B-Spec Nascar Championship: All Golds Tune Setup

[daddy mario]

Another perfect run. I used this twice and gold both times. With a new car my hp was way down, so I did Indy first, changed the oil, did Daytona, it took two turns to win while my horsepower built up, then with a gold at Daytona, I did the series and stopped before doing Daytona again.
Great job.

this is important to know as a new nascar car starts out at something like 825 hp and you have to use it and change the oil more than once to get it to 892 hp. so here's a question: would these settings be as good with an impala? because i have one already at 892... but i notice the PP are higher (with same hp) for a new camry that for a new impala. is the toyota really superior in some way?

edit: i was wrong about the PP: the difference was due to downforce that i had changed.

just want to add that this tune is the answer, and if you have trouble there's something in slayer's recommendations you missed. like you really have to get your car to 892 hp or close to it; one of the main reasons daytona seems so hard when indy is a cakewalk is that your car loses power race by race: i started the championship at 888 hp and finished at only 852. clearly if you start at around 850 (which is what one oil change gets you) there won't be much left for daytona where you need it most.

and at GV, reducing pace repeatedly is hard to convince yourself to do when you're stuck in 4th or 6th place, but by about lap 4 you'll be passing people up while reducing pace. in fact i found increase pace or overtake on the two straights he mentions doesn't even get you by any cars there. you should still do it to improve your total lap times but the passing comes in the tight turns.

as for the level of bob, i don't there's a problem with being over level 26; i did it with a 29... now 30. a star is born... thanks to slayer!

 

[saxplayer1998]

I just tried this exact tune to a tee because everything else I have tried has failed miserably and I had nothing to lose. First off, the tune itself is phenomenal, although on Laguna Seca 199 seems like a better top speed. And on Grand Valley you can do a full overtake on the short bridge and pace up on the long bridge. I got into first in about 4 laps. On Laguna Seca, you can overtake anywhere but the corkscrew, I got into first in 4 laps. Daytona, as it always has been, is a pain in the a** and 236 seems too low, on the straights, every car would blow by me.
My driver is level 40 and my car is the 2011 #24 Jeff Gordon Drive To End Hunger.

 

[Kobrix]

I know there's been quite a few of these posted, so here's another for those who can't find one that suits them or feel like experimenting.These are the tuning setups I used for the different tracks in the B-Spec NASCAR Championship. I started with a tune created by kebsM303 and tweaked it. This was done at level 24 with a level 24 driver. The car is a Joey Logano GameStop Toyota Camry with hard racing tires, the increased rigidity modification, an engine refresh, chassis refresh, and an oil change (892 HP).

INDIANAPOLIS
Top Speed: 236mph

Suspension:
Ride Height Adjustment: -20 Front, -20 Rear
Spring Rate: 18.5 Front, 19.0 Rear
Damper Extension: 9 Front, 10 Rear
Damper Compression: 4 Front, 4 Rear
Anti-Roll Bars: 6 Front, 7 Rear

Wheel Alignment:
Camber: 0.0 Front, 0.0 Rear
Toe: .00 Front, .02 Rear
Brakes: 0 Front, 0 Rear

LSD:
Initial Torque: 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Downforce: 50 Front, 70 Rear

Strategy: Push, Push, Push. Simply use overtake for the first lap or so and you should have the lead near the end of the first or beginning of the second lap. From there, increase pace continuously for a few laps to build a lead so the other cars cannot draft you. Once you've built a good lead, increase pace once or twice every lap to maintain a large gap between you and the rest of the field.

GRAND VALLEY
Top Speed: 211mph

Suspension:
Ride Height Adjustment: -20 Front, -20 Rear
Spring Rate: 18.5 Front, 19.0 Rear
Damper Extension: 9 Front, 10 Rear
Damper Compression: 4 Front, 4 Rear
Anti-Roll Bars: 6 Front, 7 Rear

Wheel Alignment:
Camber: 0.0 Front 0.0 Rear
Toe: .00 Front, .02 Rear
Brakes: 5 Front, 3 Rear

LSD:
Initial Torque: 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Downforce: 50 Front, 70 Rear

Strategy: Run slow for most of the track to preserve your tires. Overtake only on the long straight away at the finish line and the straight across the bridge. Opponents cars will eventually spin out and your driver should take the lead late in the 6th lap. Once he has the lead you can pretty much leave him alone as the other cars will continue to spin out and shouldnt catch him.

HIGH SPEED RING
Top Speed: 236mph

Suspension:
Ride Height Adjustment: -20 Front, -20 Rear
Spring Rate: 18.5 Front, 19.0 Rear
Damper Extension: 9 Front, 10 Rear
Damper Compression: 4 Front, 4 Rear
Anti-Roll Bars: 6 Front, 7 Rear

Wheel Alignment:
Camber: 0.0 Front 0.0 Rear
Toe: .00 Front, .02 Rear
Brakes: 5 Front, 3 Rear

LSD:
Initial Torque: 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Downforce: 50 Front, 70 Rear

Strategy: Here, simply use over take for the entire track, except for the long straight where I recommend using increase pace. When you get the lead, use increase pace continuously for a lap or two to get a decent lead. Once you have a good lead, just increase pace once or twice per lap to maintain it.

