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- florida
- kttheman001
Gt6 basic drag tuning help.
This guide will help you with simple tuning methods to help your car reach its full potential. Mind you, I don't want to step on MasterShakes 1/4 tuning guide for dummies. If you haven't read it I certainly suggest you look over it in tandem with this to get a full idea of what you need to reach your full potential as a tuner.
This is a basic and very universal guide to your vehicles. I may go more in depth later, but for now this should suffice.
First off, let's cover the simple parts.
Suspension:
The suspension set up will be divided into 3 parts as per the 3 main categories of vehicle, divided via drive-train.
FF: slam the car all the way to the ground. You want your car as low as It can go. This helps stop weight transfer to the rear, thus keeping your weight on your drive wheels. FF cars tend to spin excessively, so this should help reduce SOME spin.
Second, spring rates in both front down back up. This makes the from end move up less, there for keeping more weight on the front tires. More weight means for a harder launch, which is CRUCIAL. I'll go more over this later.
Third, a common misconception, is that dampers and roll bars play a part. They don't. I've had people argue with me tooth and nail. Don't believe me? Grab a friend and make sure to get an even tree ( launch at the same time, any slight advantage off the tree can cause large scale differences down the track) and see who pulls away on the EXACT same tune, besides the dampers and anti-roll bars.
Fourth, no camber, no toe. This creates less tire contact with the pavement, creating more spin, resulting in a worse launch.
-------------------------------------------------------------
RWD: front and back all the way up. You need your weight to shift to the rear tires to catch more grip, thus reducing spin and resulting in a harder launch.
Second is the spring rates, front max and read minimum. This lets the front of the car lift more and the rear drop more, resulting on, you guessed it, more weight on the rear.
Third, once again, dampers and roll bars don't matter. Refer to the above FF section.
Fourth, again, no camber no toe. Adding camber and toe results in less of the tires surface area to contact the road. Less surface area = less traction = more wheel spin = worse launch.
-------------------------------------------------------------
AWD: once again, you're going to slam it to the ground. This time all four tires are grabbing and clawing for traction, so balancing the weight with the spring is crucial.
Second off are the springs, and here we want them to all me maxed out. This prevents the front from lifting, and thus keeps your weight balanced on all four tires, allowing them to all grab equally.
Third, again, please refer to the FF section.
Fourth, no camber, no toe. AWD car need as much of the tire in contact with the pavement to grip. The faster you stop spinning, the sooner you begin to pull.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Next matter at hand is probably the MOST important.
Transmissions, once again, divided by the drive-train.
FF: these transmissions will typically go like this.
Set final gear rather low.
Set top speed to minimum.
1: all the way left.
2: don't touch*
3: ~2/3-3/4 to the right.
4: Max
5: Max
6: Max
Final: all the way left
*this DOES depend on how much weight you're running. You may have to slightly increase or decrease.
Typically, it's either a 1-2 quick shift (low HP) or 1-2-3 quick shift (high HP)
-------------------------------------------------------------
RWD: these transmissions are EXTREMELY diverse. I'll have 3 transmissions up for this. The first one should work for most muscle cars. The second will be higher HP cars like vipers, vettes, etc. the third will be low HP cars.
Muscle cars: these cars can be a pain. Here is a typical way to run them
Depending on how crappy the power band is, the initial final gear will need to be higher for a lower shift point.
Set an appropriate final gear
Set your top speed to its minimum (yeah, low isn't it?)
1: all the way left
2: ~1/4 of the way for a 1-2 quick shift or all the way left for a 1-2-3
3: ~2/3-3/4 (get it as low as possible without bogging 2-3 or 3-4
4: Max
5: Max
Final: minimum
If you're not crossing the line at your shift point then your car is not running at its full potential.
High HP RWD: these cars spin like monsters and pull like them once the do grab traction.
Set an appropriate final gear
Top speed slider all the way left
1: all the way left
2: all the way left
3: as low as possible without bogging 2-3 or 3-4.
