Audi R8 Ultra Team Phoenix

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GTP_Monkey

May the force be with you
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Top Valley, NG5
Is any one else having problems with this car, The back end breaks away far to easy making it virtually undrivable. I've tried every thing suspension and diff but to no avail. I can manage to drive a LMP with no aids but this Audi is my nightmare.

Any advice please.
 
try this....

TIRES: RACING HARD

RIDE HEIGHT: FRONT 63, REAR 54

SPRING RATE: FRONT 20.40, REAR 28.03

DAMPERS COMPRESSION: FRONT 7, REAR 9

DAMPERS EXTENSION: FRONT 7, REAR 9

ANTI ROLL BARS: FRONT 6, REAR 7

CAMBER: FRONT 0.0, REAR 0.0

TOE: FRONT +1.00, REAR +1.00

BRAKE BALANCE: FRONT 9, REAR 8

INITIAL TORQUE: REAR 12

ACCELERATION SENSITIVITY: 5

BRAKING SENSITIVITY: 8

DOWNFORCE: FRONT 385, REAR 870

im using ds3 so i dont know if it will work with steering wheels...tuned with stage 3 engine and high rpm turbo so the handling is even better w/o them...tested in silverstone, sarthe w/ chicanes, cape ring (full), & nurburgring...its very stable...you will only spin out if you got outside the track and if you dont dont feather the acceleration specially in uneven surface...i dont race aggressive, i brake early...its tuned for that playstyle
 
Well in my opinion the problem with R8 is the not the fact that it's quite tail happy for a GT3 car (it's an MR car so that's quite obvious it requires special driving techniques), but rear end looses grip unpredictably. It's driveable though, but full time focus is necessary.
 
I wonder if all the R8s are this bad ? My advice sell it save up 1.7mil for a maclaren f1 '95 That should put a smile on your face.
 
I've hot-lapped both the V8 and V10 R8's at Suzuka and found nothing wrong with their handling. I did not try the Team Phoenix version yet. What struck me as odd is that there's virtually no difference between the two with the way I drive, and I use a DS3, steering sensitivity 7, ABS-1, everything else off. The V8 is lighter and peak power comes on sooner.

2:14.579 - 2009 Audi R8 5.2 FSI Quattro - 518 hp @ 8000 rpm, 391 ft-lbs @ 6500 rpm, 1620 kg, 540 pp.
2:14.954 - 2007 Audi R8 4.2 FSI R Tronic - 414 hp @ 7500 rpm, 317 ft-lbs @ 4500 rpm, 1560 kg, 516 pp.
 
I don't find anything wrong with the AWD road-going R8s.

It's the RWD LMS cars that are problematic. Either they have really bad suspension tuning out of the box, or a generic problem with MR cars in GT6.
 
The worst-handling MR car I've found so far is the 1997 Toyota MR2 GT-S. Makes me want to rip my hair out trying to keep the back end in line around a corner.
 
Just bought the AUDI LMS Ultra Team Phoenix on my last play session, the car was tricky with original stock settings ( imbalance in grip due to the way the car was setup ), but after I fiddle a bit with LSD, suspension and brake balance, it's very fun to drive even with medium high downforce.
 
I took my wheel out (first time in GT6), turned of all aids (first time!) and realized this car is as fantastic as in GT5.

I used a tune from the tuning forum....
 
I took my wheel out (first time in GT6), turned of all aids (first time!) and realized this car is as fantastic as in GT5.

I used a tune from the tuning forum....

It wasn't in GT5
 
I know.... I was referring to "R8 LMS" cars in general.


OK your on about the 2009 LMS, the 2009 was in GT5 and also here in GT6 and does drive nicely. The thread tiltle is the 2012 pheonix R8 LMS the blue and yellow one above, maybe your post shoul;d have been more explisit as your post lead me to believe you had an easy ride in the Pheonix. The newer R8 LMS cars were not in GT5, Go buy the team pheonix its a beast to drive with a good setup it is drivable but nowhere near competive in online racing against other good drivers whereas the 2009 is.
 
OK your on about the 2009 LMS, the 2009 was in GT5 and also here in GT6 and does drive nicely. The thread tiltle is the 2012 pheonix R8 LMS the blue and yellow one above, maybe your post shoul;d have been more explisit as your post lead me to believe you had an easy ride in the Pheonix. The newer R8 LMS cars were not in GT5, Go buy the team pheonix its a beast to drive with a good setup it is drivable but nowhere near competive in online racing against other good drivers whereas the 2009 is.

Been driving that car and it handles like it should. Love it, as long as you don't use any aids.. And of course know how to drive.

