Controller with Wheel at same time

  • Thread starter dahcmai
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dahcmai

dahcmai

153
United States
Michigan
Waesilan
Is there a way to play single player with the Wheel and switch to a controller without having to reset the playstation?

I lose the ability to steer if that wheel was hooked up and I switch over to a controller even if I unplug the wheel completely. No idea why it does that, but I have to reset the entire playstation to get steering back.

It's just annoying to switch drivers during a race when one is used to the controller and the other uses a wheel.
 
I'm not completely sure what you are asking, but the wheel will start as controller 1, but you can assign a ds3 to be controller 1 at the same time. Once the game is loaded, press and hold the PS-button on the ds3. This will bring up a controller menu in which you can set the current controller to 1 (this will not disturb the wheel). Now you can use both the wheel and the ds3 controller at the same time.

I use it to allow the co-driver to acces the RA-menu while doing online endurance races with the wheel.
 
Are you resetting the controller to #1 controller after pluging the wheel in? This should let the controller work after unpluging the wheel.
 
opelgt1969
Are you resetting the controller to #1 controller after pluging the wheel in? This should let the controller work after unpluging the wheel.
Click to expand...

👍


Don't forget to calibrate the pedals during GT Academy. You don't have to do that anymore for GT5.
 
That's weird. I could have sworn it isn't like that anymore. I'll check right now. Sorry, if I was wrong.

AAAAND I never say "Sworn" lol

I'm using a DFGT.

another_jakhole
👍


Don't forget to calibrate the pedals during GT Academy. You don't have to do that anymore for GT5.
Click to expand...
edit 1
Let's kick his ass! He lied! Go for the go-nads!


Edit 2
I did it two different ways.


First way, I calibrated the pedals by pushing them down a small amount when I was on the track. It was too sensitive.

2
Second way, I pushed the gas pedal all the way down and the brake pedal only halfway, both while the GT loading screen was showing for the track to be loaded. It turned out to be fine. If anyone else could give their input, it'll be appreciated.
 
Last edited:
dahcmai
Is there a way to play single player with the Wheel and switch to a controller without having to reset the playstation?

I lose the ability to steer if that wheel was hooked up and I switch over to a controller even if I unplug the wheel completely. No idea why it does that, but I have to reset the entire playstation to get steering back.

It's just annoying to switch drivers during a race when one is used to the controller and the other uses a wheel.
Click to expand...

You don't have to reset to insert a wheel... just plug it in. You don't have to reset to unplug one... just take the plug out.

The problem is what controller is assigned to be the primary controller. Never start the game/console with the wheel plugged in - so your DS3 is assigned as controller #1. Never plug the wheel into the first USB port - so your DS3 is assigned as controller #1.
 
The DS3 needs to be controller #1 to function properly in the menus. This can be changed even after starting the game if the wheel has taken its place by bringing up the XMB and scrolling over to Accessory Settings in the Settings menu. This will make the wheel controller #2(you can check this by pressing X on the wheel on the same menu option).

However, this will disable steering on the DS3 just as the OP is concerned about. As to how to get it back I don't know, as I've never thought to try and would have assumed disconnecting the wheel should work. The only thing I can think of to try would be to disconnect the wheel and then switch the controller to #2 -- perhaps the game locks steering to #2 when set up this way. Otherwise, I guess your friends will just have to learn how to use the wheel.


TANGENT: I don't know about other wheels or how long it has been this way, but you don't need to calibrate the load-cell brake on clubsport pedals in GT5. I always needed to with my old pedals but not the CSPs.
 
Morgoth_666
The DS3 needs to be controller #1 to function properly in the menus. This can be changed even after starting the game if the wheel has taken its place by bringing up the XMB and scrolling over to Accessory Settings in the Settings menu. This will make the wheel controller #2(you can check this by pressing X on the wheel on the same menu option).

However, this will disable steering on the DS3 just as the OP is concerned about.
Click to expand...

No it doesn't. So long as the DS3 is controller #1, plugging the wheel in makes the wheel steer. Unplug the wheel and the DS3 steers. I know because I actually do this for some endurance races and have actually done this for cooperative races during LANs.

