The writer, like most reviewers, didn't get the full story. The console has two bits: A toggle button and a rolling dial. Look here for interior shots:
http://www.subaru.com/shop/overview.jsp?model=IMPREZA&trim=WRX_STI_SEDAN
I hate Shockwave image galleries....
When you turn the car on, the toggle defaults to off. This is echoed by a display on the dash between the fuel & temperature gauges. Pressing the toggle allows you to change the percentage of lockup between the front & rear wheels. You change that percentage (and can see the dash display change) by rolling the wheel forwards or backwards.
This change is really just how much you want to prevent the computer from controlling the torque split. Leaving it "open" or off, the computer is free to do whatever it feels is right, starting from 35:65 (in 2005, 2007 is 41:59), front:rear. Setting it to "locked", it stays at 50:50, helping you get through the snow...provided you don't stick with the otherwise great summer tires.
I can't find a manual for the STI on Subaru's website, but this explains it better:
http://www.rsportscars.com/eng/cars/impreza_wrx_sti.asp
You're not changing the percentage directly, but either letting it free or locking it up.
Yeah, much as I like safe cars, I don't like heavy cars. You'd think that a company that pioneered much of the modern work with aluminum in road cars would do a lot better, and not be beaten to the punch by Jaguar (bigger, stronger car in 2006 with about 400 lbs less weight). And it will take a major re-engineering of the A4 platform to fix the problem created by the German horsepower wars. Time was, the 1981 Quattro Sport was hardly considered a "pig".