Dad's car is making "that sound" again.

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Tornado

Tornado

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After about 15,000 miles (ish), dad's car is deciding it doesn't particularly like its head gasket once again, and seems to be ready to file for divorce for the 4th time. I was wondering if any of you members (particularly Duke) knew of a Neon engine block that wasn't such a terrible spouse before my dad goes out an buys another junker to swap engines with. Like if the Avenger, Eclipse or Sebring was any less prone to spectacular failures, or if the newer Magnum-powered ACRs were any more reliable.

Or for that matter, if its more...powerful siblings will fit into his car without much problem.
 
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woah 4 times is alot. Any reasons as to why? Hope it can be sorted out cheaply!
 
I dunno, really. I figured it was just because it was a first year model, but after the second engine went I figured dad is just unlucky.
Its usually pretty cheap to fix (he usually buys a Neon from the local junkyard for a grand or so and strips it of its engine and whatever else his car needs at the time, then sells the rest for scrap), so I doubt this time will be any different.
 
Have you talked to any guys who have done SRT swaps? I know it's been done...just found one on YouTube.

I mean, the smaller car, with the bigger engine? yikes.
 
If he's just buying junker engines, it's going to keep popping the headgasket. I can't believe he's done 3 swaps without just putting in the revised multi-layered-steel (MLS) headgasket. Unless the car has been run chronically with a blown headgasket, to the point that the top deck of the block and the head have eroded around the failure point, the MLS if properly replaced is a once-and-donce item. Don't go to NAPA or someplce like that - get the real MLS gasket kit over the parts counter at the dealer. It should be a permanent fix, and it's not all that hard.

If he's set on a junker, find a '99 model year Neon with a build date after about November of '98. That's when the MLS gasket hit the production stream, and they rarely have HG problems.

In answer to your other question, no there's no other block before about that time that is more immune to the problem, because the 2.0 SOHC and DOHC use a common short block, and the 2.4 DOHC uses the same block except with 1" higher deck and consequently 1" longer stroke. In fact the 2.4 DOHC and 2.0 DOHC use exactly the same head. But again, the MLS gasket will cure the problem.

If he wants to swap for fun, the 2.4 DOHC from any of the '95-'99 Cloud Cars (Stratus, Cirrus, Breeze) will fit in a Neon if it has the bulge hood. You can also use an early PT engine, which in fact has a better head than the older Clouds. The swap requires modifications to the engine mounts, and some tinkering with the ignition and fuel injection, but it works fine and it makes a hell of a daily driver.

I did my wife's '95 Neon that way in about 2000, and she drove it (and loved it) for 4 more years before it was drowned in a flash flood. If he's interested, I can talk him through it. It's not hard if you know somebody who can do some minor welding.
 
Do they overheat at all? There's usually a reason for blown head gaskets. Where do the gaskets blow?

If it blows a gasket, change it. Don't get a new engine with an old gasket. If you can do it yourself it'll only cost you about $80 plus the gasket ($30-$300 depending on car/style) to replace, and it'll be new. Just remember to face the head (get a professional to do this!) and consider polishing or decking the block if need be. Use sealant if applicable and get a good (graphite) gasket if possible, not a ****ty "home brand" fibre style gasket that'll blow in a week. If in doubt you can get a copper gasket made, o-ring the block and use a sealant like "Bonding Agent 1207B" etc, but that'll cost a bit more and is pretty extreme...

Good luck.
 
No need to get a custom gasket made - the revised dealer part is fine and will last pretty much forever if properly installed.

Neons don't generally blow the headgasket from overheating. On the left rear side of the head, there is an oil passage that comes very close to the edge of the block, and it tends to fail to the outside, causing a slow oil leak down the back of the block. In fact, they can be driven that way indefinitely as long as you keep an eye on the oil level and make sure it stays out of the coolant.
 

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