Project Cars Tuning Guides: Case Studies and part 3f now live!

  • Thread starter Willfred_1
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Johnnypenso
I would simplify the LSD Accel setting to say that this Accel setting determines which wheel breaks traction first under hard acceleration. Low LSD breaks the inside wheel first and is safer but you may lose some acceleration out of the corner and overheat the inside tire. High LSD breaks the outside wheel first and can lead to oversteer and loss of control. Ideally you want to find the point where both wheels break at the same time to maximize control and acceleration.
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That will be covered soon.
 
Johnnypenso
I would simplify the LSD Accel setting to say that this Accel setting determines which wheel breaks traction first under hard acceleration. Low LSD breaks the inside wheel first and is safer but you may lose some acceleration out of the corner and overheat the inside tire. High LSD breaks the outside wheel first and can lead to oversteer and loss of control. Ideally you want to find the point where both wheels break at the same time to maximize control and acceleration.
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Hey Johnny, please explain me why your description is "simplified" compared to mine. :P
 
Hi Wilfred! Great effort there, you have done a lot of work for these video guides no doubt.
But in my opinion a simple text version of a guide would serve the community best because a printable guide sheet could be read anytime in test sessions. A video is always more difficult to re-check.
 
@Willfred_1
I'm not criticizing just trying to help.

Not sure how advanced you want to get with these videos, but would you consider adding in the written document that moving weight backward only creates oversteer when your braking and turning, while moving it forward increases oversteer on turn in since you aren't braking anymore and weight has starting shifting rearward and outward.
 
ozwheels
@Willfred_1
I'm not criticizing just trying to help.

Not sure how advanced you want to get with these videos, but would you consider adding in the written document that moving weight backward only creates oversteer when your braking and turning, while moving it forward increases oversteer on turn in since you aren't braking anymore and weight has starting shifting rearward and outward.
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The parts starting 2 x are simple sections with a basic amount of theory. These are for those that haven't ever done any tuning and would like to learn. Part 3 will be the more advanced stuff with more of the theory behind it. After that if there interest will do another level which will look at tuning a car for a track at a more advanced level than part 3.
the scripts for part 3 are now being worked on. Both me and my friend are quite busy this week as it project cars Launch and were in last week or so of university. But the word formats will be uploaded next week most likely.
 
Willfred_1
The parts starting 2 x are simple sections with a basic amount of theory. These are for those that haven't ever done any tuning and would like to learn. Part 3 will be the more advanced stuff with more of the theory behind it. After that if there interest will do another level which will look at tuning a car for a track at a more advanced level than part 3.
the scripts for part 3 are now being worked on. Both me and my friend are quite busy this week as it project cars Launch and were in last week or so of university. But the word formats will be uploaded next week most likely.
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Once again, thank you for your efforts. Even as an experienced "Sim Tuner", I am finding the info very helpful. It's always beneficial to get someone else's spin on things. Great work, and I am looking forward to the "more advanced" level as well as the text document.
 
Willfred_1
The parts starting 2 x are simple sections with a basic amount of theory. ... the word formats will be uploaded next week most likely.
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Thanks Willfred for all of your hard work. I would love the written notes as well.

I do have a smartphone and a tablet and a PC so that I can watch and rewatch the videos over and over again (which I will), but not while I am sat in my race chair and want to make some small adjustment.

I guess your channel is going to attract many more followers over the next few weeks
 
F1Racer68
Once again, thank you for your efforts. Even as an experienced "Sim Tuner", I am finding the info very helpful. It's always beneficial to get someone else's spin on things. Great work, and I am looking forward to the "more advanced" level as well as the text document.
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I and my friend felt that it was something that was needed. Especially as It became apparent that many people were intimidated by the vast array of tunning options.

Brit999
Thanks Willfred for all of your hard work. I would love the written notes as well.

I do have a smartphone and a tablet and a PC so that I can watch and rewatch the videos over and over again (which I will), but not while I am sat in my race chair and want to make some small adjustment.

I guess your channel is going to attract many more followers over the next few weeks
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Thankyou

Part 2c is now up
 
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A great gesture to try and help inexperienced tuners in this way.

