The Gear Trick
- Thread starter boombexus
- 43 comments
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- 371
- Wild_Cobra_Z28
I believe this Transmission trick works in GT3, but not GT4. I have always used this method to set tighter ratios in GT3. When I first started Gt4, I didn't notice any spacing changes. The ratios, when calculated with the final, appeared to stay the same when setting the same top speed.
Anyway now that some of you say it works, I will actually break out a calculator... But... I think the 'bug' in GT3 was fixed in GT4!
Anyway now that some of you say it works, I will actually break out a calculator... But... I think the 'bug' in GT3 was fixed in GT4!
- 23,800
- Philippines
Wild Cobra Z28
It's not fixed, and it actually works. If you fiddle around with final drive ratio and auto-set a lot, you can end at the same set (same in-gear ratios, final ratios, and auto-sets) with different available gear-ratios and spacing.
I'm currently trying to replicate stock gear settings in GT, and a variation on the tranny trick is the only way to space out or condense the gears so it'll work right.
- 754
- Madison, WI
It is a heel and toe. A heel and toe is defined as using the heel on the brake, and tapping the gas with your toes to rev-match. This allows you to slow down smoother and slightly faster because of engine braking, and also prevents the possibility of the drive wheels locking up.
More importantly, (but not visible in-game) is the fact that it is easier on your drivetrain. The clutch pressure plate doesn't have to match the wheels at the same speed as the engine when the pressure plate reconnects with the flywheel. With a heel-toe, you do job.
More importantly, (but not visible in-game) is the fact that it is easier on your drivetrain. The clutch pressure plate doesn't have to match the wheels at the same speed as the engine when the pressure plate reconnects with the flywheel. With a heel-toe, you do job.
- 2,604
- Banbaria.
- GTP_Venari
Hmmm... no.
The whole point of heel-and-toe is to match the output revs of the engine to the revs driving the input shaft of the gearbox in the gear you're about to select. When you drop the clutch, there is a minimal speed difference between the shafts and the transmission/clutch shock is reduced.
Do it right, and you wouldn't need the clutch either, something my old Nova SR (begrudgingly) became used to.
Engine braking is still used once that clutch is dropped, however.
The whole point of heel-and-toe is to match the output revs of the engine to the revs driving the input shaft of the gearbox in the gear you're about to select. When you drop the clutch, there is a minimal speed difference between the shafts and the transmission/clutch shock is reduced.
Do it right, and you wouldn't need the clutch either, something my old Nova SR (begrudgingly) became used to.
Engine braking is still used once that clutch is dropped, however.
SportWagon
Premium
- 1,822
- Punkeydoodles Corners, Ontario, Canada. (aka GT2t
In real-life, one way to heel-and-toe (assuming clutch/brake/accelerator pedal order) is to slide your brake foot over so you can depress the accelerator with the outside of your foot (the part just behind your little toe).
As far as the tranny trick goes. If it works, it basically suggests that auto-set is not done properly. I would think you want to adjust first gear (effective first gear, ie. multiplied by final drive) to be low enough, and top gear to be high enough, and spread the others out in between so that shifting is smooth. That's what you'd expect "auto-set" to do for you.
But I guess in practice you're better to keep the box ratios assigned in the lowest-possible auto set, and then raise, by increasing final drive, effective first as well as effective top (as well as all in between) when attempting to go for a higher top speed. In theory that should cause you to have difficulty getting going from stop in first gear, but I guess in practice that doesn't matter.
Assuming the trick isn't really a trick--that is, the game isn't actually doing anything "wrong" in its gear calculations--I would think a refinement might be to always move individual gears to the right, closer to top, after a setting? That would raise first, but compress the distance between the other gears, perhaps making for better acceleration at high speeds. There's a shape to the curve formed by the bottom of all the shown lines which tends to be optimal.
If the game recalculated other gears when you changed final drive, that would be really annoying. (E.g. for people trying to replicate real-life gearing). What is vague, of course, is how the ranges for each gear are changed, and why they are restricted at all (except that ratios should progress properly; 2nd should always be a higher gear than first (a lower number), etc.). (On the other hand, to be realistic, your gearing should be restricted by feasibility of cog combinations required). Even in [size=+1]GT4[/size], however, one wonders how realistic at all the power curves are, beyond approximating peak torque at rpms and peak power at rpms.
Oh, for [size=+1]GT1[/size], and its calibrated gear charts.
But the torque curves in [size=+1]GT1[/size] were noticeably exaggerated. (Often torque dropped off so sharply that peak torque and power were given at the same rpm--something that doesn't happen in real life). That helps allow proper feedback for using MT in the game, I think. With a more realistic torque curve, the signs of over-revving wouldn't occur so soon or be so obvious.
(In [size=+1]GT1[/size] it was very important to keep effective first gear (first gear times final drive) low enough ( a big enough number--that product is actually the number of engine revolutions required to produce one wheel revolution) for many turbo cars, because turbo-lag was modelled in an extremely exaggerated fashion. If you thought you might spin out, accelerating from stop became an issue (though the handbrake helped, since it would cause the model to declutch, reliably for FR and MR, less so for drive trains with front wheels powered, allowing you to "pop" the clutch for a burst start). )
As far as the tranny trick goes. If it works, it basically suggests that auto-set is not done properly. I would think you want to adjust first gear (effective first gear, ie. multiplied by final drive) to be low enough, and top gear to be high enough, and spread the others out in between so that shifting is smooth. That's what you'd expect "auto-set" to do for you.
But I guess in practice you're better to keep the box ratios assigned in the lowest-possible auto set, and then raise, by increasing final drive, effective first as well as effective top (as well as all in between) when attempting to go for a higher top speed. In theory that should cause you to have difficulty getting going from stop in first gear, but I guess in practice that doesn't matter.
Assuming the trick isn't really a trick--that is, the game isn't actually doing anything "wrong" in its gear calculations--I would think a refinement might be to always move individual gears to the right, closer to top, after a setting? That would raise first, but compress the distance between the other gears, perhaps making for better acceleration at high speeds. There's a shape to the curve formed by the bottom of all the shown lines which tends to be optimal.
If the game recalculated other gears when you changed final drive, that would be really annoying. (E.g. for people trying to replicate real-life gearing). What is vague, of course, is how the ranges for each gear are changed, and why they are restricted at all (except that ratios should progress properly; 2nd should always be a higher gear than first (a lower number), etc.). (On the other hand, to be realistic, your gearing should be restricted by feasibility of cog combinations required). Even in [size=+1]GT4[/size], however, one wonders how realistic at all the power curves are, beyond approximating peak torque at rpms and peak power at rpms.
Oh, for [size=+1]GT1[/size], and its calibrated gear charts.
But the torque curves in [size=+1]GT1[/size] were noticeably exaggerated. (Often torque dropped off so sharply that peak torque and power were given at the same rpm--something that doesn't happen in real life). That helps allow proper feedback for using MT in the game, I think. With a more realistic torque curve, the signs of over-revving wouldn't occur so soon or be so obvious.
(In [size=+1]GT1[/size] it was very important to keep effective first gear (first gear times final drive) low enough ( a big enough number--that product is actually the number of engine revolutions required to produce one wheel revolution) for many turbo cars, because turbo-lag was modelled in an extremely exaggerated fashion. If you thought you might spin out, accelerating from stop became an issue (though the handbrake helped, since it would cause the model to declutch, reliably for FR and MR, less so for drive trains with front wheels powered, allowing you to "pop" the clutch for a burst start). )
