I'm not completely sure. Are you looking to do something special with the 3800, or is something wrong? I'd probably have it taken to someone who can plug into the car's ECU and figure out what is going on. Ulike the older models that were born without the aid of a computer, it isn't as easy as adjusting the distributor to adjust the crank speeds.
it wont start. it'll turn, but wont start. Ive checked the fuel pump, the coils, the control module, and even the fuel filter. Someone told me it could possibly be the crank shaft sensor but i have no clue how to test that. Im just gonna take it to a shop. thanks for the help anyways.
To generally check the crank angle sensor you need a service manual that should give you the voltages to check for over the pins with a multimeter (voltmeter).
The service manuals tell you what to do for your paticular crank angle sensor as almost all engines using them will be different.
Like YSSMAN said if someone was to plug the Consult (readout) to your ECU you would get a error code for the crank angle sensor if that is the problem, if not it may show an error for something else.
^^^ what he said.
I had this problem before, and it did exactly what your's is doing.
though mine started by not re-starting, and insisting on cooling down first.
but yeah, get a manual, haynes or chiltons or something, and they'll tell you what the readouts should be.
P.S. It'll probly be a major pain in the ass to change, but worth the money, over having a shop do it
Although I may not have any experience with buicks, I will still give what I know so far.
Basic
Check your battery with a voltmeter. Your battery could be low on voltages and amps. When you crank your engine, your starter solenoid needs alot of current to create a strong magnetic field to spin the armature to stick out the start pinion gear and spin your flywheel/flex plate.
Now this one here is quite a while since I learned about GM's drivability, but it could be due to LOWWWWW motor oil in your buick. GM have this "Oil Pressure" switch thingy that is some safety device that will prevent your car from starting if your car is VERY LOOWWWW on motor oil. It will also put your car out of commission if your car is like toppled over on its side. Good stuff huh? 👍
If you know someone who have a scan tool, you can look for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) that will give you a set of numbers and letters followed by a description of what the codes mean. Sometimes, I catch a code where it didn't set the Check Engine Light. I would erase it and it still came back right when I set the car to "on". Most people will tell you that DTC will set the Check Engine Light on everytime, but in my case I don't believe them.
Advanced
1. If you have a voltmeter that have the Ohmmeter function to check for resistance, plug it into the sensor and see what it reads when the car is off.
If you get an "OFL" then that means that your sensor is not functioning properly. Check the input wire too because there could be an open circuit in the wire to the ECU.
2. If you have a noid light, which is an Ignition Spark Tester. It connects between your spark plug wire and spark plug itself. Now crank the engine and one of two things should happen.
1a. No spark seen from the Noid Light device. Your crankshaft sensor is defective!!! Since it is defective, it can't tell where the #1 cylinder is in the 4 stroke cycle. It needs to know where in TDC is piston number 1 is in order to send signals to the ECU/Ignition Module(depends on car) to fire spark plug number 1.
Defective = I CANT SEE ANYTHING! WHERE ARE YOU PISTON NUMBER ONE!!
2a. You see spark from the noid light. Look elsewhere, because your crankshaft sensor is working. It can see where the #1 piston is and when it reaches TDC. It is ok.
If you don't have any of those tools, I suggest you just go and buy a new crankshaft sensor since it isnt so expensive. It may or may not work.
Check your battery with a voltmeter. Your battery could be low on voltages and amps. When you crank your engine, your starter solenoid needs alot of current to create a strong magnetic field to spin the armature to stick out the start pinion gear and spin your flywheel/flex plate.
Now this one here is quite a while since I learned about GM's drivability, but it could be due to LOWWWWW motor oil in your buick. GM have this "Oil Pressure" switch thingy that is some safety device that will prevent your car from starting if your car is VERY LOOWWWW on motor oil. It will also put your car out of commission if your car is like toppled over on its side. Good stuff huh? 👍
Wow the oil pressure switch would have to be right next to the oil pump otherwise the engine would have to crank a fair bit before it starts, especially on cold starts. (this is why on many cars you see the oil pressure light go off after the engine started)
LittleBahamut
Most people will tell you that DTC will set the Check Engine Light on everytime, but in my case I don't believe them.
Yes, not all codes given by the ECU set off the check engine light, many codes are displayed for the factory service to see if you have been fiddling with the car, so they know whats been going on and can void your warranty.
His starter may work, but I had one experiance with a car that will crank with no engine starting. The battery's voltage was reading 12.24 volts when I tested it with a voltmeter so used a battery charger from the school and charged it up. After 15 minutes of fast charging, his car finally started.
I smell a crankwalk issue.
