Driving economically.

[MistaX]

There's been tons of discussion about economic cars, and rated MPG, and E85, and high gas prices, etc. But not a single thread on how to drive to save gas. Yes there's that speed limit thread, but that's crusing in overdrive, not my question.


My question would be: How the hell do I drive to get the best possible gas mileage?

As most of you know, I have a Camaro Z28, which is not going to be the most economic car to begin with, but for some odd reason I can watch the gas gauge go down while I'm driving. So I figured I must be doing something wrong.

Now the car redlines at ~6000RPM, and idles at ~1100RPM. I feel noting that is important because of that all cars are different, and shifting at 4000RPM in my car like you'd do in your Civic is not exactly the most feasable idea.


The way I usually drive goes something like this: I'll shift at 1500RPM to 2000RPM, except out of 1st*.

The owners manual claims (it lists speeds to shift at) I would get the best gas mileage if I shift into 6th at 45MPH. But that CANNOT be correct, because 45 in 6th is IDLE. The car lugs, alot. Throw a hill at it and it's totally confused. So I'm forced to go WOT to keep the car in 6th at 45MPH. Which doesn't seem very economical.

So please, can someone straighten me out?


*Under certain conditions the "Skip Shift" light will come on, which is some stupid thing all F-Bodies have to beat the Gas Guzzler tax. What it does is forces the driver to shift into 4th from 1st, between 20-30MPH. The car lugs for 2 or 3 seconds every time I do it, since I'm usually trying to go to 2nd when it's on. Sometimes (or rather, alot) I gun it to get the light off and end up shifting at 3K to 2nd.

 

[Sage]

I just shift as low as I can comfortably get away with (read: without lugging). That means about 2000 rpm in my Mazda 3. I don’t think my car would be able to handle something like 1st to 4th; the only skipping I ever do is from 3rd to 5th.

I also cruise to stoplights a lot, turn off my engine if I know I’m going to be idling more than a minute, and rarely use my A/C except at freeway speeds (where the drag from opened windows causes a hit in fuel economy itself).

 

[Raghavan]

But turning off and restarting your engine will wear out your starter motor and battery in the long run. Is that worth the extra gas savings?

 

[Rogue Ssv]

... it is nowadays.
Idling for 1minute wastes a lot.

 

[Sage]

But turning off and restarting your engine will wear out your starter motor and battery in the long run. Is that worth the extra gas savings?

I don’t do it every day. Maybe once every couple weeks, when I get stuck in rush-hour traffic in downtown Valencia.

 

[Jedi2016]

Sounds like you take it easier on your 3 than I do mine, Sage.. hehe.

I usually shift at about 3K, depending on the gear. 1st, I'll usually get it up to about 4K before shifting, because of how far 2nd is.. if I shift too soon, it bogs because 2nd will take it below 1K.. hehe.

I occasionally skip from 3rd to 5th, but my most common skip is from 2nd to 4th. 4th is my "city" gear, since most roads around here have 40mph limits. For example, turning right onto a busy road, I'll take 1st up to about 4500, 2nd up to about 4K or so. That puts me at about 40mph, so I skip into 4th. There's a few longer roads where people typically drive faster than 40mph, so I'll throw it into 5th there.

The big place I've noticed an improvement in mileage is on the highway. Before the gas crunch, I'd routinely keep the car at around 80-85mph. I'd get, on average, about 28mpg (when I fill up, I calculate mileage based on how much gas I put in and how far I got on that much gas). Nowadays, I'll drop my highway speed to about 65-70mph. Even with the A/C on ('cause it's frikkin' hot), I can jump my mileage up to about 31-32mpg just by driving slower. Might not sound like much, but it's nice to see that I can get 340 miles out of a tank of gas as opposed to only 300.

I wind up filling up about every three weeks. Which is definitely nice, since there's folks at work who drive further, and have less economical vehicles, and they have to fill up every few days.

 

[the Interceptor]

I like to drive economically, so here's what do to:

- shift as low as possible without lugging, I guess you already do that. Experts say by the way that it actually saves more fuel to accelerate fairly quick (don't speed, just don't creep) to the speed you're allowed to drive, rather than trying to get there slowly. So, don't accelerate too slow, but don't floor it.

- very important: drive foresighted! If you see that cars in front of you are slowing down, even if you have some distance to them, lift your foot off the accelerator. Modern engines use no fuel at all as long as you stay in gear. I don't know if your does as well, but I suppose so. In traffic, try to drive as fluent as possible, and avoid stopping if you can. Of course you shouldn't interfere with other drivers too much, but also try to average that nevous "stop and go"-guy in front of you. You'll use way less fuel if you just keep the car rolling instead.

