Basic drift tune

  • Thread starter Ronbow
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Ronbow

(Banned)
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Connecticut
Ronbow63
If someone could give me a basic drift tune thatd be great i know u add camber and comfort hard what else
 
If someone could give me a basic drift tune that'd be great I know you add camber and comfort hard what else

Well.. everything changes depending on what you want from a car.. I guess I could give some basic technical information?

never go higher than 0.5 camber at the rear, it just spoils everything. For the front I will run somewhere between 1.0 and 2.0, higher than that gives the front too much grip in my opinion.

Softer springs at the rear will cause the car to rotate more, I personally try to keep my rear springs softer than the front.

The higher your spring rate the more grip you have, this isn't always a good thing but experiment with different values; my sweet spot seems to be somewhere around 6 - 9 depending on the car, however I've also had good experiences running very low and very high spring rates so it's really something you need to experiment with.

Having a slight + toe (0.2 - 0.4) on the front gives the car a nice feel and gives the front some extra grip, play around with your toe settings and find what works best for your style.

I try to keep my ARB around the same, usually 3 3. However if you tighten your ARB at the rear it can induce oversteer, conversely tightening the front induces understeer.

Having your ride hight lower at the front will increase oversteer and having the car lower overall increases grip.

My very base tune is usually this

[Suspension]
Lower ride height half of maximum allowance.
8.0 7.2
5 5
4 4
3 3

[Alignment]
1.2 0.3
0.02 0.10

[Differential]
5
60
60

[Brake Balance]

2 8

Then I'll work from there depending on the car.
(Wheel user)
 
Well.. everything changes depending on what you want from a car.. I guess I could give some basic technical information?

never go higher than 0.5 camber at the rear, it just spoils everything. For the front I will run somewhere between 1.0 and 2.0, higher than that gives the front too much grip in my opinion.

Softer springs at the rear will cause the car to rotate more, I personally try to keep my rear springs softer than the front.

The higher your spring rate the more grip you have, this isn't always a good thing but experiment with different values; my sweet spot seems to be somewhere around 6 - 9 depending on the car, however I've also had good experiences running very low and very high spring rates so it's really something you need to experiment with.

Having a slight + toe (0.2 - 0.4) on the front gives the car a nice feel and gives the front some extra grip, play around with your toe settings and find what works best for your style.

I try to keep my ARB around the same, usually 3 3. However if you tighten your ARB at the rear it can induce oversteer, conversely tightening the front induces understeer.

Having your ride hight lower at the front will increase oversteer and having the car lower overall increases grip.

My very base tune is usually this

[Suspension]
Lower ride height half of maximum allowance.
8.0 7.2
5 5
4 4
3 3

[Alignment]
1.2 0.3
0.02 0.10

[Differential]
5
60
60

[Brake Balance]

2 8

Then I'll work from there depending on the car.
(Wheel user)

Hey thanks man im praticing with the wheel
 
Hey thanks man im praticing with the wheel

Just keep in mind that a tune isn't going to magically make you a better drifter, a tune that works with your driving style will raise your potential and make it a bit easier on you but it's really about your driving style which is only going to come from practice.

I wish you the best of luck on your journey :)
 
Alternatively, my base tune: (try both and see what suits you.

Fully low Fully low
11 11
6 6
6 6
3 3

1.0 1.5
0 0

5
60
60

0 10 with no abs
 
Ignore the wall of text, here's something short and sweet:

Get an aristo ( whichever you think looks better out of the two)
All drivetrain mods except diff
Fully adjustable suspension (add 2* camber in front, leave rear at 0, and lower it all the way)
Close ratio 5spd transmission
engine: ecu, filter,cat, and sports exhaust ( you should have like 350hp)
Buy nothing else except wheels with ch tires.

Go to autumn ring mini and drive until you're linking it, then do whatever wll of text said.

Good luck!
 
Ignore the wall of text, here's something short and sweet:

Get an aristo ( whichever you think looks better out of the two)
All drivetrain mods except diff
Fully adjustable suspension (add 2* camber in front, leave rear at 0, and lower it all the way)
Close ratio 5spd transmission
engine: ecu, filter,cat, and sports exhaust ( you should have like 350hp)
Buy nothing else except wheels with ch tires.

