Wheel oscillation issue post 6.0

  • Thread starter mister dog
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mister dog

mister dog

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misterdog
misterdog7
CSR here, and as widely reported over at the official forum (but with no definitive conclusion yet), wheel is oscillating after 6.0 now. It's most noticeable on the new Lotus 49C, but all cars seem to suffer from it and it is an issue for a lot of different wheels at this moment.

Tried fiddling with the FFB settings, as it seems there are way more spikey FFB signals appearing on the telemetry now compared to how it was before, but i wasn't able to dial it out yet.

I experience vibrations in the rim now every time i turn the wheel, feels just like driving on flat spotted tyres...

Quite sure something was changed to the FFB because of 6.0, and it wasn't for the good.
 
I am a g920 user and I can confirm that it does it on mine too. It's actually not that bad while driving, but when I am in the tune set up screen it shakes violently also if I let go the wheel while driving it shakes too. It wasn't like this before.
 
Have not noticed it yet, but I had it happen long before 6.0 (when I was still using T500RS) on one of the old Lotus cars: violent shaking, even waiting on the grid. I could barely hold the wheel still when using force to do so.
I'm yet to try the DLC classics.
 
I've had the spiky ffb on occasion well before 6.0 (Also CSR), but if you're having oscillations you should maybe lower the deadzone removal range, that might fix it. Also I've noticed with the 49 and 49C, the Mz FFB signal is very harsh, and requires a fair bit of Mz smoothing to get rid of the gravelly feeling.
 
FOG-Smokebeer
Yes the 49/49c are the only cars with the fx smooth setting on 50 the rest mostly use 20
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Mostly 10 for other cars, but it's not just heaps of Fx smoothing the 49s need, they also need around 40 or 50 Mz smoothing. The 49 especially vibrates the hell outta the wheel under brakes without Mz smoothing. Makes it feel like it's got warped rotors lol. Dunno why it's like that.
 
Mike_grpA
I've had the spiky ffb on occasion well before 6.0 (Also CSR), but if you're having oscillations you should maybe lower the deadzone removal range, that might fix it. Also I've noticed with the 49 and 49C, the Mz FFB signal is very harsh, and requires a fair bit of Mz smoothing to get rid of the gravelly feeling.
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I tried messing around lowering either steering gain or tyre force yesterday, both seemed to help yet didn't remove it entirely. I'll give the deadzone removal range a go next time, thanks for the tip.
 
mister dog
I tried messing around lowering either steering gain or tyre force yesterday, both seemed to help yet didn't remove it entirely. I'll give the deadzone removal range a go next time, thanks for the tip.
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No prob. I originally had deadzone removal set to a value that was suggested at the official forum for a CSR, but after a while I found it just overpowered the centre a bit too much. The CSR's motor isn't too strong, so making the ffb around centre strong with too much deadzone removal will make the motor max out and start clipping earlier, as well as oscillate at centre, a la GT games.

Seriously, did anyone else notice how bad the oscillating was in GT5 and 6? and we didn't get any options to adjust anything to try fix it either. Makes me appreciate the ridiculous amount of ffb options we get in Pcars, even though setting everything up initially is a colossal pain in the arse lol.
 
Mike_grpA
Seriously, did anyone else notice how bad the oscillating was in GT5 and 6? and we didn't get any options to adjust anything to try fix it either. Makes me appreciate the ridiculous amount of ffb options we get in Pcars, even though setting everything up initially is a colossal pain in the arse lol.
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I've tried GT6 with 3 Fanatec wheels recently (all part of my wheeling & dealing). The GT3 on stock firmware has serious amounts of oscillation, it also has huge amounts of FFB, more than the other Fanatec wheels I tested. The GT2 on 756 firmware has practically no oscillation, & has less FFB than the GT3. The CSR on 701 firmware feels the same as the GT2 with very little oscillation, but has a very weird heavy feeling when turning that I didn't get with the other 2 wheels. The tuning settings on all 3 wheels were identical.

I've still not tried Project CARS with a wheel since 6.0.
 
That's weird lol. I've only played Gt5 and 6 with a GT3RS, a CSR, a DFGT, and a G27, and they all oscillated badly and the ffb felt pretty basic. Main differences to me were the GT3RS was hugely dampened compared to the others, and the Logitech wheels were both rattly as hell, but the DFGT was also weak and slow.

