brakes

  • Thread starter Thread starter higgimonster
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higgimonster

higgimonster

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I have been fidling with the brake settings trying to find a reason not to put them up to full. Mabey there is some kind of fading affect? I dunno. I was wondering if anyone knew a good reason not to set brakes to something like front:24 rear:19. I would playaround with it more myself but I don't feel like it right now ;)
 
well, one reason being that haveing the brakes very high in front (and higher then the rear) is that when brakeing it severely limits your turning capabilities. I like to set up my brakes high as well, but i always have the rear brakes just a bit higher. this provides more stability when brakeing and is great for waiting till the last second to brake and still have the brakes on just a wee bit in the begining of the turns. my most used setting is F: 19 R: 21.
 
that was kind of obvious. I just needed someone to say it to me. I will have to play around a bit more after class today, see what I can find.
 
I'm the complete opposite.. I crank them in the front and dial them a little lighter in the rear. (usually around 20/15) Makes for a more sure corner for me, no sliding into it sideways unless i want to. There's alot more to it than that but I can't think of the words I want just now..
 
depending on the tracks and car i set them up differently but i usualy keep them the same or the back a little higher so i have a balance in the car.
 
Front: 12, Rear: 10, with camber angle about 3.0, 2.5

Brakes should always be stronger on front wheels. On a normal car I think the ratio is about 70 - 30 %. Too much power on the rear whhels and they will lock up far too easily. Remember that when breaking the weight balance of the car is shifted to the front of the car.
 
Typicaly you want more brake on the front rotors because they're bigger and will stop you faster. The reason I stay away from the absolute top of the brake balance controller is timming. I can time my shifting, turn in and exit a lot better, making for quicker lap times and a lot less tire wear. Most of the time when you're running your fastest time it feels slow, but it's smooth and consistent and nets you the best results!
 
well, as far as the rear wheels "locking up" firstly, all cars in gt3 have ABS so :p secondly a good driver can use that to his advantage (powerslide), and third, have you tried analog? ie... dont put the full braking power, this way you slow down VERY quick and you avoid loss of tire grip. the best way to do it is apply about 75-80% force at the begining of your brake point, then cut back to 50% and then about 25-30% as you are entering the turn, this way you can wait till the VERY last second to brake, and still turn proper (no slide). try it out sometime! :darkside:
 
I tend to leave the brakes till last when tuning, but that's probably because I use a DS controller so can't get your level of delicacy (your using a wheel and pedals, right?). I try to balance the car with toe in/out and shock adjustments and leave the brake settings stock.

I plan to get a wheel soon tho... :D
 
BUT, you can still lose rearend traction from having them set high.. They might not lockup, but they brake solidly enough to cause loss of traction. That turns into added friction which turns into smoke which nets less laps on the effected tires.. I've never been able to get used to that style anyways, so I stick with the heavier up front style.. As for analog, I'm currently stuck with the DS controller too. I must say though, I was extreemly impressed with the analog capabilities of the buttons on them, even the "R" buttons are analog! That was one of my favorite things when I got my PS2,lol. It's so great to be able to give partial gas in a corner, although brake is harder to tell since there is no sound to warn, (other than screeching tires;) ). Currently, I'm researching which wheel I want. I've almost bought the latest GT-force wheel over and over, but now that I've heard of all its problems, NO WAY!!!
 
I use full strenghth brakes uniformly and always do power braking.

That is, I keep the accelerator pressed with my thumbs first joint and tap the brakes (or press hard if necessary) with the tip of my thumb... That works quike well for me...

I found that it is especially key to a clean cruise at Cote D'Azur...
 
Originally posted by axletramp
I tend to leave the brakes till last when tuning, but that's probably because I use a DS controller so can't get your level of delicacy (your using a wheel and pedals, right?). I try to balance the car with toe in/out and shock adjustments and leave the brake settings stock.

I plan to get a wheel soon tho... :D
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I wish i had a wheel and pedals. i too can not decide which to buy, but im leaning towards Act Labs Force RS. it looks really sweet, and its good for pc,ps2,xbox lalalalala blah blah blah 8)
but for now, im stuck with DS2, i use the analog sticks and always have since GT1. i must say i've gotten considerably nicer with them since GT3. i never really needed quite as much precision with them as i do now (the zonda made me do it!) so i can pretty much control the car exactly how i want it, but i would do sooo much better with a wheel. its just more natural then twidling my thumbs. and the buttons? yea i know they are analog now, but hey, they are still buttons :p
 
after a while i get used to it by braking not fully so that the car doesnt loose traction when it turns and is stable during the turn and less wheel spin.
 
I keep mine at 1 and 1. All the setting is is the ABS. Put it a 24, you got fulol ABS, put it at 1, you're gonna lock em up, and I like to lock em up :D
 
wow, really? I have never tried cranking them all the way down and seeing what happens. Guess I'll have to go try this tomorrow evening, when I get home again. And maybe if I need a break from playing GT3, I'll reach out my winder and start tearing my 1.8 apart :p
 
there's not much difference....untill you slow down to 30 or so, then the wheels lock and you slide. Also it's better for brake torqueing.

