Trouble with Indy 500... (Pls don't suggest to use X2010)

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PowderGuy
Guys, I got trouble with Indy 500.
Yesterday, I riding R10 TDI Stealth run 130 laps and I were 12th...

My main problems in this race are "Tyres life time" and "AIs pit windows".

I using Soft tyres were 44 sec laps in average, but only can run 30 laps

So that I tried to switch Hard tyres for longer life time. Using same driving style, that were 50 sec laps in average and run only 18 laps. :sick:

AI pit windows I found every 40 to 45 laps ...

Does anyone can suggest me a better solution to saving tyres life times?
Also, I wanna understand the tyres characteristic of each Racing Tyre set. Could anyone explain it? (GT5 tyres seems different from old day concepts...)
 
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Try to do only 25laps per stint (1/2 gas tank) with racing softs.
If you empty the gas tank you will stay at least for 3 laps in the pit (about 2mins)
And try to get down to 42sec laps ;)

raVer
 
If you have fully-tuned your MINOLTA 88C-V then use it. Front tires must be race softs, rear tires must be race mediums. You'll get 42's (or faster), and every time you have a pit stop you still have a few laps to spare.
 
I'm doing the exact same event with the same car. The Racing Softs can do 42's, 41's with a draft. Max downforce. The car is slow on the straights, but much faster in the corners.

You have to run Racing Hards, your stints should run 34 laps. Stopping on 34, 68, 102, 136 and 170, changing to Racing Softs for your last stint. You use approx 70 liters of fuel each stint, so only top up to have 70 liters in your tank. I've tried this twice with this car, first run I finished 6th 2 laps down, second run I finished 3rd 44 seconds behind the leader.

The problem is finding another 40 seconds, as on my strategy the AI pit 1 less time than you overall. And if you go to 35 laps in a stint, your right rear tire blows out/wears down to carcass and that costs you 30 seconds, which has happened to me a couple of times in each race. Its certainly doable, but easier said than done.
 
Is it due to the fact, that you don't like/can't control the X2010 or do you want a challenging race?

If it's just the X2010 you can't handle but want an easy win, you could stick to the FGT which gives you enough spare time to change tyres as often as you like.
 
This is the easiest event to win Just extend the gears so you don't redline on the straights. 249mph works for that. Run soft race tyres and make sure all assistance is off. 41 second laps are very easy to do and you should lap the field somewhere between 15 and 19 laps. Extra pitstops no longer matter at this point. I've yet to find an LMP car that doesn't run away from the AI and win easily.
 
Lion-Face
I'm doing the exact same event with the same car. The Racing Softs can do 42's, 41's with a draft. Max downforce. The car is slow on the straights, but much faster in the corners.

You have to run Racing Hards, your stints should run 34 laps. Stopping on 34, 68, 102, 136 and 170, changing to Racing Softs for your last stint. You use approx 70 liters of fuel each stint, so only top up to have 70 liters in your tank. I've tried this twice with this car, first run I finished 6th 2 laps down, second run I finished 3rd 44 seconds behind the leader.

The problem is finding another 40 seconds, as on my strategy the AI pit 1 less time than you overall. And if you go to 35 laps in a stint, your right rear tire blows out/wears down to carcass and that costs you 30 seconds, which has happened to me a couple of times in each race. Its certainly doable, but easier said than done.
Click to expand...


As I said before , you have to pit every 25 laps (fill 10 litres on 1st pitstop and 55 litres on the other pitstops) to lose not too much time in the pits.

Tired Tyres
This is the easiest event to win Just extend the gears so you don't redline on the straights. 249mph works for that. Run soft race tyres and make sure all assistance is off. 41 second laps are very easy to do and you should lap the field somewhere between 15 and 19 laps. Extra pitstops no longer matter at this point. I've yet to find an LMP car that doesn't run away from the AI and win easily.
Click to expand...

Try it with the R10 (without oilchange on Race Soft) and you will see this isn´t that easy.


Setup for R10 (630 bhp , 925kg , Race Soft , no oilchange)

Aero : 45/67
Top Speed: 255mph
Ride height: -15/-10
Springrate: 14.3/12.8
Dampers ex: 6/8
Dampers co: 6/6
Anti Roll: 3/6
Camber: 2.0/1.0
Toe: 0/0



raVer
 
I'm glad I used the X2010 for Indy 500. I got so bored I just wanted it to be over sooner. :yuck:

It's been said before but FGT and Minolta are your best choices. Maybe consider the 787B or 908 too.
 
balang_479
Minolta in stock form was enough for me, but you need to keep increasing pace.
Click to expand...

I think we are talking about a-spec.

I used maxed minolta and didn't really struggle, but at the same time it wasn't an enjoyable race. I think it's possible with an r10 but it isn't going to be easy by a long shot. Keep us posted.
 
I used a Sauber C9. It needed to pit every every 30 laps too, but it cOuld easily catch up. You might want to use racing hard tires as an alternative also incase you don't want to buy an extra car.
 
There has only ever been one fun B-Spec race to watch and that was, when 3 of my binary idiots... ahem... I mean B-Spec drivers pwned the lot in the Toyota 7. It was in short trousers on the straight as I had to make the gear ratio so long that it couldn't do more than 340 kph without a draft, but they usually had one and in the end won by a whole lap :)

In A-Spec I used the Minolta. Unless the tires are seriously worn, it'll make it round flat-out, no need to lift. The Mazda Furai should work a charm as well, or if you want some challenge, try the Toyota 7.
 
