Assists - Traction Control, ASM and ABS

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I'm fairly new to GT7 but used to race a lot with GT6. Back in the day it was standard practice among the karting fraternity that I used to discus Gran Turismo with, that we would all race with assists off i.e. no TC, ABS or ASM. So this is that way I have been working my through GT7, although I have read that ABS to 'weak' is a standard setting, so this is what I use. So as I am about to start racing online, I’m wondering how people race these days WRT assists. Does the lobby host set the rules? Is it still standard practice to race with all assists off? What should I be practicing with prior to stepping out into the big wide virtual world?
 
I'm using controller, so I use all the help I can get, TC: 3 ABS: Default ASM: On CA: Strong and all this is okay in online racing as well as far as I know.
 
I like the challenge of racing with assists off, but if it puts me at a disadvantage online, and if it's okay to race with them on, then maybe I should change the way I race. Then again, ABS has no down-side (as meekrab points out) but I believe that TC and ASM slow one down through the twisties. Does anyone have any notion of just how much it can slow one down if one is used to driving without them?
 
I like the challenge of racing with assists off, but if it puts me at a disadvantage online, and if it's okay to race with them on, then maybe I should change the way I race. Then again, ABS has no down-side (as meekrab points out) but I believe that TC and ASM slow one down through the twisties. Does anyone have any notion of just how much it can slow one down if one is used to driving without them?
If you're used to driving without assists there's no reason to use assists online either (except ABS). Assists don't make you faster (other than help you stay on track without spinning) but can make you slower (TC) so you're definitely not at disadvantage if you can handle everything without assists. In Sport mode all assists are permitted but in the higher ranked lobbies you see that most people don't use them, because they're faster without.
 
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There's no advantage to racing with ABS off as far as I know.
Weak is faster in karts, and the odd other car/track combo, but default ABS is still the going “standard”, as far as I know.

And the only time TCS is really worth it, is in the rain. Otherwise yours always faster without it, once you learn to manage your throttle.
 
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I like the challenge of racing with assists off, but if it puts me at a disadvantage online, and if it's okay to race with them on, then maybe I should change the way I race. Then again, ABS has no down-side (as meekrab points out) but I believe that TC and ASM slow one down through the twisties. Does anyone have any notion of just how much it can slow one down if one is used to driving without them?
Around lake maggiore in the human comedy mission my lap times improved by nearly 1.5 seconds after learning how to drive without TC using the same car. I’m not sure how that would translate to online racing
 
Generally the majority of people run ABS at default as the general consensus is that this is best although I have heard a few that run it at weak although I cannot speak to the difference as I have never tried it (I run default).

TC is faster is you are going to continually spin out without it but I will generally use TC1 if tyre saving/management is required in a race as it helps to reduce a lot of wheel spin without slowing you down a whole lot
 
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Thanks for your thoughts on this everyone. I’ll carry on as I am (without assists except ABS) but will keep practicing before venturing online as I note that now I’m racing GT3 cars, some of them e.g. the Mazda RX-Vision GT3 Concept) are mighty fast but when they snap on an exit, they snap so fast that they are almost impossible to catch without spinning. This means that I ace most of my races (with AI cars) when using these cars, but when I give it a millimetre too much throttle on an exit, it’s game over!

What I hadn’t considered is using TC in the wet or for fuel saving …how stupid of me! I’d forgotten that you can adjust the TCS mid-race via the MFD. I race in VR with a McLaren GT3 wheel so I guess I’m going to have to practice using the toggle switches blind too. In summary, if most of the drivers in the higher ranked lobbies race with TCS and ASM off then that is where I aspire to be, so that is how I will continue to train. Thanks again 👍

Edit: From the GT7 Manual…

ABS
Adjust the effectiveness of your ABS (anti-lock braking system), which prevents tyres from locking when you brake. At the 'Default' setting, the braking force of all four wheels is controlled, and part of the tyres' grip is allocated to turning force. Using the 'Weak' setting deactivates this restriction, which makes it suitable for more skilled drivers. Selecting 'Off' deactivates the ABS altogether.


