Default suspension glitch

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wheelman1313

wheelman1313

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wheelman1313
I've noticed that every car I buy now has its suspension defaulted to the TS030's base line camber and toe settings: F/R 1.5/3.5 camber and F/R -0.50/1.00 toe. Not a huge issue, but a killer for cars like the Gazoo Racing GT86, which the camber and toe cannot be tuned on. Anyone else notice this?
 
wheelman1313
I've noticed that every car I buy now has its suspension defaulted to the TS030's base line camber and toe settings: F/R 1.5/3.5 camber and F/R -0.50/1.00 toe. Not a huge issue, but a killer for cars like the Gazoo Racing GT86, which the camber and toe cannot be tuned on. Anyone else notice this?
Click to expand...

That's a trick question, right? :rolleyes:
 
The best advice I can give to straighten this stuff out is either start from zero camber and toe and go from there. Every car is different, so in reality, there isn't an across the board "standard". They're basically forcing people into tuning the cars, which is unfortunate for some people. I tune all of mine and don't bother with the fixed suspension as I am picky. But, certainly understand the frustration. Definitely start with 0s. Same goes for the diffs, but rather than 5, I'd start from ten and only go up. 10% is a very, very weak lock. If anything under 20% is too much, your alignment is compromised and needs to be reworked with the diff in conjunction. Of course, there are many ways to piece everything together. I just feel these to be the easiest base points when it comes to finding grip, after the cars is balanced out between weight and/or suspension.
 
Camber angle front 0.5 rear 1.5 and rear toe angel 0.60 for all road cars by default.
Until now GT6 physics was simcade after 1.09 update with this default settings is arcade.
Congratulations for all Shuffle racers with these default settings Shuffle racing will become horrible arcade adventure,if PD decides to return back Shuffle racing.
 
I don't get it?
I thought camber was fixed?

I can tell it actually does something but still on the cars i've tried, setting at 0 is still fastest!
 
Are you guys claiming 0/0 is still fastest reworking your entire setup and starting from scratch? Camber works for me and I track an e36 and a 125...so I know what camber feels like...anywhere from 0 to -4.5 degrees. I can carry far more speed through turns with the camber update.

A lot of people are jumping ton the conclusion that camber is still not working. It's not perfect, obviously, but it most certainly works. 0 camber up front feels like absolute crap and always has. It doesn't feel linear, it doesn't turn in well and it you don't get nearly as much stability in all sorts of situations.

I've been using the 97T as a test mule, because I had a very good 0/0 camber setup. I was doing high 1:45s around spa and 1:08s at RBR, and about 1:00s around special stage rt5. All very different tracks. I was doing low 1:16s at Monaco with the 0/0 tune, but haven't tested with my current.

I'm now doing 1:44s at spa, 1:07s at RBR and :58/59s at special stage rt5. 1:44 with ABS1 at spa is pretty quick for zero camber. 1:06s are right there at the RBR and we'll see about SS rt5. If I take my camber tuned 97T and go back to 0/0 it feels like a joke. It is obvious, but to prove a point, the same setup meant for camber on tires/wheels set to 0/0 felt like crap...so if you're adding camber to a previous setup...it's not going to do well.

I didn't become a better driver overnight and if zero camber is quickest, idk how I've picked up over a second everywhere I go by running camber in the front and rear. If 0 camber is quickest, camber on any setup should be slower, assuming both are balanced/controllable setups.

I was no slouch on zero camber, but I was able to do a total revamp on the 97T setup within a short period since 1.09 came out and I'm smoking my old times. I went from running 16xx on the rear wing to 18xx. I gained that much grip up front to add a consierable amount of rear wing and was able to close the diff more as well in all aspects.

So...camber does work, despite claims that it does not. There is no way that I am running over -.5 up front and blowing my old times away. Everything works in unison now. Before it was just - balance of the car, 0 the camber and tweak the alignment until it's over/understeer characteristics are at your please. I am increasing things like diff lock by 1% and getting obvious visual and force feedback that I can no longer boot it through an S where I could beforehand, etc. It's going to take people a long time to setup the cars fully to their liking now. Adding 3 clicks of rear wing from where I was made it understeer hard, where before hand, I had a little oversteer where I didn't want it. Or I would add .01 toe in up front and would be eating gravel on exits. No traction by the end of long sweepers.

IMO, a lot of people are giving up on camber and setups right now, because they can't get the whole car together with 1.09 physics, then blame it on the camber not "working" or it is "broken". It is not and I am not some sort of exception. I think that the problem is PD hasn't told anyone how the camber works and how it needs to be approached in a setup at this point. Because it is clear that most do not.

It's not the "setup a car in a half hour and jet" anymore like the older games and their physics models. And it shouldn't. It takes a lot of time to set a car up in any other sim.

If zero camber was fastest, I would be getting destroyed by the guys I race with. A few still use 0, but they are becoming fewer and fewer and going to camber.
 
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332i
Are you guys claiming 0/0 is still fastest reworking your entire setup and starting from scratch? Camber works for me and I track an e36 and a 125...so I know what camber feels like...anywhere from 0 to -4.5 degrees. I can carry far more speed through turns with the camber update.

A lot of people are jumping ton the conclusion that camber is still not working. It's not perfect, obviously, but it most certainly works. 0 camber up front feels like absolute crap and always has. It doesn't feel linear, it doesn't turn in well and it you don't get nearly as much stability in all sorts of situations.

I've been using the 97T as a test mule, because I had a very good 0/0 camber setup. I was doing high 1:45s around spa and 1:08s at RBR, and about 1:00s around special stage rt5. All very different tracks. I was doing low 1:16s at Monaco with the 0/0 tune, but haven't tested with my current.

I'm now doing 1:44s at spa, 1:07s at RBR and :58/59s at special stage rt5. 1:44 with ABS1 at spa is pretty quick for zero camber. 1:06s are right there at the RBR and we'll see about SS rt5. If I take my camber tuned 97T and go back to 0/0 it feels like a joke. It is obvious, but to prove a point, the same setup meant for camber on tires/wheels set to 0/0 felt like crap...so if you're adding camber to a previous setup...it's not going to do well.

I didn't become a better driver overnight and if zero camber is quickest, idk how I've picked up over a second everywhere I go by running camber in the front and rear. If 0 camber is quickest, camber on any setup should be slower, assuming both are balanced/controllable setups.

I was no slouch on zero camber, but I was able to do a total revamp on the 97T setup within a short period since 1.09 came out and I'm smoking my old times. I went from running 16xx on the rear wing to 18xx. I gained that much grip up front to add a consierable amount of rear wing and was able to close the diff more as well in all aspects.

So...camber does work, despite claims that it does not. There is no way that I am running over -.5 up front and blowing my old times away. Everything works in unison now. Before it was just - balance of the car, 0 the camber and tweak the alignment until it's over/understeer characteristics are at your please. I am increasing things like diff lock by 1% and getting obvious visual and force feedback that I can no longer boot it through an S where I could beforehand, etc. It's going to take people a long time to setup the cars fully to their liking now. Adding 3 clicks of rear wing from where I was made it understeer hard, where before hand, I had a little oversteer where I didn't want it. Or I would add .01 toe in up front and would be eating gravel on exits. No traction by the end of long sweepers.

IMO, a lot of people are giving up on camber and setups right now, because they can't get the whole car together with 1.09 physics, then blame it on the camber not "working" or it is "broken". It is not and I am not some sort of exception. I think that the problem is PD hasn't told anyone how the camber works and how it needs to be approached in a setup at this point. Because it is clear that most do not.
Click to expand...
What numbers are you running for camber? Do you generally run more - camber on better tires or softer suspension? If camber has changed from the previous games, is there a sweet spot you start out with or do you start at 0 and work your way up, or right on the slider rather.
 
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The grippier the tire, less camber I run. Racing tires on a car with downforce like gt3/2/LMP/gts/dtm, etc. I don't use anymore than -0.5 degrees. Between -0.3 to -0.5, depending on the track. Possibly -0.2, if the setup can cope with it. Road cars - no more than -0.7. As you trickle down from cars like LMPs to road cars, the chassis' and suspension get softer and softer. They all have a ceiling. I haven't tested street tires yet, because of the groups and cars I race with online, but I've done no less than 90-100 hours of testing on racing tires. Easily. I have a slight head injury, so I am home a lot haha. Probably more than 100 hours sadly of testing since 1.09. A good 5+ hours a day. There are a few exceptions, but generally, I run medium to softish suspension settings with some camber. If you're not using camber, you're throwing away a tool that increases stability and encourages the use off the diff (which people are not used to - see all of the tuners' setups from pre-1.08.) Super loose diffs and they're still not catching on...

With a higher rate locking diff on a GT2 car yesterday, I increased traction in the rear under throttle through turns up until I hit -0.5 in the rear. After that, it began to drop off. I did not notice much loss in acceleration in a straight line, as all of my tunes are based around high lock settings that you would find in real life. Which always results in better traction. Braking lock rates and initial torque are a bit more complicated to get into ITT.

Either way, all of that promotes the use of camber and vis versa. Kind of like IRL ;) The softer the suspension and chassis, the more you'll benefit from negative camber.and a little more can be use. Obviously at a point, you surpass effectiveness and it detracts from performance.
 
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