Go to autumn ring mini and drive until you're linking it, then do whatever wll of text said.

Good luck!

LOL :lol: :lol:

Ronbow, my suggestion to you would be to ignore this ^ ^ ^, read that "wall of text", and follow both Urie's and Godfrey's suggestions.

In regards to the text in bold....in my opinion, suggesting to use a stock diff is poor advice for anyone, and especially for a beginner.

Also, if you are just starting out, I would not go to A-Ring mini first. Go to the double hairpins at Indy, and practice linking the two of them, goin back and forth. Once you get the hang of that, go to the s-curves high speed rig, and practice linking those two corners. Once you feel comfortable on those two section, then go to a track like Autumn Ring and start trying to link the whole thing.
 
if you're on a wheel try:

LSD:
20 15 15

Suspension:
Height F -5 R *as low as possible
SR F 9.4 R 4.0
Extention F 1 R 4
Compression F 10 R 2
ARB F 2 R 1

Camber F 2.0 R 0.8
Toe F -0.40 R 0.30

Brake balance: 5 3 (subjective)

Note: make sure your weight balance is around F48 R52
and the car puts out as much torque as it can in the low end.

This is my basic tune I throw on all my cars.
 
Ive actually found to much negative toe on the front made is alot harder to drift and lots of camber on the front actually help to initiate .

Camber 4.2 / 1.5-2.2
Toe -0.15 / +1.00.
Breaks 2 / 7 (ABS enabled)

As for suspension well thats just something youll have to figure out for yourself really as some ( like myself ) are heavy footed and need a stiffer front n softer rear.
 
I started learning on my 900 wheel on Tsukuba, helps you pick up the harder techniques very quickly, started basic tandeming within a couple of hours.
 
LOL :lol: :lol:

Ronbow, my suggestion to you would be to ignore this ^ ^ ^, read that "wall of text", and follow both Urie's and Godfrey's suggestions.

Thanks Twitcher, I'm glad someone appreciates my attention to detail.

Ignore the wall of text, here's something short and sweet:

I put a great deal of research and work into everything I post, I do my utmost to never misinform someone and as such my posts will be longer.

Calling it a "Wall of text" and "Something to be ignored" is quite frankly insulting, especially so when your own post contained misinformation and isn't going to help the OP learn.

My intention was to give him the fundamentals of how I tune a car for drifting so he can understand the basics, having that foundation when I was starting out rapidly increased my improvement and the improvement of my tunes.

I apologise if you think that it's far too long for anyone to be bothered to read because I didn't post a half arsed 3 paragraph response that made no attempt to help the OP learn how to do things for himself.
However I believe that is more your problem since the OP seemingly had no problem putting the marginal effort in to read what has taken me a great deal of time to fully understand and be able to put into words.
 
I started learning on my 900 wheel on Tsukuba, helps you pick up the harder techniques very quickly, started basic tandeming within a couple of hours.

But you had the benefit of being an experience drifter with the DS3 before you switched to the wheel, so you probably already had pretty intimate knowledge of Tsukuba. I was assuming that the OP is new to drifting in general, not just to wheel drifting. That's why I suggested starting with the easiest sections first.
 
But you had the benefit of being an experience drifter with the DS3 before you switched to the wheel, so you probably already had pretty intimate knowledge of Tsukuba. I was assuming that the OP is new to drifting in general, not just to wheel drifting. That's why I suggested starting with the easiest sections first.

I used to have a DFEX. The repetitive 180 harpins help you learn what you are doing wrong, I wasn't doing massive linking lines straight away, just slowly aproaching the corner and fainting.
 
I used to have a DFEX. The repetitive 180 harpins help you learn what you are doing wrong, I wasn't doing massive linking lines straight away, just slowly aproaching the corner and fainting.

Ya that makes sense actually. I think I assumed you meant the whole track...I should have known better :dunce:
 
Ya that makes sense actually. I think I assumed you meant the whole track...I should have known better :dunce:

I did :P, but you do 3 hairpins every lap, you can then gradually learn to catch transitions through the s-bend, and do your first high speed catches and corrections on the final corner. There's a lot of technique that can be trained there!
 
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