It's more realistic to me.
 
more realistic in the fact that the rearend "locks"? this is not that realistic to me, but that's because most of the real cars I've driven tended to lock sooner in the front than the rear. The only exception, (of course this is just within my experiences), was mom's 91 MX5. When I was learning to drive her, I was out cruising around a little subdivision like thing. I was goin along, doing the speed limit when from behind an overgrown bush, pops a big red stop sign, LOL. I was a new driver, so I just slammed the brakes, rearend locked and I slid sideways to a stop! (weight plays a big factor in a light car) I stopped right at the sign, but it scared the stuff outta me, especially since the AC, radio and all the other accessories ceased to function?!?!? I drove it home, checking it along the way. Nothing righted itself until right when i pulled in. I shut it off, took the key out, returned it, started it and everything was in-order afterwards! Dunno what happened, but that was the only instance. Oh, and now I'm MUCH more consious of bushes, signs and such. Good learning expierence :D
 
I wanted to get a few things off my mind while I am on this site:

First of all, I noticed that many people believe ABS was made to make a car stop quicker. This is not true; it is made so a driver can steer while pressing the brakes hard (but you can stop quicker in the rain).

I also wondered about the following:

💡 Why can't cars have an on/off switch for ABS-equipped vehicles? I saw an episode of Behind Closed Doors once when the host was driving a Pontiac down a slippery test track to feel the difference between what it's like driving ABS and non-ABS cars under hard braking. That car had an on/off switch. If on the market, it would allow a car buyer to decide for him/herself whether or not to have antilock brakes on so they don't regret their decision. This would be good if you bought a car like a Lancer Evolution for use on the highway (when ABS can be helpful) and for rallying on the weekends (when ABS is not needed).

💡 Finally, why hasn't a company created vented drum brakes? If it would make them weaker strength-wise (if that's the reason), then why can't there be a brake pad on the outside of the drum and one on the inside to brake a wheel similar to disk brakes?

I wonder why sometimes the last two ideas haven't become a reality. If they do become reality, I bet they would make driving better. 👍 👍
 
Epinionator89
First of all, I noticed that many people believe ABS was made to make a car stop quicker. This is not true; it is made so a driver can steer while pressing the brakes hard (but you can stop quicker in the rain).
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True. ABS frequently lengthens stopping distances compared to a skilled driver threshold braking. However, it usually shortens stopping distances compared to an 'oh-crap-stomp-the-pedal-to-the-floor-with-both-feet' driver.
💡 Why can't cars have an on/off switch for ABS-equipped vehicles?
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Some do. Among others, second-gen Neon R/T, ACR, and (I believe) SRT models come with swithcable ABS and traction control.
💡 Finally, why hasn't a company created vented drum brakes? If it would make them weaker strength-wise (if that's the reason), then why can't there be a brake pad on the outside of the drum and one on the inside to brake a wheel similar to disk brakes?

I wonder why sometimes the last two ideas haven't become a reality. If they do become reality, I bet they would make driving better.
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No, they would not make driving better. Disc brakes are superior in every way except manufacturing cost to drum brakes. On the rear brakes, where discs usually require some sort of auxilliary parking brake, there may be a small weight penalty associated with discs. Otherwise, for stopping power and ease of maintenance, discs have it all over drums.

Welcome to GTPlanet. And thanks for searching up an old topic befre posting a new thread!
 
Although the Ford GT40 did a very good job of winning Le Mans on vented brake drums. So the answer is "someone already has thought of vented drums".
 
Famine
Although the Ford GT40 did a very good job of winning Le Mans on vented brake drums. So the answer is "someone already has thought of vented drums".
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You've said this dozens of times, but it's not getting any more true. The Mk2, which won LeMans, definitely had 4 wheel discs. Early Mk1 prototypes may have had drum brakes in the rear, but I don't think so, and all of the famous race-winning cars, be they Mk1s or Mk2s, definitely had discs back there.
 
I dont usually do this but when my cousin was here and he was racing i did some settings and put the brakes to F=20 R=24 and it actually improved his time and he is a noob! oh and on some cars F=10 R=24
 
neon_duke
You've said this dozens of times, but it's not getting any more true. The Mk2, which won LeMans, definitely had 4 wheel discs. Early Mk1 prototypes may have had drum brakes in the rear, but I don't think so, and all of the famous race-winning cars, be they Mk1s or Mk2s, definitely had discs back there.
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124 were built. 12 prototypes, 31 MkIs, 64 MkIIs, 7 MkIIIs, 10 MkIVs. The 12 prototypes had vented drum brakes all round. The MkIs and up - including the Le Mans winning MkII - had discs all round (12 inch at the front, 11.5 inch at the back). I'm led to believe that the MkIII - only ever a road car, and primarily intended as a "rich man's toy" had drums, but I can't back that up.

But you're right - the GT40 never won Le Mans whilst on drum brakes. But the GT40 did win Le Mans, AND some had drum brakes.

Digging deeper, I've found that up until 1965, Corvettes had vented drum brakes all round.
 
Somehting Ive sorta thought about now and then was that you could possibly have two sets of calipers on each disc. i.e. 1 at the fron and 1 at the back of each disc. This would give more clamping force and more clamping area so it might work a bit better. Only downside I can think of is the disc would probably get hotter faster and therfore would lock up easier.

How on earth are Drum Brakes Vented? I know that Disc brakes were more effecient because they had more pad area on the disc compared to the shoe on a drum brake.
 

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