Drag tuning basics

  • Thread starter Michael xd
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Guys... Come on...

Focus on my stupidly slow Veyron! Ya got a noob with no clue needin help here in the 'Drag Tuning Basics' thread!

I was thinking about the camber thing on the Veyron, and wondering would it make sense to run 7.0 front 3.0 rear camber seeing as only 70% of the power is to the rear?

Yea, some people, I know...

For the Veyron, or any car in that matter, you don't want camber on rear wheels. As for front, I have never experimented with it but as mafia said you probably want as little as possible or none altogether.
 
That's what I'm using as of now 0/0, but I really cant get anything more out of it so I'm tryin about everything I can think of.. =\
 
There's other areas to look at. ;) I'm going to call a Veyron "Ron" from now on. :cool:

The 3 suspension areas Ron needs work done to are his height, his spring rate and his dampers.
 
Curse you drag racers and your secretive nature lol
It'd be much easier if you'd just be like "Hey noob try this _______, you will go fast."
Instant gratification is what I'm looking for here, not effort!

Is there any technique you use for setting a transmission? Like for all of my track cars I set it on each track so I am redlining right before the breaking point on the longest straight. Is there something like that I should be going for?
 
Curse you drag racers and your secretive nature lol
It'd be much easier if you'd just be like "Hey noob try this _______, you will go fast."
Instant gratification is what I'm looking for here, not effort!

Is there any technique you use for setting a transmission? Like for all of my track cars I set it on each track so I am redlining right before the breaking point on the longest straight. Is there something like that I should be going for?

lol you need effort, cmon :)

Yup, for now just take the top speed and set it so your redlining wherever the end of the track is. After that you can start tuning each gear individually.
 
Why still no help for me?!!?!?!?!:grumpy::grumpy::grumpy::grumpy::grumpy::grumpy:

Edit: Just so you know, this is what I'm needing help with-
Ok, I'm in need of some help as well. I asked mafs this yesterday. But in my Veyron, when I hit 230mph in 6th, the front of the car lifts (Very visibly), the revs literally spike up. In the process of this, the speed climb seems to be even more dramatic. Now, I think mafs said this was called the 'boost multiplier' or something like that and it's to do with the gearbox. I don't want to know if it can be extended, but rather to learn how it works.
 
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270? Damn it all!
Well Ron is running with 1187Hp currently so with the full break in amount it should go up right?

And I am hitting 266 right as I exit the tunnel
 
Having camber on the back can be beneficial in a way. I have camber on a few of my drag cars.
Well, the only benecifial way i could think of is that you want your tires to brake loose a little. If you have to long gear, the car may bogg down, but if you let the tires slip a little, then it would help.

ps. i could be wrong :)
 
Can you narrow it down this much:
Should I be looking for that extra bit to bump me to 270 in the transmission or suspension?
 
Because camber gives you more wheel spin, if you need to make your first gear longer than normal you wont bog because it allows for more spin. make sense? lol

More? Wasn't it less wheelspin? cuz as far as I can work out, more camber to an extent gives more grip, but will slow you down as speed builds. I think.
 
Because camber gives you more wheel spin, if you need to make your first gear longer than normal you wont bog because it allows for more spin. make sense? lol

Hmm... gotta try it for myself. But if that works for you, the more power to ya :)
 
Why still no help for me?!!?!?!?!:grumpy::grumpy::grumpy::grumpy::grumpy::grumpy:

Edit: Just so you know, this is what I'm needing help with-
Ok, I'm in need of some help as well. I asked mafs this yesterday. But in my Veyron, when I hit 230mph in 6th, the front of the car lifts (Very visibly), the revs literally spike up. In the process of this, the speed climb seems to be even more dramatic. Now, I think mafs said this was called the 'boost multiplier' or something like that and it's to do with the gearbox. I don't want to know if it can be extended, but rather to learn how it works.

I'm pretty sure that it's almost the same as we used in GT4 for our (wheelie) Topspeed runs.

Oh, another thing: Found out that what Mafia calls multiplier (gear ratio), is in truth a dividend for the boost.
Nah! Sorry, it's the shift lag.

Can you narrow it down this much:
Should I be looking for that extra bit to bump me to 270 in the transmission or suspension?
Suspension
 
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I'm pretty sure that it's almost the same as we used in GT4 for our (wheelie) Topspeed runs.

Oh, another thing: Me and Dr (another one) found out that what Mafia calls multiplier (gear ratio), is in truth a dividend for the boost.

Yea, but I wasn't there in GT4, so I has no clue. And ok, so the gear ratios are actually…percentages(?) of the boost? Or am I just being a bit weird again?
 
I'm pretty sure that it's almost the same as we used in GT4 for our (wheelie) Topspeed runs.

Oh, another thing: Me and Dr (another one) found out that what Mafia calls multiplier (gear ratio), is in truth a dividend for the boost.



Suspension

Yea, but I wasn't there in GT4, so I has no clue. And ok, so the gear ratios are actually…percentages(?) of the boost? Or am I just being a bit weird again?

You're using the gear ratio as a multiplier. It gets a bigger boost in 6th rather than 7th because of this.
 
You're using the gear ratio as a multiplier. It gets a bigger boost in 6th rather than 7th because of this.

Ok, please elaborate (but keep it as children friendly as you can), as I'm curious to how it's done. It was the multiplier that allowed me to edge ahead of a rival Veyron just now…
 
The secret to be fast on 1/4 is to have good launch and use as many gears as possible, and redline at the shadows. The more gears you use, the faster acceleration you get. Also if you are using auto, you get perfect shifts.

my viper ACR has 1011 horsepower, and i launch in 2nd gear. No one has beaten me in vipers with the same hp.
 
my viper ACR has 1011 horsepower, and i launch in 2nd gear. No one has beaten me in vipers with the same hp.

