Braking Controller,ABS,Engine Rebuild, Oil Change Questions

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Tank-Z32TT
Ok, trust me I have searched and I just need help please. Can some one help better explain to me how to use this. Default is 5/5. If I set front breaks to 3 and rear breaks to 7, the car will understeer correct? 7 front and 3 reer it will oversteer.

But how do I figure out what to set these 2 values? And what should I set ABS to? Should I keep it at 1? Should I put it on 10 and set the breaking controller to 2/2 for ultimate but maybe stable breaking power?

- Engine Rebuild, what km/mileage should this be required?

- Oil Change: Does changing oil when you buy a new car increase its power? How long does that power last? When should you do a oil change? Is it like real life (I do mine every 1.5k miles(I have a 300zx Twin Turbo). Does oil changes lower performance over time?

Is there a User Manual PDF for GT5?
 
As far as the brake controller goes, a front heavy setup is usually the way to go. That way, your rear end won't slide as easily under braking, keeping the car stable.

While braaking, the front tyres are loaded more than the rear and, thus, have more grip. To much brake bias to the rear and the rear tyres will lose grip and your car will become unstable/spin out.

6/4 or 7/4, maybe 7/3 should work. Depends on how late you brake and whether you have a tendency to trail brake or not.

Chassis maintance: Don't bother with it until you feel a big difference in your car's handling.
 
Thanks for the replies. I know theres a manual ingame, but I have a laptop and it would be convenient if I could look at the manual if I forget something without having to goto the appropriate part of the game to access the manual. Also, would be nice if tuning information in the game was in a PDF as well.

Anywas, if you can find a PDF of the GT5 manual, please let me have the link pretty please.
 
Click on the link in my signature to the GT Tuning guides (both of which are .pdfs), the first one covers brake bias set-up in detail.

Including the how and the why of setting it (and lots of other tuning stuff across the two guides).


Regards

Scaff
 
Ok, i understand the concept of it. But I need to know something with balance controller. Is higher the number the less strength you have with the brakes?

Im testing with my first car so it has 160 hp, 1040 kg.

The default is 5/5, so does that mean that 500kg is on the front and 500kg is on the rear? But that wouldn't make sense because its a FF drive car. How do I know how heavy the car is on each side? Do I need to guess? Does 1 point of balance equate to 100kg or 10% of the vehicle weight??

IS 1 greater breaking power than 10 or less? What would be the proper way to set up this Civic that is 160 hp, 1040 kg with the balancing brake controllers? DO I leave ABS on 1?

I actually put 0 front and 0 rear for balance and I got my best lap time on the Autamn mini map... I was expecting not to have any breaks at all. Whats the deal? Is this feature broken?
 
Ok, i understand the concept of it. But I need to know something with balance controller. Is higher the number the less strength you have with the brakes?

Im testing with my first car so it has 160 hp, 1040 kg.

The default is 5/5, so does that mean that 500kg is on the front and 500kg is on the rear? But that wouldn't make sense because its a FF drive car. How do I know how heavy the car is on each side? Do I need to guess? Does 1 point of balance equate to 100kg or 10% of the vehicle weight??

IS 1 greater breaking power than 10 or less? What would be the proper way to set up this Civic that is 160 hp, 1040 kg with the balancing brake controllers? DO I leave ABS on 1?

I actually put 0 front and 0 rear for balance and I got my best lap time on the Autamn mini map... I was expecting not to have any breaks at all. Whats the deal? Is this feature broken?

Higher numbers are stronger. A good all-around setting is 7-3 or 8-2. It's best not to over-think this too much, but even if a car's weight is 50-50, that's only when it's traveling at a steady speed in a straight line. Most cars, under braking, will have more weight on the front wheels than the rear. This is why a front biased setting seems to make the car stop better. Also, try not to read too much into one good lap... you might smash your Autumn Ring record if you tried a different brake setting.

In my experience, unless you have force feedback pedals (like on the G25/27/Fanatec??), you should leave ABS on at 1. With it all the way off, I feel it's too easy to lock the brakes up.
 
The brake balance is the ratio of braking force, not the actual force. 10/1 means your front brakes are receiving 91% (ten elevenths) of your car's braking power; 5/5 (and anything equal to a 1:1 ratio - 0/0, 1/1 etc) means both front and rear are receiving an equal amount of brake force. 0/0 does not mean you have zero brakes. 10/0 does mean you have (almost) zero rear brakes, however.

I flip the brake bias relative to the drive type - I'll use something like 3/6 in a front-drive car and 7/4 in a rear-drive one.
 
The brake balance is the ratio of braking force, not the actual force. 10/1 means your front brakes are receiving 91% (ten elevenths) of your car's braking power; 5/5 (and anything equal to a 1:1 ratio - 0/0, 1/1 etc) means both front and rear are receiving an equal amount of brake force. 0/0 does not mean you have zero brakes. 10/0 does mean you have (almost) zero rear brakes, however.

I flip the brake bias relative to the drive type - I'll use something like 3/6 in a front-drive car and 7/4 in a rear-drive one.

Wouldn't flipping it for a FWD really unsettle it a LOT?

I would just do some experimenting with ABS to 0 and see what brake force you need to push the pedal 100% without locking them. Do this for the front, then the rear.
Then put it one notch above that so that you can brake at maximum power because there are 10 settings instead of 100 :(
 
I don't like turn-in understeer. ;) I find that flipping the bias for a FWD helps trailbraking, and as that's something I do quite a bit of it suits my driving style :)

edit: ok, so 3/6 in a FWD is a bit extreme, but I still don't run more brake on the front in them. It's either equal to the rear or slightly less (4/5, 4/6, 5/6, 5/7)
 
I always run mine at 5/3 or 5/2 depending on the amount of weight transfer in the car. I prefer to be able to push my car as much as possible.

Remember when experimenting with low brake forces that the amount of brake input needed lessens as the car decelerates - due to loss of downforce.

You should keep an eye on your tyre temps and ALWAYS reduce the rear to the point that the front locks first. If you lock the back wheels, you're going to go off.

All the above applies to ABS off only. ABS should mostly negate the need to play with brake balance as it should be wheel-independent.
 

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