Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

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@Podger Hi, do you think you can made the LEDs of the TM wheel 488 challenge work with consoles ? It is working on PC but disable on consoles :-(
Last evening I've saw the led working when connected on the Drivehub during initialisation sequence
Do you think something could be done ?
It might be possible? since the SF1000 wheel is supported by GT7 and has rpm leds, maybe by emulating as having that wheel, but it might be too much of a hassle.
 
I set up my DH last night, connecting it to my G Pro wheel and Moza HGP shifter. Success!

However, I didn't think the FFB in GT7 seemed to be as strong as when I've rested the full 11nm capability in ACC console.

It felt not a lot stronger - if at all - than the rotten 7nm cap that Polyphony give us in GT7..

I only had a very short time to teat it, so apologies for a numpty question. Anyone else experienced this? Yes, FFB set to 11 on wheel, 10 in game.
 
I set up my DH last night, connecting it to my G Pro wheel and Moza HGP shifter. Success!

However, I didn't think the FFB in GT7 seemed to be as strong as when I've rested the full 11nm capability in ACC console.

It felt not a lot stronger - if at all - than the rotten 7nm cap that Polyphony give us in GT7..

I only had a very short time to teat it, so apologies for a numpty question. Anyone else experienced this? Yes, FFB set to 11 on wheel, 10 in game.
Did you enable the boost? @Podger posted directions in this thread on March 21st.
 
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@Podger Hi, do you think you can made the LEDs of the TM wheel 488 challenge work with consoles ? It is working on PC but disable on consoles :-(
Last evening I've saw the led working when connected on the Drivehub during initialisation sequence
Do you think something could be done ?
My understanding is that on PS4, leds are not sent to wheel over usb, the same way they are for fanatec or Logitech. The sf1000 I think it uses wifi to subscribe to telemetry sent from the game over UDP.
 
Nothing scientific as of yet, but should the drivehub give a complete transparent feeling with no boost mating with the G pro and GT7?
Anyone else feel a lot more yanking coming from the wheel?
 
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Nothing scientific as of yet, but should the drivehub give a complete transparent feeling with no boost mating with the G pro and GT7?
Anyone else feel a lot more yanking coming from the weel?
I'm getting much more FFB, without hints of an artificial boost. Similar to what I experience in ACC on my PS5, without the DH connected.
 
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I re-uploaded 2.1.2-beta.15 it was showing as 2.1.2-beta.14 even after the update.

added a special feature for Gpro users on GT7.. to boost past 7Nm cap
1. press PS or equivalent to go to dash
2. press and hold together the 2 buttons in the center of the 2 new knobs
1. right most RPM led on Drivehub with glow and after 2 or 3 seconds the next led will glow also
3. now use left knob to adjust value
1. 0 leds is 100%
2 1 leds is 110%
and so on til 5
3 repeat step 2 to quit special feature
4. TF ffb will be boosted by the % set

this is a temporary and will need to be done any time you restart DriveHub
the value are capped at max and min so can't go out of range
i recommend to quit to dash as the buttons used are active in the game but in the dash
 
Nothing scientific as of yet, but should the drivehub give a complete transparent feeling with no boost mating with the G pro and GT7?
Anyone else feel a lot more yanking coming from the wheel?
What wheel base are you using? I'm using the PC version on my PS5 and I do not have any issues like you are describing. Also, what firmware version are you using on the drivehub?
 
What wheel base are you using? I'm using the PC version on my PS5 and I do not have any issues like you are describing. Also, what firmware version are you using on the drivehub?
Im using the PS5/PC base in PS5 mode hooked up to the controller port in drivehub. Both the G-hub and Drivehub are the latest versions, drivehub running the latest beta.

Are yours giving a transparent feeling as if drivehub is not there in the middle? If your wheel can connect directly to the ps5?
 
Im using the PS5/PC base in PS5 mode hooked up to the controller port in drivehub. Both the G-hub and Drivehub are the latest versions, drivehub running the latest beta.

Are yours giving a transparent feeling as if drivehub is not there in the middle? If your wheel can connect directly to the ps5?
I have the PC version, so I can't plug in directly to compare. I can compare it to AMS2 and ACC on PC and say that the wheel feels very similar to me.

If your issue is happening with a high downforce car like a group c car, I find that setting the FFB filter to 1 helps reduce a lot of the oscillation on certain tracks.


If you think it's an issue with the drivehub, I would recommend that you first try unplugging any unnecessary accessories like shifters and handbrakes and see if that makes a change. Other thing you can try is using a different beta firmware. I'm pretty sure that beta 7 was when our wheel first got full support so I don't recommend going further back then that. I believe beta 13 is when boost was first introduced.... Pretty sure it was announced publicly with beta 14 but could be wrong.
 