…it looks like this is where I got the idea that it’s better to use 'weak' ABS although I still don’t understand exactly how this works i.e. "part of the tyres' grip is allocated to turning force". Maybe it becomes easier to trail-brake in 'weak' mode.
 
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I've been using ABS weak since the physics update patch because I found I was understeering more with GT3 cars trailbraking on the default setting, personally it felt like ABS weak was around the same setting as the previous default but really have no way to prove that.

I do TC off except yeah I'll toggle it as needed in certain circumstances where I'm struggling with grip / in slick conditions. Also from a grid start on high powered vehicles like the SF cars I find it easier to get a good start with TC1/2 than leaving it on 0. Actually with that car I just prefer TC 1 in general. Most of the time I do keep TC 0 unless I feel like the risk isn't worth it. Online I usually stick to TC 1.
 
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I’ll carry on as I am (without assists except ABS) but will keep practicing before venturing online as I note that now I’m racing GT3 cars, some of them e.g. the Mazda RX-Vision GT3 Concept) are mighty fast but when they snap on an exit, they snap so fast that they are almost impossible to catch without spinning
Honestly don't be afraid of using TC and don't listen to all the purest that say "yOu'Re SlOwEr wItH tRaCtIoN cOnTrOl On". Yes this is true when you are in the top split lobbies but when starting out not so much. You will be surprised with how many people actually use TC in the online races and again if it prevents you from spinning out, then it is already making you faster. Also since the last physics model update a few updates ago the traction control system was modified so that tc1 is a lot less intrusive now and will actually hardly come on if you drive smoothly enough.
 
There's no advantage to racing with ABS off as far as I know.
Without ABS you can really cramp down hard on the brakes just before you enter a corner, then let up a little as the wheels begin to lock. Turning it off gives you the chance to shorten your stopping distances and, more importantly, reduce the time you have to be on the brakes.
ABS is stomp and steer...and no finesse. Keep in mind some of these cars were built IRL with ABS, I think you absolutely should use it on those.
All this goes for countersteer assist as well. In real life it may be known as Rear Antilock.
Online I'd run the assists at first. If you knock an AI into the wall it won't care but human opponents will and you get all kinds of reactions out of people.
Overall the fewer assists you use, the faster you can potentially be, but if you're not hitting that potential, turn some stuff on. Also check your downforce and suspension settings, they can mean the difference in needing assists or not. Don't just grab someone's tune, spend a little time tuning your own cars and get a feel for what everything does.
 
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@roytheboy, I think the part about leaving some grip for steering just means the ABS activates so soon, it is before your tyre has reached total lock. So the tyre is not overwhelmed yet, and you could still steer if you wanted to.

Weak ABS feels ok to me and I often use it on real life ABS cars.

I highly recommend trying ABS off as an experiment, it can make you develop better pedal feel. If you do this, it's vital to adjust brake balance in many cars, some are so front biased as stock it'll lead to understeer. When you get the bias more rearwards it feels more eager to turn in, I like it just on the verge of being driftable.

Personally, I go through this stage, even if I'm going to turn ABS back on.

ABS off is not as mental as it used to be, as the latest physics model doesn't allow full lock. The "locked" wheel will squeal a bit but it's still turning a little in replays. Previously it'd stop dead, temp indicator red and smoke up a ton whilst sliding.
 
Since the physics update I've been experimenting with trail braking while having ABS set to 'Weak' and I like how it feels but I'm still getting slightly faster lap times having ABS set to 'Default'. Setting ABS 'Off' is good practice but I would not go racing online like that.

The traction control also got updated with the physics and the new '1' setting is actually not that bad. In the end you will be faster without any TC but if you're feeling just a little insecure I'd suggest giving that a try. You will build that confidence over time and that is an important factor in becoming a better driver.
 