- at highway speeds, don't go too fast. Over a certain speed, fuel consumption will increase immensely. Rather drive calmly and constantly at a speed that's a tad lower than you're used to. Avoid acceleration and brake action as much as possible.

EDIT: Here's some more:

- avoid weight and wind resistance! Throw out everything you don't need, cause the lighter your car is, the less fuel it will consume. And make it as slippery as possible, meaning not to open the roof or the windows if you don't need to. Especially at higher speeds, wind resistance is an important factor in fuel economy.

- put a tad more air into the tires. It will reduce their road resistance and therefor increase fuel economy. You may go up to the pressure that's recommended for maximum load. And if you can, go for some narrower ones. Even half an inch can save you a lot of fuel (lower wind and road resistance).

- use modern oils! Cheap oil may save you some money when you buy it, but modern, more expensive oils make your engine run better and save more fuel, especially on short trips with a cold engine.

- do periodical maintenance! Blocked up air filters and a disguised engine management will decrease fuel economy, cause the engine will be busy with keeping itself running, using more fuel.

- start your travel immediately after you've started the engine. Don't let it get warm, cause when idling for a few mins, it'll use a lot of fuel that's just gone.

- save electric power! Don't use gimmicks as electric heaters, lights and stuff as long as you don't need them. The current you use is being made out of fuel indirectly, so every electron you use up means less fuel.

Hope this helps!

Regards
the Interceptor

 

[Sage]

Sounds like you take it easier on your 3 than I do mine, Sage.. hehe.

The extra torque might help (mine’s the 2.3 liter engine). Granted, I don’t always do that – I’ll occasionally go to 6000 if I feel like having a little fun – but usually I do 3000 in 1st and 2000 everywhere else. By short-shifting so often, I like to think I’m “banking” gas money so that I can have a few fun redline blasts once in a while. Kinda like eating healthy all day so you can have a big dessert later.

I’ve also slowed down my freeway speeds quite a bit. I used to always drive at 75–80 mph, but now I also drive between 65 and 70, and consequently I’ve noticed that I save almost $5 a week. 👍 (I do a lot of driving: one-way trip to school is nearly 20 miles.)

[edit]: Ditto what the Interceptor said about driving foresighted (that’s how I learned to drive, so it’s become so second-nature to me that I forget a lot of people don’t actually do that). It always amazes me how badly people time stoplights – I can usually guestimate when a red light will turn green, so I let off the accelerator just enough that I can roll through when the light turns green, while other people will slam the accelerator, then slam on the brakes right before the light, then have to slam on the accelerator again to get going. Ridiculous.

 

[STLbarcelona5]

You guys might want to check this out:

http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=20&article_id=3424

 

[ExigeEvan]

Clarkson did an economy challenge in an Audi a couple of season ago, I'l check the vid thread in abit to see if I can dig it up.

Apart from the low revs and shifting you've just gotta get rid of al unnecessary weight, keep your windows up, the air-con off and you tyre pressure at it's max boundary, generally.

 

[a6m5]

My fuel saving techniques(though a lot of them have already been mentioned):

1) Coast a lot, coast to stops.

2) Carry momentums to uphills.

3) Limit the use of electricity, especially A/C.

4) Roll up windows for highway driving.

5) Do not carry extra weight. Lose the basketballs and golf clubs in your trunk(I preach it, but I don't practice this one ).

6) This one vary's depending on the car, but I like to shift between 2-3 grand.

7) Plan your trip, so you don't make extra ones.

8) Tailgate semi-trucks to use the "draft" technique. This usually bumps up my mpg easily by another 5 or so.

Good luck.








Just kidding on the number 8.

 

[Jay]

Lots of good suggestions, not much I can add.

Now the car redlines at ~6000RPM, and idles at ~1100RPM.

Wow, standard LT1's idle at 1100? That wouldn't help economy.

8) Tailgate semi-trucks to use the "draft" technique. This usually bumps up my mpg easily by another 5 or so.



Just kidding on the number 8.

Maybe a joke but that does work well.

 

[MustangSVT]

In my jetta '98, I shift at about 2500rpm from 1st to 2nd, and at about 2300 to 2500rpm in the other gears. If I shifted any lower, the car would be lugging.

 

[TB]

shift as low as possible without lugging, I guess you already do that. Experts say by the way that it actually saves more fuel to accelerate fairly quick (don't speed, just don't creep) to the speed you're allowed to drive, rather than trying to get there slowly. So, don't accelerate too slow, but don't floor it.