I think I'd be more interested in the Drive Hub if they pony up the time, effort and money to making it a licensed PS product. Or at least make a version that is. Having try and find a wired controller that is sold out everywhere is kinda ridiculous, imo. Not to mention trying to mount a controller and DH to a rig.


Jerome
 
My understanding is that on PS4, leds are not sent to wheel over usb, the same way they are for fanatec or Logitech. The sf1000 I think it uses wifi to subscribe to telemetry sent from the game over UDP.
Not on this wheel, I'm sure it is with usb on PC when you go on the TM control panel you can test the led and it's working, and last night just after using DH on xbox and turn the console off, the wheel has restart and the leds have revs, it was the first time so this give me hope :-)

This is is wheel
1713973832076.png
 
I think I'd be more interested in the Drive Hub if they pony up the time, effort and money to making it a licensed PS product. Or at least make a version that is. Having try and find a wired controller that is sold out everywhere is kinda ridiculous, imo. Not to mention trying to mount a controller and DH to a rig.


Jerome
Ok. It’s different for everyone. You’re not required to buy it, but it’s an option if you have a problem you would like to solve. Drivehub to me is kind of like a secret club product. lol We are skewing the system and meeting our needs. Grey area. Works great for me! Seems to be fine without the time, effort, and money on licensing. But I’m using g pro ps5 wheel on ps5, so I don’t need the controller. I use it for the boost and shifters. Works like a dream. Literal plug and play. What is your alternative solution to your problem then? Drivehub for many is the only solution, and it works. And it’s so small you can mount it anywhere with a little piece of hook and loop tape. I did right on the wheel mounting plate. I was very interested in Drivehub, and has met all of my expectations and then some! My setup time from unboxing to driving with quality shifter was less than 5 minutes.
 
Ok. It’s different for everyone. You’re not required to buy it, but it’s an option if you have a problem you would like to solve. Drivehub to me is kind of like a secret club product. lol We are skewing the system and meeting our needs. Grey area. Works great for me! Seems to be fine without the time, effort, and money on licensing. But I’m using g pro ps5 wheel on ps5, so I don’t need the controller. I use it for the boost and shifters. Works like a dream. Literal plug and play. What is your alternative solution to your problem then? Drivehub for many is the only solution, and it works. And it’s so small you can mount it anywhere with a little piece of hook and loop tape. I did right on the wheel mounting plate. I was very interested in Drivehub, and has met all of my expectations and then some! My setup time from unboxing to driving with quality shifter was less than 5 minutes.
If you have a motion sim, its a different story to try and keep the product and some rando controller that you need to access firmly in place. I'd love to get those Ricmotech hydraulic pedals, but I don't have a lot of options when it comes to securing the controller (assuming I could find a comaptible one). If they had a version with the 'Sony chip', I'd surely buy one as I could secure that to my rig easy peasy like you said. And no knock to anyone who has one, I'm sure if its as advertised, its a really great product.


Jerome
 
If you have a motion sim, its a different story to try and keep the product and some rando controller that you need to access firmly in place. I'd love to get those Ricmotech hydraulic pedals, but I don't have a lot of options when it comes to securing the controller (assuming I could find a comaptible one). If they had a version with the 'Sony chip', I'd surely buy one as I could secure that to my rig easy peasy like you said. And no knock to anyone who has one, I'm sure if its as advertised, its a really great product.


Jerome
ahh I see. Cool! It’s unlikely Sony would want this, it doesn’t benefit them. You should def pull the trigger and get the Ricmotech and Drivehub! Go on Etsy and find printed mount for universal controller, and printed mount for Drivehub specific. Amazon get some 1/8 adhesive backed foam. Layer some strips and pieces until the controller fits snug. One will pop up somewhere I’m sure. Def get that setup, you will be happy you did!!!!
 
If you have a motion sim, its a different story to try and keep the product and some rando controller that you need to access firmly in place. I'd love to get those Ricmotech hydraulic pedals, but I don't have a lot of options when it comes to securing the controller (assuming I could find a comaptible one). If they had a version with the 'Sony chip', I'd surely buy one as I could secure that to my rig easy peasy like you said. And no knock to anyone who has one, I'm sure if its as advertised, its a really great product.


Jerome
You don't need any access to the controller. The hori is just there to make the unsupported equipment become supported, that's the entire point of the drivehub... unofficial support for unsupported equipment (added bonus for GT7 is that the drivehub has a boost mode to overcome the FFB cap put there by PD).

I have my hori controller tucked away on the side of my wheel so I don't have to see it and makes everything look cleaner. You can put the controller and the drivehub wherever you want since you really don't need to do anything with it once it's setup (only exceptions are being able to see it when setting up the boost mode, pressing the reset button if needed and to press the button to load firmware).


If you don't want to use the hori controller, you can use this dongle:

 
You don't need any access to the controller. The hori is just there to make the unsupported equipment become supported, that's the entire point of the drivehub... unofficial support for unsupported equipment (added bonus for GT7 is that the drivehub has a boost mode to overcome the FFB cap put there by PD).