Plug the wheel into the second USB port after the game has started. You can hot swap at any time (less the time it takes to calibrate the wheel). No problems.
 
Famine
No it doesn't. So long as the DS3 is controller #1, plugging the wheel in makes the wheel steer. Unplug the wheel and the DS3 steers. I know because I actually do this for some endurance races and have actually done this for cooperative races during LANs.

Plug the wheel into the second USB port after the game has started. You can hot swap at any time (less the time it takes to calibrate the wheel). No problems.
Click to expand...

As I said, I've not tried switching to DS3 during gameplay. I said having both active will disable DS3 steering, which it does. I didn't mean to imply it was permanent. I've always assumed it would work as you described.

Just giving ideas since the OP said his steering wouldn't come back. Sounds like maybe using the wheel as #1 or having it in the first USB is causing a problem. I've never encountered differences between the 2 USB ports(or all 4 on my old PS3) but people often do say using the first one causes issues.
 
It depends on the wheel - I recall the G25 doesn't like it, but the DFGT is fine. To be safe I always have the controller charger plugged into port 1 (and my USB for backing up in port 4 - I've got a 60Gb fat too :D).

If the wheel is the primary controller, it leads to all sorts of odd behaviour with controllers. Best way is to simply allow the game to start up with the controller and then plug the wheel in (to USB port 2). You can swap as you like then and there's no odd behaviour - with the wheel plugged in you can drive fully with the wheel and with it unplugged you can drive fully with the controller.
 
I use USB port 1 for my G25 but I start the PS3 using the button on the DS2, and don't plug the wheel in until GT5 has started.

If the DS3 needs charged, it's plugged into USB port 2.
 
fifomaniak
Oh yes you do. Always, even on PC.
Click to expand...

Yup. Even on PC. Is it just a logitech thing?

I've noticed that everytime I put in a different game on ps3, if I don't press the brake before I start racing, there will always be a delay from when I press the brake to when the car brakes in the game. Same with PC.

You should always try to fully press your pedals before you start racing.
 
TomBrady
Yup. Even on PC. Is it just a logitech thing?

I've noticed that everytime I put in a different game on ps3, if I don't press the brake before I start racing, there will always be a delay from when I press the brake to when the car brakes in the game. Same with PC.

You should always try to fully press your pedals before you start racing.
Click to expand...
Actually, I always have even when I figured that it was changed starting about a couple months ago. I'd sometimes forget to do it and then, it would seem that it adjusts itself like I was talking about earlier. I was able to tell by turning on the HUD and looking at the Braking/Acceleration meters.
 
Famine
You don't have to reset to insert a wheel... just plug it in. You don't have to reset to unplug one... just take the plug out.

The problem is what controller is assigned to be the primary controller. Never start the game/console with the wheel plugged in - so your DS3 is assigned as controller #1. Never plug the wheel into the first USB port - so your DS3 is assigned as controller #1.
Click to expand...

I'm glad to know this, When playing with friends I've had to resort to using a controller:dopey:
 
TomBrady
Yup. Even on PC. Is it just a logitech thing?

I've noticed that everytime I put in a different game on ps3, if I don't press the brake before I start racing, there will always be a delay from when I press the brake to when the car brakes in the game. Same with PC.

You should always try to fully press your pedals before you start racing.
Click to expand...
Can you elaborate on that?

And how can you calibrate a G27 (in my case) while using PS3?
I mean, I switch on the console by the controller.
Then put the USB of the G27 (usually) on port 1 (first from left to right - I have 120GB console).
Then power up the G27 by plugging the power cable.
Then the wheel self-calibrates.
I power up GT5.
The wheel calibrates again and I play. DS3 is controller #1, G27 - controller #2 (presumably).
Am I doing something wrong?
I mean I didn't experienced any delay from throttle/brake as of now.
 
f1webberfan
Can you elaborate on that?