The CSR rim is so light that it takes away that dampening and drag of the GT3, which makes it more responsive, and the FFB feels more detailed, despite using the same motor.

I'd ideally have a CSW V2, but they're now a grand just for the base in Australia. I'd pick a T500 after that, but even those are over $700.
 
I use the T300 and with the Lotus 49 my wheel vibrates, but it's i can control it, if i don't easy my hands of the wheel, it's ok.

But a friend uses a T500 and it was so violenty that i can hear the his wheel from his mic. Really anwkward indeed.
 
Mike_grpA
I'd ideally have a CSW V2, but they're now a grand just for the base in Australia. I'd pick a T500 after that, but even those are over $700.
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If you ever get round to getting the Fanatec CSW V2 I can almost guarantee that you wouldn't regret it. I previously owned a Driving Force Pro, was a good starter wheel & did the job, then upgraded to a G25 when GT5 Prologue came out which was bulletproof if a little loud. When PS4 came out I jumped the gun a little and got a T300. It is a very good wheel but concerns about getting force feedback fade led me to getting the CSW V2 & yeah it certainly ain't cheap & kinda hard to justify the expenditure but I'm so glad I did. It is the best wheel I've ever had by quite some margin (so far).
 
Cocomoto
I use the T300 and with the Lotus 49 my wheel vibrates, but it's i can control it, if i don't easy my hands of the wheel, it's ok.

But a friend uses a T500 and it was so violenty that i can hear the his wheel from his mic. Really anwkward indeed.
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Put Mz smoothing up to 50 and see how it goes mate, that solved the vibrating for me with that car.

McKiernan
If you ever get round to getting the Fanatec CSW V2 I can almost guarantee that you wouldn't regret it. I previously owned a Driving Force Pro, was a good starter wheel & did the job, then upgraded to a G25 when GT5 Prologue came out which was bulletproof if a little loud. When PS4 came out I jumped the gun a little and got a T300. It is a very good wheel but concerns about getting force feedback fade led me to getting the CSW V2 & yeah it certainly ain't cheap & kinda hard to justify the expenditure but I'm so glad I did. It is the best wheel I've ever had by quite some margin (so far).
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Yeah I know I wouldn't regret it as far as how great they are, as I've done so much research on wheels, and read novels worth of forum posts on tons of forums about all the wheels, which in the end led me to the conclusion that the CSW V2 is the top of the tree when it comes to console compatible wheels.

What I would regret is being castrated by the Mrs as a result of spending $1000 on a wheel base that doesn't even have a rim. I'd get the almost $300 Formula rim of course, but then I'd want a GT type wheel as well, and those are about $500 a piece, and of course I'd then want the nice shifter, which is another $400 odd, o in the end I'd spend more than $2000 on it.

She sees my sim rig as a glorified man toy (which let's be honest, it kinda is), and she's not pleased that I've spent the money on it that I have, despite the fact that I got both the wheel and the CSPs really cheap, and I built the rig for it out of stuff I got for free. Then there's the problem I'd be facing where I could either get a CSW V2, or spend that money on some serious gear for my car.


Guess I need either a higher paying job, or to win the lottery...

Edit: Hopefully the CSL base is both decent quality, and reasonably priced, because if it is I'll get that.
 
Mike_grpA
Put Mz smoothing up to 50 and see how it goes mate, that solved the vibrating for me with that car.



Yeah I know I wouldn't regret it as far as how great they are, as I've done so much research on wheels, and read novels worth of forum posts on tons of forums about all the wheels, which in the end led me to the conclusion that the CSW V2 is the top of the tree when it comes to console compatible wheels.

What I would regret is being castrated by the Mrs as a result of spending $1000 on a wheel base that doesn't even have a rim. I'd get the almost $300 Formula rim of course, but then I'd want a GT type wheel as well, and those are about $500 a piece, and of course I'd then want the nice shifter, which is another $400 odd, o in the end I'd spend more than $2000 on it.

She sees my sim rig as a glorified man toy (which let's be honest, it kinda is), and she's not pleased that I've spent the money on it that I have, despite the fact that I got both the wheel and the CSPs really cheap, and I built the rig for it out of stuff I got for free. Then there's the problem I'd be facing where I could either get a CSW V2, or spend that money on some serious gear for my car.


Guess I need either a higher paying job, or to win the lottery...

