Wheel settings thread! TM/Logi/Fana

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Got my Logitech G920 a couple of hours ago, and tried it out in FM5, FH2, and FM6. Having a blast with it, but figured it might be good to have a wheel settings thread.

These are the settings I am currently running in FM5/FH2/FM6

steering deadzone 0/100

Accel deadzone 0/100

Braking deadzone 0/100

Clutch deadzone 15/75

Vibration 40%

Force feedback 75%

steering rotation 900° for road cars.
Race cars 540°
Open wheel race cars 300° to 360°.

I can also confirm that the Logitech G27 shifter works with the G920 on the Xbox one. I have been driving around for the last 2 an half hours between FM5, FM6 and FH2, and the G27 shifter works in all 3.
 
Good thread :gtpflag:

My settings with Fanatec CSW v2 with the Xbox One Hub and OMP Wheel rim

Steering deadzone 0/100

Accel deadzone 5/95

Braking deadzone 0/100

Clutch deadzone 15/75

Vibration 20%

Force feedback 100%

steering rotation 720°

Will post my on wheel settings later.

I was determined to use 900° steering but it just doesn't work for me. Just feels like something funky is going on. I changed to 720° last night and that seemed like an improvement. I've seen a lot of people say 540° is the sweet spot but will see how I get on with 720° first.

Oh, and one of the devs posted over at .net about ffb wheels, it's worth a read. http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/t...eels-and-You---A-Hopefully-Helpful-Guide.aspx
 
@PzR Slim When I had my TX wheel I always used 900° for the road cars, so I guess I just got used to it. Plus I do the same in Assetto and Pcars on the pc as well, among other games I own.
 
@PzR Slim When I had my TX wheel I always used 900° for the road cars, so I guess I just got used to it. Plus I do the same in Assetto and Pcars on the pc as well, among other games I own.
Oh believe me in every other sim I play, Rfactor 2, AC, PCars, iRacing, R3E, the list is endless lol, I have no problems with the wheel at 900° and can hold my own with the very quickest guys in those sims. It all feels very natural with those games, using a wheel is intuitive and I'm immediately on the pace in all of them. It's not the case in Forza 5 or 6. Something weird is going on. Not sure if it's the ffb or something else. I'm sure I can learn how to drive Forza 6 with a wheel but it's certainly not natural. I gave up on FM5 as it was so bad. Things have defo improved since FM5 but it's different to every other sim I play. And this is coming from someone whose used a wheel with Forza since the microsoft wireless wheel was first released and in FM2, 3 & 4 I was a top 20 guy in lots of leaderboards.

I just need to practice more and more to 'learn# how to use the wheel in Forza.

Edit: I've been struggling with the V8 Supercars Race at Bathurst in the Race Driver Experience. With the wheel I can get 4th or 5th but just can't get a top three. Just tried with the pad and easily got 3rd, should have been 1st but made a mistake on the last lap! And when you consider that is the first time I've tried the pad with FM6 and the first time I've not used a wheel with a racing game other than Drive Club for many years I think it tells it's own story.

I hate the fact that it would appear to be competitive in FM6 I'm going to need to use the pad. Every other sim I've ever played with both wheel and pad I've always been quicker with the wheel.
 
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@PzR Slim I have noticed something funny going on with the FFB while drifting in FM6 though, it feels like there is a ton of damping.

Luckily I have a drift setting on my CSW V2 so I can get rid of that artificially. I have been forced to move down to 540 rotation and that seems to have improved things even more. For example I've just finished first in the Formula Ford race around Hockenheim. I found that impossible when using 900. It's seems to me that the front tyres are absolutely planted no matter what and there is an on/off switch at a certain steering wheel angle that means insta-massive-oversteer. If you can keep the wheel just below that angle then all is fine but as soon as you hit that angle the car just goes instantly. This happens in all car types but is much worse in RWD cars and occurs when on or off throttle and it's a proper wtf moment especially at very slow speeds with no throttle applied. There is just no progression, it's all or nothing. I really don't want to have to go down to 360 and just hope that 540 and a bit more practice will pay dividends.
 
I hate the fact that it would appear to be competitive in FM6 I'm going to need to use the pad. Every other sim I've ever played with both wheel and pad I've always been quicker with the wheel.

I've never tried Forza with a wheel, but did you think it's possible that the CS V2 is "too much" for a game "arcade" as the Forza series? (compared to AC, iR, ecc) Have you ever tried the game with another steering wheel?
 
I've never tried Forza with a wheel, but did you think it's possible that the CS V2 is "too much" for a game "arcade" as the Forza series? (compared to AC, iR, ecc) Have you ever tried the game with another steering wheel?
I don't think it's anything to do with the wheel to be honest. I played FM5 with a Thrustmaster TX and that had exactly the same tendencies.
 
