brake pedal input travel vs output

  • Thread starter bluetusk
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sifupooh
Howdy!

Wheel model: Logitech G29. Recently disabled ABS. Experienced too many agricultural excursions corner after corner. Set ABS to weak, marginal improvement then noticed the pedal telemetry.

Issue: brake pedal touches rubber stop, not fully depressed, onscreen telemetry reflects 100% braking output but input is below 100%, approximately 80%.

Concerns: anyone else experience this issue with G29 brake pedal or another brand's pedal with a rubber stop/bushing brake mod?

I don't believe it's possible to calibrate brake pedal in-game just adjustments to wheel sensitivity and torque.

Suggestions are appreciated as I'm feeling like Boston George back in the day going through customs... Rumor has it he was unaccustomed to going through customs.
 
I think what you are describing has to do with the auto-calibration of the pedals. The game constantly monitors the input and sets 100% to be at the max value registered. Try forcing the pedal all the way to 100% throw (if you can) at the beginning of your session.
 
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Beginning of session meaning before race start or starting game from PS welcome screen? I'll try both. A thousand thank yous for your input.
 
Beginning of session meaning before race start or starting game from PS welcome screen? I'll try both. A thousand thank yous for your input.
In my experience, it's basically every time I return from standby mode. I know it isn't per race.
 
From my experience, it's the G29. The software in the wheel is calibrated with that crappy rubber damper. It's designed for you to press against it to simulate a real pedal.. which is completely unrealistic. If you remove that rubber block (as I did before I sold my G29), 100% pedal input in game is only like 70% physical pedal travel.

I use the G25 (which doesn't have that rubber junk) with the DriveHub now, and I guess because it shows itself as a G29 to the PS4, the pedal has the same issue. It sucks and I'm sure it hinders my braking as I really only need to press it half way to get all the braking I need.

So as far as I can tell, GT Sport has no calibration stuff. It just is what it is. GT Sport sees a G29 and is programmed with specific calibration rates for that setup.
 
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In my experience, it's basically every time I return from standby mode. I know it isn't per race.
in my brief testing, I found the results relatively sublime to my previous ABS on experience, when restarting the console and 'calibrating' all pedals after wheel did its lock to lock calibration. ABS is off and I'm able to correct after locking up, the delta between input and output telemetry is not visually discernible. Car is Mercedes AMG GT GT3 '16. I still experience lock up on slow corners with pedal input and output appr. 50%. But all in all my spirits are higher than Julian Assange's after he learned through clandestine backchannels that the greatest humanitarian in the world, one Ms. Anderson, wished to see him for a second time.
 
From my experience, it's the G29. The software in the wheel is calibrated with that crappy rubber damper. It's designed for you to press against it to simulate a real pedal.. which is completely unrealistic. If you remove that rubber block (as I did before I sold my G29), 100% pedal input in game is only like 70% physical pedal travel.

I use the G25 (which doesn't have that rubber junk) with the DriveHub now, and I guess because it shows itself as a G29 to the PS4, the pedal has the same issue. It sucks and I'm sure it hinders my braking as I really only need to press it half way to get all the braking I need.

So as far as I can tell, GT Sport has no calibration stuff. It just is what it is. GT Sport sees a G29 and is programmed with specific calibration rates for that setup.
Try depressing all pedals after wheel self calibrates after powering on console. Let me know how it goes
 
@bluetusk Yea, thats what I do every time I plug the wheel in. Just did it again to verify. Only happens on the brake pedal though.

As I said, when I had the G29 and the rubber thing in, it was fine because the pedal only physically traveled so far. It was designed to work this way. Once I removed it though, the wheel/software obviously doesn't recognize that so it still calibrates the same. My G25 pedals don't have that of course (thank god) but the system still thinks its a G29, because it has to for it to work.

I made a thread on the DriveHub forum to see if they could somehow compensate for it in the DriveHub firmware, but no response yet.

Or of course PD could just add some basic calibration tool in GT Sport so it wouldn't be a problem.
 
I'd love to be able to adjust cal. With load cell I can rest on the pedal lightly it'll register some input. May not physically do a lot but I can see brake light flashing. On PC I can set a min threshold too...
 
@bluetusk Yea, thats what I do every time I plug the wheel in. Just did it again to verify. Only happens on the brake pedal though.

...My G25 pedals don't have that of course (thank god) but the system still thinks its a G29, because it has to for it to work.

...
Or of course PD could just add some basic calibration tool in GT Sport so it wouldn't be a problem.
in this thread a member suggests using an electronics contact cleaner to clean the pots. Caig DeOxit was suggested but you may find CRC qd electronic spray on a store shelf near you. This is on my to do list, I can't speak from experience as of yet.
 
@bluetusk Unfortunately, I know that isn't the issue because

1. The G25 (and G29) worked fine on PC and Xbox I guess. It registers the full brake pedal travel.

2. The G29 was new so it's somewhat unlikely to be a fault like that, especially considering reason #1.
 
I experience the same issues with my CSL ELITE PS4 Wheel from Fanatec. For the time being this wheel has to be used in a compatibility mode that emulates the G29 Wheel from Logitech.
When using it this way i have the same issues regarding brake travel input vs. output. So this is clearly a driver related issue... btw my wheel is brand new...
Fortunately with the Fanatec stuff it is possible to manually calibrate the brake force of the LoadCell Brake. I raised the brake force to 80% to achieve 100% brake force ingame when i push it to my personal limit of approximately 15kg weight.
 
Not entirely happy with my G29 brakes, that rubber bung is really annoying me. I just can't seem to get a consistent feel, especially under heavy braking (Nurburgring GP first corner, Suzuka pre-chicane etc). I prefer a more arcade feel. So I've got a GTEye spring on the way and when that arrives I'll take the rubber bung out. I'm not too bothered with the dead zone at the end of the pedal travel that will be created, as I believe it'll give me a bit of a difference between "scrub some speed" and "STOP!".
 
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