I have my hori controller tucked away on the side of my wheel so I don't have to see it and makes everything look cleaner. You can put the controller and the drivehub wherever you want since you really don't need to do anything with it once it's setup (only exceptions are being able to see it when setting up the boost mode, pressing the reset button if needed and to press the button to load firmware).


If you don't want to use the hori controller, you can use this dongle:

I see, that does change the equation a bit, so I could just have both items just sitting on my tv stand, interesting.


Jerome
 
I know what the issue is, it’s a hangover from g29 and g923 support coz games don’t support them with an analog handbrake, so it ignored the analog part and press X instead, it used to be O tho, but in any case I’ll look into it.
Thanks for fixing the handbrake issue. Not sure when you fixed it because I just got around to testing one of the newer betas since I last posted, and the funny business in the menus is now gone. :cheers:

As always, been totally happy with this product (and support) since it has saved me lots of money over the years – got a deal on the PC version of the wheel this time (plus the PS version was still backordered).
 
Thanks for fixing the handbrake issue. Not sure when you fixed it because I just got around to testing one of the newer betas since I last posted, and the funny business in the menus is now gone. :cheers:

As always, been totally happy with this product (and support) since it has saved me lots of money over the years – got a deal on the PC version of the wheel this time (plus the PS version was still backordered).
The trick if you’re getting 2 is get the Xbox and ps versions, put the Xbox rim on the ps version and hey presto you got an all rounder.. sell the other 2 bits as a PC version…
 
The trick if you’re getting 2 is get the Xbox and ps versions, put the Xbox rim on the ps version and hey presto you got an all rounder.. sell the other 2 bits as a PC version…
Haha awesome idea but then people wouldn't buy the DriveHub. JK it's still useful to those of us mixing and matching gear like PC people can. Plus I kinda like the more "Pro" look of the unbranded and monochrome buttons of the PC version.

Hopefully new rims or adapters for real rims come out soon for the G Pro DD11 though. I really wanted to go Fanatec for that Podium Rally button module and Sparco R383...
 
i dont quite understand step 1 & 2 because when i press and hold the 2 buttons on drivehub, the wheel turn off and green lights start blinking on drivehub? can you please help me with that😃 thank you!

EDIT: I found out whicj buttons i need to press, actually rotary buttons on the wheel itself😃 I manage to making it work now!
I revisited this post today after having some confusion (like you) and fumbling my way to the boost feature without knowing which step in particular was the most important.

What I DID find frustrating, was that the boost feature was not there when I next used the wheel, which had powered off at night. Now it makes sense (am I right?) that the boost feature needs to be enabled each time the wheel is powered up using this (rather simple now that I get it) procedure.

Unfortunately I'm away from my wheel for a few days, so can't confirm this.
 
I revisited this post today after having some confusion (like you) and fumbling my way to the boost feature without knowing which step in particular was the most important.

What I DID find frustrating, was that the boost feature was not there when I next used the wheel, which had powered off at night. Now it makes sense (am I right?) that the boost feature needs to be enabled each time the wheel is powered up using this (rather simple now that I get it) procedure.

Unfortunately I'm away from my wheel for a few days, so can't confirm this.
Yes, you are correct that it needs to be enabled each time you turn on the PS or wake it from sleep. You will need to re-enable the boost mode any time the wheel is turned on or is restarted.
 
@Podger I'm sorry to bother you but I continue to think about the key map for G29 on Xbox with Drive Hub.

View attachment 1338753
G29 and G920 have the same layout, they differ only for the bottom buttons and the red wheel.

Could you please consider to map the on wheel buttons exactly as for G920?

For example plus/minus buttons (if usable) where more adapt to be throttle/brake alternatives for menu as you intended originally for R2/L2 mapping.

I didn't think it was a choice but a limitation of the wheel itself.

Thank you.

For all other users: what do you think about it?

@Podger I’m sorry to bother you on this argument but recently I started to play ACC on Xbox and the use of the “share” button to change the balance during the race it is impossible to use.

Please could you consider to remap the G29 keys exactly like on the G920? The use of brake and throttle as button are not so much useful.

Thank you.
 
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I installed today the 2.1.2-beta.28 firmware (I had previously installed the 2.1.1 stable) and noticed an annoying problem in Forza Motorsport with my DriveHub + G29 setup on the Xbox Series X: every time I turn the steering wheel to the left it starts to lock, shake annoyingly and stiffen up.
I've done two races under these conditions and it was very hard to keep the car on the track.
As a positive thing I noticed that the problem of the steering wheel being 'locked' (in the entry position and with the opposite force) entering the pits has been resolved, but the problem indicated before makes the steering wheel unusable.
I am reinstalling version 2.1.1.

PS: I add @Podger to hope he can read and solve.
 
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