Before you start again, no, I don't play online
 
Been driving that car and it handles like it should. Love it, as long as you don't use any aids.. And of course know how to drive.

Before you start again, no, I don't play online

Sorry i wasn't having a go at you at all. I have tried every tune posted and several variations of my own and find it terrible far worse then even a stock F40 on SH as apposed to the pheonix on either R/H or R/S and I dont ues any aids other than ABS 1
I would say my driving and tuning is very good being able to control LMP class racing cars with only ABS 1 In GT% i was able to take LMP/Group C cars around the Nordshliefe under 5.30 with only ABS 1 with my fastest 5.19.xxx in the peugeot 905 and online at that. I just cannot get my head round the later/newer R8 LMS cars the 2009 is fine.
 
Don't brake and turn, brake in a straight line, that means braking early if you have to. When you downshift, heel and toe so it doesn't break grip. Enter corners with throttle somewhat on to keep weight from transferring to the front, maintaining traction. That applys to all of the "trouble" cars with me, the only hard part was heel and toeing after downshifting but doable with practice. The most important part is to never steer with an empty throttle, as maintaining weight from transferring is the only way you can maintain grip.
 
I only have 1 problem its on slow corners IE 40 to 50 mph in 3rd gear revs at 4000rpm the back just spins right round even with no throttle and not entering corners too fast either, Faster corners no problems. It happens mostly on smooth tracks like Silverstone at the 2 90% bends just before the final bend to the finnish.
 
I only have 1 problem its on slow corners IE 40 to 50 mph in 3rd gear revs at 4000rpm the back just spins right round even with no throttle and not entering corners too fast either, Faster corners no problems. It happens mostly on smooth tracks like Silverstone at the 2 90% bends just before the final bend to the finnish.


Do you use wheel ? Try not to jerk the steering or change direction/make correction too quickly. Always maintain some throttle in mid corner, off throttle will unsettle the car in lower speed as there's no downforce to help plant the tires to the ground.

I would start with applying 2 way LSD, if you don't mind use this : initial 33, accel 30, brake 30, it might give a slight push on entry.

I'll post a tune soon :D
 
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to make the car drivable is quite easy but to make it competitive and consistent is hard. to make it for an average driver like me to handle easy you gota set it up to understeer but the problem is that such setup wears out front tyres really badly...

also gota stay away from curves, i dont know why but they make this car lose rear grip - all the other cars have no problems, i can cut corners or drive over them aggressively but this cars grip is so delicate you dont want to be anywhere but on tarmac when youre applying throttle.

is the real version of this car this complicated? how can it be competitive? the driver of this car has to fully focus all the time, be on the edge throughout exerting so much energy while getting passed by another driver in HSV-010 while he is driving with one hand, drinking coffee.lol
 
Just add weight and deal with the slower acceleration. Once the car is around 49/51 it becomes infintely more drivable (almost completely regardless of other setup settings).
 
at first i found this car weird to drive, but after a few laps on my favourite track and after adjusting the brakes its a car with good handling to me, you just got to get the feeling of it, but that's so with a lot of cars in the game. In gt5 i always searched for tunings that made a car easy to handle, but now i find it very interesting to just keep the standard settings and learn to feel the car, it's not that hard...
 
@GT6_Stig : Here is a simple tune fix that might help you :

Posted at my garage :

AUDI R8 LMS Ultra (Audi Sport Team Phoenix) '12 RIDOX ver. 528HP 1250kg
Tuned on Racing Hard





Specs
Horsepower: 528 HP at 8000 RPM
Torque: 397.8 ft-lb at 6500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1250 kg
Ballast : 0 kg
Ballast Position : 0
Weight Distribution : 45 / 55 as stock
Performance Points: 599


GT AUTO
No oil change yet - feel free to do so.
Improve Body Rigidity ( optional - not installed in this build ) - there's no bad side effect of this, highly recommended.
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : Stock




Tuning Parts Installed :
Racing Exhaust
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Adjustable LSD
Racing Brakes Kit



AERO :
Downforce Front / Rear : 400 / 900 ( MAX - adjust according to track ) - try to maintain 450-500 gap value between front and rear or adjust to suit your style ( less gap will make the car looser in high speed + slight top speed increase less rear used )



LSD - 2 way high preload
Initial Torque : 33
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 30
Keep initial / preload at 33, reduce accel and brake if wanted less sensitivity, I recommend ( accel/brake ) 24 / 24 or 18 / 18.


