Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions

ryzno


In all honesty if you want everything to come on when you turn the key to run you could use a 4 prong relay or you could use the one you have.

All a 5 pin does (87a) is provide power to a circuit when the key is off.

What you do is run your key on power supply to pin (86) and run pin (85) to ground.
Then run a fused battery power supply to pin (30) and hook up what ever you want to use on that circuit to pin (87). Edit: You will have to run a ground wire from whatever you install to complete the circuit.
Pin (87a) is used to provide power to an additional circuit you want to use when the key is off.
In your case you can simply not use pin (87a) unless you can find something you want to power when the key is off.

Hope that helps.
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Thank you so much, that helped out a lot.

I guess another question would be what size fuse should I use for the 12v wire heading to the relay that's coming from the battery? Also should I use a fuse for the wire that's getting tapped in by my electronics (digital gauges, control unit etc.) or will that not be necessary?
 
JrDarknes
Thank you so much, that helped out a lot.
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You're welcome.
JrDarknes
I guess another question would be what size fuse should I use for the 12v wire heading to the relay that's coming from the battery?
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That depends on how much power the gauges and control unit for them pull. I assume it is LED gauges and a digital converter. If so a 7.5A should be sufficient. I don't think in line fuses after the relay are needed, neither device should ever get near 7.5A, even running together on the same circuit.
Edit this is assuming that is all you are going to run off that relay. Also check the box or instructions for an actual Amp pull. If they have 2 different amp ratings then individual fuses after the relay will be needed and the on before the relay will need to be replaced accordingly.

Now if the control unit actually is a ECM and controls the entire car, I would recommend separate circuits and relays for each one.
 
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Dear friends, please advise me !! I need to know whether I should repair my car or forget it and scrap it. It's a 2006 VW Golf TDi diesel 6 speed manual, it has 219,000 miles on the clock. It broke down yesterday as the timing belt broke. This may have caused damage to other parts of the engine but I don't know for sure. The car will also need a clutch and dual mass flywheel this year also which is an expensive job. It also needs new rear brakes, a new windscreen as that has a long crack in it, and has a problem with the bonnet which is jammed shut at present but usually does not lock down properly. The car is worth around one thousand pounds in the UK. The timing belt will cost about three hundred pounds and the clutch dual mass flywheel will cost around five hundred pounds. Normally it would be an obvious decision to scrap it but honestly it is otherwise such a good car, the engine is so economical and reliable it is unbelievable. Do you guys reckon I should repair it or scrap it. Thank you friends.
MC
 
The TDI is interference here in USA, more than likely valves are bent, the head will need to be repaired or replaced if that is the case.
 
On top of that, possible piston damage. You might end up having to rebuild the entire engine.

Since it's not a classic, I say get another one.
 
Need electrical help again.

So pretty much I have a electric fan controller. My fans work but sometimes the fuse for them blows. Like I can drive for a while and the fans kick on but then eventually the fuse blows, I double checked all my wiring for shorts and they all seem fine. Well the 12 volt wire that goes to the relay, that fuse tends to blow. Its a 20amp fuse powering 2 fans, I think I need to get a 30amp fuse.

My question is, is this safe or no? I only ask this because I am at work and I am looking at this chart that tells me how many amps a wire can handle. It says for 30 amps you need a 10 gauge wire. I have a 14 gauge coming straight from the 12v battery to a fuse that changes to a 10 gauge or maybe 8 (wire that came with the relay). the 8 gauge goes to two 14 gauge wires that hit my fan.

The kit told me to use a 20amp fuse but the diagram only showed 1 fan. I have two. The fans came with 14 gauge wire. So i am a bit confused.

This is how I have it wired up visually.
 

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Id say a 30 amp would be sufficient.
The fans pull the most amps when they start spinning. Once they get going the amps used will drop.

If the wires are getting hot, Id recommend 10 gauge.
 
I have a query. My Starlet keeps refusing to start on cold and/or wet mornings. At first, I put this down to a flat battery, but every time I charge it, it shows as being nearly full. Could be the alternator but there's no warning light, so the only other option is the starter motor. When it's dead, the engine still cranks. Anyone able to troubleshoot this?
 
We have a 2000 toyota sienna. The check engine light came on, the codes are p0300, p0301, p0303, p0305, misfiring of cylinders codes. What should I check first?
 
Ok, so as I was getting my clutch slave plumbed up last night with my uncle, this little plug thing in my head broke, and I honestly don't know what it is or what it could do. I could find it in diagrams, but it was never labeled. I thought it could maybe be some kind of breather since it does have a line running to the manifold, but it doesn't look like there's any on the rear head. If anyone has an idea or could shed some light, that'd be appreciated. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.

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I'm pretty sure that's a breather, too. Most newer cars I've seen will plumb their breathers into the intake so any evaporated oil will be burned in combustion.
 
My mom's PT Cruiser has developed an issue with leaky tires. Tires were pulled off and inspected, no nails/screws/etc. so they were fine. The problem appears to be the edge of the rim where tire bead sits. 13+ years of Chicago winters has taken it's toll and the wheel coating is coming off and thus the tire is not getting a good seal around the wheel rim. It was suggested she replace the rims (with the same size) and swap the tires over since they still have plenty of life in them.

