Wet tuning

[Frizbe]

So I am trying the rainmasters race right now and having a bit of a problem with grip in the race. Is there a general tune I should be using? Something like softer rear and max down force? The other thought I had was not doing and weight reduction to keep the car pressed to the track. I am preparing to do some testing on my own but thought I would check if there were some pointers I could get since I didn't see any in the tuning forum yet and couldn't find any even in the GT5 section.

 

[Bo]

Keep an eye on my setup thread - i'll be getting a wet setup for a few cars in the next week or so. Increase the downforce and soften everything for the wet. In the dry, the grip that tyres have forces the suspension to compress and move very aggressively, but a layer of rain on the track will of course mean the tyres have nowhere near this grip. This means you need to make compression, extension and movement easier in order to achieve a similar range of movement. Careful throttle control is a key factor however .

 

[jeffreyw1]

Does anyone know where I can find some tuning for wet tune cars for racing on the International A class Rainmasters races?

 

[DolHaus]

If you are just looking to pass the event, use which ever car you have been using before for similar PP races and just put TC 1 and SRF, be gentle on the throttle exiting corners and try not to make any sudden movements that might upset the car. That's about it really, full wets for the first race and intermediates for the rest

 

[jeffreyw1]

Thanks for the great advice DolHaus. I'll have to give it a try.

 

[demonchilde]

One thing I noticed personally, I used hard tires and it worked better for rain, then rain tires.
why?
No idea, doesnt make sense. But I wont use them anymore.

 

[DolHaus]

One thing I noticed personally, I used hard tires and it worked better for rain, then rain tires.
why?
No idea, doesn't make sense. But I wont use them anymore.

In real life full wet tires only work in torrential rain, otherwise they overheat and become useless and fall apart. Same story with intermediates, unless there is substantial standing water you might as well just run slick tires. The idea of treaded tires is to disperse the water that would otherwise form a slippery barrier between rubber and road, the downside is a reduced footprint (due to the gaps in the tread) and reduced grip as a result. If the track is only damp and there is no standing water, you are better off with a full slick tire footprint because it offer marginally higher grip levels and a more predictable tire degradation

I don't know if this is reflected in the game physics accurately, but I thought I'd just explain the theories to help people understand better

 

[demonchilde]

I know all the super license races, ALL, of them, you need to use racing hard wether it be rain or not, or your just going to add another pit stop, and likely not win.
Those were the races I was referring to btw.
The super ones with the intermittent rain.
The medium and rain tires made me slip a lot and burned out fast. I threw on racing hards, had better grip, and went through all of those races with ease.

 

[RollingThunder]

I just read somewhere else that you can use racing softs on that race and they provide great grip. I used the wet tires and had issues. I golded all the races but it was twitchy race...easy to lose the rear of the cars.

 

[Jbaffoh]

I know all the super license races, ALL, of them, you need to use racing hard wether it be rain or not, or your just going to add another pit stop, and likely not win.
Those were the races I was referring to btw.
The super ones with the intermittent rain.
The medium and rain tires made me slip a lot and burned out fast. I threw on racing hards, had better grip, and went through all of those races with ease.

True, unless you use the Red Bull Jr. with racing softs. It's ridiculous. No tire wear as long as there's any moisture on the track, and you can attack most corners at full speed. It uses no fuel, either! You can do every Super race (except for those requiring normal cars) without needing to pit--ever. For the 650 races, use the power limiter. You'll win everything except Nordschliefe by at least one lap.

Yes, it's boring. I wonder if they fixed it in 1.04.

 

[DolHaus]

I think the original request was to do with the Rain Masters races, but yes you are generally fine using racing hard tyres. I've not tried the Red Bull Jr. because those kind of cars are too fast for me, I just can't keep up with how fast they do everything! The performance is incredible but they're not particularly fun in my opinion

 

[jeffreyw1]

If you are just looking to pass the event, use which ever car you have been using before for similar PP races and just put TC 1 and SRF, be gentle on the throttle exiting corners and try not to make any sudden movements that might upset the car. That's about it really, full wets for the first race and intermediates for the rest

I tried to race my '09 Chevy ZR1 Corvette with this setup, but I'm still having trouble placing 1st. Would anyone have a good tune for the Rainmasters A class 2nd and 3rd races (Nurburgring)? I'm not good at tuning or I would try myself.

 

[demonchilde]

I used the Jaguar XKR-S '11 for that, and the other 650 "normal car" req's.

And I used Clueless's tune for it.
(https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...p-updated-28-01-14.291743/page-7#post-9128134)

Maxed out to 642pp
817hp
With 93 ballast @ +50

Worked perfect for me anyway.

 

[DolHaus]

I tried to race my '09 Chevy ZR1 Corvette with this setup, but I'm still having trouble placing 1st. Would anyone have a good tune for the Rainmasters A class 2nd and 3rd races (Nurburgring)? I'm not good at tuning or I would try myself.

hmmm.... I used the ZR1 and had no real trouble with it, I think the only modifications I made was oil change, weight reduction 3, rear wing (20), stage 2 engine tuning, sports computer, intake tuning and six speed transmission. I don't remember any of them being that difficult apart from nurburgring, that was mostly because I'm not good there. Maybe you just need practice in the wet at these circuits, some time in free run mode might do you some good?

 

[jeffreyw1]

hmmm.... I used the ZR1 and had no real trouble with it, I think the only modifications I made was oil change, weight reduction 3, rear wing (20), stage 2 engine tuning, sports computer, intake tuning and six speed transmission. I don't remember any of them being that difficult apart from nurburgring, that was mostly because I'm not good there. Maybe you just need practice in the wet at these circuits, some time in free run mode might do you some good?

