◆ SNAIL [Spec] Racing - Currently Recruiting for GT7 - JOIN TODAY!!Open 

  • Thread starter zer05ive
  • 147,696 comments
  • 7,958,741 views
Schmiggz
Oshawa, another thing i would love to do would be a "classic" league.
Cars from 1965 to 1979, tuned to a limited pp and every racer would register 1 car and use that 1 car throughout the whole championship.
Oh.... and would be "sedans" only
Click to expand...

That's a good idea!!
 
toyotaracing75
I would like to join snail spec racing- what do i need to do?
Click to expand...

Hey Toyotaracing. Skills will be along with the official welcome post shortly, in the mean time, follow this
1. You run the Time Trial. (NOTE: The tires selected for this have more grip than our current tire regulations allow, but please follow the directions exactly anyways).
2. You PM kcheeb with your time from the time trial (no Sunday racing until this is completed).
And read this S.N.A.I.L. OLR
 
Alright Rally I did a little research regarding the 944 ls1 swap. A dry 944 motor weighs 366 lbs and a dry ls1 weighs 409 lbs. Add in the weight of the turbo (around 20 lbs) and it's even closer than you'd think. You use the 944 transaxle, torque tube, and everything so there's nearly no weight gained at all.
 
Rallywagon
Hey Toyotaracing. Skills will be along with the official welcome post shortly, in the mean time, follow this
1. You run the Time Trial. (NOTE: The tires selected for this have more grip than our current tire regulations allow, but please follow the directions exactly anyways).
2. You PM kcheeb with your time from the time trial (no Sunday racing until this is completed).
And read this S.N.A.I.L. OLR
Click to expand...

ok, i sent message to kcheeb
 
toyotaracing75
I would like to join snail spec racing- what do i need to do?
Click to expand...

toyotaracing75,

Thanks for your interest!
We would love to have you in the league. Here's what you need to know and do in order to join:

We run a clean league by enforcing a strict penalty system based on the S.N.A.I.L. OLR (which is a modified version of the GTP OLR). We also expect all of our drivers to know and follow The Good Racecraft Guide.
Please become versed in both if you aren't already. Once that is complete, please follow the steps below to complete your entry into the league:

1. You run the Time Trial. (NOTE: The tires selected for this have more grip than our current tire regulations allow, but please follow the directions exactly anyways).
2. You PM kcheeb with your time from the time trial (no Sunday racing until this is completed).
3. We assign you to the division that we feel will give you the closest competition. kcheeb will add you to the drivers list.
4. We send you a you a PSN friend request from the corresponding SNAIL_Division1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 account. That PSN account's lounge is where you will race on Sunday night.
5. You drive fast and clean on Sunday 👍

The original post has everything you need to know about what to expect on Sunday night and what you will need to have completed in order to be competitive. If you have any questions, please feel free to post your question on the thread.

Please note that we often race DLC from three add-on packs:

Racing Car Pack
Course Pack
Twin Ring Motegi Pack

If you don't have these add-on packs, you will need to sit out the races in which they are used.

If you have a preference for car/wheel colour and racing number, please follow the instruction contained here.
To avoid duplication, the currently claimed combinations can be found here.

During the week we run a number of different events, we encourage all SNAILs to join as many as possible.

Welcome to S.N.A.I.L. :cheers:
 
Rally? That was Joe that was debating the engine weight thing. However, a turbo alone weighs about 10 pounds, and, as Joe pointed out, if in your swap, you swap out the stock Porsche trans with one for the LSwhatever, you move a whole lot of weight out of the back and move a whole lot up more up front. Completely ruining the original weight distribution. But, Joe, fixing that is as easy as tuning the suspension and some lightening and component moving.
Now, I would like to argue the reliability issue. An engine that is not properly built, be it NA, boosted, sprayed, piston, rotary, V8, I4, what have you, is going to be less reliable. However, when an engine is properly built, and its supporting components, I don't think reliability will suffer all that much. Perhaps it's a bit of a poor example but take a 3rd gen rx7. Swap out the twin turbo set up for a single, and add a turbo timer. Upgrade and you will actually add life to the engine. Add an oil cooler, aluminum rad and move the intercooler up front, and you can add far more life to the engine. Another example. My buddy has a wrx wagon. has something close to 200k, he's been running an STi turbo, maxing out around 24 lbs and using a cobb tuner. Still running strong. Although, he did go through a few transmissions before moving up to STi components.
The reliability lies more in how thorough someone builds an engine, its oiling system, cooling system and supporting mods.
 