So i finally received my adopter for my old G27 pedals to go with the TM TX Wheel, What a difference!
My laptimes are allready getting faster due to the much better gas and brake control.

I have all the deadzones at 0 and 100 except now brake witch i have at 3/70 may need to go lower then 70, we´ll see.

Then i have vib on 90, FFB at 58 (seems to suit the most cars without getting my arms ripped off, and then rotation at 540.
 
I can also confirm that the Logitech G27 shifter works with the G920 on the Xbox one. I have been driving around for the last 2 an half hours between FM5, FM6 and FH2, and the G27 shifter works in all 3.

That's interesting - I've ordered the G920 shifter but sounds like I might be able to use my old G25 one? In fact that might let me use the old sequential mode.
 
That's interesting - I've ordered the G920 shifter but sounds like I might be able to use my old G25 one? In fact that might let me use the old sequential mode.
I'm sure I read on these very forums of someone who has successfully used a G25 shifter in game with the G920. Possibly even lalyrn.
 
That's interesting - I've ordered the G920 shifter but sounds like I might be able to use my old G25 one? In fact that might let me use the old sequential mode.

I don't know if the G25 shifter will work, and I really doubt the sequential mode would even if the H-pattern mode did.

@PzR Slim I am using the shifter from my G27, not the G25.
 
I have been having a blast so far with my Fanatec only have about 14hrs wheel time but I am pretty happy with my settings so far.
Forza 6 in game settings...
Steering deadzone 0/100
Accel deadzone 1/100
Deaccel deadzone 0/100
Clutch deadzone 7/95
Forcefeed back 77
Vibration 77
DOR 900
Simulation steering set on

Fanatec CSW v2 settings...
SEN - Auto
FF - Auto
SHO - 50 (I havent tried different #s yet)
ABS - 69 (I run high brake pressure in game)
LIN - Off
DEA - Off
DRI - 5

I typically like a light fast wheel, The center effect spring is still not to my liking (I found FH2 has the best center spring feeling to me) but with this setting I can catch 95% of slides and snap oversteer corrections, the 5% I cannot are if I am PIT manuevered or I am riding certain curbs the wrong way. I drive mostly roadcars and I happy with the settings on a E class skyline all the way to R class P1. The wheel I find works even better in the rain than the dry, this is the first game I get exicted when the track is wet and rainy:tup:.
 
Well I am using a lowly TM 458 Spider simply because I wanted to be able to use a wheel and did not want to shell out a lot of cash right now. Having been using the Fanatec CSR Elite since FM4 on the 360, PS3 and PC the 458 is quite a step down, no FFB and the pedals are a joke compared to the club sports for sure.

That said after a tweak to the pedals and figuring out how to set the sensitivity down on the wheel it is better than I expected. With the default settings it is not very good but it you set the sensitivity to min and mod the brake pedal [I used a thing that is egg shaped and seems to be made out of some sort of gel] so now the brakes work pretty well and the steering is tolerable. I miss the FFB but is better than a game pad and better than I expected for $89
 
After some messing around with my in game controller settings, I seemed to have partially solved some issues when drifting with 900°. But not all of them. The issue I am having, is that the wheel is struggling to rotate on its own while drifting. This has mostly been solved with my new settings, and they may help for racing also. I have yet to test in a race.

Basic controller options:

"Rumble" OFF!

Advanced controller options:

steering deadzone 0/100

Accel deadzone 0/100

Braking deadzone 0/100

Clutch deadzone 15/75

Vibration 0%

Force feedback 60%

steering rotation 900° for road cars + drifting
Race cars 540°
Open wheel race cars 300° to 360°.

For what ever reason, it appears the rumble/vibration effects are messing with the force feedback for wheels. I get the impression that after my alterations, that it may be down to the heptic feedback for the default controllers triggers interfering some how. After turning Rumble off and setting vibration to 0%, the wheel will now rotate on its own while drifting. For the most part anyway. There also seems to be issues with sports tires, which have always been the go to tires for competitive drifting in Forza. These tires are most in line with what are used in real world drifting competitions, which is why the tandem drifting community adopted their use when drifting. This still seems to be causing some minor issues with the steering wheel rotating on its own in a drifting situation, but in a stock car with its normal road tires, there is no longer any issues. Obviously there is some funky things going on in Forza Motorsport 6's underpinnings. Both in the controller settings when a wheel is in use, and with the tires in the game. These issues are a non issue when the default controller is in use however, just when using a racing wheel. I will be doing more testing on this, and will update my settings in this thread accordingly.

@SlipZtrEm Also, would be there any chance this thread could get a sticky? It would be a viable reference for new wheel users, and make it easier to find to point anyone who needs advice on wheel settings for Forza games.
 
