I've been using my Fanatec Forza CSR wheel for some time now. Just yesterday the teeth of the bigger belt separated from the belt. It was a portion about 1/2" long and it folded itself under and formed a bulge causing the wheel to bind when turned about 20% to the left. I cut off the part that separated to see if that was definitely the cause of the binding. It was but now when I turn on the wheel and it starts it's calibration, the motor and bottom/smaller belt continues to spin when the wheel reaches full right lock. The wheel has no resistance and is absolutely loose. I've tried to Google any diagrams or info on how to pull apart the wheel to replace the belts but can't find anything. I have a old Turbo S that's in pieces and I'd like to see if the belt from that fits the CSR. so if anyone can help me with a diagram or tutorial on how to pull the wheel apart to change the belt I would extremely appreciate it. Very bummed that I can't use my wheel and ABSOLUTELY REFUSE to play any racing sim with a controller.
Anybody have instructions for disassembling a Fanatec CSR?
- Thread starter Linx
- 14 comments
- 16,640 views
- 1,082
- Texas
- EF-12345678
Thanks for the quick response but that's the CSR Elite. I have the regular Forza CSR.
- 4,114
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
Wrong wheel, sadly.
You could try googling Fanatec Porsche GT2 or GT3RS wheel maintenance, they have the same internals with a different rim.
- 1,082
- Texas
- EF-12345678
Yeah I tried different searches. Even did a general search of "Fanatec disassembly" "Fanatec belt replacement" etc. but no luck. I looked through YouTube as well and the best I could find was just removal of the cover. Other then that a video of someone who had a issue with belt popping off so he soldered a washer on the motor.
- 1,082
- Texas
- EF-12345678
If you can't find anything, try going to their support page.
I sent them a email and video but wondering if I'll hear anything soon as their customer service isn't top notch and the fact that I'm not the original purchaser isn't gonna make things any better. But thanks you guys for the quick response. Very much appreciated. I'm hoping I'll be able to fix this or else I'm gonna have to purchase another wheel. I love Fanatec products but might have to switch to a different wheel due to no stateside support. Never had a Thrustmaster. Which of their wheels is the best for Xbox 360?
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- 1,223
- Kalayaan Islands
This.
![4lb-masons-club-hammer-[3]-592-p.gif](/forum/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.g-gibson.com%2Fekmps%2Fshops%2Fggibson%2Fimages%2F4lb-masons-club-hammer-%5B3%5D-592-p.gif&hash=366d92923fbc76d791a15ce25be4a52f)
Just joking. Can this help? http://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/support/faq/faqknowledgebase Hope you find it.
Just joking. Can this help? http://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/support/faq/faqknowledgebase Hope you find it.
Lol. That method will come soon if I don't hear from Fanatec soon.This.
Just joking. Can this help? http://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/support/faq/faqknowledgebase Hope you find it.
- 1,002
- Northern VA
This is about modding a CSR, but it shows how to get inside. It's easier than the older Porsche wheels since the screws to remove the steering wheel are visible right on the front:
Sean Čebron has clearer footage showing how to open a Porsche wheel. The CSR and Porsche wheels use a lot of shared engineering, so it should be applicable (barring how you remove the wheel of course):
Sean Čebron has clearer footage showing how to open a Porsche wheel. The CSR and Porsche wheels use a lot of shared engineering, so it should be applicable (barring how you remove the wheel of course):
- 577
- NC
I have a couple of those wheels. They take some time to dis and reassemble compared to a CSW / CSR-E. Mostly you can just go slowly and you should be able to get it done. Taking it apart a challenge is all the glued down cable ends. You can slowly pull off the goop for them. Going back together make sure you don't overtighten the frame screws as they are metal fasteners going into soft plastic. So there is only so much you can tighten them before damage occurs. You can use generic belts of the same spec bought locally as I have done. I never found the need to re-glue the cable ends.
- 577
- NC
Sure thing. I think they should but have not tried it out as I have two CSRs but no P wheels. The reason I think the odds are great is because molds are very, very expensive and so the two wheels likely are mostly identical mechanically. You can buy some of these wheels dirt cheap as they are not economical to repair. I got belts for something like 5 or 8 dollars or thereabouts, worked just fine.