And how can you calibrate a G27 (in my case) while using PS3?
I mean, I switch on the console by the controller.
Then put the USB of the G27 (usually) on port 1 (first from left to right - I have 120GB console).
Then power up the G27 by plugging the power cable.
Then the wheel self-calibrates.
I power up GT5.
The wheel calibrates again and I play. DS3 is controller #1, G27 - controller #2 (presumably).
Am I doing something wrong?
I mean I didn't experienced any delay from throttle/brake as of now.
Click to expand...
All it is, that I'm aware of, is the first time you press the pedals there is a delay.

Push each pedal to the floor once after you plug the wheel in (after the game is started) and "calibration" is done.
If you push the pedals halfway as someone mentioned above, it'll just fix itself as soon as you push the pedal all the way down anyway, there's no actual "calibration" needed.
Of course this is DFGT experience, I think the G25/27 is the same in this regard though.
 
CSLACR
All it is, that I'm aware of, is the first time you press the pedals there is a delay.

Push each pedal to the floor once after you plug the wheel in (after the game is started) and "calibration" is done.
If you push the pedals halfway as someone mentioned above, it'll just fix itself as soon as you push the pedal all the way down anyway, there's no actual "calibration" needed.
Of course this is DFGT experience, I think the G25/27 is the same in this regard though.
Click to expand...

Both wheel and pedals need calibration. Wheel does it for itself using Force Feedback and turning it to the left and right (full range). You have to do this manually to pedals as they don't have any force feedback to press themselves on their own.
 
LOL! Didn't know that ...
But as CSLACR said ... if you "lose" only the first input to calibrate that's not a biggy, right?
 
fifomaniak
Both wheel and pedals need calibration. Wheel does it for itself using Force Feedback and turning it to the left and right (full range). You have to do this manually to pedals as they don't have any force feedback to press themselves on their own.
Click to expand...
You have to press the pedals to drive. I can't personally call plugging a wheel in and driving "calibrating" exactly.

The one, single effect you'll see if you don't push the pedals before you hit the track? You'll have about a .5 second delay when you press the brakes the first time. It would be true for the throttle too, but 99 times out of 100 I have the gas pedal down before the game actually gives me control. (meaning it's "calibrated" already when I hit the course)

f1webberfan
LOL! Didn't know that ...
But as CSLACR said ... if you "lose" only the first input to calibrate that's not a biggy, right?
Click to expand...
Not even that, it's just slightly delayed.
 
CSLACR
You have to press the pedals to drive. I can't personally call plugging a wheel in and driving "calibrating" exactly.

The one, single effect you'll see if you don't push the pedals before you hit the track? You'll have about a .5 second delay when you press the brakes the first time. It would be true for the throttle too, but 99 times out of 100 I have the gas pedal down before the game actually gives me control. (meaning it's "calibrated" already when I hit the course)

Not even that, it's just slightly delayed.
Click to expand...


The delay is, because you'll be calibrating them while on the track, not in the menus. It's better to have properly working brakes all the time on the track, believe me :)
 
Is it a delay for everyone? With my Driving Force, I never had a delay; what would happen is that any pedal input registered as 100% brake. So if I was careful I could set it so I'd reach 100% brake at half-pedal... if I wanted to.
 
fifomaniak
The delay is, because you'll be calibrating them while on the track, not in the menus. It's better to have properly working brakes all the time on the track, believe me :)
Click to expand...
Yes, this is a matter of great importance, we must notify the masses immediately before disaster strikes. :P
 
fifomaniak
Oh yes you do. Always, even on PC.
Click to expand...
You don't have to calibrate the pedals in GT5 anymore. I use a DFGT, so it's with that steering wheel at least.


No matter what, once you fully press the pedals down when you're driving, they'll work like they should.
 
another_jakhole
You don't have to calibrate the pedals in GT5 anymore. I use a DFGT, so it's with that steering wheel at least.


No matter what, once you fully press the pedals down when you're driving, they'll work like they should.
Click to expand...

So if you don't push them down fully, they won't work right? That would mean you need to calibrate them.
 
I switched from wheel to controller several times during league races. Only time I lost was the time spent picking up the controller.
 

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