1990 - 93 Turbo Celica?

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DoctorFool
Alright, so I am still looking for a first car and my dad was wondering if I wanted a Toyota Celica AWD Turbo?

His friend owns a shop etc. etc.

He doesn't know the exact year because we haven't seen it yet.

All he know's is its between 1990 - 95 and its an AWD Celica turbo.


Any info on this car?

I seriously think my dad was offering to buy it for me even though I am willing to purchase it.
 
I don't much about these myself yet but as you know I've just bought one.

The one your dad will be looking at is a 5th generation Celica, the 4WD one is the GT-Four, they have a wider body than the lower spec models, turbo and are a lot more powerful.

What you should look for is Rust on the rear sills. This is important, it starts on the inside ( i suspect mainly due to water ingress through the vent in door pillar) and works its way out, so no easy way to check for it apart from the usual, signs of bubbling, but by this time its too late to stop & need cutting out.

Timing belt - 60K intervals.

Thats as much as I know if I'm honest, also the radiators I believe start to go on average 100,000 miles.

Just make sure you do your basic checks and you should be grand. Its getting to be an old car now and there going to have faults.

Sign up to this site - http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/index
Theres loads of good info on there, common faults etc, have a good read before parting with your cash.
 
Jamie-C
I don't much about these myself yet but as you know I've just bought one.

The one your dad will be looking at is a 5th generation Celica, the 4WD one is the GT-Four, they have a wider body than the lower spec models, turbo and are a lot more powerful.

What you should look for is Rust on the rear sills. This is important, it starts on the inside ( i suspect mainly due to water ingress through the vent in door pillar) and works its way out, so no easy way to check for it apart from the usual, signs of bubbling, but by this time its too late to stop & need cutting out.

Timing belt - 60K intervals.

Thats as much as I know if I'm honest, also the radiators I believe start to go on average 100,000 miles.

Just make sure you do your basic checks and you should be grand. Its getting to be an old car now and there going to have faults.

Sign up to this site - http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/index
Theres loads of good info on there, common faults etc, have a good read before parting with your cash.
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Yeah it's 4WD and Turbo, ill check the site out.

Do you know the HP of the car? or some good things?

My dad was saying it could be a GTS? I am not sure.

He told me its a turbo, AWD, and it's rare.

R1600Turbo
You talking about importing one? I have no idea how many they sold in Canada, but I know the USA didn't get very many.
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No it's already here, my dads friend has one.
 
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The car you're looking for, by the way, is the 1989-1993 Toyota Celica GT-Four, commonly just called GT-Four, I think. If I'm not mistaken, one of the members on here owns one.
They're making about 220HP and similar lb-ft numbers. The chassis code is ST185, it's based on the fifth generation Chelica.

The 1994-1999 models are based on the sixth generation Chelica and the chassis code is ST205...
 
And being a 90's Toyota, it should be reasonably reliable as well.

And, yeah, 220HP and lb-ft of torque seems more than decent for a first car... You'd better be careful with it :lol:
 
The ST185 GT-Four has a 3S-GTE and about 200hp, permanent AWD. Much like a WRX in its roots really, it was a homologation for Group A rallying. It ended in 1993 and the much rarer ST205 GT-Four started production the next year. The ST185 has flip-up headlights and the ST205 has four body-moulded headlights...and about 40 more horsies. A very select few of the ST205 probably made it to the US/Canada, but you'd be able to count them on one hand.

Also, if you wanna know anything about what the ST185 is like to own, probably hit up Punknoodle; he owns a burgandy ST185 I believe.
 
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I have one, as with any car they can have their problems, I have spent a lot of money bringing mine up to speed maintenance wise, and thats not including the mods.

Anyway I'd make sure to check that the car is shifting ok, as stretched linkage cables and worn syncros are as common as dog crap. Also check for rust in the key places, get a leak down test performed on the engine, check for oil leaks.

Expect to need to do your engine mounts, diff mount and bushings if you are going to build it up to be something special as the car is fairly old now. The clutch is a PITA to get to so try to make sure it's not slipping.

Anyway I have replaced all of the suspension, had the gearbox and power steering rebuilt, engine rebuilt, and a lot of various other mods and maintenance done so let me know if you end up getting it and need a hand with anything, as I have learnt a lot along the way.

P.S if it is a first car it may feel quick but it soon wears off, it ain't the quickest car around, and needs suspension changes and a rear sway bar to get it to handle a bit better - I've done this so as I say, let me know if you need advice.

On a good note, I love mine and have plenty of fun in it 👍
 
Ok just talked to my dad, it's one of his co workers selling it.

He is selling it for 1000 dollars Canadian, (same thing as USA) Like 700 Pounds.

