wheel repair help-please
- Thread starter oldphart
- 3 comments
- 855 views
which isn't helping my times any !
- 616
Hi oldphart.
This is a common problem. The consensus seems to be that it is a problem with cold solder joints from the switch to the board. The cold solder allows the switch to move a bit which causes poor connector contact.
I had this problem also a while back, but can't find where I read about the fix.
Good news is that it is easily fixed if you have access to a soldering pencil. You need to remove the wheel from main dfp unit by removing the 4 bolts hidden under the center logo. You may wreck the logo when removing because it is fastened to the wheel with double sided tape. I didn't take the time to be careful, so my wheel is now sans decorative logo!
Unplug the main connector, then remove the wheel. There are a number of very small screws on the back side of the wheel that you need to remove to gain access to the button boards. Then there are a couple more screws that attach the boards to the wheel face. You will need to remove only the one that needs repairing if you wish, but when repairing mine, I did both up and down shift. I didn't want to have to repeat this process of repair for the downshift in the future! 👍
Once you have board in hand, it is a simple matter of heating each of the 4 connection prongs on the switch and possibly putting a small drop of solder in to make a good connection. I used .010" diameter electronics solder, but only on a couple of connections because there was plenty there from the factory. Just heat them up till the dot of solder looks shiny and is obviously liquid. Then let it cool before moving on to the next prong. Reassemble, and go race! I've been using mine for 7-8 months now after the fix with no missed shift problem at all. 👍
If you have any questions, just PM me! I'll look a little further for the thread that had pics along with the fix.
Edit: Here's the link I was searching for. The last few posts are most pertinent and come complete with some great links. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=71223
This is a common problem. The consensus seems to be that it is a problem with cold solder joints from the switch to the board. The cold solder allows the switch to move a bit which causes poor connector contact.
I had this problem also a while back, but can't find where I read about the fix.
Good news is that it is easily fixed if you have access to a soldering pencil. You need to remove the wheel from main dfp unit by removing the 4 bolts hidden under the center logo. You may wreck the logo when removing because it is fastened to the wheel with double sided tape. I didn't take the time to be careful, so my wheel is now sans decorative logo!
Unplug the main connector, then remove the wheel. There are a number of very small screws on the back side of the wheel that you need to remove to gain access to the button boards. Then there are a couple more screws that attach the boards to the wheel face. You will need to remove only the one that needs repairing if you wish, but when repairing mine, I did both up and down shift. I didn't want to have to repeat this process of repair for the downshift in the future! 👍
Once you have board in hand, it is a simple matter of heating each of the 4 connection prongs on the switch and possibly putting a small drop of solder in to make a good connection. I used .010" diameter electronics solder, but only on a couple of connections because there was plenty there from the factory. Just heat them up till the dot of solder looks shiny and is obviously liquid. Then let it cool before moving on to the next prong. Reassemble, and go race! I've been using mine for 7-8 months now after the fix with no missed shift problem at all. 👍
If you have any questions, just PM me! I'll look a little further for the thread that had pics along with the fix.
Edit: Here's the link I was searching for. The last few posts are most pertinent and come complete with some great links. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=71223
