers and still be ok.

There's no sure fire equation or formula to setup a car. That's why I tell people to drive a car bone stock and see how it behaves. If you like the way a car drives it is much more easy to make a "good" car better then try to eliminate a behavior that you don't want. two of my favorite examples of this are the F430 scuderia and spoon civic. both fit my driving style for their class and therefore were only made better with tuning.

that's all relative though and is important only for competition. Sometimes it is fun to take a "bad" car and try to fix it. I personally just like to tune for wins though. There's no better advertisement for your garage than always being in 1st. :sly:

Keep in mind these are all on sports tires. Race cars are for race cars, street tires are for street cars.
 
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Your problem is that your dampers (compression) are too stiff. The Nurb's elevation changes quickly from smooth to rough. You need to have your dampers set to absorbs the bumpy surface. Because its stiff, the dampers do not compress when the tire makes contact with a sharp decline in elevation (Bump). When you go around curve, the compression does not do it job in going down. The stiffness effects the tire ability in stay in contact with road. The car jumps and shakes as a result.

Thanks for the reply. I totally understand what you are saying and its good info. But like @DolHaus said, it came down to the track not the car.
Opening the thread, When i first asked the question, I was not taking into account the track. I thought that for sure something was wrong with the tuning of the car. Making it shake on turns and such. I did not consider that it was more just the elevation changes and bumps in the track that were making the BRZ behave that way. I guess we came to the conclusion that the way it was behaving was just a car being a car on that track.

But YES, if that wasn't the case I'm sure what you said above could have fixed the shaking as well. I guess there is a lot of variables for each situation so there is no sure 1 way will always be the best fix it. Im sure you know this tho. I know very little compared to most on this forum so i don't wanna go around telling people there wrong. Its just different cases call for different fixes. I will keep what you said in mind tho the next time my car jitters around. Thanks:tup:
 
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