You're probably right about the practice part. I was using a tune I found in this forum. I race using a DS3 controller. Do you happen to know how many performance points your ZR1 is after you made the adjustments? Thanks for your help.[/quote]

 

[DolHaus]

You're probably right about the practice part. I was using a tune I found in this forum. I race using a DS3 controller. Do you happen to know how many performance points your ZR1 is after you made the adjustments? Thanks for your help.

[/quote]
643 PP
769 Bhp
I'm also on DS3, try the Racing Soft suspension if you are still struggling, might help. The key with all of them is to nurse it round the bends and get the power down in a straight line. Never accelerate unless your wheels are all but straight because the car will just get twitchy and wheel spin all the power away. Stay away from the grass and make sure you leave plenty of room for braking. Do one thing at a time, let the car settle when braking, accelerating and turning, it will get all nervous otherwise and spin you or slow you down

 

[jeffreyw1]

643 PP
769 Bhp
I'm also on DS3, try the Racing Soft suspension if you are still struggling, might help. The key with all of them is to nurse it round the bends and get the power down in a straight line. Never accelerate unless your wheels are all but straight because the car will just get twitchy and wheel spin all the power away. Stay away from the grass and make sure you leave plenty of room for braking. Do one thing at a time, let the car settle when braking, accelerating and turning, it will get all nervous otherwise and spin you or slow you down[/quote]

Thanks for those great tips DolHaus. I think that they will help me greatly. Did you happen to adjust the transmission gearing any? What is the top speed needed for the straightaways on de la Sarthe for the ZR1?

 

[DolHaus]

643 PP
769 Bhp
I'm also on DS3, try the Racing Soft suspension if you are still struggling, might help. The key with all of them is to nurse it round the bends and get the power down in a straight line. Never accelerate unless your wheels are all but straight because the car will just get twitchy and wheel spin all the power away. Stay away from the grass and make sure you leave plenty of room for braking. Do one thing at a time, let the car settle when braking, accelerating and turning, it will get all nervous otherwise and spin you or slow you down

Thanks for those great tips DolHaus. I think that they will help me greatly. Did you happen to adjust the transmission gearing any? What is the top speed needed for the straightaways on de la Sarthe for the ZR1?[/quote]
I just fitted the 6 speed transmission because it was cheaper but that did leave me a bit slow at Circuit de la Sarthe. When it comes to straightline performance testing is the key, do a free run and get a good run on to the straight, if you find you are hitting the rev limiter before the end then add a few mph and try again. You want to be just about maxing the car before you hit the brakes. Remember that slipstreaming will make you top out sooner so you should add a few mph to compensate. It might be an idea to remove any cosmetic parts such as wings/bodykits/flat floors because they add drag at high speeds and lower your potential top speed.
General tip for de la sarthe, the braking points shown by the line indicator at the end of the straights are really far back, you can brake so much later than it shows even in the wet.

 

[jeffreyw1]

I just fitted the 6 speed transmission because it was cheaper but that did leave me a bit slow at Circuit de la Sarthe. When it comes to straightline performance testing is the key, do a free run and get a good run on to the straight, if you find you are hitting the rev limiter before the end then add a few mph and try again. You want to be just about maxing the car before you hit the brakes. Remember that slipstreaming will make you top out sooner so you should add a few mph to compensate. It might be an idea to remove any cosmetic parts such as wings/bodykits/flat floors because they add drag at high speeds and lower your potential top speed.
General tip for de la sarthe, the braking points shown by the line indicator at the end of the straights are really far back, you can brake so much later than it shows even in the wet.

Thanks for your input. I'll have to give that a try. You have helped me to understand things that I didn't know about Gran Turismo.

 

[DolHaus]

Thanks for your input. I'll have to give that a try. You have helped me to understand things that I didn't know about Gran Turismo.

No worries, glad to help. Hope it works for you

 

[jeffreyw1]

No worries, glad to help. Hope it works for you

I adjusted my settings and was able to finish in 8th place. Before I couldn't finish any better than 13th. I've got to have more practice I guess. Did you use stock exhaust on the ZR1? And, you said above to not use a rear wing, but how can you drive the car without adequate downforce (I haven't tried racing without the rear wing is why I ask)? Thanks.

 

[DolHaus]

I adjusted my settings and was able to finish in 8th place. Before I couldn't finish any better than 13th. I've got to have more practice I guess. Did you use stock exhaust on the ZR1? And, you said above to not use a rear wing, but how can you drive the car without adequate downforce (I haven't tried racing without the rear wing is why I ask)? Thanks.

Well that's an improvement at least, I think that you just need to learn the track better. Go to free run mode, choose the track and just keep driving round it until you know your way around. Start in the dry, drive until you are comfortable and consistent, then do the same in the wet.
The general idea with a top speed car is that you are slow in the corners but devastating in a straight line. Because Le Mans has 2 really long straights and no high speed corners, you can overcome any time you may have lost in the corners by being 20mph+ faster than the other cars on the straights. The idea is to pull out a sufficient enough lead that they don't catch up during the cornering sections.
I can't remember what parts I was using, but simply put a top speed car is better with more power, as much as you can get with the pp limit.
Another thing that may help you in the corners is sorting out the weight distribution of the car. I think the corvette is nose heavy if memory serves, to remedy this you need to put the ballast position as far back as possible and then add weight until the balance is as close to 50:50 as possible. (weight reduction is important, you don't want to end up with a heavier car than you started with originally once ballast is added)