Cerbera Speed 12 '00 Need help tuning

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HanibalII92

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HanibalII
Ok, so I've pulled this out again, and chucked on Praiano's tune for it. Only modification made was to the front springs and ride height. (Lowered height and softened springs - Improved the handling for me)

Now the problem I'm faced with, is it has the speed/acceleration of a 2J, but it has the handling of Jay Lenos Tank car :D

I've been doing test runs with it on the highspeed way track. For reference, I got 55 seconds with a Zonda R. With the cerbera, I got 1.05 :D

The handling of the Cerbera baffles me. Considering it's size...I'm not sure where I'm going wrong. On suzuka Circuit, I manage to beat all the GT race cars in it. (Come third after the LM zonda and Mclaren GT-R)

Could somebody help me correct the enormous understeer this car has? If it can be. At 620pp it really is a remarkable car.

(Plus I love the look of it!) :D

Cheers :)

Tune I used :)
 
You have understeer in that beast...? Try making the front springs, dampers and anti roll bars stiffer than the rear, that may help (as long as you can ignore the feeling that it should work like it would in real life: more understeer).
 
mistersafeway
You have understeer in that beast...? Try making the front springs, dampers and anti roll bars stiffer than the rear, that may help (as long as you can ignore the feeling that it should work like it would in real life: more understeer).
Click to expand...

Sorry but that would be counter productive. As I said in the first post. I softened the front springs and lowered the height and the control is better.
This car is well known for its understeer...

Or am I confusing under with over steer?

Understeer is full lock and the car doesnt follow the inside path you're aiming for?
 
mistersafeway
You have understeer in that beast...? Try making the front springs, dampers and anti roll bars stiffer than the rear, that may help (as long as you can ignore the feeling that it should work like it would in real life: more understeer).
Click to expand...

HanibalII92
Sorry but that would be counter productive. As I said in the first post. I softened the front springs and lowered the height and the control is better.
This car is well known for its understeer...

Or am I confusing under with over steer?

Understeer is full lock and the car doesnt follow the inside path you're aiming for?
Click to expand...

Springs are working backward in the game, not dampers and ARB
 
praiano63
Springs are working backward in the game, not dampers and ARB
Click to expand...

Agree 100%. Springs in GT5 do not work the same as to real world. Do a test. Change only springs on your current set up. Front to about 3/4 to right (stiff) and rear 3/4 left (soft).
 
shmogt
Not sure if this will help at all for what you want, but I made a more extreme tune for that car before and maybe it will work for you http://www.team-shmo.com/Tunes/TVR/Race/TVR-Cerbera-Speed-12-2000.php
Click to expand...

Ok, I tried the tune, and it did go better. My lap time on Suzuka has gone down to 2.01 which is 7 seconds faster, give or take. However to win, I need to get 1.50 Minimum. Do you think it's possible?

The steering is almost good, it's just too stiff for my liking.

Please let me know what you think.

Cheers
 
HanibalII92
Ok, I tried the tune, and it did go better. My lap time on Suzuka has gone down to 2.01 which is 7 seconds faster, give or take. However to win, I need to get 1.50 Minimum. Do you think it's possible?

The steering is almost good, it's just too stiff for my liking.

Please let me know what you think.

Cheers
Click to expand...

ahha 7 seconds is so much faster. That is a general tune and it sounds like you need a track specific one. Your driving really makes the biggest difference. If it's too stiff just raise everything. Try half the ride height and half the springs etc. Leave everything else. That should soften it up a lot while still giving you great turning angles and speeds.
 
shmogt
ahha 7 seconds is so much faster. That is a general tune and it sounds like you need a track specific one. Your driving really makes the biggest difference. If it's too stiff just raise everything. Try half the ride height and half the springs etc. Leave everything else. That should soften it up a lot while still giving you great turning angles and speeds.
Click to expand...