4: Max or ~50-75 clicks from Max.
5: Max
6: Max
Final: minimum
These cars will 2-3 quick shift, 3rd is crucial to grab grip ASAP. AGAIN, CROSS AT YOUR SHIFT POINT.
TAKE NOTE: some cars prefer to 1-2-3 or others prefer ONLY 2nd gear for launch, so experiment.
Low HP: these cars can be tricky, but don't worry.
Set your final gear lowish.
Top speed: all the way left.
1:all the way left
2: ~1/2 way
3: ~2/3-3/4 to the right
4: Max
5: Max
6: ~2/3-3/4
Final gear: minimum.
You should cross the line at your shift point. The reason 6th gear is reduced is to maximize launch and mid-gear (2-3-4-5) pull on your car. This will EASILY compensate for the loss in 6th. These cars can sometimes 1-2 quick shift but typically like a 1st gear launch.
-------------------------------------------------------------
AWD: these cars have a low and high HP tune as well.
Low HP: exactly like the RWD low HP cars.
Set your final gear lowish.
Top speed: all the way left.
1:all the way left
2: ~1/2 way
3: ~2/3-3/4 to the right
4: Max
5: Max
6: ~2/3-3/4
Final gear: minimum.
You should cross the line at your shift point. The reason 6th gear is reduced is to maximize launch and mid-gear (2-3-4-5) pull on your car. This will EASILY compensate for the loss in 6th. These cars can sometimes 1-2 quick shift but typically like a 1st gear launch.
High HP: this only a slight tweak from the low HP.
Set your final gear lowish.
Top speed: all the way left.
1:all the way left
2: ~1/4-1/3 for a 1-2 quick shift or ~1/2 if not.
3: ~2/3-3/4 to the right
4: Max
5: Max
6: Max
Final gear: minimum.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Right, now that your car is done, let's start addressing common issues, misconceptions etc:
First off, the torque sensing differential does nothing. The increased acceleration and torque changes NOTHING for you driving in a straight line.
Right. Now, many people seem to for some reason, confuse a "tree" with a "harder launch"
A "tree" is when someone leaves the line first. They saw the ghost first, or reacted faster, thus, coming off the line before their opponent. This does NOT mean their car is faster than their opponent on the launch. If both cars leave even, exactly even, the car that pulls is faster. If you tree someone, you should pull. If you don't pull in any gears, your tune is slower.
Another thing, many cars such as the supra run faster on a mid turbo. This is due to increased torque off the line.
Shift points are another tough one for people. Your shift point is NOT the rpm you make Max power at. It's AFTER. A horsepower graph curves. If you're shifting exactly at peak power, say, 550 hp at 7500 rpms. When you shift, the car drips 800 rpms, to 6700 @430HP. your average is between these numbers. Now if you shift at 7900 rpms and make 480 hp and drop 800 rpm again, you're now at 7100 rpms @490 hp. You're going to average much higher with the second method.
If you have a wing or flat floors on, take it off. That is all.
Getting pulled? ENGINE OVERHAUL AND OIL CHANGE. it will be atleast a 2-3 car difference.
If your car has a low shift point, it's probably a quick shift so long as it's RWD.
Nearly all Hondas like to be shifted into the redline.
Want a better tree? Set your e-brake as either an analog stick or trigger and lean off of it until the light turns off. I have heard this MISTAKENLY referred to as e-cheating. IT IS NOT. THAT IS A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT MATTER.
Enjoy ladies and gents -KT
THIS GUIDE WILL BE UPDATED SOON. I TYPED IT ALL ON AN IPAD BUT I WANTED THE PRODUCT UP FOR NOW.
PLEASE AGAIN TAKE NOTE, THIS IS A UNIVERSAL GUIDE NOT FOR SPECIFIC TUNES. ITS NOT FINISHED. if any of this is critically wrong please feel free to correct me.