LAGUNA SECA
Top Speed: 211mph

Suspension:
Ride Height Adjustment: -20 Front, -20 Rear
Spring Rate: 18.5 Front, 19.0 Rear
Damper Extension: 9 Front, 10 Rear
Damper Compression: 4 Front, 4 Rear
Anti-Roll Bars: 6 Front, 7 Rear

Wheel Alignment:
Camber: 0.0 Front, 0.0 Rear
Toe: .00 Front, .02 Rear
Brakes: 5 Front, 3 Rear

LSD:
Initial Torque: 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Downforce: 50 Front, 70 Rear

Strategy: You can use overtake for most of the first half of the track. The places I recommend you slow down are the 1st turn (hairpin)and after the corkscrew until the long straight. Those seem to be places most prone to spinning. Use increase pace for the long straight, and overtake from the hairpin until the corkscrew. You should get the lead around lap 6 or 7. After that, give him an increase pace on the straight stretch of each lap to maintain your lead, and slow him down or maintain pace to save tires for the rest of the track.

DAYTONA
Top Speed: 236mph

Suspension:
Ride Height Adjustment: 0 Front, -15 Rear
Spring Rate: 18.5 Front, 19.0 Rear
Damper Extension: 9 Front, 10 Rear
Damper Compression: 4 Front, 4 Rear
Anti-Roll Bars: 6 Front, 7 Rear

Wheel Alignment:
Camber: 0.0 Front, 0.0 Rear
Toe: .00 Front, .02 Rear
Brakes: 0 Front, 0 Rear

LSD:
Initial Torque: 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Downforce: 50 Front, 70 Rear

Strategy: This seems to be the one everyone has trouble with. I got it on the first try with this setup. Basically the same as Indianapolis. Use overtake until you have the lead. You should have the lead by lap 3 or 4. Once you do, continuously use increase pace to build and maintain a lead so the other cars cannot draft you. You must do this continuously until the end of the race to win.

Hope this helps anyone who may be stuck , bored or both.

I know there's been quite a few of these posted, so here's another for those who can't find one that suits them or feel like experimenting.These are the tuning setups I used for the different tracks in the B-Spec NASCAR Championship. I started with a tune created by kebsM303 and tweaked it. This was done at level 24 with a level 24 driver. The car is a Joey Logano GameStop Toyota Camry with hard racing tires, the increased rigidity modification, an engine refresh, chassis refresh, and an oil change (892 HP).

INDIANAPOLIS
Top Speed: 236mph

Suspension:
Ride Height Adjustment: -20 Front, -20 Rear
Spring Rate: 18.5 Front, 19.0 Rear
Damper Extension: 9 Front, 10 Rear
Damper Compression: 4 Front, 4 Rear
Anti-Roll Bars: 6 Front, 7 Rear

Wheel Alignment:
Camber: 0.0 Front, 0.0 Rear
Toe: .00 Front, .02 Rear
Brakes: 0 Front, 0 Rear

LSD:
Initial Torque: 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Downforce: 50 Front, 70 Rear

Strategy: Push, Push, Push. Simply use overtake for the first lap or so and you should have the lead near the end of the first or beginning of the second lap. From there, increase pace continuously for a few laps to build a lead so the other cars cannot draft you. Once you've built a good lead, increase pace once or twice every lap to maintain a large gap between you and the rest of the field.

GRAND VALLEY
Top Speed: 211mph

Suspension:
Ride Height Adjustment: -20 Front, -20 Rear
Spring Rate: 18.5 Front, 19.0 Rear
Damper Extension: 9 Front, 10 Rear
Damper Compression: 4 Front, 4 Rear
Anti-Roll Bars: 6 Front, 7 Rear

Wheel Alignment:
Camber: 0.0 Front 0.0 Rear
Toe: .00 Front, .02 Rear
Brakes: 5 Front, 3 Rear

LSD:
Initial Torque: 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Downforce: 50 Front, 70 Rear

Strategy: Run slow for most of the track to preserve your tires. Overtake only on the long straight away at the finish line and the straight across the bridge. Opponents cars will eventually spin out and your driver should take the lead late in the 6th lap. Once he has the lead you can pretty much leave him alone as the other cars will continue to spin out and shouldnt catch him.

HIGH SPEED RING
Top Speed: 236mph

Suspension:
Ride Height Adjustment: -20 Front, -20 Rear
Spring Rate: 18.5 Front, 19.0 Rear
Damper Extension: 9 Front, 10 Rear
Damper Compression: 4 Front, 4 Rear
Anti-Roll Bars: 6 Front, 7 Rear

Wheel Alignment:
Camber: 0.0 Front 0.0 Rear
Toe: .00 Front, .02 Rear
Brakes: 5 Front, 3 Rear

LSD:
Initial Torque: 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Downforce: 50 Front, 70 Rear

Strategy: Here, simply use over take for the entire track, except for the long straight where I recommend using increase pace. When you get the lead, use increase pace continuously for a lap or two to get a decent lead. Once you have a good lead, just increase pace once or twice per lap to maintain it.

