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Steele_obsidion

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So, Ive decided that since im NOT moving, and i sold my broke azz Fiero, im in the market for a new car, and as the title suggests.... BMW! ive wanted one, and been reading up on how they run great for long periods of time and what not, ive been lookin around Ann Arbor and Detroit Metro and so far ive found a few great things, to bad i have piss poor credit and i JUST started working at K fart, i found a TERRIFIC deal on a 745LI, for only 8K, it has 14,000 miles on it and was a sunday driver. im just gonna keep my eyes pealed.

so anyone have any suggestions? things i should look out for as far as a BMW? Quirks? anything to avoid? im looking for a Beemer between 1997-current, my price limit is about 8K, (though 8K is pushing it, im starting with about 6K when i get some cash, not including money from work) I'd like a car, soon. Seeing as how i dont have one.

so yes, thats my deal. pop in with ideas and suggestions.

Thanks!
 
I think the 1991-2000 E36 3-series will be your best bet. I don't know what the market is like over on the east side of the state, but we're swimming in "standard" 3-series models here on the west side. Otherwise, there are some assorted options that can go in all different directions.

Some models I see here:

2001 BMW 323ci - $7400

1997 BMW 525i - $7500

I'd have the 5er in that situation, particularly because of the low miles and the EGR location (rich people usually take care of their cars).

===

Otherwise, go for a nicely done Honda Accord. Cheap to run, cheap to insure, and you can get a lot of (newer) car for less than $10K.
 
Open your options than a BMW like how YSSMAN suggested. from what I hear that parts alone are expensive.
 
E36 M3s will fall into that price range, and E39 5-series should be in there too. I think either would be very cool. Although I think you may be best sticking with an regular 3 series.
 
JCE
You sold a Fiero? Blasphemy.

Well It needed a new Master Cylinder, brakes and rotors all around, i needed to get either a new or gut my cat (it was clogged and i got zero-60 in like an hour acceleration. it just needed much more work than i could give it, and since im not moving i want something a little better for the winter.

If i found a good deal i would travel/fly anywhere to get it and drive it home.

on another note, yes i know that BMW's are expensive to fix, but at the same time i know they run forever, and i JUST turned 25 back in april so i know my Insurance went down some. (greatly decreased for some reason)

im not 100% set on a BMW, i just would like one really bad lol.

that or i was also looking for a Jeep Wrangler but looking at them, 90% of em are Manual Tranny's and im not that skilled....... yet. Also if i want one that doesn't have 100K miles im looking out of my Price Range, AND lastly out of my Gas Mileage Range. when i had my 07 Wrangler i got 16-19mpg.. thats baddddd

I guess i would prefer a BMW, But i am open to other options if the deal is good and the car runs great. i want something that could do a road trip, (my grandpa lives in Tennessee and im in Michigan) and its about 8 hour drive. if i need to run down there i wanna know i can hop in the car and go.

bah i need to stop rambling. lol
 
Have you test driven any BMW yet? If not, try out E36, they're simply brilliant. E30's aren't bad either, and as a plus side they have that classical BMW styling.
 
I guess I don't really think a Jeep and a BMW would be in the same kind of equation. I mean, if you're not confident enough to nick a BMW with a stick, its really not worth getting at all.

Really, I think you'd be more satisfied with a sporty Japanese sedan. The Mazda 6 comes to mind, which is beyond an excellent car, and just as capable as most (older) BMWs.
 
your price range puts older, good 5 series in your range and any E36. 8 grand can get you a fairly clean M3, but you'll be looking at '95 models. 318's will be in the price range, but those don't tend to be as well maintained.

A good E39 will run around 10 grand, same for the E38. I'll get more info for you once I get back home after the weekend, but I think an E36 M3 might be a solid choice.

Also, despite popular belief, part are not expensive. Very comparable to the EG-6 Civic I own.
 
if youre gonna pic between bmw and jeep, i would go with bmw. a good good friend of mine works for tech managment at bmw canada, parts and labour will not be cheap unless you know a personal mechanic,but it wont be in the shop as mutch as the jeep. once i get my job with coast mtn bus co(that is our transit system)i myself will be looking for bmw.my choices are 05 to07 e46 m3,o7 to 08 330ci, or 09 135i. im also thinking about a 08 335i. good luck on your search.what is the year of 745li?

also dont buy e36 m3 with 1st generation smg transmission,they were very troblesome.and very expensive to fix or replace.if u want the least problems, stick with reg manual or automatic.

my tech buddy has a red 91 325i 5spd for sale, he has a 09 335 x drive that he is driving right now.
 
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i want something that could do a road trip, (my grandpa lives in Tennessee and im in Michigan) and its about 8 hour drive.

That's odd, I live in Tennessee and my grandpa lives in Michigan (matter of fact, I'm going there next week).

Just remember that general maintenance on a BMW is expensive, my brother had a mid eighties 3 series and plug wires alone was in the $400 range.

P.S. I can't believe you sold the Fiero, besides I thought it was your aunt's car.
 
also dont buy e36 m3 with 1st generation smg transmission,they were very troblesome.and very expensive to fix or replace.if u want the least problems, stick with reg manual or automatic.