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Right, I look a long lunch break and did some experimenting. Not having touched an F1 car since GT6 many years ago, I just bought a 2023 Super Formula car and, given that F1 is at Barcelona this weekend, I took it round Barcelona (no chicane) with ABS in ‘weak’ and ASM ‘off’ (as is my norm), but with TCS set to ‘1’. So this is an extreme car on a circuit that I’ve only driven a handful of times, and I entered an arcade race in ‘pro’ mode, up against the SF and F1 cars, super-mad Tomahawks and Bugattis that brake and corner very differently to F1 cars.

I went wide into the gravel before the closed-chicane on the last lap, but still managed P.2 on my first attempt. The next lap I took the win. This is not to say how wonderful I am (although obviously I’m a legend in my own tea break), but rather to highlight how TCS ‘1’ makes a huge difference in extreme racing. The car snatched a bit, especially on cold tyres, but it was recoverable with minimal fuss.

I then turned TCS off and tried again. After about six attempts and lots of spins, I finished within sight of the leader but it was not easy. I managed to recover about half of the snatches that my right foot induced (which is better than some powerful cars), but the ones that got the better of me dropped me way down the order!

Once I treated the car with great care on the exits i.e. like a powerful GT3 car, I managed to keep it on the track, but more importantly, in fast packs of quick-changing traffic, the TCS set to ‘1’ had obviously kept things far more manageable, and even though there is a noticeable loss of pick-up during fast exits, it is clearly a better option for races with heavy traffic e.g. online racing.

Conclusion: TCS is best ‘off' for time trials, but set to ‘1’ for online racing with GT3 or SF cars.

I then did some more races with ABS set to ‘off’, ‘weak’ and ‘default’. When clear of traffic, racing with ABS ‘off' was not a major issue as I could hear the squeal and lift very slightly. But when in traffic the squeal could not be heard and I ended up sliding into cars that I was late-breaking into hairpins with. This is obviously not desirable for online racing!

With ABS set to ’default’ I noticed that, as pointed out by shio, my attempts at trail-braking in the SF car (not easy at that speed) led to noticeable oversteer instead of the very thing you want: understeer and rotation. So ‘normal’ ABS is a big NO-NO for me.

With ABS set back to ‘weak’, everything felt manageable again and peace was restored in my VR universe.

Conclusion: ABS is best set to ‘weak’ at all times.

Talking about VR: The SF cars in VR without the HUD (the wheel shows laps and gears) is an awesomely immersive experience. Every time I think GT7 can’t get any better in VR, it just blows me away yet again! If you don’t have a PSVR2, you really don’t know what you’re missing.
 
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Cool, glad to hear you found settings that you think will work best for you. One other thing on the topic of netplay, I'm also pretty new to online racing, the first few races were pretty rough because I was grouped in with low SR drivers, lots of punting and intentionally bad racing. I focus heavily on trying to race consistently and avoid incidents to prioritize SR. After the ladder system adjusted my rankings accordingly, I started getting into much better races starting around DR D SR S. Just wanted to give a heads up because being pitted against players with low SR can lead to very frustrating scenarios.

So yeah, things like TC and ABS settings in general I prioritize consistency, hence why I think some TC online is definitely the way to go. That and if you spin out in single player, you'll probably be able to catch the AI anyways whereas online it's a disaster and it'll be very difficult to regain lost positions.
 
Cool, glad to hear you found settings that you think will work best for you. One other thing on the topic of netplay, I'm also pretty new to online racing, the first few races were pretty rough because I was grouped in with low SR drivers, lots of punting and intentionally bad racing. I focus heavily on trying to race consistently and avoid incidents to prioritize SR. After the ladder system adjusted my rankings accordingly, I started getting into much better races starting around DR D SR S. Just wanted to give a heads up because being pitted against players with low SR can lead to very frustrating scenarios.

So yeah, things like TC and ABS settings in general I prioritize consistency, hence why I think some TC online is definitely the way to go. That and if you spin out in single player, you'll probably be able to catch the AI anyways whereas online it's a disaster and it'll be very difficult to regain lost positions.
Thanks for the heads up. I spent years racing for real where every collision had financial consequences as well as having to face the other driver in parc ferme after the race. So even when racing the AI, I do my very best to avoid other cars and give the other drivers space. I had a reputation as a gentleman driver and was proud of it. After my memories of the few times I played online with GT6 some years ago, I'm not looking forwards to stepping out among the great unwashed who don't give a damn. I will soon be posting for advice about how best to mix it with the right people online, but first I need to make absolutely sure that I can get round the various circuits in heavy traffic without hitting anyone.
 
