Tyre selection for modified/upgraded cars, and racing softs

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I am trying to get a better handle of matching tyres to my upgraded/tuned cars. Till now I have just slapped on racing softs but have come to the realisation that it pretty much turns GT7 into NFS.

Here are some stock cars at various PP levels, and the tyres they come with:
Car Year PP Tyres
---------------------------------------- ------ -------- -------
R18 '16 2016 924.12 RM
FXX K '14 2014 812.30 RH
NSX GT500 '08 2008 804.29 RM
SC430 GT500 '08 2008 803.08 RM
Vulcan '16 2016 756.36 SS
LeFerrari '13 2013 738.46 SM
Atenza Gr.3 --- 727.01 RH
Veneno '14 2014 692.07 SM
Enzo Ferrari '02 2002 655.89 SH
GT-R NISMO '17 2017 619.07 SM
Ford GT '06 2006 597.47 SH
911 GT3 (996) '01 2001 551.66 SH
R32 GT-R V-Spec II '94 1994 502.15 SH
Sileighty '98 1998 449.80 CS
Silvia K's Dia Selection (S13) '90 1990 399.89 CM
Sprinter Trueno 1600GT APEX (AE86) '83 1983 356.77 CM
Beat '91 1991 305.21 CM
Mini-Cooper 'S' '65 1965 251.10 CH
Willys MB '45 1945 195.62 CH
500 F '68 1968 81.18 CH



I was surprised to see even the 756PP Vulcan coming with sports tyres. It changed my perspective on the levels of grip that give a realistic feel in GT7.

So my rule of thumb is as follows:
  • <250PP - CH
  • 251-400PP - CM
  • 401-500PP - CS
  • 501-600PP - SH
  • 601-700PP - SM
  • 701-800PP - SS
  • 801-900PP - RM
  • >900PP - RM
That brings me to the topic of RS tyres - what are they to be used for exactly?
Outside of the F1 cars and a handful of VGT/concept cars - they are not used at all.
How are we to use them for tuned road cars?

Of course it depends on the use case:
  • Single player time trials
  • Casual multiplayer (everyone is running RS, even on a stock Twingo!)
  • Custom races
  • Singe player races (PP limited or otherwise)
 
Remember though, those are stock road tyres in the list. For track day use most people would fit something more suited for the job so SS from at least 600PP upwards certainly wouldn't be out of place as it's still somewhat road legal, and the cars are already around the 400 bhp mark.

But the point about the RS, or racing tyres on a road car at all, is a good one. In reality it's a qualifying compound for a very small number of very high performance race cars and that's about it. Even hard slicks on modified road cars is something you don't see unless it's something really extreme or narrow scoped like unlimited class time attack or old school NASCAR, and perhaps not even then. In any case the cars running them are far from road legal at that point.
 
That’s a great point. I guess one could shift the PP/tyre combinations up by one. Meaning at 600PP you are turning up to track with perhaps what are road legal slicks.

I guess it’s down to how one approaches the game. I personally like to have 3 tunes:
  • street (SH/SM)
  • club sport (SS)
  • racing (RH/RM)

Street is basically bolt-ons, minimal aero, no livery.

Club sport involves slight internal engine work and bolt on forced induction for example. Minimal tuner livery.

The racing tune is all custom parts installed. The idea here is to create a Gr.4 version of the car. Full aero, big wing and full racing livery. Here I would go with Racing Hards, since all Gr.4 and 3 race cars come with those.
 
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My philosophy is simple.

Keep them stock 99% of the time. If I add enough power upgrades then I'll consider changing the tyres within the same category.

Occasionally, when I was doing my stock car testing in the single player events I would sometimes upgrade them by one (eg. CM => CS or occasionally CS => SH) in order to improve performance enough to win the event I'm trying to win, always when keeping within the recommended PP. If the car has an engine swap, I'll allow matching the the default tyres of the donor car. Not always!

The only time I mess with Racing tyres on road cars sometimes in the case of an aforementioned engine swap, or when making mixed up custom grids, due to the AI tyre bug. In both examples, I never use anything softer than RH.
 
Oh but customisation is a huge part of the game and a big draw for me. It's great fun to tune a car, and have a "home made" Gr.4 version of it. To each their own though. Quick race is pretty broken for me since it puts me against stock cars with equivalent PP so my tuned 80s civic is racing against Porche's and AMGs... oh and of course I can't forget about that at the end of the day it's "just inertia and rhythm"!
 
bys
That’s a great point. I guess one could shift the PP/tyre combinations up by one. Meaning at 600PP you are turning up to track with perhaps what are road legal slicks.

I guess it’s down to how one approaches the game. I personally like to have 3 tunes:
  • street (SH/SM)
  • club sport (SS)
  • racing (RH/RM)

Street is basically bolt-ons, minimal aero, no livery.

Club sport involves slight internal engine work and bolt on forced induction for example. Minimal tuner livery.

The racing tune is all custom parts installed. The idea here is to create a Gr.4 version of the car. Full aero, big wing and full racing livery. Here I would go with Racing Hards, since all Gr.4 and 3 race cars come with those.
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The idea of classifying and organising the fleet in this way is brilliant. One question on that: how do you handle supercars and hypercars, such as the Lamborghini Huracán, AMG Black Series and anything else that’s clearly too powerful for Group 4?
 
Well maybe I miss spoke, I just meant that the max tuned version is the race version: being either gr.4, 3 or 2. There can be cases like with the Ferrari … something or other (I’m not a devotee of Ferrari!) where the max tuned road car has more power and weighs less than the tuned gr.4!

In either case for max power/PP, 800PP+ I would go to RMs.

Still, for the insane engine swaps - Chiron, GAC, demon: I think RSs might be necessary but I still need to do some testing and refining of this whole concept.
 
bys
Well maybe I miss spoke, I just meant that the max tuned version is the race version: being either gr.4, 3 or 2. There can be cases like with the Ferrari … something or other (I’m not a devotee of Ferrari!) where the max tuned road car has more power and weighs less than the tuned gr.4!

In either case for max power/PP, 800PP+ I would go to RMs.

Still, for the insane engine swaps - Chiron, GAC, demon: I think RSs might be necessary but I still need to do some testing and refining of this whole concept.
Click to expand...
OK, I see. Thanks for the explanation.

And yes, cars with swappable engines are in a completely different league – take the Renault Twingo, for example :)
 

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