Well vipers can get 1031 hp so I don't know what rooms you've been racing in :lol:

Saying you have the best drag car won't make many friends mate ;)
 
swara96
my viper ACR has 1011 horsepower, and i launch in 2nd gear. No one has beaten me in vipers with the same hp.

Lol. Missing a little HP are we? :)
DaLightninRacer
Well vipers can get 1031 hp so I don't know what rooms you've been racing in :lol:

Saying you have the best drag car won't make many friends mate ;)

+1
 
Ok so I'm just starting to get into serious drag tuning after being pounded into the ground by one of the Redline guys and I've read through every post in this thread trying to grasp it all and I have a few questions:

1. Does the extreme front camber on an FR car only matter for your top speed runs at SSR7 or should I be doing it for the 1/4 as well?

And this one is a biggie:

2. I need a somewhat in depth explanation of how transmission tuning works. I'm not askin for detailed tunes because I know those are guarded like the coca cola formula, but I'd like a break down of what each aspect does and what to aim for. I'm a little confused by the difference in setting the top speed and the final drive. And also what exactly the individual ratios do and if I should be setting those first or after the top speed or final drive, etc...

Any help would be greatly appreciated, especially by you pros ;)
 
I have done som testing and tuning for the past month, and i have come up with basic drag settings that works quite well, and are commonly used. From sources like gtplanet, different forums etc, i have come up with this:

*Suspension*
RWD
Height: F (all way down), R (all way up)
Spring Rate: F (all way down), R (all way down)
Extension: F (1), R (10)
Compression: F (10), R (1)
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default)
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0)

Note: On some cars you get better launch if you make front spring rate as stiff as possible. Test and experiment..

AWD (use with 50/50 torque split)
Height: F (20), R (all way up)
Spring Rate: F (50% of max rate), R (75% of max rate)
Extension: F (10), R (1)
Compression: F (1), R (10)
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default)
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0)

AWD (use with 40/60 or similar)
Height: F (20), R (all way up)
Spring Rate: F (stiff as possible), R (75% of max rate)
Extension: F (10), R (1)
Compression: F (1), R (10)
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default)
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0)

Note: On my awd cars that i use 40/60 torque split, i run max spring rate in the front, it helps with the takeof. Experiment as you wish...

FWD
Height: F (0), R (all way up)
Spring Rate: F (50%), R (stiff as possible)
Extension: F (10), R (1)
Compression: F (1), R (10)
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default)
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0)

*Drivetrain*
LSD can be set to 60-60-5, it works quite well on both rwd and awd cars. Fwd cars i don not know. Torque Split for awd cars can be set to 50/50 or 40/60 for better launch. On lower hp cars, i set it like 20/80, because i want a little bit wheelspin so i dont bogg down when launching, and i dont want to make 1st gear shorter either :).

*Transmission*
This is complex according to me, but my basic rule is that i set 1st gear so when i launch, and if the wheels are spinning, i never redline. If the revlimiter jumps up and down while launching, then your 1st gear is to short, that is my basic rule. On awd cars, i set the 1st gear so when i launch, i accelerate from 0 to what ever with just a little bit wheelspin, hardly noticed though. You got to have a good balance, short gear enough to get good acceleration, and not bogg down when launching, but long gear enough to not spin your tires to much. Note, on lower hp awd cars, you can either make 1st gear shorter so you dont bogg down, or you could do the tourque split trick, explained above. You could also ask fellow tuners which speed you should hit in 1st gear for that specific car, so you get a hint on how long/short the gear should be.

Last gear, usually 6th, i make it long/short enough, so when i exit the ssr7 tunnel im at redline, or im on a suitable top speed :). This can be hard to determine though. The basic rule is, that the shorter gears, the faster acceleration. It isnt uncommon that the top tuners exit the tunnel in a lower speed (due to shorter gears), but they come there alot faster. That is what is important. Ask around for your specific car, and you get a hint on a suitable top speed you should hit.

The gears between, that is 2nd to 5th gear, you could adjust them, so when you are changing gears, you dont get any delay in acceleration. For example, if the 2nd gear is to short compared to 3rd gear, you will get an interrupt in acceleration when changing gears. Soulution? Well, make 2nd gear a little bit longer, or make 3rd gear a little bit shorter. As told before, tune your gears, so when you are changing gears you get equal rpm drops. This is a good rule, all though, i make my 2nd gear very close to 1st gear, because i want good acceleration and jump of the line in the beggining.

I also try to use all gears, my theory is that the more gears you use, the faster acceleration you get. Even on indy 1/4 mile, i try to use as many gears as possible. Some times, you need to do the transmission trick, so you could use all gears. This is how i do, to be able to change gears more flexible:

1. Reset transmission
2. Top speed all way to the left (eg. 220 km/h)
3. Final gear all way to the right (5.000)
4. Top speed one klick to right (230)
5. Top speed one klick to left again (220)
6. Adjust final gear

Now you can have a verry close geared gearbox, still beeing able to have a long first gear.

*Body/Chassi*
For high power rwd cars, you could use ballast position 50, and 0 weight. That helps you gain a little bit of traction. On awd cars, i dont use ballast, and on fwd cars, i dont know.

On my drag cars i use 0 aerodynamics what so ever, that is no rear wing, no body kit, diffusers etc. I know the rear wing decreases the top speed, but i have been told lately that front lips, rear diffusers etc. affects the acceleration as well. So no fancy bodykits for me :)


Okay, this is my basic drag tuning advice, feel free to comment and discuss.

Great help to new drag tuner like myself.
Question is, What do you/he mean by "STIFF?" - the spring rate.
Thanks a billion!
 
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