Now while I don't know much about aftermarket wheels, I do know to stay away from the cheapos at the tire stores. She doesn't really care about the looks/style, nor does she want top of the line racing wheels. She doesn't want to spend a fortune, just needs some decent quality wheels that will survive Chicago winters and our pothole filled roads for another ~10 years or so that she plans to keep the car.

She trusted me to find some, but my knowledge of aftermarket wheels is limited. What are some (reasonably priced) good quality wheel brands to look at?

Figured I'd try asking here instead of starting a new thread, as I just need a list of wheel brands.
 
Today, I was checking the oil in a 2003 hyundai santa fe, and it does looks low. So we went out and bought some oil. After getting back, I noticed some white smoke like steam coming from the engine area, and then opened up the oil cap and smoke was coming out. And it smells a little strange. What do you think?
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Smoke and a funky smell could mean coolant is mixing with the oil, which typically indicates a head gasket issue. Check your coolant levels to see where they are at. Also now that you've filled up the oil, check it after a drive to see if there's any white, milkiness to it. That's a good indicator of a head gasket.

You could also be getting blow by in one of the cylinders, which is normal to a degree.

Also could very well be a PCV. That's be the easiest and cheapest thing to look at first.
 
The easiest way to check if there is coolant in the oil is taking out the dipstick and put a small flame to it, like a lighter. If it starts boiling within seconds, there's coolant in the oil.

And there will always be a bit of 'steam' coming out of a hot engine.

Edit.

And if there is a lot of coolant in the oil it will look like chocolate milk. Oil itself will stay clear brown for quite some time. When it gets old it will turn dark brown to black.
 
TrdScionxB2
The coolant reservoir seemed low, but no overheating yet. And can you explain PCV?
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In super simplistic terms it's the ventilation for the crankshaft. When there's blow-by gases and other crap builds up in the engine, the PCV valve allows it to vent. If the valve is bad, you sometimes will get steam or smoke coming from the oil cap or dipstick since there's no place else for it to vent.
 
Dennisch
The easiest way to check if there is coolant in the oil is taking out the dipstick and put a small flame to it, like a lighter. If it starts boiling within seconds, there's coolant in the oil.

And there will always be a bit of 'steam' coming out of a hot engine.

Edit.

And if there is a lot of coolant in the oil it will look like chocolate milk. Oil itself will stay clear brown for quite some time. When it gets old it will turn dark brown to black.
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Ok thanks. That sounds easy to try. And the engine was warm and recently run before we went out, but we did only drive it about 5 miles after that.

Joey D
In super simplistic terms it's the ventilation for the crankshaft. When there's blow-by gases and other crap builds up in the engine, the PCV valve allows it to vent. If the valve is bad, you sometimes will get steam or smoke coming from the oil cap or dipstick since there's no place else for it to vent.
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Ok thanks.
 
Well, I guess I'll have to double post since no one has posted in a while. Sorry. I have a report and another question. The report of the Toyota van that was misfiring was that the throttle body was full of oil from blow by. And my question. I have a 2009 scion xB, and when I start the scion for the first time of the day, I notice a strange dimming of the interior and dash lights. And the rpms drop and rise. But the strange thing is, all I have to do is turn off the car and restart it again and it's fixed. Do you have any idea what that could be?
 
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Would a slightly loose positive battery post connection cause the vehicle to not start and the alternator not able to recharge the battery?

My wife took this week off and has been at the dealership getting jerked around by them. I'm not at home to be able to test anything, just trying to get ideas for later.
 
TB
Would a slightly loose positive battery post connection cause the vehicle to not start and the alternator not able to recharge the battery?

My wife took this week off and has been at the dealership getting jerked around by them. I'm not at home to be able to test anything, just trying to get ideas for later.
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Yes.

Edit.

I had the exact same problem last week with the pickup.
 
TB
Would a slightly loose positive battery post connection cause the vehicle to not start and the alternator not able to recharge the battery?

My wife took this week off and has been at the dealership getting jerked around by them. I'm not at home to be able to test anything, just trying to get ideas for later.
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Yes.
 
TB
That's what I assumed but I didn't want to crank them down too much more. The very tips of the terminals are already touching. :irked:
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I've seen loose connections and battery corrosion cause the same issue. If you are out of adjustment take a socket that's a little bigger than the terminal like say a 21mm and use it to tap the terminal end down a little further on the tapered part of the post and should be tighter.
 
Dennisch
Yes.
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Blood Eagle
Yes.
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Just finished looking at it. The dealer tightened down the terminal. Connecting the battery charger to check percentage, but not using it to charge, it was at 60%. Hitting the remote start dropped it down to 59% then it started climbing. It hit 66% after a few minutes so I switched it over to alternator % which was running (at idle) at 62%. Stepping on the gas jumped it up to 75 and 85% so it looks like all is good.

Thanks, guys!
 
Its a 2001 4Runner with 99,600 miles. I have CEL on (Codes are P0300 and P0306 both are misfire codes) and it shakes little when idle and alot when in drive. When you first start it cold it will run good, once the needle starts to move you can hear it misfire. Can this be cause by the ignition coils, if it was the coils wouldn't it misfire when its cold too?
 

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