Chevy Corvette Race Car '63 Problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter CMcraz23
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I am currently at the Professional Hall. I am at the one set of races, 5 I believe that focus on cars before 1970... I believe. Anyway, I cannot seem to win the 2 remaining races. the Cote d' Azur and the Mazda Laguna Seca. I tried in A-Spec and B-Spec. no luck. My Race Car is Stock. I didnt mod it at all. 600hp I believe. Any Advice or Reccommandtions are appreciated. Thanks! :)
 
CMcraz23
I am currently at the Professional Hall. I am at the one set of races, 5 I believe that focus on cars before 1970... I believe. Anyway, I cannot seem to win the 2 remaining races. the Cote d' Azur and the Mazda Laguna Seca. I tried in A-Spec and B-Spec. no luck. My Race Car is Stock. I didnt mod it at all. 600hp I believe. Any Advice or Reccommandtions are appreciated. Thanks! :)

Maybe you should mod it then 👍
 
We need to know more about your problems if you want help, I guess. Understeer bothering you? Oversteer? Gear ratios all wrong? What kind of cars are the opposition? Do you still have the driving aids on? In danger of stating the obvious, make sure you get all the basics in by getting comfortable with the licence tests.

From what I remember, the Vette race car was understeering like crazy.. so the first thing you could try is softening the rear springs and dampers to about 50-60% of the front values, and softening the stabilizers to match. If all else fails, use another car. If I recall correctly, I wrote the 63 Vette off as rubbish quickly... and never drove it again :P

(Shouldn't this be in the tuning/settings forum?)
 
Well I tell you guys what, ( and anyone else that finds this,) I will get all the info tomorrow morning. I dont got the PS2 on now... so I'll do it tomorrow. Thank you! And Ill provide all the information. Im not car guy, I don't know how to tune at all. Thanks.
 
The C2 race car is excellent, in my opinion. It doesn't drive like current cars, so it takes some getting used to. If you try and try, but still can't win those races, find a way to get the GT40 race car. It will embarass the field.
 
Just exit and reenter until neither the Cobra or the Buick Special are in the field - you should then be able to win with one arm tied behind your back.

However as you have already won at both Nurburgring Nordschleife and Fuji Speedway 80's I can't for the life of me work out why these two tracks (especially Côte d'Azur) should cause you any problem at all :confused:
 
Just gave this one a try. Just like I remembered, the car was absolutely horrible to drive (the main issue was the braking and overall lack of grip). It's definitely a car for the 'experienced' driver as it requires some skill in braking/turning... and I found it was faster to actually set up corners early and powerslide it a little.

Despite all this, I passed the AC 427 just after the corkscrew on laguna seca on the first lap... so I'm guessing practice is where it's at ;) If you want an easier car to win this series easily with though.. get the Buick Special.
 
I love the old Vette race car! Mine handles great...although I tuned it a good bit, it handled great stock too. I actually can set very fast laptimes very easily. Oh, and to get rid of understeer you should soften the FRONT suspension, not the rear ;) Softening the rear will just make it worse.
 
Moloch_horridus
Just exit and reenter until neither the Cobra or the Buick Special are in the field - you should then be able to win with one arm tied behind your back.

However as you have already won at both Nurburgring Nordschleife and Fuji Speedway 80's I can't for the life of me work out why these two tracks (especially Côte d'Azur) should cause you any problem at all :confused:

Yeah it was ALWAYS the stupid Buick Special or the AC car!!!!! But I will try that.
 
Ske
Just gave this one a try. Just like I remembered, the car was absolutely horrible to drive (the main issue was the braking and overall lack of grip). It's definitely a car for the 'experienced' driver as it requires some skill in braking/turning... and I found it was faster to actually set up corners early and powerslide it a little.

Despite all this, I passed the AC 427 just after the corkscrew on laguna seca on the first lap... so I'm guessing practice is where it's at ;) If you want an easier car to win this series easily with though.. get the Buick Special.


Well I could get the Special, but I really dont want to put in to much money for 2 races.... Unless I can use it again.. 💡
 
u can allways use the buick.. it´s a wonderful car to drive.. but DON`T do as I do..

rear suspention full
rear suspention at lowest

then u get a nice look at it to.. and if u take a turn to fast u get some nice sparks =)

have fun with the buick
(I bought it now a 77% and love it)
 
InZan3
u can allways use the buick.. it´s a wonderful car to drive.. but DON`T do as I do..

rear suspention full
rear suspention at lowest

then u get a nice look at it to.. and if u take a turn to fast u get some nice sparks =)

have fun with the buick
(I bought it now a 77% and love it)

77% huh? I got mine far earlier. In fact, I got mine shortly after I got my butt kicked by one in an American race somewhere... I was in a comfortable second place, but this damn Buick was lapping so quickly, it practically had me surrounded.. :sick:
 
haha think i did some of the AM cups in my BIG ass dodge ram @ around 800-900hp
the rest i did in a corvette stingray with a wing
and camaro LM

motto: If it comes in your way or so.. just push it off the road
 
JTSnooks
Oh, and to get rid of understeer you should soften the FRONT suspension, not the rear ;) Softening the rear will just make it worse.

Sadly, GT4 is not like real life. The stiffer end will have the most grip in this game, so springs at 10/5 helped some. Gonna try making the whole thing even stiffer and see how it goes.
 