Rallywagon
Rally? That was Joe that was debating the engine weight thing. However, a turbo alone weighs about 10 pounds, and, as Joe pointed out, if in your swap, you swap out the stock Porsche trans with one for the LSwhatever, you move a whole lot of weight out of the back and move a whole lot up more up front. Completely ruining the original weight distribution. But, Joe, fixing that is as easy as tuning the suspension and some lightening and component moving.
Now, I would like to argue the reliability issue. An engine that is not properly built, be it NA, boosted, sprayed, piston, rotary, V8, I4, what have you, is going to be less reliable. However, when an engine is properly built, and its supporting components, I don't think reliability will suffer all that much. Perhaps it's a bit of a poor example but take a 3rd gen rx7. Swap out the twin turbo set up for a single, and add a turbo timer. Upgrade and you will actually add life to the engine. Add an oil cooler, aluminum rad and move the intercooler up front, and you can add far more life to the engine. Another example. My buddy has a wrx wagon. has something close to 200k, he's been running an STi turbo, maxing out around 24 lbs and using a cobb tuner. Still running strong. Although, he did go through a few transmissions before moving up to STi components.
The reliability lies more in how thorough someone builds an engine, its oiling system, cooling system and supporting mods.
Click to expand...

Sorry my bad. I got lazy and forgot to double check who I was talking to. One thing you missed though is you use the 944 everything. The only thing you swap is the motor and wiring harness. 944 transmission stays and works quite nicely as long as you don't dump the clutch. My friend tells me the weight distribution stays spot on because the motor mounts in lower and a little farther back; actually fits in better than the Porsche motor.

I do agree with your reliability argument. IMO three type of motor almost doesn't matter at all as long as you take care of it. Turbo, rotary, n/a, v, straight, flat, steam; just maintain it and it'll love you forever.

A little off topic, but I find it funny that the video game forum I'm on has more accurate information and better ability to back opinions than the car forum I'm on.
 
In Portugal, as in a lot of places in the world for sure, there's a fantastic classic car league that started around 15 years ago and has been growing and getting more and more serious as it became fully professional a couple of years ago.
The video below is regarding the race event took place in my Hometown Porto early July 2013, unfortunately 1 week before my arrival for vacation and shows some of the action with the magnificent machines that take part on that championship.
I think that, in a way of keeping bringing new stuff to this awesome snail community, we could think of organizing parallel league just for the old beauties that are part of this beautiful game.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHQFVP0FWaU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RpW9uO_fcc
 
schmiggz
in portugal, as in a lot of places in the world for sure, there's a fantastic classic car league that started around 15 years ago and has been growing and getting more and more serious as it became fully professional a couple of years ago.
The video below is regarding the race event took place in my hometown porto early july 2013, unfortunately 1 week before my arrival for vacation and shows some of the action with the magnificent machines that take part on that championship.
I think that, in a way of keeping bringing new stuff to this awesome snail community, we could think of organizing parallel league just for the old beauties that are part of this beautiful game.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhqfvp0fwau

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rpw9uo_fcc
Click to expand...

+1
 
Rallywagon
Now, I would like to argue the reliability issue. An engine that is not properly built, be it NA, boosted, sprayed, piston, rotary, V8, I4, what have you, is going to be less reliable. However, when an engine is properly built, and its supporting components, I don't think reliability will suffer all that much. Perhaps it's a bit of a poor example but take a 3rd gen rx7. Swap out the twin turbo set up for a single, and add a turbo timer. Upgrade and you will actually add life to the engine. Add an oil cooler, aluminum rad and move the intercooler up front, and you can add far more life to the engine. Another example. My buddy has a wrx wagon. has something close to 200k, he's been running an STi turbo, maxing out around 24 lbs and using a cobb tuner. Still running strong. Although, he did go through a few transmissions before moving up to STi components.
The reliability lies more in how thorough someone builds an engine, its oiling system, cooling system and supporting mods.
Click to expand...

What I am saying is there was some sort of comparison being made between large displacement and small displacement w/turbo. To get similar performance out of a small displacement turbo engine there needs to be significant internal strengthening to keep it from exploding within a hundred miles...and I still say a normally aspirated engine will always last longer than a turbo engine no matter what strengthening is done. You can't just throw a larger turbo on it (or turn up the boost) and think all is well. There are just more things to go wrong in a turbo setup...especially when you start adding on all the aftermarket things to keep it going properly.

A rotary engine is even more problematic. You can't throw a ton of boost on a rotary and expect the rotary seals to last forever. A candle that burns twice as bright lasts half as long ;) Light and powerful, yes. But durable? Not really. I loved my RX7 Turbo and I never had a problem with it but I know it was just a matter of time the way I was driving it. There are guys tuning the piss out RX7's nowadays that are extremely knowledgeable but they will tell that they are not the best daily driver or "only" car.

Think about this...if you were going drive 10000 miles across a large expanse and absolutely could not get stranded for fear of dying ;) ...and you had to choose from your basic stock 465hp 2014 Stingray (insert your choice of large v8 automobile) or an extremely aftermarket tuned turbo 4cylinder (choose a brand). Which do you think would have the best chance of making it without mechanical failure?

If my life depended on it for a long haul, I would drive a normally aspirated car every time.
 
Boost elevates cylinder pressure with puts added stress on crank, rods, bearings....

The boosted cars run at higher boost also risk detonation and if they get it. It goes bad quickly. Melted pistons, broken rings, slid head gaskets.

You are correct a normal reving NA motor will live a long time. Big cubes making moderate power live forever basically.

These small engines like the 4G63 is much more efficient then say many pushrod engines. This efficiency helps them live and make power with higher boost.


Lots don't realize that like 8 pounds of boost on an LS1 is like 18 on a 4G63 in stress levels.