The US, to the best of my knowledge, did not get the SMG in the E36. So that is a non issue. We also kept the 5 speed on the E36 for its life span here.

That's odd, I live in Tennessee and my grandpa lives in Michigan (matter of fact, I'm going there next week).

Just remember that general maintenance on a BMW is expensive, my brother had a mid eighties 3 series and plug wires alone was in the $400 range.

Where did he go, the dealership and had them install them?
 
That's odd, I live in Tennessee and my grandpa lives in Michigan (matter of fact, I'm going there next week).

Just remember that general maintenance on a BMW is expensive, my brother had a mid eighties 3 series and plug wires alone was in the $400 range.

P.S. I can't believe you sold the Fiero, besides I thought it was your aunt's car.

I call BS. I used to own an '84 3 series (same engine as your brother's) and the plug wires were $90 flat from any number of online retailers. *Maybe* $400 if you go to the stealership, but seriously... don't go to the stealership for anything. There's no reason to.

The thing about 80's 3-series are the front control arms. It LOVES to eat control arms and replacing them is almost a yearly exercise. It isn't difficult, but the arms are about $80 a piece. The stronger your front sway bar is the faster it'll eat the control arms.

Otherwise, reliability was excellent. The thing NEVER once left me stranded and started every time whether it was 100 degrees or -40.
 
You call bs, but I call facts. Now since then they've added Omni wires that are 200 dollars cheaper to their list. I have no reason to lie as I'm not the person buying the car. Here is a link for plug wires on a '87 BMW 325i 2.5l i6 http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Prod...d=1244853724359&cycleCount=1755&currentPage=0

P.S. From what I can tell, slowman, is that your engine is different from his as you have either a 1.8l or a 2.7l and he had a 2.5l.

Edit:P.S. x2 Don't get me wrong I have nothing against BMW's reliability
 
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I didn't intend to be hostile or confrontational just so you know. :)

The 2.5 and the 2.7 are *essentially* the same engine. There are some noticeable differences. They can share plug wires though.

My 2.7 was designated M20B27.

Your brothers 2.5 is the M20B25.

The B27 was designed to be a low hp/high torque gas mileage queen. And mine was, it returned 35mpg when I bought it and about 27mpg when I sold it. I did a few modifications, more on that at the bottom.

The B25 was designed as the high hp/low torque gas mileage be damned car. They still return around 24-26 mpg which is perfectly acceptable in my book.

Now they share a common block, starter, airbox, cables, belts, pulleys, plug wires, accessories, etc.

The difference lies in the engine computer, pistons, con-rods, crankshaft, cylinder head, intake manifold, throttle body, and fuel injectors. This is somewhat simplified as there are some other small different bits and bobs. Sensors related to Motronic 1.0 (325e) and Motronic 1.1/1.3 (325i) are also different obviously.

This might sound extensively different and it is... but all these bits and pieces are interchangeable and will bolt on to either engine. The resulting combination might not run well at all, or pistons might hit valves but in the end everything is interchangeable.

There are several routes to high performance with these engines as well.

You could build a 2.7 stroker which is essentially a 325e block and conrods with SuperEta pistons and a 325i cylinder head, intake manifold, and engine computer.

You can put an i head on an e block and turbocharge to around 6-7 psi without o-ringing the head or adding an intercooler. Engines have been built to handle around 24 psi, but this is quite extreme.

The easiest way to power if you have an e is to put a E21 323i head on the e block and use an i engine computer, fuel injectors, and intake manifold. Expect around 160 hp, lower than the stock i at 171 but considerably higher than the stock e at 121.

The hp of the stock e might sound a bit low, but this is where the beauty of 80's BMW's and interchangeable parts comes in. I had the ports machined out to fit i valves and I installed all new i valves, i double springs (the etas are single spring and prone to failure at higher rpms), i cams, rockers, and retainers. Then I installed an i intake manifold and throttle body. Still on the stock e computer I installed the common and excellent MarkD 89 Octane 325e chip. This raises the rev limit from 4600 to 5600.

The car shed some weight in the form of the massive rubber sound deadening in the trunk, underneath the carpet, underneath and behind the rear seats, spare tire, jack, glovebox, AC compressor, power steering system (Euro manual rack installed), and radio. All told over 150 pounds came out of the car. I had it weighed by our kindly local landfill and it came out to 2,384 lbs with a half tank of gas and without a driver.

Next up were the iS rims and 225 width tires front and rear. M3 sway bars, sway bar end links, control arms, and control arm bushings were installed. Finally a 535i's 3.25LS diff replaced the stock open 2.79.

The little eta was a screamer compared to its previous boring life as a gas mileage granny coupe. With its very high torque and very short gears, the car could take even S2000's and RX-8's off the line with no problem. They catch up once you get above 55 or so, but the look on their face as they finally hit *some* torque and pass is just gold.

Chapter 6
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Just kidding. Sorry I wrote a book about it... I just love the 80's 3-series. :D
 

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