The explanations are very good but I think it would be easier for the novice to follow the dialogue and absorb the advice if the visuals better reflect what the commentator is discussing.

For instance, when talking about brake bias the video shows someone adjusting tyre pressures. If I didn't already know a bit about the topic I think I'd have been left somewhat confused.

Kudos for putting the time and effort into this, I'm sure it will be useful for many people
 
rams1de
A great gesture to try and help inexperienced tuners in this way.

The explanations are very good but I think it would be easier for the novice to follow the dialogue and absorb the advice if the visuals better reflect what the commentator is discussing.

For instance, when talking about brake bias the video shows someone adjusting tyre pressures. If I didn't already know a bit about the topic I think I'd have been left somewhat confused.

Kudos for putting the time and effort into this, I'm sure it will be useful for many people
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i had pre recorded all the footage in two batches however the the second was rendered unusable due my recorder buggin out. so the rest of part 2 sections will use the footage i have on my hdd. Part 3 will have the specific footage for each topic, as i haven't recorded that yet. Recording for part 3 will occur on friday. but thankyou for the feedback.
 
Some great info and links already 👍

I'll use the one good thing that came out of GT5; the Apex tuning guide. Anything beyond that and I'll check out the info posted here (not sure what to expect for tuning tbh).


Jerome
 
Jump_Ace
Some great info and links already 👍

I'll use the one good thing that came out of GT5; the Apex tuning guide. Anything beyond that and I'll check out the info posted here (not sure what to expect for tuning tbh).


Jerome
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Just remember that it probably doesn't cover all of the options available in Project CARS.

As an example, GT5/6 had a simplified Damper system rather than the real world system of FAST and SLOW bump (compression) and rebound (extension). They also simplified other areas, so while the Apex and Beyond the Apex guides do help, they don't completely translate.
 
Melony
I know maybe Im in the wrong game, but could somebody make a drift setup?
I know its possible but its so hard to do.
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Reply it's entirely possible. You will have a road though. You'll want to increase the rear tyre pressures, decrease camber, rais the rear height and stiffen the rear anti roll bar, the spring rates and maybe the slow bump and rebound portion of the dampers.

I would also move brake pressure to the front and the weight if possible.
 
Willfred_1
Reply it's entirely possible. You will have a road though. You'll want to increase the rear tyre pressures, decrease camber, rais the rear height and stiffen the rear anti roll bar, the spring rates and maybe the slow bump and rebound portion of the dampers.

I would also move brake pressure to the front and the weight if possible.
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thanks alot
 
Wilfred, would you say 85-95 degrees Celsius is the ideal for a normal tyre on a Ford Focus RS?

I currently have 105-110 degrees iFor front tyres (causing them to slide) and only 55-60 degrees on the rear (not much grip). Apart from my driving style is it better to lower the front tyre pressure a lot (seen 1.65 - 1.75) and increase rear tyre pressure (it's 2.1 right now)?

Others feel free to jump in as well.

Thanks a lot for the videos and the written guides posted here, great stuff guys

Andreas
 
A4XRBJ1
Wilfred, would you say 85-95 degrees Celsius is the ideal for a normal tyre on a Ford Focus RS?

I currently have 105-110 degrees iFor front tyres (causing them to slide) and only 55-60 degrees on the rear (not much grip). Apart from my driving style is it better to lower the front tyre pressure a lot (seen 1.65 - 1.75) and increase rear tyre pressure (it's 2.1 right now)?

Others feel free to jump in as well.

Thanks a lot for the videos and the written guides posted here, great stuff guys

Andreas
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that quite warm. i think what you've done is slightly overinflate the tyres so drop the pressures. on most tyres i aim to get from 80 to 95, once they hit 100 they will start to overheat causing you to loose grip. The trouble with raising them is again you can over inflate them, so i would have a fiddle with the rear suspension stiffness to see if you can get the rears working more. i also found with the clio cornering with part throttle helped in some cases.so give the partial throttle a go.
 
thanks willfred very helpful. I will be referring back to this set of videos often. (BTW IMO a table would be very useful for quick reference of general info of functions and recommended remedies of popular issues)
 

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