This guide will help you with simple tuning methods to help your car reach its full potential. Mind you, I don't want to step on MasterShakes 1/4 tuning guide for dummies. If you haven't read it I certainly suggest you look over it in tandem with this to get a full idea of what you need to reach your full potential as a tuner.
This is a basic and very universal guide to your vehicles. I may go more in depth later, but for now this should suffice.
First off, let's cover the simple parts.
Suspension:
The suspension set up will be divided into 3 parts as per the 3 main categories of vehicle, divided via drive-train.
FF: slam the car all the way to the ground. You want your car as low as It can go. This helps stop weight transfer to the rear, thus keeping your weight on your drive wheels. FF cars tend to spin excessively, so this should help reduce SOME spin.
Second, spring rates in both front down back up. This makes the from end move up less, there for keeping more weight on the front tires. More weight means for a harder launch, which is CRUCIAL. I'll go more over this later.
Third, a common misconception, is that dampers and roll bars play a part. They don't. I've had people argue with me tooth and nail. Don't believe me? Grab a friend and make sure to get an even tree ( launch at the same time, any slight advantage off the tree can cause large scale differences down the track) and see who pulls away on the EXACT same tune, besides the dampers and anti-roll bars.
Fourth, no camber, no toe. This creates less tire contact with the pavement, creating more spin, resulting in a worse launch.
-------------------------------------------------------------
RWD: front and back all the way up. You need your weight to shift to the rear tires to catch more grip, thus reducing spin and resulting in a harder launch.
Second is the spring rates, front max and read minimum. This lets the front of the car lift more and the rear drop more, resulting on, you guessed it, more weight on the rear.
Third, once again, dampers and roll bars don't matter. Refer to the above FF section.
Fourth, again, no camber no toe. Adding camber and toe results in less of the tires surface area to contact the road. Less surface area = less traction = more wheel spin = worse launch.
-------------------------------------------------------------
AWD: once again, you're going to slam it to the ground. This time all four tires are grabbing and clawing for traction, so balancing the weight with the spring is crucial.
Second off are the springs, and here we want them to all me maxed out. This prevents the front from lifting, and thus keeps your weight balanced on all four tires, allowing them to all grab equally.
Third, again, please refer to the FF section.
Fourth, no camber, no toe. AWD car need as much of the tire in contact with the pavement to grip. The faster you stop spinning, the sooner you begin to pull.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Next matter at hand is probably the MOST important.
Transmissions, once again, divided by the drive-train.
FF: these transmissions will typically go like this.
Set final gear rather low.
Set top speed to minimum.
1: all the way left.
2: don't touch*
3: ~2/3-3/4 to the right.
4: Max
5: Max
6: Max
Final: all the way left
*this DOES depend on how much weight you're running. You may have to slightly increase or decrease.
Typically, it's either a 1-2 quick shift (low HP) or 1-2-3 quick shift (high HP)
-------------------------------------------------------------
RWD: these transmissions are EXTREMELY diverse. I'll have 3 transmissions up for this. The first one should work for most muscle cars. The second will be higher HP cars like vipers, vettes, etc. the third will be low HP cars.
Muscle cars: these cars can be a pain. Here is a typical way to run them
Depending on how crappy the power band is, the initial final gear will need to be higher for a lower shift point.
Set an appropriate final gear
Set your top speed to its minimum (yeah, low isn't it?)
1: all the way left
2: ~1/4 of the way for a 1-2 quick shift or all the way left for a 1-2-3
3: ~2/3-3/4 (get it as low as possible without bogging 2-3 or 3-4
4: Max
5: Max
Final: minimum
If you're not crossing the line at your shift point then your car is not running at its full potential.
High HP RWD: these cars spin like monsters and pull like them once the do grab traction.
Set an appropriate final gear
Top speed slider all the way left
1: all the way left
2: all the way left
3: as low as possible without bogging 2-3 or 3-4.
