What is the realist steering degree setting?

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I know for most street cars it is 900, but for rally cars/karts/f1 the game automatically adjusts it from 900. I just discovered that you can change the steering degree (4 settings) on the G25/27 via the buttons in front of the shifter, so what would be the most realistic setting when driving karts/f1/regular cars?

Taken from the T500 RS manual regarding increasing or decreasing steering rotation on the T500:

"This tip will not function properly in some games (such as GRAN TURISMO® 5)
which adjust or modify the angle of rotation at startup or at the restart of each race,
according to the type of car being used."

You change it like this on G25/27

[1+2] + O = ~670°
[1+2] + S = ~450°
[1+2] + X = 900° Resets to default
[1+2] + T = ~240°
G27_UDG_mini.jpg
 
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Depends what formula1 car you want to drive classic or new , 270 for new up to 540 for classic.

Rally be around 540 and go karts 240-270
 
I think he has a fantech wheel , not 100% but I think you can change wheel rotation independently
 
You can change the T500 on the wheel as well. F1 current cars would be closer to 210-220 L2L. Everything else I would agree on.
 
What about touring/gt cars e.g. GT3? I would assume they would go for something less than a street car's full 900º?
 
I use a Fanatec and while there are 5 slots for saved settings and you can set the steering to pretty much anything you want I keep that setting at Off when playing GT and let the game handle the steering. I do not know what degree it is using on any given car but some do feel different than others though I'm not sure that they are accurate. A few feel a bit tighter than the real car should be and a couple feel like the rotation is a bit high.

In any case I have not had any problems driving them at this point so I just leave the setting alone.
 
@oohhh yeah after those G27 settings game still changes degrees, like using 670 and karts, game changes real degrees to 180.
670 with 6 (and 7) sensitivity on steering will match also graphically, as being maybe best degree for G27 on GT6.
On fanatec there was problems on earlier firmwares, it's locking wheel and won't let game alter degrees as it should do, and you have change degrees for different cars manually. In.example karts. Not sure of fanatec has corrected this problem on later firmwares.
 
The game corrects the steering ratios to their proper real world counterparts. Just because it's taking you longer to reach lock, doesn't mean your tires are still moving. F1 cars wheels stop moving waaay before you're even close to lock.

All of this is pointless and could potentially damage your wheels. Slamming against the lock isn't a good idea!
 
@Bluntified, I have used that 670 from begin of August (5½month), at least 2hour/day gaming and only thing what I have noticed on wheel is that at it's now running cooler than it was running on default, really hard to believe at Logitech internally coded thing on proper use is damaging it on PS3 game what hardly uses "Centering Spring" feature from wheel. PC use and pushing center spring 100% and lowered deadzone by this Hardware option might start loading engines, but who is so stupid to do that? (Oh I forget, Fanatec, some of their Firmwares are grilling engines constantly when deadzone is zero and centering spring is activated, thats reason why Logitech is having "hardware" Deadzone on center, avoiding constant engine grilling with centering spring, 670 leaves ~1% or less, but it doesn't matter on GT6, game it self is protecting Logitech wheel, and releasing Centering Spring soon as its not used by FFB effects)
 
On the G27 I use 670 deg for race cars, but on street cars 670 causes the front tires to heat up way too much leading to lack of grip and braking problems. It is particularly bad on FWD and AWD cars.
 

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