Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

There's far too many variables to qualitatively say "do/don't use gloves". Every glove is different as is every person using said gloves. Logically, if you have gloves with substantial grip then they're going to cause more friction, which can result in premature wear to the materials on the wheel.

Please get in touch with support.
What about bare hands? Is that the same? Each hand is as different and can cause premature wear? I only got 1 set of hands. I also do not like to use more than 2-3.5 Nm when I play.
Can I get colored restitching and a matching top center clamp in yellow? Red? Maybe Logical tech blue?

Maybe you’re working on a flexible LCD Display to use as the top center marker with unlimited colors and functions?
If not what is the best way to mark my wheel TDC?
 
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I'm using Logitech gloves + Pure SIM Gloves - the most expensive model. About 10 months of use, lots of racing, no sign of wear on the wheel.


You mentioned Pure SIM Gloves. Are those the right one: PURE SimGear Sim Racing Glove Pro which cost 25€?
How to they look ( gloves ) after 10months of usage? Are they thin enought so your hands dont sweat but at the same time enough of grip?

I do have own motocross / cycling gloves. They are good for driving, they are thin and my hands dont sweat. But after 2months of usage they dont look very well.

 
You mentioned Pure SIM Gloves. Are those the right one: PURE SimGear Sim Racing Glove Pro which cost 25€?
How to they look ( gloves ) after 10months of usage? Are they thin enought so your hands dont sweat but at the same time enough of grip?

I do have own motocross / cycling gloves. They are good for driving, they are thin and my hands dont sweat. But after 2months of usage they dont look very well.

Those look a lot like the gloves I'm using. Only difference I can see is that mine have a bit more grip and a cushion in the palm. I like the ones I got because they are breathable, lightweight and work with my smartphone. I've only had them for a month so I can't really speak about how they will last or how they will effect the wheel, but so far they seem pretty good.

STRASSE Gaming Gloves, Racing Gloves, Gaming Gloves, Simulator, Strasse https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B08KH3VBQG?starsLeft=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_R6G3VHNZ36CPARD0NJBR
 
@LOGI_Rich or anyone!
I just got a PC for racing ACC on. But im having some trouble with my wheel.
Often the game can find it and i can map the buttons, but when in menys or race i dont get any input from it. Cant do anything really.
And just now i had to remap all the buttons to make it work, but cant get the steering to activate.

Anyone have any ideas of how to get it to work. Yesterday i thought i had to start g-hub before the game, and that worked so i thought i solved it. But cant get it running now.
 
G HUB should always be running in the background (in the systray) but it doesn't need to be opened for things to work. First thing to try is reinstalling G HUB (just re-run the installer and choose the reinstall option). It's also worth checking in other titles to see if the same issues are occurring there.
 
You mentioned Pure SIM Gloves. Are those the right one: PURE SimGear Sim Racing Glove Pro which cost 25€?
How to they look ( gloves ) after 10months of usage? Are they thin enought so your hands dont sweat but at the same time enough of grip?

I do have own motocross / cycling gloves. They are good for driving, they are thin and my hands dont sweat. But after 2months of usage they dont look very well.


They look like new, no signs of wear. They are thiker than the Logitech one but they are better for long sessions with strong ( half the tourge of the wheel power). They are not sweating my heands more than Logitech one.

I put them in the washing machine no problems, same as ligitech one.
 
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Not sure if this has been mentioned here before but anyone else experiencing a ticking/clicking sounds coming from the G Pro? It sounded as though it was coming from the shaft of the wheel and not the base itself. As you hear the clicking sound the wheel is also moving with the sound. Is that a problem or is that normal? This is the second time I noticed this and I've only been using it for about an hour and a half. I noticed it started as soon as I turn off GT7.
 
I just saw that, but I'd rather want to wait for an official GT3/F1 wheel from logitech. Not in a hurry, I can wait as much as it's needed. The default one is doing its job perfectly fine.

This just doesn't look like future proof and looks like all those 3party g29 wheel mods to me - cheap and plastic.
 
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I just saw that, but I'd rather want to wait for an official GT3/F1 wheel from logitech. Not in a hurry, I can wait as much as it's needed. The default one is doing its job perfectly fine.

This just doesn't look like future proof and looks like all those 3party g29 wheel mods to me - cheap and plastic.
If they ever release one! No confirmation is given that they are working on a rim
 
I just can't see them having a booth at the ADAC sim racing expo still showing off the same wheel base and rim that were on display there in 2022.
I think they will need to plug the need handbrakes and shifter into something to show them off
 
If they ever release one! No confirmation is given that they are working on a rim

Having a base with a detachable wheel is enough confirmation for me that there will be in the future. What I'm not sure is am I going to buy it, the default one is already perfect for me.

Yeah, for all those inpatient simracers.... there are plenty of other brands that offers quite big variety of wheels.

Anyone here playing ACC trying to match virtual and real wheel with a proper wheel soft lock?

