What are the usual set up for drifting?

GT-D34DLY310

GT-D34DLY310

319
deadly310
Hey guys I've been drifting in this game for about 5 months now. I can drift the cars properly but, i dont know how iam suppose to tune them:yuck:. What should i do to the cars springs? What should i do with the lsd in a drift car? I can tune cars for racing but, i can't quite get the hang of tunning drift cars. Can any one help me with understanding how to tune cars for drifting.


Thanks,
GT-D34DLY310
 
Last edited:
GT-D34DLY310
Hey guys I've been drifting in this game for about 5 months now. I can drift the cars properly but, i dont know how iam suppose to tune them:yuck:. What should i do to the cars springs? What should i do with the lsd in a drift car? I can tune cars for racing but, i can't quite get the hang of tunning drift cars. Can any one help me with understanding how to tune cars for drifting.


Thanks,
GT-D34DLY310
Click to expand...

Quick, before you are advised to do a search...:sly: rule of thumb for me is simple, subtlety is the key..every tune is gradual and dynamic, and may ultimately end up changing according to the course you're on. I always lower my cars using full custom suspension to about 2-5 notches above the bottom. the springs i try to keep as close to original ratio as possible when tuning to keep the cars feeling distinctive(i don't want my aristo to drift like my fc rx7). i keep the springs softer for courses w/ a lot of elevation changes so they can be absorbed, and flat courses get stiff springs; i adjust the shocks on a daily basis. it appears that 90% of what is considered a "drift car" by the mainstream comes standard w/ an lsd in the game so i very rarely mess w/ it(unless i'm building a 10/90 split awd drifter). camber for front is anywhere from 1-3.5 depending on car course and goal(speed drift, tandem) camber for rear i never adjust past 1.5 except for nissan z cars. toe in the rear from .15 to .02...etc... brake balance should be higher in the front, abs 0-2
you can take my or anyone else's advice for years...you won't learn anything until you start experimenting and feeling how your adjustments effect the car, and correspond to your driving style. Oh and btw all of the above is a moot pt if you're using a controller...i use a dfgt so there are definite changes i can feel w/ the adjustments i make, i really don't know what "feel" a DS3 user gets from their usage...
 
I'll go in sections


Aero- generally run it too the feel of the car the more downforce on the rear of the car the more understeer will occur but thats not a bad thing in most drift cars.

LSD- Generally i run 5/60/60 5 for the inital, 60/60 for the acceleration and deceleration. This setup makes is the closest you can get from a 2 way diff that most drifters use in real life.

Suspension

Ride Height- Lower it at much as possible, The lower it is the less center of gravity and reduces roll in the corners. Generally keep the rear of the car a couple millimeters (1-3mm) higher then the front.

Spring Stiffness- Generally the stiffer the front springs the more understeer in the mid-section of the corner, which is a good thing Spring stiffness should go by your cars overall weight, A bmw m3 coupe weighs about 1370kg so you should use stiffer springs like 9.5 in front and 8.7 in rear. But cars like the sprinter trueno that weights about 800kg Generally use 8kg in front and 6.5kg in back.

Dampers (bound and rebound)- The higher the settings (numerical terms) the stiffer the suspension. I generally keep it around 5 on both bound and rebound. But Generally go drive in grass and see how your car reacts to the bumps. If it runs nice and flat then thats the ideal setting for you. Keep in mind Spring stiffness does also play a role in there.

Anti-roll bars- Generally set anti-roll bars low. A rule of thumb is never set your Anti-roll bars higher then 4. More ARB's (anti-roll bars) in the front the more understeer. The stiffer (higher) the ARB's in the rear of the car the more oversteer. Tune it to support your suspension setup.

Camber- The rule of thumb for camber is never go higher then 3.5 . Generally Run more camber in the front of the car will give your car angle. Putting Camber on the rear of the car is mainly done to enforce understeer. The camber in the rear of the car should never be higher then 2.5.

Toe Angle I generally run 0 on front and 0 in back. Putting negative toe in the front of the car will improve steering response and will give you more angle, But it will make you drift slower ( can be a problem if tandeming) putting Negative in the rear of the car is sometimes used to make it easier to get the tail out when drifting.

