PS4 Clio Cup, snap oversteer, Donington.

Discussion in 'Project CARS 1' started by DaveTheStalker, May 15, 2015.

  1. PiotrGT

    PiotrGT

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    My two laps, aids set to off but It was choosen "all", don't know if it makes a difference with systems below set to off. With DS4.

    EDIT:Switched to real, there was a bit more oversteer and car was a bit harder to control. I got similar time though.
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2015
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  2. DG_Silva

    DG_Silva

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    The best way to drive the Clio is to grab it by the scruff of it's neck and push hard. When I saw 1:24, I thought that was a bit slow, here's my lap (sorry for the lack of sound, blame DXTory):

     
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  3. DaveTheStalker

    DaveTheStalker Premium

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    What does SMS need to do to fix the small corrections in your line from being stabbing or jerking?
     
  4. LogiForce

    LogiForce Premium

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    Here's how I run... (albeit with CSWv2 on PC)

    - Tyre Pressure 1.9 bar all-around (info directly from Dunlop tyre guy at the track)
    - Brake Bias 50/50

    Drives are fun for me, and exactly how I saw them behave at the track. Yes, they do have a light rear-end which means that they are basically two wheeling on the front wheels.

    Will have a go at Donny to see how she flies. Was a blast at Nords for me at least. Which is a more tricky track than Donny. Will post a time in this post when I did.

    Driving the Clio is all about balancing the car with throttle and brake inputs. Don't full throttle it through a corner, but also try not to go through a corner without throttle. Just keep a slightly bit of power applied so it doesn't start to brake on the engine, which can cause a lift-off oversteer reaction.
    It's all in keeping momentum through the corners with a FWD car, which also means that the lines through the corner differ from RWD. Often the entry is a slightly bit further in than with a RWD from my experience.
     
  5. PiotrGT

    PiotrGT

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    I'm playing on DS4, it will never be as smooth when it comes to racing line as a wheel. Maybe if I increase deadzone it will be better.
     
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  6. LogiForce

    LogiForce Premium

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    Okay, I had some time on Donigton National. The downhill corner, Craner Curves, is pretty easy. Aim for about 1 meter off of the sign and turn into that while going flat out. The tricky bit is braking for the 'Old Hairpin'. This is hard on the brakes and letting off of them slowly and simultaniously starting to feed in some power again almost at the exact moment the rear becomes light and wishes to turn around on you. Than when the car stabilizes and you know you have it, flat out.

    Heck, it's almost like you have to be Collin McRea at that bit. When in doubt... flat out! :D

    My Time: 1:18.15

    That time goes to show that having a wheel doesn't say anything in terms of getting your laptimes in. It might be easier to be consistant though. Cause I could run 1:18's all day long, at least until concentration would drop. :)
     
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  7. Magdelayna

    Magdelayna

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    I used the settings for the Clio that were posted earlier in the thread,and then went onto to do the 2 Donington races in my 2nd season. They worked out pretty well,i managed to get 2 good wins - my best time was around 1:20.1

    The downhill section caused me less problems,the car felt more stable and could correct it easier if it went wayward but i did lose it once in the 2nd race,but i managed to come back and win hehe.

    Hoping for good things at Snetterton aswell - need to build points up as i think i will struggle at Oulton.
     
  8. m3lover1

    m3lover1

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    Alright slightly offtopic, how the hell should I navigate the Dentons and Cascades in Oulton Park Fosters?? Lol
     
  9. bleeder

    bleeder

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    i used your 1.90 tyre pressures for a race round Brands GP and although the handling was fine, i found one tyre was getting cold, so i reverted to my 1.60 fronts/1.40 rears and got an extra second per lap out of them. i'm thinking this is probably because of the other tuning i've done to my Clio which doesn't seem to fit the higher pressures as well.

    tweaks upon tweaks.... great fun though!
     
  10. LogiForce

    LogiForce Premium

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    Sounds like you might be cocking a wheel. Which is normal with the Clio. You could try to fiddle with the anti-roll bars in this case.

    Also lower tyre pressures do give more grip and faster laptimes, but it also causes extra wear. It's a balancing act. ;)

    This might be useful...

    Renault Clio Cup manual: http://www.cliocup.cz/sites/default/files/data/user_manual.pdf

    Ooops, wrong year model.

    This one: http://www.manualslib.com/manual/613402/Renault-2013-Clio-Cup.html
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2015
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  11. bleeder

    bleeder

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    hahaha where do you even get this stuff? as if I didn't have enough to read in the game itself... :p
     
  12. LogiForce

    LogiForce Premium

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    Edit the post. Grabbed the old models manual. Added the 2013 model.


    I get this stuff with a google search. You can use real world setup information in Project CARS, unlike in Gran Turismo. So you can start with info from manuals for a basic OEM setup. Than fiddle from there on. ;)

    Also we (WMD) had to do a lot of information gathering for the developers to aid in getting the game's content as accurate as possible. So I kinda know what's out there already.
     
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  13. PiotrGT

    PiotrGT

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    But I have to agree, it looks weird. I'll tweak with some settings and I'll try to set better laptime today.
     
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  14. NLxAROSA

    NLxAROSA Premium

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    We could have a little time trial challenge with the Clio at Donington Park National. :) I'm at 1:18.136 so far (Time Trial, so no tuning), with plenty to improve. Only aid I use is ABS.
     
