ClubSport Pedals problem [read OP for info]

  • Thread starter Thread starter Energizerrr
  • 160 comments
  • 14,754 views
Energizerrr
Fanatec replied, they're sending me new sensor. :cheers:
Click to expand...

Great news
Their probably at the Charades level around now at the party.
Hope you don't open your package and find. Party popper. 8^)
 
novadave
let me see if i can be of any help.

there are three common issues with the clubsport pedals.
the first would be the loosening of the setscrews that are used to lock the pedal pivot pins in the proper position.
if these screws are loose the symptons would be an erratic function in the games telemetry - example ( you press the throttle fully but the telemetry shows that you are not full throttle.
if they are loose make sure before tightening them that the chamfer spot ( a small drill mark ) is inline with the setscrew threaded hole - if not the screws will keep on becoming loose.

next sympton would be pedals that work intermittently.
sometimes they work well - sometimes they do not.
the problem is often at the area where the sensor wires are soldered to the sensor ( as the pedals move the wires near the sensor become broken )
look closely at that point for any cracked wire insulation and wiggle the wires while pressing the pedal with your hand.

the next area would be the sensor wiring socket connections on the pedals circuitboard ( they are often loose in the socket ) wiggling them would confirm this.

hope this helps.
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hey buddy, i am having the above issues, are you able to direct me where these sensor wires etc are?
 
Energizerrr
Nah Nova, it's not loose screws, I tightened them all and almost broke my allen key and it's still not working. ALso I checked every connector and tightened it and still the same result.


New video:

Click to expand...


Do not forget that you can tighten those setscrews as much as you want but if the pivotpin is not in the proper position the sensor will not be able to detect the pedals position properly.
the pin has only one proper position.
if you remove any of the setscrews and look closely at the end of the screw you will see that it is pointed - this point must be aligned with a drill mark on the pin - the only way to see if it aligns is to remove a screw and visually look into the threade hole - if it is not in alignment you must slowly rotate the pin until you see the mark - then without turning the pin or moving the pedal insert and tighten the screw.
at the end of the pin is a magnet that is in front of the sensor - when you press the pedal - the pin rotates in it axis - this in turn changes the signal that the sensor sends to the circuitboard.
if you look at the pedal telematry and press the pedal slowly and the bar graph goes up smoothly but will not reach 100% then it is the pin that is out of alignment ( setscrew has been loose so the pin turned ).

if the telematry shows a verry erratic movement of the bar then it is a problem with either the sensor or the sensor wires and terminals - in 98 % of cases it is the wiring at the very exit of the sensor ( at the solder connections under the shrink tube ).
the sensor itself is rarely the cause ( LOOK AT THOSE WIRES CAREFULLY )
 
novadave
Do not forget that you can tighten those setscrews as much as you want but if the pivotpin is not in the proper position the sensor will not be able to detect the pedals position properly.
the pin has only one proper position.
if you remove any of the setscrews and look closely at the end of the screw you will see that it is pointed - this point must be aligned with a drill mark on the pin - the only way to see if it aligns is to remove a screw and visually look into the threade hole - if it is not in alignment you must slowly rotate the pin until you see the mark - then without turning the pin or moving the pedal insert and tighten the screw.
at the end of the pin is a magnet that is in front of the sensor - when you press the pedal - the pin rotates in it axis - this in turn changes the signal that the sensor sends to the circuitboard.
if you look at the pedal telematry and press the pedal slowly and the bar graph goes up smoothly but will not reach 100% then it is the pin that is out of alignment ( setscrew has been loose so the pin turned ).

if the telematry shows a verry erratic movement of the bar then it is a problem with either the sensor or the sensor wires and terminals - in 98 % of cases it is the wiring at the very exit of the sensor ( at the solder connections under the shrink tube ).
the sensor itself is rarely the cause ( LOOK AT THOSE WIRES CAREFULLY )
Click to expand...

be great if there was a video tutorial or some photos of this. all the vids in this thread has been removed :(
 
Today at noon I got an email from UPS, my sensors are shipped.
Expecting delivery on 30th.

:D



Last Location: Departed - Nurnberg, Germany.
 
Energizerrr
Today at noon I got an email from UPS, my sensors are shipped.
Expecting delivery on 30th.

:D



Last Location: Departed - Nurnberg, Germany.
Click to expand...

Got the same mail, also in Nurnberg right now, arrival tomorrow :)

1 question though...
The little screws that hold the loadcell into place, are they magnetic also..?

1 of them is completly stuck, I can still remove the cell but has to be done with some force and I'm not sure if this can damage the magnet if there is one.
 
I've never taken apart my pedals nor have I removed the load cell. So I can't give you an answer. :I
And there are no magnets on the brake, since it uses load cell.
 
Energizerrr
I finished installing and the clutch is working flawlessly.
:cheers:
Click to expand...

Did they send a throttle too.
Also where the cables are attached on the sensor(pedal arm) are they secured with an electrical block( little white plastic square).

Cheers.
 
Nice.