CMcraz23
how much $$ we takin about for a cobra

Hoho! It´s expensive!! ( Don´t know exactly, but somewhere from 300.000 and up) But all worth it! It´s also allowed in the 1000 miles series, and it puts all the other cars to shame there. And not to mension Classic muscle car races in american hall.
 
Ske
Sadly, GT4 is not like real life. The stiffer end will have the most grip in this game, so springs at 10/5 helped some. Gonna try making the whole thing even stiffer and see how it goes.

And the Vette actually has downforce in GT4!!! Not likely IRL. Like the GT40, whom IRL has lift instead...
 
InZan3
the ac is cheaper i think..

I got an idea that they are both 500000 credits. I think the gearing is different - the AC cobra with a standard cog set has a higher top speed, I think, though I do not know how I found that out, unless one of the missions or licenses involves a Shelby Cobra and a long piece of road, or perhaps I drove the Shelby in arcade mode. The one I bought was the AC.

Price is not the buying incentive, since they both cost the same, and both are fast enough to at least win the 1000 miles! comp, so I don't think one is more competitive than the other. But, the Shelby is available in one colour scheme only, blue with white stripes, while the AC has some really rather nice colours which look particularly fetching on that curvy body. So if blue with white stripes is not your thing, the AC is your car. The catch, however, is the Shelby manufacturers cup. You can enter a Shelby Cobra or a Shelby Series x in these events, but every last AI goon I saw in any one of those races turned up in a Cobra, which was blue, and had white stripes. You cannot enter an AC Cobra.

So if you buy the AC, you need to purchase an additional car to win the Shelby series. So you either pay 500000 extra credits for a car that's exactly like one you already have except slower and blue with white stripes, but is eligible for the event and (probably) competitive, or you spend around 100000 on a Series x then take some brave pills before entering a whole stack of 200 point races where you cannot qualify on pole, and you are toast in a straight line.

The Series x (can't remember if it's a series 1 or 2) can win, because it is far better in the corners, but it's a tough series in that car, and I couldn't win on the long straights of New York without the great leveller that is nitrous oxide. Others might do better. Of course, you could probably spend 30 grand on the Series wotsit and have a car that utterly squashes the opposition for far less outlay than a 500000 credit Shelby Cobra, in blue, and with white stripes.
 
Ske
Sadly, GT4 is not like real life. The stiffer end will have the most grip in this game, so springs at 10/5 helped some. Gonna try making the whole thing even stiffer and see how it goes.
Softening the rear just makes the situation worse, but I managed to cure the understeer in my 'Vette by softening the front end. Of course you have to take different driving styles into account too.
 
Greycap
Softening the rear just makes the situation worse, but I managed to cure the understeer in my 'Vette by softening the front end. Of course you have to take different driving styles into account too.

Didn't work like that for me (DS2 user). 1.40 on seca (lap 1) with f9/r10, and 1.34.5 with f10/r6.5 (dampers/bars set to match). I got a lot better turn-in with the stiffer front, and it even gave me the ability to trailbrake a little (S2 tires).

The big problem with this car is still the lack of grip when braking though. Not sure what to do with that, all I know for sure is that you gotta leave your RL tuning knowledge at the door when starting up this game :indiff:
 
I dropped the front from 11.0 to 9.0 and kept the rear at 10.0. El Capitan became significantly easier and yes, I'm a trail-braking DS2 user too. Try stabilizers F4/R7.
 
Weird, doesn't do it for me at all. All I get is more push with those settings.
 
Greycap
I dropped the front from 11.0 to 9.0 and kept the rear at 10.0. El Capitan became significantly easier and yes, I'm a trail-braking DS2 user too. Try stabilizers F4/R7.
That's what I figured. Also, I think those are the same stabilizer settings I have on mine, although I don't have a PS2 anymore so I can't check :( For a FR car, softening the front and/or stiffening the rear will help ease any understeer, you just have to make sure not to go too far. An fully-customizeable LSD is extremely helpful too. And actually, it is unlike real life, because generally in real life with a race car, stiffer is better, but in GT4 you lose too much grip when you stiffen the suspension, so a softer front suspension will make it hold the road better and understeer less.
 
JTSnooks
That's what I figured. Also, I think those are the same stabilizer settings I have on mine, although I don't have a PS2 anymore so I can't check :( For a FR car, softening the front and/or stiffening the rear will help ease any understeer, you just have to make sure not to go too far. An fully-customizeable LSD is extremely helpful too. And actually, it is unlike real life, because generally in real life with a race car, stiffer is better, but in GT4 you lose too much grip when you stiffen the suspension, so a softer front suspension will make it hold the road better and understeer less.


It really doesn't sound like we're even playing the same game... My copy of GT4 sadly does not work like that :indiff:
 
Ske
It really doesn't sound like we're even playing the same game... My copy of GT4 sadly does not work like that :indiff:

I wonder if this might be another NTSC / PAL difference? On mine I would reduce understeer by stiffening the rear, usually the anti-roll bar.

What might work on the 'Vette, though, if playing with the spring rates and damper settings is not working, is to introduce a little toe-in to the front, or toe-out to the rear. But just one or two clicks away from where they are. Too much toe hurts stability and increases tyre wear.
 
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