  15. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    PM me if you want the real car setup ( caster, spring rate, tire pressure, LSD specs- preload, ramp angle/lock ratio, sway bars, camber and toe, damper for dry /wet - will need to adapt as the real one has adjustments in clicks ) The stock clio setup in pcars is not really accurate ( one of the suspension parameter uses previous gen clio cup ), it should be at least interesting to try the base setup provided by Renault Sport. I might also be able to help with Lancer FQ400 :)
     
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  16. Johnnypenso

    Johnnypenso Premium

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    If only one suspension parameter is off why don't you just share it with us and we can all use it if desired?
     
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  17. NLxAROSA

    NLxAROSA Premium

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    I for one would welcome a real-life replica tuning section in here. :tup:
     
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  18. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    Unfortunately not just one is off :( I was interested in pcars 2013 clio as I have made previous gen NA clio cup for GT6. I won't post it in threads as I have been getting negative vibe from Pcars fans here as I have GT6 background and doing replicas :( I will only share through PM to those who genuinely wanted to try real life setup which is a lot different than pcars stock setup ( not just suspension )


    I don't have Pcars :(
     
  19. NLxAROSA

    NLxAROSA Premium

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    I think the people with positive vibe outweigh the negative ones. Surely, no one can object having real-life settings in what's supposed to be a real-life sim? I've never let negatives stop me when I still had my GT5P tuning shop, I posted for the people that liked it, not for the ones that didn't. :tup:

    Not having PCars makes it difficult for you to validate your settings though. :lol:

    That said, I could start by dialing in those FQ400 settings you shared earlier, and I'd be happy to post them in the tuning section after testing. :tup:
     
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  20. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    I prefer to share the setup with people who really wanted to use real life setup, it's not yet tested on pcars anyway:) I have one member already sent a PM and will start to write them up, I have to digest the damper curve chart as well :p it uses Eibach red on front and yellow on rear paired with Sachs RD series damper with surprisingly lower damper force than pcars, the front damper rebound in pcars for stock clio cup is 22500N/m/s right ? The damper curve of 2013 clio cup is about a third of it on full close ( hardest ) out of 20 clicks adjustment. Bump stop of the real clio is 30mm front and 35mm rear. Now I have to translate the clicks in baseline engineer sheet to damper force ( dry and wet difference is in the damper stiffness ) :D Not sure what will happen on the pcars clio with the setup :scared:

    Just checked the damper curve, it's measured at 0.52 m/s and pcars may have use 1m/s :(
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2015
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  21. Sprite

    Sprite Premium

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    That would be me :D

    Just done some basics around Brans and what I have so far is a little more understeer but far more controllable liftoff oversteer. I need to get a little more grip front end so I can really turn in under acceleration without drifting out wide too much.

    @Ridox2JZGTE I've sent you a PM with my settings as they are at the moment.
     
  22. Ridox2JZGTE

    Ridox2JZGTE

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    And I just replied :) Play with front sway bar first, use the damper that you have now if you wish. I have wrote about the toe alignment in PM. You can also try play with tire pressure.
     
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  23. Sprite

    Sprite Premium

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    The setup is definitely heading I the correct direction. I'll jump back in on Thursday or Friday and tweak it some more.

    I'll then start doing laps round the Ring and others to get a feel and see what else can be done.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2015
  24. Omnis

    Omnis Staff Emeritus

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    Softening the rear sway bar and the rear dampers' slow rebound will usually help. But you're probably gonna have to drive the piss out of it to keep it from pushing too much on a FWD.
     
  25. Sprite

    Sprite Premium

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    Could some of you post up some lap times of Brans Hatch GP so I can see if I'm pushing enough. I know I'm not as fast as some of you but if i know how fast or slow I am I'll know if I'm getting the best out of the tune and the car.

    I'm currently putting in low 1.41s but I know I can make some more time in parts. I just need to have more guts and better lines.

    BTW that's with driving aids set to real and using auto gears (I don't have a shifter or clutch - guess I could use auto clutch and the paddles) also all other driving aids off etc.

    Cheers.

    Edit- this is a video I've been using for instruction of the course.

     
    Last edited: May 17, 2015
  26. HBR-Roadhog

    HBR-Roadhog

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    Yes you should set it to auto clutch and use the paddles. Auto trans is almost always slower than a manual simply due to the fact that you do not have control over when shifts are made. Sometimes you may have a need to shift early or late even ride all the way up to the rev limiter rather than up shifting as you enter a corner. Sometimes you can even pick up time in a corner by shifting at just the right spot as that can pull your car in a little and allow you to attain higher exit speed where if it shifted auto in may force you to lift in order to stay on the track
     
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  27. Johnnypenso

    Johnnypenso Premium

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    1:38.446 is the top time with 21 drivers under 1:40. 112 total entries.
    http://cars-stats-steam.wmdportal.com/index.php/leaderboard?track=1988984740&vehicle=3646257473

    Good advice. Sometimes the transmission is the easiest and quickest way to balance the car in corners. Timing your gear changes on the fly can help encourage over or understeer and help stabilize the car in sometimes unstable corners.
     
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  28. KamyKaze1098

    KamyKaze1098

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  29. Sprite

    Sprite Premium

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    @Johnnypenso thanks for the info. So there is a potential 2.8sec to knock off. I need to be a little braver and switch to manual gears too.

    @HBR-Roadhog also thanks for your input. I'm not the fastest driver by a long way and don't have a huge amount of experience with a real sim like this.

    Hopefully with it being a Bankholiday weekend in the UK I'll get a bit more track time.
     
  30. NLxAROSA

    NLxAROSA Premium

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    For the setup gurus, please note that the model in Project CARS is the 2014 model, which differs on several points from the 2013 model. Haven't been able to locate a manual so far...