Thanks for the heads up. I spent years racing for real where every collision had financial consequences as well as having to face the other driver in parc ferme after the race. So even when racing the AI, I do my very best to avoid other cars and give the other drivers space. I had a reputation as a gentleman driver and was proud of it. After my memories of the few times I played online with GT6 some years ago, I'm not looking forwards to stepping out among the great unwashed who don't give a damn. I will soon be posting for advice about how best to mix it with the right people online, but first I need to make absolutely sure that I can get round the various circuits in heavy traffic without hitting anyone.
I wish everyone playing GT7 online was like you
 
Great writeup Roy. If you could handle ABS off in a SF car then you've clearly got good feel. I personally find the throttle is twitchier, like you said, and so sometimes use TCS 1 in the high powered cars, especially in the wet. Racing tyres have a very sharp grip edge, after which you're dead.

... But I noticed you raced in real life, so you've probably already got better feel than most playstation drivers. What did you used to race? Got anything tasty as a daily driver?
 
Right, I look a long lunch break and did some experimenting. Not having touched an F1 car since GT6 many years ago, I just bought a 2023 Super Formula car and, given that F1 is at Barcelona this weekend, I took it round Barcelona (no chicane) with ABS in ‘weak’ and ASM ‘off’ (as is my norm), but with TCS set to ‘1’. So this is an extreme car on a circuit that I’ve only driven a handful of times, and I entered an arcade race in ‘pro’ mode, up against the SF and F1 cars, super-mad Tomahawks and Bugattis that brake and corner very differently to F1 cars.

I went wide into the gravel before the closed-chicane on the last lap, but still managed P.2 on my first attempt. The next lap I took the win. This is not to say how wonderful I am (although obviously I’m a legend in my own tea break), but rather to highlight how TCS ‘1’ makes a huge difference in extreme racing. The car snatched a bit, especially on cold tyres, but it was recoverable with minimal fuss.

I then turned TCS off and tried again. After about six attempts and lots of spins, I finished within sight of the leader but it was not easy. I managed to recover about half of the snatches that my right foot induced (which is better than some powerful cars), but the ones that got the better of me dropped me way down the order!

Once I treated the car with great care on the exits i.e. like a powerful GT3 car, I managed to keep it on the track, but more importantly, in fast packs of quick-changing traffic, the TCS set to ‘1’ had obviously kept things far more manageable, and even though there is a noticeable loss of pick-up during fast exits, it is clearly a better option for races with heavy traffic e.g. online racing.

Conclusion: TCS is best ‘off' for time trials, but set to ‘1’ for online racing with GT3 or SF cars.

I then did some more races with ABS set to ‘off’, ‘weak’ and ‘default’. When clear of traffic, racing with ABS ‘off' was not a major issue as I could hear the squeal and lift very slightly. But when in traffic the squeal could not be heard and I ended up sliding into cars that I was late-breaking into hairpins with. This is obviously not desirable for online racing!

With ABS set to ’default’ I noticed that, as pointed out by shio, my attempts at trail-braking in the SF car (not easy at that speed) led to noticeable oversteer instead of the very thing you want: understeer and rotation. So ‘normal’ ABS is a big NO-NO for me.

With ABS set back to ‘weak’, everything felt manageable again and peace was restored in my VR universe.

Conclusion: ABS is best set to ‘weak’ at all times.