Apparently the problem is the engine, it is running rough or something, he doesn't have time to fix it etc.

The engine apparently is from Japan and ECU etc.

Should I just do a whole engine swap if I get this? Any advice? :S
 
Get something that will run without a engine swap as your first car. It sounds like a fun project but its not worth it for your first. Plus, I'm sure the insurance won't be too good for one, as it would considered sporty.
 
Depends what the problem is. If it is indeed a problem with the ECU that is going to be extremely expensive. If it's a sensor then it won't cost as much. If it's a problem with the motor then it could get expensive real quick too.

I'd stay away personally, unless the rest of the car was completely mint and you don't mind investing some time and money on it to get it right, however being your first car I wouldn't recommend that either. I'd look for something that runs well already and just keep it maintained.
 
Punknoodle
Depends what the problem is. If it is indeed a problem with the ECU that is going to be extremely expensive. If it's a sensor then it won't cost as much. If it's a problem with the motor then it could get expensive real quick too.

I'd stay away personally, unless the rest of the car was completely mint and you don't mind investing some time and money on it to get it right, however being your first car I wouldn't recommend that either. I'd look for something that runs well already and just keep it maintained.
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Oh, didn't mean the ECU was bad, meant he got the engine + ECU in Japan.

My dad just say's the car is running rough and he wanted to upgrade so he is selling for $1000.

Apparently, the car is in mint condition, no rust, etc.
 
Murcie_LP640
A very select few of the ST205 probably made it to the US/Canada, but you'd be able to count them on one hand.
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The ST-205 was never officially imported to the US or Canada. If any are still here, I'm sure they're far too expensive.

The ST-204, like what I have, is still a pretty reasonable vehicle. Granted, the top-trim GT runs with a Camry-sourced 2.2L 5S-FE, but it still handles quite well, and the ride isn't half bad. Reliable as a rock, otherwise.
 
If it's a transplanted engine it's more than likely, by the sounds of it, a FWD Celica with the turbo engine in it. That changes things. You'd have to trust this guy that it has been done right etc. Look for a first car, I'd be hesitant to buy something that's not running right. Besides, you'd be ending up with a heavy FWD which would be understeer central
 
Nope, I know for a fact it's 4WD. I have been in the car a couple years ago, back then it rode great, it's still mint apparently.

I wouldn't mind doing an engine swap as I do have mechanical experience.
 
Why does it have a transplanted engine in it if it was the GT-Four model anyway? I don't follow. Originally you said it may have been the GTS model which is FWD powered by a 5SFE. It makes sense someone may want to engine swap that.

Why do you want to do a transplant as opposed to fixing it?
 
Punknoodle
Besides, you'd be ending up with a heavy FWD which would be understeer central
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Although I can only speak for the ST-204, it still handles quite well even as a FWD vehicle. There are a good number of cars that came out at the time that would be jealous to be that well balanced.
 
The ST204 doesn't have a 200 HP 3SGTE either though.. Front wheels loose traction easier = understeer. I used to have an ST182 (JDM Model, GT-R), FWD, had the 3SGE engine in it, if I had the turbo engine in that it would have been fun, for sure, but for a first car? Put the foot down mid corner, hit boost and panic when the front wheels slip. Not saying he's a bad driver just inexperienced.
 
I asked him, the car is 4WD and the car is in mint shape. The problem is the engine is running rough, I also asked around and apparently the engines on that thing go, alot.
 
On the contrary, the 3SGTE has a reputation for being one of the most bullet proof engines out there.
 
1000 dollars, for a Gt-Four, in mint condition?

I smell something fishy.
 
And for a first car, waaaaaaaaaaaaay to powerful, it will be trashed or crashed in less then 6 months. 👍
 
Okay a major thing stands out to me. Why in the world would a guy who OWNS A SHOP sell a car that cheap if this rough running engine was an easyish fix. Extremely fishy and I would walk, no run away from this. He should be able to fix the engine and the fact he isn't likely means it's toast.

The whole engine swap idea sounds nice in theory but again I come back to the fact he could do it at a fraction of what it will cost you and that also leads me to believe there could be structural damage or other issues.

Edit: When looking for cars don't trust anybody selling a car. I learned the hard way and luckily got out only losing a 100 bucks on the car. I'd hate to see you guys lose a $1000 on a piece of junk.
 
Dennisch
And for a first car, waaaaaaaaaaaaay to powerful, it will be trashed or crashed in less then 6 months. 👍
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Are you kidding, most kids around here have trucks with big block v8s, some making 400+ hp. I know there not light by any means but either way no wrecking here. And my jeep makes around 260 ft-lb of torque and its around 3,800lbs - and that suckers a little torqy but still slow.

But i agree with insurance cost.
 

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