820bhp Supra wheel spin problem on launch.

[V_sPeC]

My friend's Supra, even while using super soft racing tires, keeps having wheel spin until 3rd gear which really affects acceleration. I've tried lowering the spring rate in the rear and it doesn't seem to help. Any ideas on how to eliminate wheel spin anyone?

 

[Gen.]

It's the car. It's got a hell of alot of power at the wheels. Your not gonna be able to do anything about it. Besides TCS that is.

DA down below answered your question, assuming your ready to muck around with all the settings. I'm just stating that if you want to keep the same amount of power at the wheels. But damn... That's too much.

 

[Der Alta]

Well, for one, how about dumping some of the Horsepower, increasing the TCS, and then practice a bit of throttle control?

That's perhaps the three biggest things to increase your acceleration time and decrease your wheel spin.

But that's adjusting how you play. When it comes to suspension, I'd spend a bit of time searching through the settings forum, reading and learning how it can be done.

There are a slew of really smart people on here, and most will help you shortly.

Good luck,

AO

 

[thaleppes]

true what they say, but I think if you wideen the gears in first and second, you maybe have a little less wheelspin?
I don't know for sure, maybe anyone who can prove me wrong or right?

 

[akak]

My friend's Supra, even while using super soft racing tires, keeps having wheel spin until 3rd gear which really affects acceleration. I've tried lowering the spring rate in the rear and it doesn't seem to help. Any ideas on how to eliminate wheel spin anyone?

To much power as others have said the only way your going to get traction in the first few gears is with some TC, racing slicks might help but that'll take away from the fun

 

[okieOU]

well in real drag racing, the spring rate in the rear is usually set at max in order to gain traction (you dont want your car to 'squat' and shift weight too much)

 

[akak]

Id also tell him to get an rx7 for some reason this car handles hard tuning much better there is still wheelspin but no where near the amount seen in a supra

Its a bit of a weird car the supra does seem to lack alot of traction even when lightly tuned

 

[Rob GT]

Are you using a wheel and pedals set or the standard PS2 dual shock controller? With an actual gas pedal to press, you could learn to slowly feed in the gas to control wheelspin. I never been able to do that very well using the dual shock controller. With that much horsepower, I always end up setting the TCS to "1".

 

[FRED SIMÕES]

It's the car...

 

[vladimir]

true what they say, but I think if you wideen the gears in first and second, you maybe have a little less wheelspin?
I don't know for sure, maybe anyone who can prove me wrong or right?

longer gears can help a lot against wheelspin, but don't make them too long, the wheels should still be able to spin a little (maybe not in 3rd), and then, a little bit of throttle control is needed.

 

[Conad]

well in real drag racing, the spring rate in the rear is usually set at max in order to gain traction (you dont want your car to 'squat' and shift weight too much)

Really now?

What do you run?

 

[Conad]

My friend's Supra, even while using super soft racing tires, keeps having wheel spin until 3rd gear which really affects acceleration. I've tried lowering the spring rate in the rear and it doesn't seem to help. Any ideas on how to eliminate wheel spin anyone?

Well I see the problem as this game has neither tire size selection, nor the option to tub or add flares for larger width tires.

You can try setting up the suspension like a drag car, but thats only gonna help you launch. Just accept the fact that it's overpowered, and dial it back to where you have more control, or use it as a top speed, test course car.

 

[tm2003]

Well I see the problem as this game has neither tire size selection, nor the option to tub or add flares for larger width tires.

You can try setting up the suspension like a drag car, but thats only gonna help you launch. Just accept the fact that it's overpowered, and dial it back to where you have more control, or use it as a top speed, test course car.

No offence, but Did You really Have To Double Post, You Could Just edit
your old post,

welcome to GTP 👍

 

[194GVan]

820bhp Supra wheel spin problem on launch.

this should be rephrased...
820bhp Supra = wheel spin problem on launch

apparently the supra is notorious for this problem in GT4 even with low to moderate upgrades. your not going to get any grip unless you drop a few hundred horespower.

 

[TwinTurboZ]

well in real drag racing, the spring rate in the rear is usually set at max in order to gain traction (you dont want your car to 'squat' and shift weight too much)

