buy a Handbrake?

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MrDavid5465

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Does anyone know where I could possibly buy a pull up handbrake? I got one out of a Subaru outback, but I could not get it to work as the signal kept on grounding to my rig rather than to my G27 wheel. I know that my connections work because when I connect the two wires, it performs the desired function. I found a normally open push button but it is too small for me to mount. I can't seem to find a larger one in my area.
 
What kind of switch are you using? It should have two wires and both should run to the shifter.
 
Why not try and solve the problem with the handbrake you've got? Any chance you could elaborate on how you've got everything wired up? To answer your question though I'm not aware of any off-the-shelf products but I'm sure there probably are some. I know people use G25 shifters in sequential mode and Thrustmaster TH8 shifters as vertical handbrakes and a lot of people make their own (I'm planning on doing so but haven't gotten round to it yet!), though.

But yeah, if you could talk us through how your handbrake is currently wired and what the problem is exactly, I'm sure one or some of us can help.

Edit: Just looking at the photo of the handbrake in your rig thread, are there no other wires apart from that red (or is it pink?) one? Do you own a multimeter? If there's just the one wire then you probably need to insulate the whole handbrake from the rig and solder a second wire to the bare metal somewhere then connect both wires up to the shifter, but how you'd go about insulating it I don't know; maybe just mount it on a piece of wood and then mount the wood onto the rig? Wouldn't look great but maybe you could find a leather boot to go over the whole thing?
 
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I'm in the process of making my G27 shifter into a hand brake using springs and high density foam, i'll post some pics and details when its finished......
 
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Does anyone know where I could possibly buy a pull up handbrake? I got one out of a Subaru outback, but I could not get it to work as the signal kept on grounding to my rig rather than to my G27 wheel. I know that my connections work because when I connect the two wires, it performs the desired function. I found a normally open push button but it is too small for me to mount. I can't seem to find a larger one in my area.

I saw your rig and got an answer for you .
ARC handbrake. since you can mount them on the 'floor' of the rig.
if you want top or side mount. get frex HB+
 
Whenever I tried to use the handbrake the current would ground to my rig and my g27 would turn off until I opened the circuit again. The metal on the handbrake alone doesn't turn off the controller.The switch that is on the handbrake in the pic is destroyed. I wanted to see if I could salvage the mount for the normally open switch but no luck there. I soldered two wires in my shifter(to circle button) and when i touch them together it does exactly what i want it to so my soldering is correct. I tried insulating the shifter with electrical tape before I destroyed the button. The bolts that held the handbrake bit through the tape and grounded it to the frame. Im going to try and find another handbrake so I can get a new switch as I see no practical way to mount a new button. In the meantime I'll look at the suggested handbrake methods
 
I recommend one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320809167132?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

$(KGrHqN,!hcE8mPMNCQqBPhJu808wg~~60_1.JPG


One of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-tr...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a700f5456

And one of these:

http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/Circuits---Load-Cell-Amps.html

The total is about 200 USD for all of the parts.

d
 
Make your own, that's what I'm doing.
Get an old joystick, take it apart and make a box that only allows it to go in on axis, and rig up a handle and spring. Plus you can make a button box with the leftover joystick buttons.
 
This is my take on a vertical handbrake lever it is wired to the self built button box with a momentery switch looks great works well.👍 ps excuse the dust not had the time.
 

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derekspeare

I have looked at these handbrakes on ebay before and they are similar to the one that frex use for thier hydraulic handbrake.

I would also like to know how your load cell amp would be connected to the ebrake.
 
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@Cliffo - the connection diagrams are on my site with my circuit boards. Using the components I outlined above, you can make a pressure based, hydraulic handbrake, one which gives you an infinite range of input and not a handbrake which is either on or off.
 
Hey Derek, with the proper connection, your Freestanding Load Cell Amplifier with Variable Gain Control , in theory, should allow for a hydro handbrake to be attached to the CSP and be read as a linear input?
 
derekspeare
@Cliffo - the connection diagrams are on my site with my circuit boards. Using the components I outlined above, you can make a pressure based, hydraulic handbrake, one which gives you an infinite range of input and not a handbrake which is either on or off.

Thanks for the reply derek, I will be looking further into this 👍
 
Any more details? Which site sells them, are they usb, are they on off or pressure?
Don't think there is a site. The guy is in iRacing. If you are interested, I suggest just enquire via Youtube or try sending him a personal message via his channel.

It's on/off. By the way, even though I sell a handbrake plate for the TH8RS which is progressive, I see no advantage in using a progressive handbrake. Also, I think it's just 2 wires, no usb. I actually prefer this as you have more options, eg. piggy back off other devices. Less separate devices the better unless all you do is iRacing which I believe supports infinite devices.

Just had a look at the OP's rig. This handbrake looks too tall for his setup. Also, he did ask about a pull up handbrake so this probably doesn't fit the bill.
 
Just about every current sim racing title supports as many controllers as you have on your system. Limits are found only on the Gmotor ones, and they are essentially legacy titles. CARS, AC (Confirmed personally with KS), NKP, LFS, iRacing and other new ones support virtually unlimited controllers.