TCSdisable,

First thing to keep in mind is that the R10 is underpowered against the Indy500 field, a good second or two slower than the fastest opponent (Audi R8 '01). That means you have to push hard to keep up while the AI always drives conservatively, which in turn means you'll never be able to match their pit strategy unless you want finish last. :) What you need to do is go faster and just live with only getting 30 laps per stop.

* Most importantly be precise with your line; you need to touch the inside paint every turn and come as close to the wall as you can on every exit, and never lift the throttle.

* Change the gearing so you hit peak power (not redline) just before the end of the start/finish straight. For the R10 this means setting max speed to 400 km/h, you'll then hit peak power (6400rpm) at 353 km/h.

* Max front downforce. (what you do with rear is up to you but I leave it default to avoid understeer).

Do these things and you can win on Racing Medium tires, I just tested and I was doing sub 43 laps which is enough to pull away from the R8 if you can break his draft.

After that the easiest thing to do is raise the front and lower the rear ride height as far as you can. I don't know why this works, but it does. If you don't believe me go and try it a couple of laps, I did 5 laps each with 3 different ride height settings and these were my best lap times and top speeds on the start/finish straight:

Default (0/-10): 42.729s, 354kph
+10/-20: 42.345s, 357kph
+10/-35: 42.207s, 361kph

If that's still not enough, switch to Racing Soft (I never use them, but when I tested I did 41.957s). As for the "other" suspension settings I honestly don't have a clue how to tune them to save tyre wear. I think setting toe to 0 helps.
 
Minolta or one of the Nissans R92 or R89, soft/soft, with max front wing, and not so much rear wing can easily win this.

I think I was in the 38's in the Minolta.
 
dschoene
There has only ever been one fun B-Spec race to watch and that was, when 3 of my binary idiots... ahem... I mean B-Spec drivers pwned the lot in the Toyota 7. It was in short trousers on the straight as I had to make the gear ratio so long that it couldn't do more than 340 kph without a draft, but they usually had one and in the end won by a whole lap :)

In A-Spec I used the Minolta. Unless the tires are seriously worn, it'll make it round flat-out, no need to lift. The Mazda Furai should work a charm as well, or if you want some challenge, try the Toyota 7.
Click to expand...

I have used same TDI stealth to run B-spec, this race I were take 1st in 199 lap (due my Pit error.)

both Spec AI are different patterns, B-spec pit windows are every 30-35 Laps.
 
Make sure the transmission and downforce are tuned properly. Full downforce front and back, and figure out what the max speed should be.
 
USE RACING HARD TYRES! Soft are for 20 or less laps races. but can start with softs, to get advantage and then, in the 1st pit, start using hards.
 
wejhvabewjty
USE RACING HARD TYRES! Soft are for 20 or less laps races. but can start with softs, to get advantage and then, in the 1st pit, start using hards.
Click to expand...
Hards don't last longer, they just have less grip. This in turn means either go slower, or wear tires faster due to more slip in the corners.
 
Guys you didn´t do INDY 500 with the underpowered R10?
I did it and won it already with 1 and a 1/2 lap lead.
If you want to win it easy take a 700+ bhp racecar.
If I could , I would upload the replay but I can´t even export the replaydata because the filesize is too big (around 210 Mb).


raVer
 
I should explain my more of my set up. (Notice I using "R10 TDI Stealth", little bit different from original one)

I equipped Hi-Rev Turbo, Downforce are 35 / 55 ;
Gearing aim as Top speed 430 ;
Suspension Ride Height are -15, -25 , Toe 0.0 and 0.02,Tyre were Soft.

others are default.


Re: yanaran
Thx your suggestion, I will think seriously the front wing angle and apply medium tyre or not.
 
-raVer-
Guys you didn´t do INDY 500 with the underpowered R10?
I did it and won it already with 1 and a 1/2 lap lead.
If you want to win it easy take a 700+ bhp racecar.
If I could , I would upload the replay but I can´t even export the replaydata because the filesize is too big (around 210 Mb).


raVer
Click to expand...

If my aim easy to take, I used X2010 and this thread will no created.
I just want "fairplay" with AIs (Power game will reduce fun factor)

I use R10 "Stealth" have follow reasons:

This car on AI list, Power and Weight in same range.
I didn't have more Prototype.
 
-raVer-
As I said before , you have to pit every 25 laps (fill 10 litres on 1st pitstop and 55 litres on the other pitstops) to lose not too much time in the pits.



Try it with the R10 (without oilchange on Race Soft) and you will see this isn´t that easy.


Setup for R10 (630 bhp , 925kg , Race Soft , no oilchange)

Aero : 45/67
Top Speed: 255mph
Ride height: -15/-10
Springrate: 14.3/12.8
Dampers ex: 6/8
Dampers co: 6/6
Anti Roll: 3/6
Camber: 2.0/1.0
Toe: 0/0



raVer
Click to expand...

Okay done it with the R10. I put it on soft race tyres and set gears for 249MPH. Other than switching TC off, I didn't change a single setting. So everything else was stock. I was able to get 35 laps out of each set of tyres and ran out winner by about a lap and a half/two thirds (I wish PD would fix that stupid result screen). It's more difficult than with any of the other LMP cars but still an easy win.

Edit. I also let the pitstop selector fill the fuel tank on each pitstop except the last one as I did not want to gain advantage over the AI in the pits.
 
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TCSdisable
Re: yanaran
Thx your suggestion, I will think seriously the front wing angle and apply medium tyre or not.
Click to expand...
I should clarify that I was only using Racing Medium as an example of what it takes to win the race in the R10, not suggesting that you should change to that. If you're already using Softs then keep using them as that will be faster. :)
 
Less rear downforce helps the front turn in better and lets you apply power earlier. Just enough wing that the back has enough grip at speed this might take trial and error but it is hugely fast.
 

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