4: Max or ~50-75 clicks from Max.
5: Max
6: Max
Final: minimum
These cars will 2-3 quick shift, 3rd is crucial to grab grip ASAP. AGAIN, CROSS AT YOUR SHIFT POINT.
TAKE NOTE: some cars prefer to 1-2-3 or others prefer ONLY 2nd gear for launch, so experiment.
Low HP: these cars can be tricky, but don't worry.
Set your final gear lowish.
Top speed: all the way left.
1:all the way left
2: ~1/2 way
3: ~2/3-3/4 to the right
4: Max
5: Max
6: ~2/3-3/4
Final gear: minimum.
You should cross the line at your shift point. The reason 6th gear is reduced is to maximize launch and mid-gear (2-3-4-5) pull on your car. This will EASILY compensate for the loss in 6th. These cars can sometimes 1-2 quick shift but typically like a 1st gear launch.
-------------------------------------------------------------
AWD: these cars have a low and high HP tune as well.
Low HP: exactly like the RWD low HP cars.
Set your final gear lowish.
Top speed: all the way left.
1:all the way left
2: ~1/2 way
3: ~2/3-3/4 to the right
4: Max
5: Max
6: ~2/3-3/4
Final gear: minimum.
You should cross the line at your shift point. The reason 6th gear is reduced is to maximize launch and mid-gear (2-3-4-5) pull on your car. This will EASILY compensate for the loss in 6th. These cars can sometimes 1-2 quick shift but typically like a 1st gear launch.
High HP: this only a slight tweak from the low HP.
Set your final gear lowish.
Top speed: all the way left.
1:all the way left
2: ~1/4-1/3 for a 1-2 quick shift or ~1/2 if not.
3: ~2/3-3/4 to the right
4: Max
5: Max
6: Max
Final gear: minimum.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Right, now that your car is done, let's start addressing common issues, misconceptions etc:
First off, the torque sensing differential does nothing. The increased acceleration and torque changes NOTHING for you driving in a straight line.
Right. Now, many people seem to for some reason, confuse a "tree" with a "harder launch"
A "tree" is when someone leaves the line first. They saw the ghost first, or reacted faster, thus, coming off the line before their opponent. This does NOT mean their car is faster than their opponent on the launch. If both cars leave even, exactly even, the car that pulls is faster. If you tree someone, you should pull. If you don't pull in any gears, your tune is slower.
Another thing, many cars such as the supra run faster on a mid turbo. This is due to increased torque off the line.
Shift points are another tough one for people. Your shift point is NOT the rpm you make Max power at. It's AFTER. A horsepower graph curves. If you're shifting exactly at peak power, say, 550 hp at 7500 rpms. When you shift, the car drips 800 rpms, to 6700 @430HP. your average is between these numbers. Now if you shift at 7900 rpms and make 480 hp and drop 800 rpm again, you're now at 7100 rpms @490 hp. You're going to average much higher with the second method.
If you have a wing or flat floors on, take it off. That is all.
Getting pulled? ENGINE OVERHAUL AND OIL CHANGE. it will be atleast a 2-3 car difference.
If your car has a low shift point, it's probably a quick shift so long as it's RWD.
Nearly all Hondas like to be shifted into the redline.
Want a better tree? Set your e-brake as either an analog stick or trigger and lean off of it until the light turns off. I have heard this MISTAKENLY referred to as e-cheating. IT IS NOT. THAT IS A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT MATTER.
Enjoy ladies and gents -KT
THIS GUIDE WILL BE UPDATED SOON. I TYPED IT ALL ON AN IPAD BUT I WANTED THE PRODUCT UP FOR NOW.
PLEASE AGAIN TAKE NOTE, THIS IS A UNIVERSAL GUIDE NOT FOR SPECIFIC TUNES. ITS NOT FINISHED. if any of this is critically wrong please feel free to correct me.
Last edited:
