Dampers - can anyone explain.

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Trying to completely understand what everything does on a car while tunning and i have pretty much everything figured out but dampers.

So can anyone have a good explanation of what compression and extensions do, Because the gt5 explanation sucks.

If you can try to explain in a way like for example:

increasing rear toe will increase stability when turning but make your car oversteer. ( i believe thats what gt5 says actually )

but if u can do something like that ^ for each of the dampers id really like that because its simple and too the point.

front comp
rear comp
front ext
rear ext
 
Dampers (Extension)
The best effect I've found to use this for, is to balance the car while on the throttle. If a car is rotating too much when on the throttle, set the rear higher than the front,(6/7) if it's not rotating enough, set the front higher than the rear.(7/6)

Dampers (Compression)
Same as above, but works on deceleration/braking. Higher front increases rotation, higher rear decreases rotation.

Extension is for corner exits, Compression for corner entry.

increasing rear toe will increase stability when turning but make your car oversteer. ( i believe thats what gt5 says actually )
No, that's understeer. "Stability" is essentially a form of understeer, anytime you hear someone mention something making a car more stable, it's decreasing rotation in some manner.👍
 
DSUjoeDirte9
Trying to completely understand what everything does on a car while tunning and i have pretty much everything figured out but dampers.

So can anyone have a good explanation of what compression and extensions do, Because the gt5 explanation sucks.

If you can try to explain in a way like for example:

increasing rear toe will increase stability when turning but make your car oversteer. ( i believe thats what gt5 says actually )

but if u can do something like that ^ for each of the dampers id really like that because its simple and too the point.

front comp
rear comp
front ext
rear ext

Dampers are basicly what makes the car absorb its force. For example. If your drag racing and you want to get traction in the back,you would set dampers compression to 10. Its what helps it compress. And you would want dampers extension for the front to be a high number like 7. So the front would extend
 
thank you two, hopefully these 2 comments you made will help me tune cars better to do specifically what i want, because ive been tuning like everything but dampers on my cars and i feel its a huge amount of lap times im losing by not tuning it.

Others can fee free to comment, more information the better. :)
 
I don't believe there's usually a lot in terms of lap times to gain in GT5 from damper adjustments. They'll help in more subtle ways, like keeping you on the track and comfortable. More of a consistency benefit than a speed gain.
 
CSLACR
I don't believe there's usually a lot in terms of lap times to gain in GT5 from damper adjustments. They'll help in more subtle ways, like keeping you on the track and comfortable. More of a consistency benefit than a speed gain.

Your right,but it could help when breaking if you have trouble braking,because it would make it easier.
 
i also feel that if i can use dampers to help control my car then i can do more with my other things.

I use a DS3 so its kinda hard to get as accurate as you want. (Hoping to buy G27 soon) But if i can make my car control better with dampers than i can do others things with say camper and toe to make my car steer, and respond better and same with the left side of the suspention and even the LSD.

Because if i can use dampers to control the car better, i can try to make my car "feel" loser and get better lap times that way.
 
think of the car as a teeter totter and dampers on each end

<crude basic drawing time>

dampers.jpg


from that awesome diagram we can see which damper settings have a relationship to each other as the vehicle experiences accelerating/braking forces against it.

ie. front extension & rear compression are 'related' when accelerating

so, if your car is not rotating enough (understeer) while you exit a corner under throttle you can:

i) increase front extension
and/or
ii) increase rear compression

if your car is not rotating enough (understeer) while you enter a corner you can:

i) decrease front compression
and/or
ii) decrease rear extension
 
Increasing the rear compression does nothing for corner exits for me.
In fact, there is nothing the suspension that will increase rotation for me by increasing(moving right) a rear setting in any circumstance. Be it ride height, spring rate, dampers, arb, camber, rear toe.

Increasing rear compression with no other change will result in less rotation while decelerating for me.
 
think of the car as a teeter totter and dampers on each end

<crude basic drawing time>

dampers.jpg


from that awesome diagram we can see which damper settings have a relationship to each other as the vehicle experiences accelerating/braking forces against it.

ie. front extension & rear compression are 'related' when accelerating

so, if your car is not rotating enough (understeer) while you exit a corner under throttle you can:

i) increase front extension
and/or
ii) increase rear compression

if your car is not rotating enough (understeer) while you enter a corner you can:

i) decrease front compression
and/or
ii) decrease rear extension

lmfao seems legit. Did u steal that drawing from a mechanic shop? seems so real.

But ill try this and see if it helps. Because it makes sense.

Increasing the rear compression does nothing for corner exits for me.
In fact, there is nothing the suspension that will increase rotation for me by increasing(moving right) a rear setting in any circumstance. Be it ride height, spring rate, dampers, arb, camber, rear toe.

Increasing rear compression with no other change will result in less rotation while decelerating for me.

really? Even just messing with the rear toe alone changes steering for me in a positive way. Could be that you driving style keeps your car steering the same way for the most part.

Never heard of that happening before
 
Increasing the rear compression does nothing for corner exits for me.
In fact, there is nothing the suspension that will increase rotation for me by increasing(moving right) a rear setting in any circumstance. Be it ride height, spring rate, dampers, arb, camber, rear toe.

Increasing rear compression with no other change will result in less rotation while decelerating for me.

I can't comment on offline tuning cause I never do it. But online, rear compression can have a big effect on curing corner exit (on throttle) oversteer (reduce rear comp) or understeer (increase) - though front extension seems to have more effect for me in this case. YMMV.
 
I can't comment on offline tuning cause I never do it. But online, rear compression can have a big effect on curing corner exit (on throttle) oversteer (reduce rear comp) or understeer (increase) - though front extension seems to have more effect for me in this case. YMMV.

I don't have online for my ps3 (don't ask) but ive taken my ps3 to friends house and driven online and i didn't notice a difference at all from online and offline driving.

So why do people always say like, oh your offline well i guess that time doesn't mean as much. Because i was online and still receiving same lap times and ect i do offline and the car drove EXACTLY the same.

So whats the difference?

And if it was a PP race then depending on the amount and car i was driving it was faster or slower lap times but thats kinda obvious. Also im not considering when your in a pack full or random noobs who like to ram u and all that BS. Im talking about when you actually have a chance to drive the right speed because your either ahead of the other driver or when the other driver isnt make it too hard on you to drive your line.
 
ive taken my ps3 to friends house and driven online and i didn't notice a difference at all from online and offline driving.

So why do people always say like, oh your offline well i guess that time doesn't mean as much. Because i was online and still receiving same lap times and ect i do offline and the car drove EXACTLY the same.

So whats the difference?
The difference is the same as the last thread. That 99% of the population disagrees with you. Offline and Online are vastly different. If you don't notice them, sobeit. I guess you're the exception to the rule, again.
 
The difference is the same as the last thread. That 99% of the population disagrees with you. Offline and Online are vastly different. If you don't notice them, sobeit. I guess you're the exception to the rule, again.

lol sry i define everything that makes sense. And i did get my hybride to beable to full throttle, so i guess i defined another thing. I guess if you oversteer and spin offline and you oversteer and spin online then there 2 totaly different things. Does that mean if i get on the gas offline it actually mean im breaking online?

Maybe im an alien from mars or something and i just don't know it. Because i seem to be making some of the things people say untrue. -.-

I MUST BE A ALIEN IF I CAN DO IT AND EVERYONE ELSE CANT. :sly: its the only explanation

:)----------:)----------:)----------:)----------:)----------:)----------:)----------:)----------:)


and if 99% of GTPlanet disagrees then some plz fascinate me in the amazing tales of how its so different, because as i said i didn't notice 1. < serious im curious because i didn't notice 1 thing different

-not saying i know everything about online/offline difference as ive done it a whole 1 time.
 
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I don't understand what you want from us? WE think it's different. There are different amount of grip levels. The cars act differently. How much further does it really need to be explained? If you don't notice it, good for you, why are we discussing it then?

Anyone can smash on the gas, if you set the car up slow enough to do so. If you want to hinder your overall speed, so that you can drive as if the throttle were an on/off switch, then by all means, go for it. Your driving effects me in no way at all, so I don't care if you choose to be slower, so that you don't have to be bothered by throttle control. But bragging about improperly setting up your car, to counteract driving in an inefficient way, isn't going to help you look cool.
 
I can't comment on offline tuning cause I never do it. But online, rear compression can have a big effect on curing corner exit (on throttle) oversteer (reduce rear comp) or understeer (increase) - though front extension seems to have more effect for me in this case. YMMV.
Now it sounds like you're saying the opposite. At least I thought you said raising the rear would create oversteer, or I have this meaning backwards.
Honestly sounds like you have ext and comp mixed up. I'm talking about the first set on the menu, extension, which affects exits. Compression, the second set of shocks on the menu, affects braking. At least for me.
For both, a higher front than rear enables rotation,(oversteer) and higher rear than front gives "stability", or decreases rotation.

lol sry i define everything that makes sense. And i did get my hybride to beable to full throttle, so i guess i defined another thing. I guess if you oversteer and spin offline and you oversteer and spin online then there 2 totaly different things. Does that mean if i get on the gas offline it actually mean im breaking online?

Maybe im an alien from mars or something and i just don't know it. Because i seem to be making some of the things people say untrue. -.-

I MUST BE A ALIEN IF I CAN DO IT AND EVERYONE ELSE CANT. :sly: its the only explanation

:)----------:)----------:)----------:)----------:)----------:)----------:)----------:)----------:)


and if 99% of GTPlanet disagrees then some plz fascinate me in the amazing tales of how its so different, because as i said i didn't notice 1. < serious im curious because i didn't notice 1 thing different

-not saying i know everything about online/offline difference as ive done it a whole 1 time.
I like that finishing sentence. More of that, less of the rest.
Online is very different than offline, and to boot, the only people I've ever known to disagree, did not play online "much".
So we've come to know what the phrase "online and offline are exactly the same" means, and what that means is this: You haven't played online much, and/or have driven some of the most understeery cars in the game online. FWD cars are harder to tell the difference because they go from understeer to less-but-still-totally-there-and-lots-of-it understeer.
Try something like a stock Takata NSX '06 offline and then online. You'll know very quickly. ;)
 
I don't understand what you want from us? WE think it's different. There are different amount of grip levels. The cars act differently. How much further does it really need to be explained? If you don't notice it, good for you, why are we discussing it then?

Anyone can smash on the gas, if you set the car up slow enough to do so. If you want to hinder your overall speed, so that you can drive as if the throttle were an on/off switch, then by all means, go for it. Your driving effects me in no way at all, so I don't care if you choose to be slower, so that you don't have to be bothered by throttle control. But bragging about improperly setting up your car, to counteract driving in an inefficient way, isn't going to help you look cool.

Dude whats your problem, you out to get more or something because everytime i make a post or something u bring negativity to it and make me look bad. Different amount of grip levels? Does online have like a Over-realistic grip level higher than possible on the normal GT? because i drive with real and the cars don't act different. If my enzo understeers online its gonna understeer offline.

and in terms of hindering my speed, OMFG we got a badass over here bragging about how he runs half a second faster than me. dude nobody cars, because "ONLINE" thats close enough to draft and pass you anyway.

And for your information im not bragging and i havent bragged once, i bragged once on my last thread and thats because somebody was being a douche.

I like that finishing sentence. More of that, less of the rest.
Online is very different than offline, and to boot, the only people I've ever known to disagree, did not play online "much".
So we've come to know what the phrase "online and offline are exactly the same" means, and what that means is this: You haven't played online much, and/or have driven some of the most understeery cars in the game online. FWD cars are harder to tell the difference because they go from understeer to less-but-still-totally-there-and-lots-of-it understeer.
Try something like a stock Takata NSX '06 offline and then online. You'll know very quickly.

i probably just have to drive more online to tell the difference but when i was online this is what i mostly drove.

-Hybride
-787b
-Rabrig Nsk (not takata but still)

i did mostly le mans races all day because im a fan of lemans. I did a little tuner race around nurburg with a Amuse s2000 but that car isnt very uncontolable in the first place.

I do probably have to drive more to tell the difference but from my few like idk how m any hours (probably like 9) i didn't tell a difference. Ill try again some day see if i can tell.
 
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Now it sounds like you're saying the opposite. At least I thought you said raising the rear would create oversteer, or I have this meaning backwards.
Honestly sounds like you have ext and comp mixed up. I'm talking about the first set on the menu, extension, which affects exits. Compression, the second set of shocks on the menu, affects braking. At least for me.
For both, a higher front than rear enables rotation,(oversteer) and higher rear than front gives "stability", or decreases rotation.

No. What I am saying is front extension AND rear compression affect the rate of weight transfer when accelerating. Conversly, front compression AND rear extension affect the same when braking. I believe you are incorrect, both front and rear extension do not affect exits. Only front extension plays a role on exit and only rear extension plays are role in corner entry.

Think about what happens when you brake & maybe reference that wicked awesome diagram above -- the tendency is for the nose to dive and the rear to lift hence, front comp and rear ext. [ie. the flat line dips on the left and rises on the right]. In order to combat this, you increase front comp and/or rear ext. Vice versa for when you get on the gas -- the nose lifts and the rear squats -- front extension and rear compression.

Thus, to reduce corner exit oversteer, you can reduce rear compression and/or reduce front extension. My theory in tuning is change the end that is giving you grief, so in this case (rear stepping out), I'd reduce rear comp 1st.

If it were corner exit understeer I was trying to fix (fronts losing grip), I'd likely increase front extension before increasing rear compression.

Corner entry understeer, reduce front comp 1st then reduce rear ext if needed.

Corner entry oversteer, increase rear ext 1st, then increase front comp.

Anyway, dampers are just one of the tools. LSD, ride height, springs etc can and should be used in conjunction.

I think what you are saying (correct me if I am wrong) is that a higher front ext than rear ext and the bigger that gap is creates oversteer. This is NOT entirely incorrect because a high front ext creates oversteer on exit and low rear ext creates oversteer on entry. It is not the whole picture however & where you'll get into trouble is fixing cars that exhibit different handling characteristics on entry vs exit using dampers. ie. understeer on entry and oversteer on exit.

edits: sorry for editing, i am just trying to clarify what i am attempting to get across.
 
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No. What I am saying is front extension AND rear compression affect the rate of weight transfer when accelerating. Conversly, front compression AND rear extension affect the same when braking.

Think about what happens when you brake & maybe reference that wicked awesome diagram above -- the tendency is for the nose to dive and the rear to lift hence, front comp and rear ext. Vice versa for when you get on the gas.

Thus, to reduce corner exit oversteer, you can reduce rear compression and/or reduce front extension. My theory in tuning is change the end that is giving you grief, so in this case (rear stepping out), I'd reduce rear comp 1st. If it were corner exit understeer I was trying to fix (fronts losing grip), I'd likely increase front extension before increasing rear compression.

Anyway, dampers are just one of the tools. LSD, ride height, springs etc can and should be used in conjunction.

lmfao i actually really like that diagram above. Its pretty simple and to the point. Im currently tunning to 787b even more than it was before and im definetely seeing some better results outa it.
 
I use shock absorbers also to absorb shock. I want two things from my shock absorbers. I want to maintain tires in contact with the road as much as possible over bumps and I want the suspension to return to a stable state after a bump as immediately as possible.

Shock absorbers mostly just work with the spikes in load in the suspension. The amount a car changes pitch with extended braking or acceleration is more defined by spring stiffness. Shocks will have an effect with radical changes in braking and accelerating and it will have an effect with the initial application of brakes or acceleration. Shocks also have an effect with left/right shifting of weight.

Compression is the more important value with shocks, too low and the suspension may immediately bottom out, too high and the suspension may barely compress and you get airborne and out of control.

Extension controls the suspension as it returns from a compressed state, a low value will return faster. For maintaining maximum contact with the road front:1 and rear:1 would be best. I use slightly higher values so that the car returns to a stable state faster. If the overall shock values were too low the car may continue to oscillate a little after a bump.

I might also tweak the shocks a little to control shifting weight forward or back, but initially, I set them to ride bumps. For example, your car spins when you come off throttle and/or onto brakes: increase rear extension.
 
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I use shock absorbers also to absorb shock. I want two things from my shock absorbers. I want to maintain tires in contact with the road as much as possible over bumps and I want the suspension to return to a stable state after a bump as immediately as possible.

Shock absorbers mostly just work with the spikes in load in the suspension. The amount a car changes pitch with extended braking or acceleration is more defined by spring stiffness. Shocks will have an effect with radical changes in braking and accelerating and it will have an effect with the initial application of brakes or acceleration. Shocks also have an effect with left/right shifting of weight.

Compression is the more important value with shocks, too low and the suspension may immediately bottom out, too high and the suspension may barely compress and you get airborne and out of control.

Extension controls the suspension as it returns from a compressed state, a low value will return faster. For maintaining maximum contact with the road front:1 and rear:1 would be best. I use slightly higher values so that the car returns to a stable state faster. If the overall shock values were too low the car may continue to oscillate a little after a bump.

I might also tweak the shocks a little to control shifting weight forward or back, but initially, I set them to ride bumps. For example, your car spins when you come off throttle and/or onto brakes: increase rear extension.

Ill have to keep this in mind next time i go to tune my cars. I know on some tracks if i hit the candy canes (local nickname) on the sides of the tracks that my tire will completely come off the ground so im gonna take a guess and say my compression is too high on some of my cars.

Thanks
 
No. What I am saying is front extension AND rear compression affect the rate of weight transfer when accelerating. Conversly, front compression AND rear extension affect the same when braking. I believe you are incorrect, both front and rear extension do not affect exits. Only front extension plays a role on exit and only rear extension plays are role in corner entry.

Think about what happens when you brake & maybe reference that wicked awesome diagram above -- the tendency is for the nose to dive and the rear to lift hence, front comp and rear ext. [ie. the flat line dips on the left and rises on the right]. In order to combat this, you increase front comp and/or rear ext. Vice versa for when you get on the gas -- the nose lifts and the rear squats -- front extension and rear compression.

Thus, to reduce corner exit oversteer, you can reduce rear compression and/or reduce front extension. My theory in tuning is change the end that is giving you grief, so in this case (rear stepping out), I'd reduce rear comp 1st.

If it were corner exit understeer I was trying to fix (fronts losing grip), I'd likely increase front extension before increasing rear compression.

Corner entry understeer, reduce front comp 1st then reduce rear ext if needed.

Corner entry oversteer, increase rear ext 1st, then increase front comp.

Anyway, dampers are just one of the tools. LSD, ride height, springs etc can and should be used in conjunction.

I think what you are saying (correct me if I am wrong) is that a higher front ext than rear ext and the bigger that gap is creates oversteer. This is NOT entirely incorrect because a high front ext creates oversteer on exit and low rear ext creates oversteer on entry. It is not the whole picture however & where you'll get into trouble is fixing cars that exhibit different handling characteristics on entry vs exit using dampers. ie. understeer on entry and oversteer on exit.

edits: sorry for editing, i am just trying to clarify what i am attempting to get across.
I'll try it, but you should know unless I say "real-world", I mean GT5.
I understand what you're saying and how it applies in real life, but for that to matter in any game, those same physics have to be in the game. I'm not saying they aren't, but if they are they are at least well hidden.

What I do in GT5 is apparently confusing, as I just had someone else tell me they had my shocks mixed up as well.

First off, allow me to explain that "neutral" does not mean the car will actually have neutral handling in that situation, if the core tune is over-steer or under-steer, a 5/5 setting (or 7/7, etc) would still over or under steer. I always set the balance of the car first to avoid false feedback/settings changes that work around a problem instead of fixing it.

Extension - 5/5 = "neutral" 7front/5rear = More rotation anytime you have weight transfered rearwards. 5front/7rear would cause your car to push when you're on the throttle.(sending weight rearwards)
Compression - 5/5 = "Neutral" 7/5 would be oversteer on deceleration (trickier than ext, because it applies to both lift-throttle and braking) 5/7 would be understeer under deceleration.

The other thing I've found is that cars are always set equally. If a car is at 6/6 4/4 on the shocks, but only has a problem on exit or entry, it means you have 3 problems. Shocks Ext, Comp, and base tune. Every car I've tested so far requires exactly the same offset to be truly "neutral" on entry, mid, and exit. For example 8/6 3/5, or 6/8 5/3, if one needs to be 2 clicks higher, so does the other. If it doesn't feel that way, no matter how much it seems impossible at the time(and it does sometimes) something is wrong.
And of course you should always run lower compression than extension.(like 7/6ext 3/4comp) Always. The menu says otherwise, but it just works better. That's another thing I "knew" before I started tuning in GT5 and was convinced otherwise for a time period.
 
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So are you saying you have higher EXT values than COMP values lol.. Yea I know the menu says to always use higher ext than comp but I have some tunes that have higher comp than ext also.. Its a game I dont think it goes by real life stuff also.. According to the in game menue a setting of ext (7 front and 7 rear) with comp (4 front and 4 rear is close to perffect) It "says" ext value should be twice that of the comp value but I got lots of tunes where the dampers are way off that and handle way better.. But in "real life" ext is always set to a higher number than comp because race cars use stiff springs and you need a high ext number to slow the rebound down..
 
So are you saying you have higher EXT values than COMP values lol.. Yea I know the menu says to always use higher ext than comp but I have some tunes that have higher comp than ext also.. Its a game I dont think it goes by real life stuff also..

No. Well , at least iirc , the menu suggests a compression 2-4x the extension. Though , again , iirc , it doesn't even have the courtesy of using the terms "extension" and "compression" , but instead calls them "bound" and "rebound". But maybe I have bound and rebound backwards , extension and compression are descriptive , which helps my feeble mind.

Anyway I usually set my extension higher , at least to a small degree.
 
So are you saying you have higher EXT values than COMP values lol.. Yea I know the menu says to always use higher ext than comp but I have some tunes that have higher comp than ext also.. Its a game I dont think it goes by real life stuff also.. According to the in game menue a setting of ext (7 front and 7 rear) with comp (4 front and 4 rear is close to perffect) It "says" ext value should be twice that of the comp value but I got lots of tunes where the dampers are way off that and handle way better.. But in "real life" ext is always set to a higher number than comp because race cars use stiff springs and you need a high ext number to slow the rebound down..

PD did not do a good job at explaining the tuning options in gt5. Some of the don't make sense and some of them like "Dampers" just tell you that it works along with and like spring rate. (or something like that).

Some things it can explain but others they need to do a better job or remake the explanation.

Totaly my opinion. But personally i find that tuners of GT planet explain it so much better.
 
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....
THIS is what dampers are and do.

Dampers work to slow the cars suspension under load.
If you had no dampes and went over a bump the car would go back and forth many times.

A damper is just a tube with oil in it and a small opening in the tube to allow the oil to flow into another tube.

The smaller the hole, the slower the oil can move.
Thus, whenever you brake, the front end tries to compress but it's speed of compression is being CONTROLLED by the damper, if you want the front end to compress faster then you make the hole larger, so that the oil can flow faster.

Rebound works in the same way with a hole and oil that flows through it, only this time it's when the suspension is extending.

If you increase the rebound, then the suspension comes up quicker.

It's all about putting the weight where you want it, if you are understeering coming off of a corner then you can decrease the front rebound so that the front end can't come up as quickly and thus it keeps weight over the front wheels.
 
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