Edit: Hopefully the CSL base is both decent quality, and reasonably priced, because if it is I'll get that.
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Does anyone know how to find a CSW V2 in the UK? All I've found so far online are in Dollars or Euros?!
 
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No idea mate, but they have a distributor in Aus so I'd be bloody shocked if they didn't have one in the UK. Good luck with the search mate.
 
Mike_grpA
Seriously, did anyone else notice how bad the oscillating was in GT5 and 6?
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Yes it was really really bad in some cars and even more so after one of the patches. I remember that Toyota LMP car being absolutely horrible to drive on Lemans using my Elite wheel in GT6.

On GT5 the X1 was really bad, had to set some deadzone in the wheel 10-20 deadzone settings to calm it down. Overall that was probably the thing I disliked the most about driving in GT. It was even worse in GT5P.


I haven't played PCars in a while but I was playing around with the deadzone removal settings early on and was able to remove or add oscillation to the wheel with this setting. I finally set it to where there was no feel of play in the wheel yet you could let go of the wheel and the car would stay straight. Tested this mostly with the Karts as they seemed to be the worst to want to wander around.
 
HBR-Roadhog
Yes it was really really bad in some cars and even more so after one of the patches. I remember that Toyota LMP car being absolutely horrible to drive on Lemans using my Elite wheel in GT6.

On GT5 the X1 was really bad, had to set some deadzone in the wheel 10-20 deadzone settings to calm it down. Overall that was probably the thing I disliked the most about driving in GT. It was even worse in GT5P.


I haven't played PCars in a while but I was playing around with the deadzone removal settings early on and was able to remove or add oscillation to the wheel with this setting. I finally set it to where there was no feel of play in the wheel yet you could let go of the wheel and the car would stay straight. Tested this mostly with the Karts as they seemed to be the worst to want to wander around.
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Exactly my thoughts mate. It'd be good in Pcars if they put the deadzone removal settings in the in-car ffb menu though, as it seems you can get it right for most cars, but there will be a couple of cars that would oscillate, and a couple that will feel limp at centre.
 
Mike_grpA
Yeah I know I wouldn't regret it as far as how great they are, as I've done so much research on wheels, and read novels worth of forum posts on tons of forums about all the wheels, which in the end led me to the conclusion that the CSW V2 is the top of the tree when it comes to console compatible wheels.

What I would regret is being castrated by the Mrs as a result of spending $1000 on a wheel base that doesn't even have a rim. I'd get the almost $300 Formula rim of course, but then I'd want a GT type wheel as well, and those are about $500 a piece, and of course I'd then want the nice shifter, which is another $400 odd, o in the end I'd spend more than $2000 on it.

She sees my sim rig as a glorified man toy (which let's be honest, it kinda is), and she's not pleased that I've spent the money on it that I have, despite the fact that I got both the wheel and the CSPs really cheap, and I built the rig for it out of stuff I got for free. Then there's the problem I'd be facing where I could either get a CSW V2, or spend that money on some serious gear for my car.


Guess I need either a higher paying job, or to win the lottery...

Edit: Hopefully the CSL base is both decent quality, and reasonably priced, because if it is I'll get that.
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Well yeah the wife/gf can be a much more insurmountable obstacle than the finances. Damn them, funny how they can be logical when they want to be. I went for the replica BMW GT rim myself. Here's hoping that one day the stars will align and a perfect opportunity will present itself so that you could get one.
 
McKiernan
Well yeah the wife/gf can be a much more insurmountable obstacle than the finances. Damn them, funny how they can be logical when they want to be. I went for the replica BMW GT rim myself. Here's hoping that one day the stars will align and a perfect opportunity will present itself so that you could get one.
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Haha yeah cheers mate. Maybe once I've done everything I want to do to my car, and I can save my spare pennies on the side. By then there'll probably be a V3 that'll cost twice as much haha.
 
Thanks for all the tips guys! Unfortunately, lowering the deadzone removal range did not completely resolved the violent shaking when I let my hands off the wheel. I use jack spades settings for my g920 I never had this problem before last update. I guess it will be fixed if not, I will try to take a closer look at what might cause this.
 
If deadzone removal doesn't work, or if it's already at the min as @mister dog's is, the next thing I'd try is lowering the lateral FFB, or introducing some smoothing to it. Might not help, but it's worth a try.
 

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