Talking about VR: The SF cars in VR without the HUD (the wheel shows laps and gears) is an awesomely immersive experience. Every time I think GT7 can’t get any better in VR, it just blows me away yet again! If you don’t have a PSVR2, you really don’t know what you’re missing.
I can't see over the SF's "hood" with the VR headset on. The F1500 is a fantastic drive with it, but I can't help thinking the display above the gouges should be lit. I haven't tried the Honda or the MP4/4 with VR yet.
The 787B is also a good run and all the important stuff works right there on the dash. I ran a no stopper at Spa yesterday on 65 liters of fuel and RS tires. I noticed that the low fuel display never lit, but it does light around 15 liters if you don't have enough to finish the race.
I know the Raptor also has a low fuel warning in real life. In my truck it lights at either 45 or 85 miles remaining depending on user preferences. I'll have to check it in VR to see if it turns on automatically like it should. All the modern Ford street and SVT vehicles should have that. The Raptor should also have a rear view camera.
 
I can't see over the SF's "hood" with the VR headset on. The F1500 is a fantastic drive with it, but I can't help thinking the display above the gouges should be lit. I haven't tried the Honda or the MP4/4 with VR yet.
The 787B is also a good run and all the important stuff works right there on the dash. I ran a no stopper at Spa yesterday on 65 liters of fuel and RS tires. I noticed that the low fuel display never lit, but it does light around 15 liters if you don't have enough to finish the race.
I know the Raptor also has a low fuel warning in real life. In my truck it lights at either 45 or 85 miles remaining depending on user preferences. I'll have to check it in VR to see if it turns on automatically like it should. All the modern Ford street and SVT vehicles should have that. The Raptor should also have a rear view camera.
The trick to adjusting your viewing position in VR is to move your head just before the game switches into VR mode. With most cars this means tucking your head down and forwards just before the race starts, so that once you sit back up again in VR mode, you'll be higher in the seat and further back. Not all cars are the same though, and it also depends how tall you are in reality as to how the position in VR should be for you. Some cars need no seating position adjustment; others need lots.

As for the HUD, the most immersive experience is with everything 'off' so you only have the car's instruments in front of you, but unless you're in a GT car which shows your gear and laps on the wheel, you need to get an instinctive feel for the gears (going by the sounds) and you need to count the laps (unless you are at Goodwood). This is no different to real racing except that you would normally have a team-mate show you a board every lap with your position, laps remaining and times ahead and behind. I would love to see a pit-board when racing in VR, but I'm sure PD will sort something out before too long with regards to the HUD.

However, when you're racing for more than a few laps, or in the rain, or where fuel is important, you need to switch the HUD on (but not the other car markers as that ruins the immersion completely), and yes, there are definitely other things that need to be added to the VR HUD for competitive racing online where pit-stops are required (not that I have done this yet).
 
... I noticed you raced in real life, so you've probably already got better feel than most playstation drivers. What did you used to race? Got anything tasty as a daily driver?
Are you sitting comfortably? Have you poured yourself a cup of tea?…

I started kart racing in my late 30s, after a wild and adrenaline-soaked life in the services (RAF) involving lots of martial arts, sequential aerobatics, and riding road-motorbikes extremely fast to within inches of death almost every time I put my lid on. Yes, yes, I know: very irresponsible of me and a danger to other road users …I’m hanging my head in shame.

I have no idea how I’m still alive; seriously - I cheated death every weekend and I really don’t deserve to be living right now. But I’ll take it, even though now in my 60s I have a string of health issues that might just do to me what my flying and biking hobbies failed to do so many years ago.

I started hire-karting after working for some motorsport clients and being invited along for some corporate days. I was not particularly good (at all) and kept blaming the disparity in the karts when others sailed past me on the straights. I had no idea that the drivers were fast down the straights because they’d taken the previous bend perfectly and were now carrying that speed increase to great effect to sail past me with ease.

Then I took part in some hire-kart championships but I still wasn’t any good. I am 6’2” tall and weigh far more than the whipper-snapper lightweight kids that used to romp away to the finish line thinking they were the next Ayrton Senna. I became despondent and very nearly quit karting, but one of my clients was a racing driver and he spent some time with me in a ProMax kart with a data recorder, and generally opened my eyes to the amount of technique involved in managing tyres and getting good lap times. It’s a science!