Looks like only in ACC 1080 and in the base at 800 ( for example Porsche 992 GT3 R) works properly, but you need to do that for each car. 1080/1080 doesn't work properly. It works but up to a point. Practically there is no soft lock. The virtual wheel stop rotation at 800 (400) but the real wheel continues to rotate up to 1080 (540). It's strange for me but....

And ACC on PS5 is a another story that I recently left behinde coz it just does not work properly. Each time I start the game it resets my wheel base to 900 so each time I need to manually adjust, which is unacceptable for me for something that is supposed to be the proper SIM for consoles, but only proves that the GT is, an always will be the best racing game on PS5.

I've read in CDA discord that 900/900 should properly soft lock the wheel automatically for each car without the need to switch profiles and settings for every car. Im about to test this and, I hope it works properly coz it's annoying.

Edit
I've tested and 900/900 and doesn't work with G Pro Wheel in ACC for automatically soft lock to different in-game cars.
 
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Still 6 Nm max?
The G Pro is capped at 70% in GT7, which is 7.7nm. You can get a drivehub if you want the full 11nm torque. I love the drivehub, the difference between 7.7 and 11nm torque is a very big difference.

Interesting side point. The new Fanatec DD + extreme is capped at 83% or 12.45nm torque in GT7. 12nm torque is still very nice but wish PD would remove the cap and give the player the full 15nm that they advertise.
 
The G Pro is capped at 70% in GT7, which is 7.7nm. You can get a drivehub if you want the full 11nm torque. I love the drivehub, the difference between 7.7 and 11nm torque is a very big difference.

Interesting side point. The new Fanatec DD + extreme is capped at 83% or 12.45nm torque in GT7. 12nm torque is still very nice but wish PD would remove the cap and give the player the full 15nm that they advertise.

Clearly I have missed something, been off the forum for a few months now. I have been using my Pro in compatibility mode just to get around that ridiculous nm cap, is the drive hub some new product that will finally let me run it in pro mode again???
 
Clearly I have missed something, been off the forum for a few months now. I have been using my Pro in compatibility mode just to get around that ridiculous nm cap, is the drive hub some new product that will finally let me run it in pro mode again???
It's not a new product but a newer firmware, beta 13 and newer has a boost mode feature that will increase the torque up to 150% from the cap in 10% intervals. You can run your wheel in pro mode with the drivehub to get the full 11nm torque.
 

Website is rather outdated but that's where you can order it from. Use code gtplanet10 for a 10% discount.

Drivehub will also allow you to use other shifters and handbrakes. I'm using a Thrustmaster TH8S on mine.
 

Website is rather outdated but that's where you can order it from. Use code gtplanet10 for a 10% discount.

Drivehub will also allow you to use other shifters and handbrakes. I'm using a Thrustmaster TH8S on mine.
Whelp…. **** guess there goes a couple hundred dollars. Guessing this works perfectly fine on PS5, that site is a little poop.
 
Whelp…. **** guess there goes a couple hundred dollars. Guessing this works perfectly fine on PS5, that site is a little poop.
Yeah the site sucks but the Dev is active in the drivehub thread and he's very helpful.

It works great on the PS5... You will need to plug your wheel into the controller slot instead of the wheel slot since you have a PS5 version of the wheel. I've been using it for a few months now and love it.
 
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Here is a link to the drivehub thread:


There are instructions to activate the boost mode in one of the last pages of that thread.
 
Here is a link to the drivehub thread:


There are instructions to activate the boost mode in one of the last pages of that thread.
kick ass
 
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@morfei1 ACC doesn't use the soft lock for some reason. For PS5 the way to get around the 1:1 matching issue is to leave the angle at 900 and adjust the steering scale to 84% - that then gets you 1:1 matching with every car (but still no soft lock).
 
@morfei1 ACC doesn't use the soft lock for some reason. For PS5 the way to get around the 1:1 matching issue is to leave the angle at 900 and adjust the steering scale to 84% - that then gets you 1:1 matching with every car (but still no soft lock).

I left ACC on PS5 behind.... no worth it for me. I found a way to set it properly there but the real problem for me is the game reset the base to 900 every time I start the game.

Because I drive with steering wheel visible, but even without visible wheel, the proper rotation is important for me. Well, of course you can get used to the wrong rotation, even if it's not properly aligned with a little bit of practice same as FOV and every other settings, it's a video game but at the end we spend all that money to be as close as possible to the reality.

IMHO, If you are an owner of G Pro Wheel playing ACC on PC and you would like to do things properly because of realism or any other reason you have, the only proper way to achieve this I found out so far is by setting in-game to 1080 rotation and your wheel base to what your current car use in real life for example most Porsches use 800, Porsche Cup uses 540 and so on and so forth.

This way, when you turn your wheel full right or left it will stop at 450 each direction and will be aligned with your virtual wheel, this letting you get used to the real steering rotation of the car.
 
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