Brakes- Stiffer brakes in the rear is what I commonly use. I use setups like 6-9 or 4-8 I use stiffer brakes in the rear so I can brake drift.


But the Most important thing is Trial and Error. Don't give up on a car that you think is untunable or is bad at drifting. Cars like the rx7 spirit R might be a hassle to tune but if you get it right you get rewarded.
 
zedfonsie
I'll go in sections

Aero- generally run it too the feel of the car the more downforce on the rear of the car the more understeer will occur but thats not a bad thing in most drift cars.

LSD- Generally i run 5/60/60 5 for the inital, 60/60 for the acceleration and deceleration. This setup makes is the closest you can get from a 2 way diff that most drifters use in real life.

Suspension

Ride Height- Lower it at much as possible, The lower it is the less center of gravity and reduces roll in the corners. Generally keep the rear of the car a couple millimeters (1-3mm) higher then the front.

Spring Stiffness- Generally the stiffer the front springs the more understeer in the mid-section of the corner, which is a good thing Spring stiffness should go by your cars overall weight, A bmw m3 coupe weighs about 1370kg so you should use stiffer springs like 9.5 in front and 8.7 in rear. But cars like the sprinter trueno that weights about 800kg Generally use 8kg in front and 6.5kg in back.

Dampers (bound and rebound)- The higher the settings (numerical terms) the stiffer the suspension. I generally keep it around 5 on both bound and rebound. But Generally go drive in grass and see how your car reacts to the bumps. If it runs nice and flat then thats the ideal setting for you. Keep in mind Spring stiffness does also play a role in there.

Anti-roll bars- Generally set anti-roll bars low. A rule of thumb is never set your Anti-roll bars higher then 4. More ARB's (anti-roll bars) in the front the more understeer. The stiffer (higher) the ARB's in the rear of the car the more oversteer. Tune it to support your suspension setup.

Camber- The rule of thumb for camber is never go higher then 3.5 . Generally Run more camber in the front of the car will give your car angle. Putting Camber on the rear of the car is mainly done to enforce understeer. The camber in the rear of the car should never be higher then 2.5.

Toe Angle I generally run 0 on front and 0 in back. Putting negative toe in the front of the car will improve steering response and will give you more angle, But it will make you drift slower ( can be a problem if tandeming) putting Negative in the rear of the car is sometimes used to make it easier to get the tail out when drifting.

Brakes- Stiffer brakes in the rear is what I commonly use. I use setups like 6-9 or 4-8 I use stiffer brakes in the rear so I can brake drift.

But the Most important thing is Trial and Error. Don't give up on a car that you think is untunable or is bad at drifting. Cars like the rx7 spirit R might be a hassle to tune but if you get it right you get rewarded.
Click to expand...

Above post = truth.
 
a higher spring rate is more likely to give you that "snap back" that i'm sure you've experienced before, it's much more twitchy, i generally go anywhere from 6.5-8.0
 
SFX_Adavicro
Trial and error.
Click to expand...

Truer words were never spoken. While the mechanical actions inherent to drifting are quite objective and to the point, the best way to drift is subjective, and needs to be figured out on your own...i or anyone else here could provide you car settings all day, but none would be the "usual" as they correspond to different drifters, as well as different cars....For instance the settings i referred to earlier are applicable to my fc, but what if you prefer 86s or RUFs? do you drift w/ 500+ hp or barely 300? are you a flat skippad formula d type of guy, or do you get all takumi-ish w/ touge courses? hehehe...you request answers an all i have for you is questions...:sly:
 
Megamarcx84
Truer words were never spoken. While the mechanical actions inherent to drifting are quite objective and to the point, the best way to drift is subjective, and needs to be figured out on your own...i or anyone else here could provide you car settings all day, but none would be the "usual" as they correspond to different drifters, as well as different cars....For instance the settings i referred to earlier are applicable to my fc, but what if you prefer 86s or RUFs? do you drift w/ 500+ hp or barely 300? are you a flat skippad formula d type of guy, or do you get all takumi-ish w/ touge courses? hehehe...you request answers an all i have for you is questions...:sly:
Click to expand...