Suspension
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 70 70
Spring Rate: 11.24 15.97 ( soft setup )
Dampers (Compression): 4 3
Dampers (Extension): 4 1
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 2
Camber Angle: 2.4 0.0 ( alters the balance of grip between front and rear - higher camber up front reduce the front sensitivity to steering to make it less twitchy ) if increase rear camber, add rear to the front, say 3.0 front, rear 0.6
Toe Angle: 0.00 0.00 ( neutral ) - increase rear toe in if want more stability, I recommended no more than 0.24

For Spring Rate F/R- alternative medium setup : 14.44 / 20.50 or hard setup : 17.94 / 25.47 or super hard : 19.64 / 27.88 -TESTED


Transmission

Stock gearing, only alter final to suit track.
For Mt Panorama Bathurst I used 3.095 final and max aero.



Brake Balance - IMPORTANT IN THIS BUILD :
1/10 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 0/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance - but it would be preferable to use rear bias balance, for example : 2/10, 1/5 with ABS, find balance that suits your driving style. The rear bias helps greatly when braking.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 0/5 brake balance as starting point.




Notes :
This tune is made to help drivers tame the car, as the stock base setup is not very friendly and has too much front grip bias.

The camber quirk of zero value giving more instantaneous grip is used to alter the balance of the car when coasting and in mid corner to exit ( sustained grip during cornering seems to be fine and works as it should with camber changes ).
Brake balance set to rear bias helped the car under braking instability, the 2 way LSD also helped giving better traction both on and off throttle. All it takes some minor adjustment and the car becomes much better to drive, stable, and quick.

Tuned and tested at Brands Hatch GP, Bathurst, Silverstone Stowe, Apricot Hill, Nordschleife and Silverstone Full Track.

The R8 LMS Ultra Team Phoenix able to lap Brands Hatch GP at 1:25s easily ( stock gearing, medium high aero with the above tune ) and Mt Panorama Bathurst at 2:06s using max aero, 3.095 final + same tune above ( LSD and suspension ). All on Racing Hard, stock power no oil change.

The tune has also been tested with max power setup at over 900HP, works great, adjust gearing, aero and spring rate according to the track, enjoy :cheers:

A video of the car when tested during tuning session ( 2:07 at Mt Panorama ) :
 
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@GT6_Stig : Here is a simple tune fix that might help you :

This is how I tune the car so it's more stable under braking and cornering ( I don't use ABS or any other aids )

The car still has 528HP, no oil change. Racing Hard tires, easily capable of 1:25s at Brands Hatch GP and 2:08 at Bathurst.

Suspension F/R :

Ride height 70 70 ( go no lower than 65 65 on bumpy track ) I used 60 60 on Brands Hatch.
Spring : 11.24 15.97
Damper compression : 4 3
Damper Extension : 4 1
Ant Roll : 2 2
Camber : 2.4 0.0 ---important - rear at zero gives max possible grip on lower speed.
toe : 0.00 0.00 ( neutral as possible )

Camber hugely affect front and rear grip balance, due to the quirk in camber - zero camber = max grip. Higher camber front to compensate the too much grip at the front chassis ( this grip balance is inside car chassis code parameter )

Brake Balance : 1/10, yes, use this, 5/5 by default do not represent actual bias, the car bias parameter always has some degree of front bias, completely different than in GT5. Check by using 0/0 balance and brake without ABS, front will still lock first. R8 LMS has very front bias balance, 1/10 is used to make the rear more stable ( minimize too much weight shifted forward )


LSD :
Initial : 33
Accel : 36 or 30
Brake : 36 or 30

Use 2 way with high preload to minimize drastic changes during trail braking and exiting corners. Keep the initial high, lower accel and brake if 36 or 30 deemed too extreme. I would recommend 24 accel and 24 brake. If the car power increased, lower to 18 accel and 18 brake.

Lastly : Aero

Aero is for medium and higher speed cornering, you can use max aero 400/900 for technical and non high speed tracks. It's a matter of finding balance, always try ot have at least 450 to 500 gap value.

So, if using 200 front, set 500 rear; 400 front ( max ) use 900 rear ( max ), if the car becomes less responsive at high speed, reduce rear by 50 :D


NO ballast used. Keep it at 1250kg :) With more power, I would recommend full aero, increase front camber to 3.0 and keep rear 0.0. Increase toe in at rear to 0.14 or 0.28 and zero or -0.07 toe at front.

Hope this helps to make R8 LMS enjoyable.

Tune should work with ABS 1. Stay away from grass and curb ( rumble strip ), the car do not like these, it will pull to one side before you know it and oversteer then usually a spin or crash due to over correction that leads to snap oversteer :lol:


Thank you very much I will try this out as soon as i can get on the PS3 ( got to fit new lounge carpet this weekend so cannot get on yet) I really like this cars style and looks hence why i havent given up with it Thanks again for all the help and I will let you know how I get on.
 
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