From there I was asked to join and manage an endurance hire-karting team, because I seem to have a knack for racing strategy and man-management (which comes from years as an NCO), which then led onto Owner/Driver endurance kart racing which is an entirely different league/planet to hire-karting, and which requires levels of fitness of an athlete (which I already had).

We raced our own Rotax Max karts for hours at a time on sticky sprint tyres, and it’s difficult to describe the strength and stamina required to withstand the G-forces involved for so long. My racing driver client told me that between 2-stroke karting and Formula One, no other racing series (at the time) involved the same toll of G-forces on the body.

Oh, and O/D karting involves adding weights to the kart to reach a set threshold, so provided one keeps oneself reasonably trim, one can race without any disadvantage of size …what an eye-opener that was! I studied books about racing, practiced a lot, and slowly became a better racer and did well in karting. I travelled the country and had literally hundreds of trophies with which to clutter up my house.

At age 50 I had to undergo major spine surgery (too much knock-down karate) which put paid to my racing days. But I’m back now (in my 60s) with my VR headset in one hand and a copy of GT7 in the other, looking to recover whatever racing thrills I can find in the virtual world.

Trail-braking is new to me as a kart only has brakes on its fixed rear axle. One needs to lift the inside wheel of a kart off the deck to rotate it round hairpins (because of the fixed rear axle), so a race-kart corners completely differently to a car. Just about the only transferrable driving skills between Rotax-Max karting and GT7 is handling the power and feeling the tyres when on the limit.

A Rotax-Max kart will spin-out every time if you floor the throttle in a bend. Unlike a hire-kart, it has lots of piston-screaming power, so you need to learn how to be gentle through the bends and how to feed the power in gradually ...just like driving a GT3 or FS car in GT7 without any traction control. Basically, you steer the kart with the throttle and whilst you can’t do this in most GT7 cars because they snap-out too violently, except for maybe the Radical (my favourite kart-like GT7 car), it does give me an edge, I think, when it comes to handling the bigger cars. It also helps when exiting fast bends because the technique there is the same for Rotax-Max karting as for GT7 racing: control the line of your exit with the throttle so that you kiss the kerb to use the whole width of the track without digging the tyres in (which loses speed).

But where O/D karting definitely has transferable skills is in the area of race-craft, which is exactly the same for all levels of motorsport, which is why all F1 drivers start out in 2-stroke karts. Knowing when to dive in on the brakes and when to have patience is a skill. Being able to anticipate the driver in front so that you can line up the overtake two or three bends in advance is a skill. Being patient enough to lull the other driver into a particular line is a skill. And so is learning how to overtake on the very edge whilst also giving the other driver room to stay on the track.

As racers, we would all share the same space in parc ferme after the race. We were all fighting-fit, testosterone-fuelled grown men, so you don’t want to go punting them off into the tyres, leaving them with a bill for thousands (karting is not cheap at the sharp end) just because you took a reckless chance at a late lunge. Accidents happen due to miscalculations but you need to be able to genuinely hold your hands up and say sorry; I cocked up! …and then buy the beers. If you get a good rep, others repay that rep in kind, and it’s why I always raced wearing a bright yellow race suit sitting in a bright yellow kart …so that the driver in front knew who was behind.

Racecraft takes years to learn and there’s nothing better than racing wheel-to-wheel, side-by-side through a long series of bends with a fellow clean racer, each giving the other room and respect, even though your open wheels are dangerously millimetres apart at eye-watering speeds. This is what I would dearly love to rediscover in the VR world of GT7. I am undoubtedly going to be sorely disappointed once I get online (I tried it in GT6 and know what’s out there), but I’m hoping that once I get good enough in GT7, and provided age has not depleted my racing skills (a distinct possibility), that I might be able to recapture at least some of the camaraderie of my karting days, even if it is all virtual. Anyone up for giving it a go?