Good response sir. :) I completely agree with you. Well i drift cars around 500+ if that helps. I can drift cars but the thing is i dont know how to tune them. Well thanks for the help, i truly appreciate it very much. Thanks again.
 
Well then trial and error is your way to go!
Set your car suspension according to its weight and LSD according to the power it haves.
 
Man +Invisible Rep to all those who have posted in this thread, I feel the same as the OP. I drift, and play with settings, but I have no idea what I'm doing lol
 
Unless you grew up around tuning shops or obsess over spec sheets, realistically nobody expects anybody to "know what they're doing". It all comes down to situational awarness, utilizing your powers of observation to notice how changes you make affect the handling capabilities of your car...this, I feel is what seperates the "men"(drifters) from the "boys"(guys who like to drift)..in no way am I implying some sort of caste sytem at work, after all GT5 is just a game; but there's a difference between the guy who picks up a rwd chassis, simply lowers it and adds more hp for a fun time, and the guy who spends a couple of hrs on fuji d1, subtlely adjusting the camber and toe until he is able to consistently drift the line, only to change it again when he heads to suzuki or tsukuba...you gotta make a decision as to which guy you want to be..
 
To add on some info for the LSD, another way besides a 2 way differential is a locked diff (All values at 60) I peferably run this more on cars with lower horsepower.
 
So many valuable info here, but i want to share 2 cents of mine, specificaly about the dampers. In my experience, i feel so many influence about dampers on three situations.

- Trepidation. Extremely stiffer springs + loose dampers (3-5) can make the car´s view shake like crazy (better felt while using the cockpit camera).
- Banks, zebras, off roads... higher values can help to create a better control on these situations, but its also a vilain because in extreme overstering situations.
- Higher numbers on dampers, working besides the cambers, will make your car regain grip at weight transfers and results in a faster drift, but also sometimes this regain of grip can mess with a link or even ruin a clean line.

In my opinion, the dampers must be set based on the springs values (witch will be set based on the weight, torque and axes distances).

Oh, before i forgot, i would like to speak one thing about cambers also. Sometimes i see some cars with obscene negative angles on their cambers, and i ask myself if they know that after a certain angle, it starts to work against the adherence and making the car much worst to control after mid speed (100 mph for exemple).
 
daltonlm
So many valuable info here, but i want to share 2 cents of mine, specificaly about the dampers. In my experience, i feel so many influence about dampers on three situations.

- Trepidation. Extremely stiffer springs + loose dampers (3-5) can make the car´s view shake like crazy (better felt while using the cockpit camera).
- Banks, zebras, off roads... higher values can help to create a better control on these situations, but its also a vilain because in extreme overstering situations.
- Higher numbers on dampers, working besides the cambers, will make your car regain grip at weight transfers and results in a faster drift, but also sometimes this regain of grip can mess with a link or even ruin a clean line.

In my opinion, the dampers must be set based on the springs values (witch will be set based on the weight, torque and axes distances).

Oh, before i forgot, i would like to speak one thing about cambers also. Sometimes i see some cars with obscene negative angles on their cambers, and i ask myself if they know that after a certain angle, it starts to work against the adherence and making the car much worst to control after mid speed (100 mph for exemple).
Click to expand...

Not to mention that it looks stupid.
Before I was using really stiff springs (like 13kg front 11kg rear) and handling was crap. I could drift because of my experience in Lfs and other games but it was not enjoyable and I had to way too much steering corrections (I use a wheel).
As soon as I lowered the spring stiffness handling became far better.
As for the LSD I set it to 60 all around on hi powered cars (or 60 50 55 if the diff locks too much) and 5 60 60 on low powered cars thus making the diff lock instantly.
 
Warren4649
Not to mention that it looks stupid.
Before I was using really stiff springs (like 13kg front 11kg rear) and handling was crap. I could drift because of my experience in Lfs and other games but it was not enjoyable and I had to way too much steering corrections (I use a wheel).
As soon as I lowered the spring stiffness handling became far better.
As for the LSD I set it to 60 all around on hi powered cars (or 60 50 55 if the diff locks too much) and 5 60 60 on low powered cars thus making the diff lock instantly.
Click to expand...