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I still haven't set up my Thrustmaster TX since getting my new console, but I've just ordered the T3PA Pro pedals and the TH8A Shifter (there go another A$440), and I'm looking forward to setting it all up when the add-ons get here. About time I finally switch to manual.
 
I still haven't set up my Thrustmaster TX since getting my new console, but I've just ordered the T3PA Pro pedals and the TH8A Shifter (there go another A$440), and I'm looking forward to setting it all up when the add-ons get here. About time I finally switch to manual.
You're going to love them (I have the same exact setup). Be warned though, unless you seriously slow down your shifting speed, you're going to get an obnoxious grinding noise every gear shift. I really hope T10 fixes this. I almost don't enjoy manual w/clutch anymore because of it.
 
You're going to love them (I have the same exact setup). Be warned though, unless you seriously slow down your shifting speed, you're going to get an obnoxious grinding noise every gear shift. I really hope T10 fixes this. I almost don't enjoy manual w/clutch anymore because of it.

That only happens when in the cockpit view, so it is probably something connected to the animation in that view. If you are running on the bonnet view, it doesn't happen, and you can shift as fast as you are able without gearbox grinding or damage. It does need fixing though, as it does put a dent in the level of immersion.
 
I have a Fanatec CSW V2 with the Universal Hub for Xbox One and the GT Rim. After a lot of trial and error, this is what works for me.

Advanced controller settings in Forza Motorsport 6:
  • Steering deadzones: 0/100
  • Accel deadzones: 0/100
  • Braking deadzones: 0/100
  • Clutch deadzones: 10/80
  • Vibration: 100%
  • Force feedback: 100%
  • Steering rotation: 900º

CSW V2 Tuning Menu:
  • Sen: Auto
  • FF: 37 for production cars, as high as 85 for racing vehicles.
  • Sho: 100
  • ABS: 85
  • Lin: Off
  • Dea: Off
  • Dri: Off

A few observations: Fanatec's auto setting for sensitivity seems to work very well for me, so I just leave it there. Setting FF to Auto in the tuning menu was very smooth, but steering was just too light and unrealistic, with poor on-center feel. With my older Fanatec wheels it was considered best practice to leave the FFB tuning in the wheel at 100 and adjust the game software force feedback scale, but that still feels a little odd in Forza 6. I get much better results when I leave the game force feedback at 100 and tune the wheel down. It is far, far smoother this way and still very responsive. Counter steering forces feel very good and I feel connected to the road.
 
@lalyrn nice find :cheers:. I just turned off "rumble" (I never would of seen that adjustment had you not mention it) and noticed a difference in center spring & countersteering right away. I haven't tried vibration at 0% yet but I'll try it out tomorrow 👍... Thanks!
 
RMX
@lalyrn nice find :cheers:. I just turned off "rumble" (I never would of seen that adjustment had you not mention it) and noticed a difference in center spring & countersteering right away. I haven't tried vibration at 0% yet but I'll try it out tomorrow 👍... Thanks!

+1..I have been having problems with some weird oversteer when turning into a corner. Almost violent oversteer for no reason..So violent that its hard to turn the wheel to try to correct. But turned off "rumble" and the wheel seems to snap back center now after a turn. Iv gotten used to the rumble effects and kinda miss them when I go over bumps/curbs but I can live with out them if I can be faster. Turned my FFB down form 100 to 80 and like it. I dont think I havent messed with the vibration but I guees since there is no rumble there shouldnt be any vibration. But since rockymtrider has found this he will be even faster =(
 
+1..I have been having problems with some weird oversteer when turning into a corner. Almost violent oversteer for no reason..So violent that its hard to turn the wheel to try to correct. But turned off "rumble" and the wheel seems to snap back center now after a turn. Iv gotten used to the rumble effects and kinda miss them when I go over bumps/curbs but I can live with out them if I can be faster. Turned my FFB down form 100 to 80 and like it. I dont think I havent messed with the vibration but I guees since there is no rumble there shouldnt be any vibration. But since rockymtrider has found this he will be even faster =(

Looks like I need to play with my settings a little as well, as I've lost my car (Honda Indy) quite violently on a few occasions today. Only just set up my TX with my new pedals and shifter today, so all is still on the default settings. As a side note, somehow I can't get used to the H-Shifter just yet (regularly shifted the wrong way), so sequential will have to do until I get a little more used to my new setup with clutch. Loving it so far, though, even figured I'd set a couple of hardcore times, which I would never have considered with my controller.
 
Just ordered the G920 and a wheelstand pro today:). But i have to wait till monday for it. Had the xbox wheel with forza4 , hope its just as good.
 
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