In terms of daily rides: I mainly hung off the side of bikes for my thrills but I’ve always had reasonably fast cars. I had a Signal Yellow RS2000 in the early 80’s, when that car was ‘the car’ to have. I currently drive a 2 litre GLA with extra-low AMG suspension. It’s not a rocket-ship but spin up the turbo, knock it into ‘paddle mode’ and it doesn’t hang about! Which reminds me of a story to finish this way-too-long tome…

I’ve been spending so much time in VR lately, learning to ride every kerb in order to maximise my exit speeds (which you don’t do in real endurance racing if you want the car to last more than twenty minutes), that when driving my GLA last week and overtaking a sloooooow car whilst exiting a roundabout on a dual-carriageway, without thinking I automatically rode the sloped exit kerb. Road exit kerbs are sloped but only just; not near-flat like a race circuit. Needless to say, the car made it back down onto the road (I have very quick reactions) but with a bit of a wake-up call: “Oy, you dozy git; you’re not in a GT3 car now!” Note to self: try to separate real life from GT7 in VR!

…well you did ask! 🙄 😆
 
The trick to adjusting your viewing position in VR is to move your head just before the game switches into VR mode. With most cars this means tucking your head down and forwards just before the race starts, so that once you sit back up again in VR mode, you'll be higher in the seat and further back. Not all cars are the same though, and it also depends how tall you are in reality as to how the position in VR should be for you. Some cars need no seating position adjustment; others need lots.

As for the HUD, the most immersive experience is with everything 'off' so you only have the car's instruments in front of you, but unless you're in a GT car which shows your gear and laps on the wheel, you need to get an instinctive feel for the gears (going by the sounds) and you need to count the laps (unless you are at Goodwood). This is no different to real racing except that you would normally have a team-mate show you a board every lap with your position, laps remaining and times ahead and behind. I would love to see a pit-board when racing in VR, but I'm sure PD will sort something out before too long with regards to the HUD.

However, when you're racing for more than a few laps, or in the rain, or where fuel is important, you need to switch the HUD on (but not the other car markers as that ruins the immersion completely), and yes, there are definitely other things that need to be added to the VR HUD for competitive racing online where pit-stops are required (not that I have done this yet).
The SF cars have that halo, though. If the game thinks my head is too high, all I can do is look straight ahead. If I turn my head at all I get the green lines. The PSVR2 is working correctly, it's the fact there's no headroom in the SF19 or SF23. The whole car is one big crash helmet.
I'll just enjoy them on a flat screen, they still work well that way. The visual trick you described works well for others cars though. Imagine my surprise when the Raptor's wheel was on my nose. I had to go hop into my own truck to make sure it's not like that in real life!
 
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Only assist I always use is ABS. I don't think there's any benefit in not using it. Even the pros use it.

As far the rest I try to leave them all off. Every once in a blue moon I might use weak countersteer assist because I'm on controller, and even less often I might set TC to 1 depending on the type of car and how worn the tires are. Never more than 1, or it slows you down way too much. But most of the time I try and practice until I'm at the point that I can keep the car under control without any as they generally will slow you down.
 
The SF cars have that halo, though. If the game thinks my head is too high, all I can do is look straight ahead. If I turn my head at all I get the green lines. The PSVR2 is working correctly, it's the fact there's no headroom in the SF19 or SF23. The whole car is one big crash helmet.
I'll just enjoy them on a flat screen, they still work well that way. The visual trick you described works well for others cars though. Imagine my surprise when the Raptor's wheel was on my nose. I had to go hop into my own truck to make sure it's not like that in real life!
I don't have a problem finding a good starting position (for the head) for the SF23 or the F1500, or for turning my head when driving these two cars - you just have to experiment and then do your best to remember that pose. It’s not an ideal situation but it works; just start with your head in the opposite place to where you want it to be when driving. For example, if there's a roll-bar blocking a large amount of your view to the left, move your head to the left when you start and the game will position your head further to the right. In this particular case the wheel will be slightly off centre but it’s still doable. If your head is too high, start with it higher in the seat. If it helps, you can pause the game, adjust your head position, then continue the game. Or you can press the headset button for the view of your room/rig - they all reset your head position.

