What to look for in a car when buying

V

vintageone

3
Hey i'm new kind of to the GT atmosphere and i want to know.. my friends who arent profesionanls like you guys say "Look for the highest hp , then tork it up" And i was wondering what about all that other stuff like weight and Torque what i s tourqe and

what do i RELALY look for in a car
 
Look for power and weight mainly. Before driving the car you can't determine it's handling or brakes, so these are your main indicators of the cars preformance.

Also when modding a car, don't go straight for the biggest turbo. If you'll be using it in races that allow racing tires that should be your first upgrade. Suspension, weight reduction, brakes and transmision upgrades are much cheaper then the top engine upgrades and can do more for your car. Cheap engine upgrades like chips and exhaust are often good, so are superchargers if available. Look at the price and the hp numbers you get for each upgrade and find the one thats most worth the money.
 
its a shame in GT4 that it will only tell you the horsepower increase when at the upgrade shop and not torque increase, but in the car settings menu when applying and taking off you can see the max torque difference
 
I look for the lightest car given its got decent power as this will generally indicate how good a car is to its tyres. Although suspension tuning has a large part to play later on with tyre wear.
 
I buy something I really want to own, and then try and make it work. I find it more fun coming second in a car I really like, and then making it win, than I do winning first time in a car I am not interested in. For instance, the VW races on my save game have never been disturbed, at all. B-spec will probably be employed some time to complete them just to get 100% and a black Formula GT prize car, and the Suzuka Beetle mission, which I HAD to race myself, was a particularly dark 30 minutes of my life.

If you need a road car to race then avoid specials or midified cars like the ZZ11 and Buick Special since they cannot enter races for unmodified cars. Also avoid the Caterham since that cannot be raced against 6 cars.

Other than that just make sure that the car fits the series you want to race it in. MR cars for the MR challenge, etc.
 
I could have sworn Ive raced my Buick Special in races that you cant take modified cars into. I thought what it mean was no race or tuners cars.
 
vintageone
[...] what i s tourqe [...]
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I'll try to explain - I heard an analogy in these forums that describes this pretty well.

Imagine two bicyclists, racing eachother. One of them, let's call him Cycle A, are awesome at the tough, steep slopes - he goes with a steady speed, and climbs well. However, on the straights, he just can't keep up. The other bicyclist, Cycle B, can't cope with the steep hills, but he's got an awesome stamina and passes Cycle A on the long straight.
Cycle A is Torque, and Cycle B is Horsepower.

A useful tip with regards to torque:
In rallying, torque is VERY important. When you tune/upgrade your car, keep an eye on the Torque vs. HP graph, and try to maximize your torque.

Good luck :)
 
Nate14Gt
Look for power and weight mainly. Before driving the car you can't determine it's handling or brakes, so these are your main indicators of the cars preformance.

Also when modding a car, don't go straight for the biggest turbo. If you'll be using it in races that allow racing tires that should be your first upgrade. Suspension, weight reduction, brakes and transmision upgrades are much cheaper then the top engine upgrades and can do more for your car. Cheap engine upgrades like chips and exhaust are often good, so are superchargers if available. Look at the price and the hp numbers you get for each upgrade and find the one thats most worth the money.
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Excellent advice here from Nate.

Unfortunately, there's no magic to knowing what will be a good car in the showroom, unless you know something about the car itself to begin with. The magic is all in the handling and you'll never feel that until you drive it.

My only real rule of thumb would be to rank the drivetrains by order of preference: RWD > AWD > FWD. However doing this can make you pass up some excellent and nice to drive FWD cars.

My advice is to try things out in arcade free run if you can. Some cars have a good feel right off the bat, and some are obvious dogs.
 
Alfaholic
I buy something I really want to own, and then try and make it work. I find it more fun coming second in a car I really like, and then making it win, than I do winning first time in a car I am not interested in. For instance, the VW races on my save game have never been disturbed, at all. B-spec will probably be employed some time to complete them just to get 100% and a black Formula GT prize car, and the Suzuka Beetle mission, which I HAD to race myself, was a particularly dark 30 minutes of my life.

If you need a road car to race then avoid specials or midified cars like the ZZ11 and Buick Special since they cannot enter races for unmodified cars. Also avoid the Caterham since that cannot be raced against 6 cars.

Other than that just make sure that the car fits the series you want to race it in. MR cars for the MR challenge, etc.
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I totaly agree on this one, I hate vw's so I just don't buy them, it's the only manufacturer with untouched events on my card.

I bought a beetle cup car once to enter the beetle cup, tried a few laps, found out the car handled just like a real beetle and sold it. I''ll never touch one again. The only one driving that car will be B-Spec Bob because I want that 100%.
 
vintageone
Hey i'm new kind of to the GT atmosphere and i want to know.. my friends who arent profesionanls like you guys say "Look for the highest hp , then tork it up" And i was wondering what about all that other stuff like weight and Torque what i s tourqe and

what do i RELALY look for in a car
Click to expand...

Wheels.....

Thanks you very much, I'm here all week
 
First, make sure it has drive wheels in the back. Then go for the best power/weight ratio you can for the amount of cash you're willing to spend. Also, I only like to buy cars that can't be won, especially if they're rare used cars like the 240SX Road Car.
 
Berrern
I'll try to explain - I heard an analogy in these forums that describes this pretty well.

Imagine two bicyclists, racing eachother. One of them, let's call him Cycle A, are awesome at the tought slopes - he goes with a steady speed, and climbs well. However, on the straights, he just can't keep up. The other bicyclist, Cycle B, can't cope with the steep hills, but he's got an awesome stamina and passes Cycle A on the long straight.

Cycle A is Horsepower, and Cycle B is torque.
Click to expand...

Other way round, surely?
 
vintageone
what i s tourqe
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Torque. To make a screw or bolt really really tight, you need to apply lots of torque (twisting force) to the screwdriver. To tighten it really really quickly, you need power to rotate the screwdriver at high speed (rate of work).

Torgue affects how much work something can do. A steam engine is torquey, so it can move very heavy loads that, say, a Formula 1 car would not be able to move. But some steam trains are faster than others. The faster a steam train can get a particular load from point A to point B, the more powerful it is.

ADDITION: In the bicycle analogy, a person that can push harder on the pedal, is producing more torque. The person that can spin the pedals around faster, is producing more power. You can see from this that the person with torque will be able to climb a steeper hill, and the person with power will be faster on level ground, assuming he has enough torque to drive the same gear, since power is a product of torque and.... my head hurts. :yuck:
 
AWD cars are always a good option. Especially cars like the WRX, the Skyline or the Lancer. They arent too expensive, handle fairly well, and have decent stock hp ratings. If you do use an AWD car, be sure to upgrade the suspension and by a spoiler, and lower it and increase the downforce a little, because the AWDs seem to ride a little higher than most cars, and you can get better lap times just by modifying those two aspects. My personal favourite drive type is MR. It has the torque and rear end grip of an FR, and the engine in the middle provides stability and good weight balance. I have a fully tuned MR2 G-limited, around 390 hp and it keeps up easily with the R34's and WRX's. The best thing to do when buying a new car, is to base your desicion on personal experience. Buy something you know of. If its good in real life, its likely to be good on GT4.
 

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