Ok, well taking Suzuka for example, In the first bend in the Cerbera, straight off the straight, I can't go into the corner any faster than 90mph otherwise there's massive understeer and I end up over the ripple strip, while a car such as the Ford LM race car, I can go into that corner on about 120 and follow through nicely. That's why it's so confusing! I'm going about 15 seconds slower per lap in the Cerbera than in many other cars. :(
 
That's a real race car tho. Race car will always be better. It has more downforce. The Speed 12 is an insane car that took me a lot of time just to get as good as it can go. You can probably get a bit faster times with more tuning for that exact track but I highly doubt anything close t the same as a rela race car.
 
HanibalII92
Ok, I tried the tune, and it did go better. My lap time on Suzuka has gone down to 2.01 which is 7 seconds faster, give or take. However to win, I need to get 1.50 Minimum. Do you think it's possible?

The steering is almost good, it's just too stiff for my liking.

Please let me know what you think.

Cheers
Click to expand...

general rule of thumb, slow in fast out, yes it may seem so much slower when your driving, but it will cut alot off laps
 
MrPainCake
general rule of thumb, slow in fast out, yes it may seem so much slower when your driving, but it will cut alot off laps
Click to expand...

That's what I do. Honestly though, the steering really is terrible. I was going about 180mph down the straight, and even veering is difficult.
 
try balancing the aero, 30-60 if possible, raise it up to -15/-15, and try 5/3 ARB, mabye drop rear springs by 1.0/2.0, see if that helps
 
MrPainCake
try balancing the aero, 30-60 if possible, raise it up to -15/-15, and try 5/3 ARB, mabye drop rear springs by 1.0/2.0, see if that helps
Click to expand...

kk. Will give that a try :)

Won't be able to do much racing over the next few days ;(

Love this car though!
It looks sooo smexy! :D
 
I haven't driven the Speed 12 for other than drift trials for ages... the last time was to get under 7 minutes on the 'Ring on Sports Hard tyres back at the start of GT5! There are some settings that usually work on FR cars that understeer though... Try the following...

DO NOT fit chassis reinforcement/strengthening - this just makes the understeer worse
Max front downforce (reduce rear wing angle to get you ppts to the right level)
Stiffer front springs
ARB's at 2,6
Brakes: start at 5,7 and make progressively more rear biased
Don't be tempted to use -ve rear toe as this will kill your exit speed

No chassis reinforcement and max front wing are the most important things... I'm assuming you're on race tyres, so you can do without a bit of rear wing to allow more front wing and exit traction will still be OK. The more you trail brake the more rear bias you want on your brakes... until the car oversteers violently when you release the brakes... when it does this, knock the rear bais down 1 click.

Edit:

If you're working to a PPT limt you could also add rear ballast and then increase power to get the ppts' back... rear ballast will help the car rotate on entry to corners.
 
Last edited:
Stotty
I haven't driven the Speed 12 for other than drift trials for ages... the last time was to get under 7 minutes on the 'Ring on Sports Hard tyres back at the start of GT5! There are some settings that usually work on FR cars that understeer though... Try the following...

DO NOT fit chassis reinforcement/strengthening - this just makes the understeer worse
Max front downforce (reduce rear wing angle to get you ppts to the right level)
Stiffer front springs
ARB's at 2,6
Brakes: start at 5,7 and make progressively more rear biased
Don't be tempted to use -ve rear toe as this will kill your exit speed

No chassis reinforcement and max front wing are the most important things... I'm assuming you're on race tyres, so you can do without a bit of rear wing to allow more front wing and exit traction will still be OK. The more you trail brake the more rear bias you want on your brakes... until the car oversteers violently when you release the brakes... when it does this, knock the rear bais down 1 click.

Edit:

If you're working to a PPT limt you could also add rear ballast and then increase power to get the ppts' back... rear ballast will help the car rotate on entry to corners.
Click to expand...

Awesome. Will give that a try :)

Thanks
 

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