Anyone else having issues with the site on iPhone. Keep getting errors and stuff. Hard to post or view anything.
 
Spagetti69
Nice.

Anyone else having issues with the site on iPhone. Keep getting errors and stuff. Hard to post or view anything.
Click to expand...

Eh, seems like the site is lagging slightly. I am on fiber optic connection here @ work. All other sites fine, this one, a little sluggish.
 
GTPlanet is undergoing some major server issues, whole site was down yesterday for about 4 hours and now it's running painfully slow.
Jordan is working on restoring it.
 
Energizerrr
I finished installing and the clutch is working flawlessly.
:cheers:
Click to expand...

Nice to hear....I'm still in the same boat as before, next mail to e-support has been sent.
I think I just have a faulty unit :ouch:

Real test of patience, 3weeks and going looking at the CSR-E and can't drive it :grumpy:
 
bladezzz
Nice to hear....I'm still in the same boat as before, next mail to e-support has been sent.
I think I just have a faulty unit :ouch:

Real test of patience, 3weeks and going looking at the CSR-E and can't drive it :grumpy:
Click to expand...

Wait, so you installed and it's still not working? Ouch...
 
Well hopefully the Fanatec headquarters are up and running after the festive season.

Hope they all sorted out who's car they ended up with after the party and such.

Sent off my little sensor problem to them and will report on my findings.
My last issue was felt with very swiftly and I hope to report similar findings.
 
I'm getting erratic sensor response from my clutch and throttle pedals. Messing with the white 4-pin connector into the sensor causes the telemetry to jump around.

Any suggestions for tightening up the 4-pin connectors so the connection stays consistent?
 
When the connector is snapped together, i can wiggle it and the telemetry meter jumps. Maybe replacing the sensor with the receiving, pinned end of the connector will fix the issue.
 
Update on my sensor. Received UPS tracking number for my replacement sensor. I am pleased to say.
 
Spagetti69
Update on my sensor. Received UPS tracking number for my replacement sensor. I am pleased to say.
Click to expand...


Quick ? This is something I have not really seen brought up or taken light of.

How often should we clean and grease the pedals to ensure proper use and longevity? Honestly, I use my set 5-15hrs max / week unless I have many tourney's or leagues via iRacing.

As many know on here, my clutch sensor went faulty. It was replaced very promptly via support/service. Now, did I do something here to make this occur? I took them apart a few times back in June last year (for tuning kit reasons), but the issue never showed until mid-october.

I air-spray my electronics when they get slightly dusty. If there ever is a squeak or something not right in the spring, i'll simply grease and clean the area. Normally no issue. I am NOT hard on them, only the brake @ times. And I have a couple spare load-cell's just in case :sly:

Now, my base allen-screw was tight, and the sensor went. Is this something of an anomaly, or something I need to focus on to ensure a long life with them? I LOVE my CSP's. Have considered CST's, but why really? I might down the road, but for now, the CSP's are amazing.

The load-cell myth thread is BS. I'll go toe to toe with anyone with their setup, and I'll show you what a load-cell does for you. Funny thing is, that OP even modded his brake to emulate a load-cell, so where is his gripe with it? Ala politicians......
 
AGP5000
Quick ? This is something I have not really seen brought up or taken light of.

How often should we clean and grease the pedals to ensure proper use and longevity? Honestly, I use my set 5-15hrs max / week unless I have many tourney's or leagues via iRacing.

As many know on here, my clutch sensor went faulty. It was replaced very promptly via support/service. Now, did I do something here to make this occur? I took them apart a few times back in June last year (for tuning kit reasons), but the issue never showed until mid-october.

I air-spray my electronics when they get slightly dusty. If there ever is a squeak or something not right in the spring, i'll simply grease and clean the area. Normally no issue. I am NOT hard on them, only the brake @ times. And I have a couple spare load-cell's just in case :sly:

Now, my base allen-screw was tight, and the sensor went. Is this something of an anomaly, or something I need to focus on to ensure a long life with them? I LOVE my CSP's. Have considered CST's, but why really? I might down the road, but for now, the CSP's are amazing.

The load-cell myth thread is BS. I'll go toe to toe with anyone with their setup, and I'll show you what a load-cell does for you. Funny thing is, that OP even modded his brake to emulate a load-cell, so where is his gripe with it? Ala politicians......
Click to expand...

when it comes to cleaning it depends on the room enviroment - if it is dusty or you have animals the pedals will require more cleaning intervals.
for lubrication DO NOT use dry lubricant - in my testing i have noticed a chemical reaction to the lube with the brass liner in the pedal block. this will produce a black colored gue. this reaction will eventually cause the pedals to stick.
i use an engine breakin lube or the famous STP Engine oil treatment - no chemical reaction and will not run off - it will even stop the p.u. foam insert from hardening.once a year should be the normal lube interval.

as for the sensors problems are usually caused by the soldered wires at the sensor board area - when we move the pedals up and down over time the wires will eventually break off - i solved the problem with mine by installing a tywrapp to hold the wire near the pedal - this will eliminate the wire breaking off at the soldered point
 

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