4Runner R&R (with pics)

Sniffs · May 5, 2009

after begging for weeks, someone finally brought me up a set of new wheels. I'm having trouble getting my alloys off when there's tire trouble; if any of you are part-time truckers, you can explain that aluminum tends to stick to steel hubs, for some reason. do british lorry drivers have that problem, or are you guys all steel wheels?

finally gotten a seperate set of wheels. I've identified these as coming of a 90's Pathfinder, and was told they were actually ON a toyota pickup (wether the un-named in the US 2nd and 3rd gen HiLux, or a first gen Taco, I don't know). the one in the upper right, though, I think came off an 80's Hardbody. anybody think they won't fit?

this piece always seems to break, and I think It threw off the guys who were trying to do my alignment last august...the other end of this was torqued to hell by guys not used to dealing with an independant suspension, and I think the weld snapped whe they played with it.

I'm holding this poor bugger up in the air with ONE thumb. the local dealership re-welded the brace last May. I was running in to pick my parents up an anniversary present when...no brakes. the metal brake line was hooked right on, and snaped like a twig. good thing this didn't happen during my pickup run...that's all downhill!

Sniffs · May 6, 2009

*bump*

dammit, I wanted some opinions, comments, and advice...

PLEASE?!

///M-Spec · May 6, 2009

Well in the case of your alloys sticking to the hub, it's caused by road salt reacting with the two metals. Very normal in norther climates. I change my wheels every spring and winter and they almost always stick to some extent. Just make sure the car is stable and you can knock them off the hub by (gently) rocking them at the 3 and 9 position. You can also use a rubber mallet.

When I put the summer (or winter) wheels on, I apply a small amount of lithium grease to the hub mounting surface. I notice this makes it easier to back the wheel off 5-6 months later.

The first time I took the wheels off my wife's allroad, one in particular was HELLA STUCK. I ended up squiring a little WD40 into the seam between the hub and wheel. 30 seconds later, if pop off without a problem. Just make sure you don't end up getting any on your brakes or lug studs! (or lug bolts in our case)

M

Sniffs · May 7, 2009

seems to have nothing to do with the Road Salt (they don't seem to stick when it's cold out). oh, and it's not "gently" with these buggers. we've had to use an 8 pound sledge on a 3 foot handle sometimes...it takes me an hour to get em loose, and even then, I gotta call somebody to finish em off. even the Lube trick rarely works (every time I grease up so they don't stick, the wise guys at the shop wipe it all off). oh, with this thing constantly blowing out ball joints for some reason, rocking the fronts doesn't do a bit of good.

I may have to provide another pic. it seems that the 4wd hubs are at a crankshaft bearing tolerance, which is why I'm swapping to these old chromies, above.

Sniffs · May 8, 2009

*update*
aw crap!
no dice on the wheels. on my attemp, today, for a fitting, the core wouldn't even go over the 4wd hubs. I have a feeling they were pulled from a manual hub 4wd...and I have auto hubs.

eiriksmil · May 8, 2009

None of the wheels fit? The ones with dish looked pretty sweet.

///M-Spec
Just make sure you don't end up getting any on your brakes or lug studs! (or lug bolts in our case)

What's the problem with this?

///M-Spec · May 8, 2009

^^ You can get the lubricant (like WD40 or lithium grease) on your brake discs or pads, which can cause them to not work properly.

And if you get grease on your lug bolts, you can way overtorque them when tighting them back on the car. (torque specs are given "dry")

M

Sniffs · May 9, 2009

Eirik: i know. the center core, or "donught hole" is rather large on my Toyo. not even wheels off an old C/K will fit, as the core even in those is mabey a MILLIMETER too small. I'm gonna get a ruler and check (and take pics) the steel wheels (i'm assuming they're either chromed or Stainless) appear to be off a second gen Nissan Pathfinder/Hardbody pickup (can't find a european name for it)

M:for some reason, the alloys on this are a hard fit that you defintely can't get the thinnest feeler gague into. the tolerance is so tight that my alloys leave scrape marks on the 4wd hubs.
I'll have to post pics of the brake hub for you guys...it's kinda hard to get Anti seize on a brake disk that set back something like3 inches or more from the wheel spacing (you'll have to see what I mean). since I live in a heavy corrosion zone, you have to put anti-seize on the studs just to be able to get the nuts off when needed, or they rust together

eiriksmil · May 10, 2009

We never got Pathfinders here, but the wheels look like the ones on the early European Terrano IIs

///M-Spec
^^ You can get the lubricant (like WD40 or lithium grease) on your brake discs or pads, which can cause them to not work properly.

And if you get grease on your lug bolts, you can way overtorque them when tighting them back on the car. (torque specs are given "dry")

M

I always grease studs/bolts up before the winter, so they come off easier, never had a problem. The WD-40 should be gone from the disc/pad at the first brake, shouldn't it?

zed300 · May 10, 2009

eiriksmil
We never got Pathfinders here, but the wheels look like the ones on the early European Terrano IIs

They are Nissans the 4Runner is a Toyota...2 door Surf .....you may have got these as they are the equivilant of the Terrano I ....which I've got.

Sniffs · May 10, 2009

okay...I wikied it, and you guys confirmed that the Pathfinder's European Market name is Terrano
the wheels may be off the second gen pathfinder
Zed: actually, it's a SurfII four door (i don't think we ever got a 2 door version after the first gen) with the SR5 package, Grey trim, spare carrier, and the 3vze (in which i seem to have a oil seal leak, but it's holding on) detuned a bit for American emissions. it's underpowered for the US weight settings ( i believe the gross on the thing is pushing 2500 kilos!). 140 some odd US horsepower/100+KW is nowhere NEAR enough power to shove this poor thing around...and that's at mint condition level.
I've had a look at the door sticker they provide here...this poor bugger is OFFICCIALY 20 years old (finish assembly before shipping was 5/89!) the gross weight (with max passenger load) is listed as 5350 lbs! (2425 kg) with a 2600 lb front axle, 3000 lb rear. man, are the Hi Lux's rated that high where you guys are?