LAGUNA SECA
Top Speed: 211mph

Suspension:
Ride Height Adjustment: -20 Front, -20 Rear
Spring Rate: 18.5 Front, 19.0 Rear
Damper Extension: 9 Front, 10 Rear
Damper Compression: 4 Front, 4 Rear
Anti-Roll Bars: 6 Front, 7 Rear

Wheel Alignment:
Camber: 0.0 Front, 0.0 Rear
Toe: .00 Front, .02 Rear
Brakes: 5 Front, 3 Rear

LSD:
Initial Torque: 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Downforce: 50 Front, 70 Rear

Strategy: You can use overtake for most of the first half of the track. The places I recommend you slow down are the 1st turn (hairpin)and after the corkscrew until the long straight. Those seem to be places most prone to spinning. Use increase pace for the long straight, and overtake from the hairpin until the corkscrew. You should get the lead around lap 6 or 7. After that, give him an increase pace on the straight stretch of each lap to maintain your lead, and slow him down or maintain pace to save tires for the rest of the track.

DAYTONA
Top Speed: 236mph

Suspension:
Ride Height Adjustment: 0 Front, -15 Rear
Spring Rate: 18.5 Front, 19.0 Rear
Damper Extension: 9 Front, 10 Rear
Damper Compression: 4 Front, 4 Rear
Anti-Roll Bars: 6 Front, 7 Rear

Wheel Alignment:
Camber: 0.0 Front, 0.0 Rear
Toe: .00 Front, .02 Rear
Brakes: 0 Front, 0 Rear

LSD:
Initial Torque: 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Downforce: 50 Front, 70 Rear

Strategy: This seems to be the one everyone has trouble with. I got it on the first try with this setup. Basically the same as Indianapolis. Use overtake until you have the lead. You should have the lead by lap 3 or 4. Once you do, continuously use increase pace to build and maintain a lead so the other cars cannot draft you. You must do this continuously until the end of the race to win.

Hope this helps anyone who may be stuck , bored or both.

Let's talk about Grand Valley Speedway.

I've tried first at least 2 different setups of mine, no luck at all. The main issue being that in the middle of some corners, and much more out of many others, AI is giving way too much gaz, thus sliding. Almost impossible to win that way. Then I tried your setup above, exactly as described. It was slightly better but not that much. But it made me think of some other out of the box setups to try. I finally made it first with I think about 6 or 7 seconds lead.

I changed a couple things on your setup. I changed a bit the specifics on the suspension (dampers, toe, ... dont' remember the others, ha ! car lower at the back). But then the more interesting ones. I wanted the first gear to have a bit less torque, than I thought "why not change a bit the individual gears ?". I usually don't touch that, but I do think that helped a bit. So the idea was not that much about 3rd, 4th and final drive ratios, but more for the 1st and 2nd gear. I made them lower, to give less acceleration, forcing the AI to slide a bit less.

BUT I think, my real discovery was about the weight of the car. I'm pretty sure the new secret weapon is there. I really wanted the rear of the car to move way less under 1st and 2nd gear , so I made the back 200kg heavier (fully at the back). I think that the other changes I made to suspension had really barely helped compared to that weight shift to the back.

The idea here is that the car has more than enough power to catch up other cars on most short straights. But since it's sliding out of corners it always let the other cars easily pull away. If you can made the car not slide like that, I'm pretty sure that's the only real thing required to succeed in that specific race.

Just try it !

*If really required, I still have the full setup somewhere.

 

[JediKnight007]

Let's talk about Grand Valley Speedway.

I've tried first at least 2 different setups of mine, no luck at all. The main issue being that in the middle of some corners, and much more out of many others, AI is giving way too much gaz, thus sliding. Almost impossible to win that way. Then I tried your setup above, exactly as described. It was slightly better but not that much. But it made me think of some other out of the box setups to try. I finally made it first with I think about 6 or 7 seconds lead.

I changed a couple things on your setup. I changed a bit the specifics on the suspension (dampers, toe, ... dont' remember the others, ha ! car lower at the back). But then the more interesting ones. I wanted the first gear to have a bit less torque, than I thought "why not change a bit the individual gears ?". I usually don't touch that, but I do think that helped a bit. So the idea was not that much about 3rd, 4th and final drive ratios, but more for the 1st and 2nd gear. I made them lower, to give less acceleration, forcing the AI to slide a bit less.

BUT I think, my real discovery was about the weight of the car. I'm pretty sure the new secret weapon is there. I really wanted the rear of the car to move way less under 1st and 2nd gear , so I made the back 200kg heavier (fully at the back). I think that the other changes I made to suspension had really barely helped compared to that weight shift to the back.

The idea here is that the car has more than enough power to catch up other cars on most short straights. But since it's sliding out of corners it always let the other cars easily pull away. If you can made the car not slide like that, I'm pretty sure that's the only real thing required to succeed in that specific race.

Just try it !

*If really required, I still have the full setup somewhere.

I'd like to see those setups. I know there are no active GT5 garages anymore, but some people still play this game.

By the way, do your setups work for A-Spec? Sometimes I've done tunes for my Bobs, and while they did well with them, the car handled terrible for me.