However a properly tuned and maintained boosted engine will live too.

Per example. Semi trucks are boosted. Many diesels road trucks are boosted. They last many miles. These do have HD internals though. Not efficient so to speak but stout.

It's about the tune and boost levels in the end.

A NA engine has a linear pull in its rev that isn't found in turbo boosted cars. This is a very unique feeling for those that haven't experienced it. I highly recommend getting chance to drive 400+ cubes making over 500hp. Mmmm just awesome.

Now the roots/twin screw aka positive displacement superchargers make some amazing low end TQ. Instant power!!!

Another example to think about. Nitrous cars. Nitrous male ridiculous TQ and does so instantly. This why you don't spray a car below 3k RPM's. having the ending spinning up before the TQ hit comes in allows it to absorb this hit. If you sprayed off idle you would over load the crank, rods, bearings and see something break.

In the end. It's all about a safe tune, safe rpm's and if boosted, safe boost to keep any engine alive.

For street cars. Getting TQ down low makes for a much more fun car.

For racing. An engine the makes its power up high and has its power under the curve located in the upper revs will perform better.
 
Might join you guys tonight after my hiatus due to GTA lol. Would be nice to do some actual racing instead of the same track lap after lap by myself. Currently sitting pretty in 13th.
 
bandit0627
Damn some of you have some good b-spec drivers!!! Pyxens driver I. Snow gave my driver a run for his money the whole race and were never 5 seconds apart! And on top of that we ended up 20 seconds ahead of everyone else!!! Take a look!
Click to expand...

That's mah boy "I"! I've taught him everything I know... he got good all by himself :P
 
I'm talking about the instances where people are trying to compare something like a stock Vette with a heavily modded small engined car in order to achieve similar results.

Large diesel engines designed around a turbo is a different matter altogether :)

I was trying to compare the relative longevity of a Civic etc tuned to 450hp and a new Vette etc.
 
joew
i'm talking about the instances where people are trying to compare something like a stock vette with a heavily modded small engined car in order to achieve similar results.

Large diesel engines designed around a turbo is a different matter altogether :)

i was trying to compare the relative longevity of a civic etc tuned to 450hp and a new vette etc.
Click to expand...

lsx > *

;)
 
JoeW
I'm talking about the instances where people are trying to compare something like a stock Vette with a heavily modded small engined car in order to achieve similar results.

Large diesel engines designed around a turbo is a different matter altogether :)

I was trying to compare the relative longevity of a Civic etc tuned to 450hp and a new Vette etc.
Click to expand...

How about an audi 1.8t VAG then? They are used in a number of audi ave vw cars and make a wide range of horsepower. Same could be said of a number of v6 engines, such as the type amg builds for mercedes. And you wouldn't be fooling me if you told me that the engine in that vette was some run of the mill parts bin motor. All 3 of the big 3 were doing some serious work to their higher end engines.

Btw, in d3 turning some practice
 
What are you guys using as a reference point to turn in on turn two on Madrid Mini Reverse? I either turn in too soon and hit the wall or too late and slam the barrier on corner exit.
 
qwietstorm
What are you guys using as a reference point to turn in on turn two on Madrid Mini Reverse? I either turn in too soon and hit the wall or too late and slam the barrier on corner exit.
Click to expand...

The left Curb I brake hard then trail in and try and catch right front on the point of inside curb start feeding gas and then roll into full throttle.

Run several 1:01.3's now
 
Well now that hell month is over I hope to be back on the grid in the next few weeks. I'll be hotel jumping for the next 2 weeks so probably will miss those. It'll be nice to get back to racing verses that annoying repetition of the same lap. Looks like I finished in 51st which while it's better than last year it's still a bummer since I doubt there's 20 people who are ineligible. At least there's a few SNAILs going and hopefully winning this year.

Kinda wish I could join you guys tonight but I don't have any of the cars and have my saved game on my old ps3. Probably best if I skip tonight so I don't get in anyone's way. Miss racing you guys though.
 
You won't get 300k miles from a 1.8T Audi engine tuned for 400+ hp.

I think you are missing my point. I'm not talking about how much performance can be obtained from certain engines. I'm pointing to the people who say that a 1.8T VAG tuned to 450hp (from a stock 180hp) is "better" than a large cube engine that has 450hp stock. Yes they now have equal power but longevity is a serious issue that wasn't talked about.

Manufacturers generally don't put engines (in mass produced road cars) on the market that won't last. So, while the new Vette may not be exactly regular "parts bin" assembled, it is tuned mildly enough that GM feels safe to warranty the vehicle for x miles/years. Same goes for any standard highly mass produced car.

Now Mitsubishi would never put a 4G63 engine into a production vehicle tuned to 450hp. Why? It was not designed to safely produce that much power over a long period of time without extremely costly modifications to the engine internals. Could one be modified to throw down 450hp? Of course. Would it last as long as the aforementioned GM engine? Highly unlikely.

A Honda 1.6 would last probably 200k miles at its stock output. And Honda warranties it for many years. But they would not push 400hp out of the same engine and warranty it for the same time.
 

Latest Posts

Back