An on-off hand brake is like an on-off foot brake, but each man can make their own determination for their own needs. If someone wants to keep controllers to a minimum, I'd bet MrBasher is the one to see.

d
 
Just about every current sim racing title supports as many controllers as you have on your system. Limits are found only on the Gmotor ones, and they are essentially legacy titles. CARS, AC (Confirmed personally with KS), NKP, LFS, iRacing and other new ones support virtually unlimited controllers.

An on-off hand brake is like an on-off foot brake, but each man can make their own determination for their own needs. If someone wants to keep controllers to a minimum, I'd bet MrBasher is the one to see.

d

Actually itrdc5 is right, i use both frex and analogue hb, if you sim rally enough you know that on/off is the right way to skid the tyres on hairpins. Even on analogue , you ended up yanking max - as halfway wont het the job done.

So no Derek, Ive tried both. An on off handbrake is not like onoff foot brake, you are not trying to slide the car when you footbrake. I thought you know what you are talking about man
 
Actually itrdc5 is right, i use both frex and analogue hb, if you sim rally enough you know that on/off is the right way to skid the tyres on hairpins. Even on analogue , you ended up yanking max - as halfway wont het the job done.

So no Derek, Ive tried both. An on off handbrake is not like onoff foot brake, you are not trying to slide the car when you footbrake. I thought you know what you are talking about man

Thank you for your kind remark and your opinion on the matter. Do you have any examples of real world rally cars with on/off hand brakes in them? That would help to illustrate your point more clearly for those who may not be as experienced as you?
 
Thank you for your kind remark and your opinion on the matter. Do you have any examples of real world rally cars with on/off hand brakes in them? That would help to illustrate your point more clearly for those who may not be as experienced as you?

You're welcome. Derek-, yes, testing from both types very frequently between analogue and on/off, both pursuing the same result (wheel lock) to achieve slide from handbrake require "full-pull" or it won't happen.

another method thought by some dude called Mcrae or Burns is "scandinavian-flick"
here's a video to "illustrate" that he pull the Handbrake to full lock
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwqmZFhI0co
check out at 0:25 .
👍
 
Don't think there is a site. The guy is in iRacing. If you are interested, I suggest just enquire via Youtube or try sending him a personal message via his channel.

It's on/off. By the way, even though I sell a handbrake plate for the TH8RS which is progressive, I see no advantage in using a progressive handbrake. Also, I think it's just 2 wires, no usb. I actually prefer this as you have more options, eg. piggy back off other devices. Less separate devices the better unless all you do is iRacing which I believe supports infinite devices.

Just had a look at the OP's rig. This handbrake looks too tall for his setup. Also, he did ask about a pull up handbrake so this probably doesn't fit the bill.

Thanks for the info. I was interested as this is the first I have seen of these... depending on the price, they may not be a bad option. :)
 
Actually Hwangw I think Derek was referencing the on/off mechanism of a foot brake and not the technique of using a footbrake, if your handbrake is either on/off or progressive then you are going to be giving it a full yank either way, in any case Derek was offering (experienced) help and your retort was quite rude.
 
Interesting thread. Although I already have a frex modded with load cell handbrake, I wanted to make hydraulic one with either load cell or else, from 3 components Derek has posted, I obviously get the lever (
(for a very reasonable price, just like one pictured cheap but seems decent off eBay), as well as the pressure transducer idea, but last link that now leads to Derek's main page, I'm assuming is to the load cell amplifier page.

What I do not understand though, is how to link the 3 components together, or rather the LOad Cell amplifier - how to get 3 wires output from transducer (gnd, +5v and data) to load cell, as 3 wires implies direct connection to analogue inputs on a board (I have a LB board with free analog inputs as well as a load cell standalone amplifier (4 wires of course, hence the confusion linking LC amplifier and transducer), that I could use if I ordered the leaver and transducer). So I am confused if I am missing a component or have one too many in LCD amplifier, as I see no way to use it right now :)

Of course I have also seen Honeywell more expensive transducers with 4 wires, but that just left me even more confused :D
Any hints would be appreciated for relative newbie when it comes to real car parts mechanics, but since it sends linear voltage depending on pressure applied, i'd have thought it should connect directly into analogue input on a joystick board, but this is the area I don't have enough knowledge of either :)

Also is pictured 500 psi sender/transducer the right choice? I have no way of estimating if it is, I know that my 60kg brake pedal load cell is about enough for me, but could have been up to 100kg ideally
 
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I say do what I did. use a TH8, get a handbrake boot and shaft with handle, get a 75lb spring from century spring and make a channel plate for the spring. Bingo, instant awesome handbrake. looks and feel pretty real. analog.
 
If you want bling bling you can get one of those ebay rally handbrakes for around 70 bucks, they already come with a master cylinder so the next thing I'd do is get a motorcycle brake caliper and a suitable loadcell to fit in the caliper. Get an INA122 (I reckon the cheaper INA126 would do aswell for this purpose), a piece of perfboard and build a simple loadcell amp. After that you can connect it to whatever you want.
 
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