*buzzer*
Wrong answer! Maybe if you run a front-wheel drive car that is true, but for 4wd and RWD cars like a Supra it is the exact opposite. The shocks would be set at maximum rebound, and min. compression, and rear springs would be set soft. Usually, you'd even run an airbag in addition to a soft spring on one of the sides (usually left, depends on the engine's rotation direction) to firm that side up and prevent the car from squatting to one side due to engine's rotational torque, and lifting the opposite front wheel. As far as the realism of drag racing goes in this game, it's BS!!! I've tried to set up a GNX for drag racing only with dedicated suspension settings, and fully modified I was only able to get into high 10's. With such a set up in real life, the car would be capable of mid-9 second runs. As far as Supras go, just check out Titan Motorsports Supras, which have street going 800-900 hp machines, which propel themselves into low-8 second times at over 150 mph with nothing more than some suspension work and a set of BFG street drag radials. They just sold a street-going 1000hp Supra not too long ago for around $60K. As far as road racing goes, I find 500-550 hp Supras or Cobra Rs with firm suspension best suited for the task. Enough punch to accelerate hard out of corners, yet not so much torque that you positively lack traction. Suspension settings that worked for me were 84 mm ride height all around, 14 kg/m springs, 5 on shock comression, and 9 on rebound, and 7/6 on front/rear stabilizers respectively. It takes a bit of getting used to, since the dynamics of handling allow for almost no roll, but you can always overcompensate for understeer in a critical situation by downshifting, and rolling on and off the throttle firmly. The ass comes right around.

 

[ChicagoGSX]

Twin Turbo Z had most of it correct, except on a 4WD car you don't want as much weight transfer as a RWD car, so the rear is stiffer. The front wheels will spin otherwise in a high HP car.

 

[V_sPeC]

this should be rephrased...
820bhp Supra = wheel spin problem on launch

apparently the supra is notorious for this problem in GT4 even with low to moderate upgrades. your not going to get any grip unless you drop a few hundred horespower.

See the thing is, my friend kept complaining that he couldn't beat Tokyo Route 246 in the Tuning Car Grand Prix Professional Hall with his 820bhp Supra, even when the race was only 1 A-Spec point. I was thinking "WTF" in my head I beat that race with a NA 350Z at 67 A-Spec points. Then I tried playing that race he said he had so much problems on and I was going WTF myself! The main problem is because there's this crazy tuned Opera S2000 and a bunch of cars that out classed his Supra. The race was 137 A-Spec points. The other problem was he rear wheels kept spinning out on acceleration and coming out of corners and that was the main reason he could never keep up with the other cars.

One other thing I've notice about the roster of cars, even when it's 1 A-Spec point, is that the computer sometimes puts a crazy powerful 1st place car that you can't never catch up to. I've had this happened many times and the minute I switch to a more powerful car the crazy fast 1st place car is gone.

 

[Conad]

*buzzer*
Wrong answer! Maybe if you run a front-wheel drive car that is true, but for 4wd and RWD cars like a Supra it is the exact opposite. The shocks would be set at maximum rebound, and min. compression, and rear springs would be set soft. Usually, you'd even run an airbag in addition to a soft spring on one of the sides (usually left, depends on the engine's rotation direction) to firm that side up and prevent the car from squatting to one side due to engine's rotational torque, and lifting the opposite front wheel. As far as the realism of drag racing goes in this game, it's BS!!! I've tried to set up a GNX for drag racing only with dedicated suspension settings, and fully modified I was only able to get into high 10's. With such a set up in real life, the car would be capable of mid-9 second runs. As far as Supras go, just check out Titan Motorsports Supras, which have street going 800-900 hp machines, which propel themselves into low-8 second times at over 150 mph with nothing more than some suspension work and a set of BFG street drag radials. They just sold a street-going 1000hp Supra not too long ago for around $60K. As far as road racing goes, I find 500-550 hp Supras or Cobra Rs with firm suspension best suited for the task. Enough punch to accelerate hard out of corners, yet not so much torque that you positively lack traction. Suspension settings that worked for me were 84 mm ride height all around, 14 kg/m springs, 5 on shock comression, and 9 on rebound, and 7/6 on front/rear stabilizers respectively. It takes a bit of getting used to, since the dynamics of handling allow for almost no roll, but you can always overcompensate for understeer in a critical situation by downshifting, and rolling on and off the throttle firmly. The ass comes right around.

Aww you ruined it, I was trying to get him to respond and tell us more BS before pissing in his cornflakes. Mighta even took some of his money first.

Yes the GNX didnt really get the respect it deserves. PD did a really bad job on most of the american cars. However some of it was due to the fact that the GNX needed some performance adjustments to reach full potential (no parts, just some tweakin). The rated HP was really not even close to a tuned GNX. Same with the 69' Z28, they went by the rated 290 HP, which was a flagrant lie by GM for insurance reasons. These beasts were more in the 420 HP category, and turned alot more RPM's. I did like the fact they were included at least. I miss my GN, selling her was the worst mistake I have ever made.

And sorry TM2003 I dont know how to quote 2 posts in the same one, sorry I offended you.

 

[suleman963]

i would lengthen(sp?) 1st and 2nd gear, transfer some of the weight to the back and play around iwth the suspension settings. but yah, try different driving techniques.

 

[123abc]

Aww you ruined it, I was trying to get him to respond and tell us more BS before pissing in his cornflakes. Mighta even took some of his money first.