You have it wrong. 60/60/60 is a locked diff. 5/60/60 is a 2-way diff
 
I always thought the higher the initial torque is the higher throttle pressure you'd have to apply to make the diff lock.
Anyway it works good when I set cars that way!
 
I generally never go higher then 10 but on cars like my m3 i run 10kg in front and 8.2kg in the rear. The dampers In the front are less stiffer compared to the back because the stiffer the dampers the stiffer the suspension is being held. So trying to balance it out the front is 4/4 and the rear is 5/6. The anti roll bars Run at 2/3.
 
Zedfonzie and Warren4649 are wheel drifters, i presume. Wheel drifters works a lot more with inertia than DS3´ers (specialy d-pad goofies, like me).

Its because DS3´ers works a lot making the front wheel turning with a twitch ugly movement, otherwise they need to make the car behaves similar to a skateboard balancing above a grind momentum, in any generical skateboard game... and also a lot of accel dosage.

As everyone knows (or should), stiffer springs and lowest height suspension usualy hurt the inertia on the car, because the body will move less. But the harsh and unprecise movements provided by the DS3 demands this minor variation.

Im not saying that is mandatory to use stiffer springs with a value around 11-13 if you use a controller (it depends of the car, plus some cars even cant go lower than 10, like the Blue "Amemiya" RX7), but its important to notice that as higher is the springs, you must counter value the damper numbers, or else you will almost using a grip setup.

So yes, i do use overstiff springs and dampers looser than the normal (around 3-5), rarely using more than 5 there... only if the car is a beast to domain with huge HP ammount, like a Corvette or a Ferrari 599.
 
Can someone give some enlightenment about 'how" to set up a diff for drifting purposes?
I mean, I can drift my cars fine, but I'm sure I could do even better if I knew what I was doing when setting up my diff.
I know its ideal to have a 2way diff to drift (at least thats what most pro drifters say), but at the same time their diff are usually set to lock really soon/easily. I tried many different diff settings on the same car but barely feel any difference in how the car handle.

I need a light!
 
5 60 60 should cause massive low speed , low throttle understeer. A classic sign of a pretty much locked differential.

It may be 60 60 60. Not 100% on the initial torque setting. Isn't well explained. I know what it does. I just don't know what gt5 has as it being quick or slow to react.
 
Warren4649
Not to mention that it looks stupid.
Before I was using really stiff springs (like 13kg front 11kg rear) and handling was crap. I could drift because of my experience in Lfs and other games but it was not enjoyable and I had to way too much steering corrections (I use a wheel).
As soon as I lowered the spring stiffness handling became far better.
As for the LSD I set it to 60 all around on hi powered cars (or 60 50 55 if the diff locks too much) and 5 60 60 on low powered cars thus making the diff lock instantly.
Click to expand...

What is a diff lock? Sorry if i sound like a total tool :sly:
 
A locked diff means that both wheels receive the same amount of torque at all times.
What it does is making the car really difficult to turn under grip
conditions but easier to drift than with an open diff.
Open diff = torque goes to the wheel that has the less constraint.
For example if your car has a really stiff chassis and during a turn the inside rear wheel is lifted it'll receive all the torque.
 
Anyone got some points on using the brakes without ABS? I try out 2 Front 3 Rear and I find it works like a charm.
 
Warren4649
A locked diff means that both wheels receive the same amount of torque at all times.
What it does is making the car really difficult to turn under grip
conditions but easier to drift than with an open diff.
Open diff = torque goes to the wheel that has the less constraint.
For example if your car has a really stiff chassis and during a turn the inside rear wheel is lifted it'll receive all the torque.
Click to expand...

Thanks, warren!
 
i think it varies from person to person, i personally dont try others setups as ive been using the same method since gt3 and its been working out great for me. if u look at real drift machines from vopt they have a stiffer spring in front and softer in back, this is usually reversed with MR layout cars cause of the weight difference from front to back. if u do some trial and error like someone mentioned like for example, if a car is light weight already u dont want the front springs to be too stiff, you want it to even out so to speak, and like wise with a heavier car. its really just messing around with it and the LSD that works best for me thats been mentioned before is the 5/60/60 and jsut practice. a lot of power isnt always a good thing too but just have fun!
 

Latest Posts

Back