As for the green cage of darkness appearing mid-game, yes, some cars get this annoying 'feature' more than others, but it seems to be the cars that would ordinarily expect your body to be strapped tightly into the seat e.g. the SF and some GT3 cars, or the cars that you might move about in a lot in e.g. the off-road Raptors and the like. The solution here is to wear a harness which (a) helps massively with the experience of immersion, and (b) stops you moving your head out of the play area and into the green cage of darkness. But then the harness prevents you moving to the ideal starting position (for VR), and it’s not particularly comfortable to have straps between your legs on a hot day when your sweating enough as it is. But I have a solution for that too.

I bought a roll of red seatbelt webbing from fleebay, and made a frame that pokes through the base of the back of my GT Omega race seat such that it anchors two halves of the seat belt each side of my waist. I then found some plastic pipe that I cut up such that it fits over the bottom of the strap holes in the back of my seat (to allow the belts to move easily through the seat holes/guides). I then anchored the top of the two belts (once now hanging through the seat holes) to a wooden batten and attached four military blousing straps between the batten and the lower anchor frame at the rear of the seat. The whole thing cost me about £20 to make, I seem to recall, and whilst it allows me to move forwards to position my head as required at the start of a race, and also to pull the two torso straps forwards in order to get in the seat behind the straps, it also has enough tension to give me that 'strapped in' feeling and to stop me wanting to move about too much in my seat …especially when off-roading in a Raptor, which felt entirely natural to me when immersed in VR but which looked utterly bizarre to my GF when she walked past my office/playroom to see me moving about in my racing seat as I instinctively tried to counter the movement of my bucking Raptor!

Anyway, I wrote-up my recent attempts at fitting my rig with isolated haptic feedback and posted it as a blog on my business website. That seems to be quite popular, so I’ll do the same with my elasticated-half-harness idea in case it’s of any use to anyone. I’ll try and do so over the coming week or two.
 
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Folks: what are your thoughts on ASM?

I've never used ASM before but I just enabled it for the online Le Sarthe time trail with the Porsche 962 C and instantly found an extra second ...only nine more to find now! ASM 'should' brake the front or rear of the car if one or the other gets out of line, so if you drive smoothly and on the right side of 'the ragged edge', it should never kick in unless needed (I think). But this means that in theory, one cannot rotate the car on the throttle around a tight apex, for example. But when it comes to driving a beast of a Le Mans car round Le Sarthe, I'm more interested in keeping the car facing forwards than worrying about the finesse of apex-car-rotation, so having to worry less about every single mm of throttle movement makes for a more engaging drive, even if I'm theoretically losing some power in places. Does anyone have any strong thoughts on this particular assist?
 
Folks: what are your thoughts on ASM?

I've never used ASM before but I just enabled it for the online Le Sarthe time trail with the Porsche 962 C and instantly found an extra second ...only nine more to find now! ASM 'should' brake the front or rear of the car if one or the other gets out of line, so if you drive smoothly and on the right side of 'the ragged edge', it should never kick in unless needed (I think). But this means that in theory, one cannot rotate the car on the throttle around a tight apex, for example. But when it comes to driving a beast of a Le Mans car round Le Sarthe, I'm more interested in keeping the car facing forwards than worrying about the finesse of apex-car-rotation, so having to worry less about every single mm of throttle movement makes for a more engaging drive, even if I'm theoretically losing some power in places. Does anyone have any strong thoughts on this particular assist?
If it makes you feel more comfortable on the track, use it.
Ultimately it all depends on how competitive you are looking to be.

If you want to aim for the top 500 times, I would start by learning good trail braking and throttle control techniques.
The group C cars are a handful and require a very soft progressive throttle on tighter exits.

Open up a replay from one of the top guys, enable the metrics from replay options, and only focus on the braking and throttle inputs on screen to get an idea how they're properly done in GT7.

Also, there are only very few cases in GT7 where you want to control the car with the throttle in corners.
Usually in tight corners, it's all about entry speed, carrying that speed, and getting on the throttle as early as possible, without compromising exit speed.

Disclaimer.
The above is what worked for me and might not suit everyone else.
I'm still a work in progress, but getting decent times in TT's as of late.
 
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