Yes the GNX didnt really get the respect it deserves. PD did a really bad job on most of the american cars. However some of it was due to the fact that the GNX needed some performance adjustments to reach full potential (no parts, just some tweakin). The rated HP was really not even close to a tuned GNX. Same with the 69' Z28, they went by the rated 290 HP, which was a flagrant lie by GM for insurance reasons. These beasts were more in the 420 HP category, and turned alot more RPM's. I did like the fact they were included at least. I miss my GN, selling her was the worst mistake I have ever made.

And sorry TM2003 I dont know how to quote 2 posts in the same one, sorry I offended you.

I was just gonna say.......he must be a rice lover.

Setting rear camber to 0 will also help a bit, as you get the full contact patch of the tires.

 

[98cobra]

Aww you ruined it, I was trying to get him to respond and tell us more BS before pissing in his cornflakes. Mighta even took some of his money first.

Yes the GNX didnt really get the respect it deserves. PD did a really bad job on most of the american cars. However some of it was due to the fact that the GNX needed some performance adjustments to reach full potential (no parts, just some tweakin). The rated HP was really not even close to a tuned GNX. Same with the 69' Z28, they went by the rated 290 HP, which was a flagrant lie by GM for insurance reasons. These beasts were more in the 420 HP category, and turned alot more RPM's. I did like the fact they were included at least. I miss my GN, selling her was the worst mistake I have ever made.

And sorry TM2003 I dont know how to quote 2 posts in the same one, sorry I offended you.

Yep very true the Camaros revved higher and didn't sound like crap.

 

[Homer_SS]

98cobra........just a randomthing i noticed about youre sig.....
Ricers do have brand loyalties.... there the type that see a name brand and abuse it to the max. They dont care why its better they want it for the bling factor.

Back on topic.....
I kinda like the supra and its wheel spin issue. It makes a very nice drift car......once you kock down some power. Its very hard to control 820hp going sideways

 

[standard235]

Didn't read rest of thread so forgive me.... How about you stop going 100% throttle on launch. Moudulate your throttle so you are right on that "point" of most traction. That's all i can say...

 

[inferno]

Just like most people are saying, the supra is capable of producing huge amounts of power and it has a down right featherlight bum. it just cant take it. Drop down to about 600 hp and learn throttle controll/bump up the TCS.

although my personal suggestion is to get a GTR! All wheel drive baby!

[EDIT]

sorry

 

[194GVan]

ooohh, how about adding full ballast weight to the rear? yet another thing to try if your friend is determined to use the supra instead of considering a car thats generally easier to drive.

 

[inferno]

Well, if he's trying to turn it into a drag car, which is kind of pointless, then you could get it to launch well. lean it on the back tiers, run full rear ballast, like the dude before me said, and whatever else you can think of like zero camber and toe, super soft tiers. also consider reducing the front rolling resistance by equiping the hardest tiers and cambering out the wheels. keep in mind all this would destroy it's performance around a track.

[EDIT]

The GTR would still be better.

 

[Neeseius57]

ever since GT1 the supra has been slow as hell. It's capable of beating the skyline in every area but it just doesn't get traction. It has so much rear wheel torque that TCS keeps it from actually putting out its full power. yeah and polophony definitely make this car suck, its funny becuase its definitely one hell of a legendary sports car in japan, yet you can only buy a stock one at the used car center, but you can buy at least 10 variations of a stock r34 brand new, plus ones out of the used car lot. HMMM.......

 

[ToyotaDrifter]

You guys must be flooring it in turns/starts. You dont have to do that. Like Z said first you have to change the settings. Stiff rebound, low compression such and such. Then if you want turn off TCS or keep it at 5. After that put the gripest tires on there. Take it to the test track and work on your throdo (killed that word spelling) control. Till you get a 10sec Supra. Then you set. For turning practice that at any rally track. The rain/dirt/ or snow will make you learn to keep it in the turn. If you get to the point where you rearly hit the wall try it on a non rally track. Then you will never hit the wall unless being pushed or have no tires or maybe flying.

-TD

 

[Conad]

Yep very true the Camaros revved higher and didn't sound like crap.

Yes they sounded mean due to the fact they sported a chambered exhaust system. 67'-69' Z28's were beasts in every sense of the words. I cant think of another car that might have goodies such as factory headers and a dual 4 barrel cross ram intake system... shipped in the trunk... for plausible deniabilty reasons.

 

[Skant]

Short shift.

Short shifting is where you shift up to the next gear before redline rpm. There will be a particular rpm in each of the lower gears where the torque exceeds traction. Use that as your 'redline' for that gear instead.

It's a common method of handling this problem in real race cars. Especially because it also saves gas and wear.


(Incidentally, I find it amusing when people say a car is ruined in GT4 because it's realistic enough that they don't have the skill to drive it. A lot of the fastest cars out there are _very_ hard to drive. The Supra is a very fast car if you can handle it)

- Skant