I actually just did this a few tanks ago in my car. It's a '99 Gran Prix GT. Lets see how this sounds:

"Normally" the car shifts (remember it's a auto) at 3000. I decided for an entire tank to NEVER go over 2500. After 2 weeks of driving like Miss Daisy's chauffer, the results came in: I increased a whole 1 mpg. these results are minimal because I, apparently like Sage, learned to drive by keeping my eyes open, watching lights, "guesstimating", etc.

For my car, you get roughly the same mileage by being at 3000rpm for, say, 8 seconds before grabbing another gear, versus 2500rpm for 12 seconds. The lower peak rpm is offset by the duration of time that you are at said rpm. Basically, for me it all averages out the same.

Why is it always so hard to explain things like that at a keyboard?

I used to own a '97 Neon 5 speed. That bad girl could go into 5th at 37mph and still have enough juice to accelerate when needed. There were more than a few times I skipped 1st and then jumped from 2nd to 5th. She never once complained.

 

[Sage]

Yeah, I think it really boils down to two things:

1) Driving style. “Defensive driving” will usually not only keep you more safe, but also give you better fuel economy. Drive with both your eyes and your ears, and be able to predict traffic patterns so that you can squeeze in the most cruising and rolling (which also saves wear on your brakes and clutch).

2) Chain-linking: don’t drive more miles than you have to. Try as hard as possible to make your stops form a continuous loop instead of going back-and-forth over and over again.

 

[Keef]

Since I don't care about driving "economocally", I'll comment on Sage's mention of defensive driving. THink about the word "defense". You have something, and you are prtecting it from harm, capture, interruption, whatever. You are defending something. When I have possesion of a lane, I defend it. When someone who's deen annoying me for the past five miles finally speeds up to get in front of me, I match them, therefore relinquishing them to a more rearward position within the lane. I practiced defensive driving.
I've heard about this thing driving schools call "defensive driving", but the name makes zero sense. I explained the nature of "defensive", and I know that is not what driving instructors teach you to do. I feel like making a petition as motivation for driving schools to change the name of the said technique.
I'd also like it if someone could explain it the driving school way, so I can more clearly see how the name makes zero sense compared to the actual techniques.

EDIT: Sage, you only "occasionally" take her to 6000!? Come on, that's not even redline. And if it is you should have gotten the 2.0. Red's at 65, limiter's at 7, and I take it all the way there in 1st and 2nd. It stays there too long in 3rd and above though, so I would shift at the red.

But my buddy doesn't really drive it that hard all the time. Maybe 50% of the time.

 

[GT4_Rule]

a6m5 - I read on another thread that tailgating a semi is dangerous and it doesn't really help that much.

 

[Jay]

a6m5 - I read on another thread that tailgating a semi is dangerous and it doesn't really help that much.

It is dangerous, it does help (especially if you are in a vehicle with bad aerodynamics) but its not worth it.

 

[GT4_Rule]

The crash with the semi in front of you will offset any mpg gains.

 

[Jay]

The crash with the semi in front of you will offset any mpg gains.

A crash is less likely if your paying attention and its on a highway, especially when your in a modern car as you can stop much faster than the truck especially if it has a load. (you don't have too sit too close)

What I am concerned more about is the big fine that police would give me if they see me drafting.

 

[TB]

keef, you would be describing offensive driving. If someone has been pissing you off for the last 5 miles, slow down and let them go. After 15 years of driving, I've come to realize that it's not worth it to drive like that. You are in control of a 2 ton killing machine. Treat it with some respect. And I'd really rather not hear "But I'm always in control when I drive" as I've seen accidents happen moments after that statement was spoken.

Also, what is the point of taking a car up to redline? Because you can? On occasion (ie once in a while when merging onto the interstate, for example) yes, pop the clutch and have some fun. But driving like that all of the time is just plain foolish.

Enough ranting, and in light of the barrage of off-topicness GTP has been facing tonight, I feel compelled to add something of value to my post.

Replace old air filters, fuel filters (if you can get to it easily) etc., as these are some of the easiest ways to increase you mileage.

 

[GT4_Rule]

After 15 years of drifing

I didn't know that you drifted for 15 years!

@ Viper: no one should be tailgating a semi, it's totally dangerous. I'm not sure whether if Vancouver police will give tickets but I'm sure they will.

 

[Jay]

@ Viper: no one should be tailgating a semi, it's totally dangerous.

No need to tell me or a6m5,

I never said anyone should be tail gating a semi, infact I said it was dangerous and not worth it.

 

[GT4_Rule]

Nono I was just replying to your last post. I wasn't trying to tell you anything. Sorry if you misunderstood me.

 

[TB]

I didn't know that you drifted for 15 years!

Is that better? Man, you make one little spelling mistake and...

 

[a6m5]

Don't worry, GT4. I was just kidding about drafting behind a semi(read the fine print). Many truck drivers around my area has some serious anger management issues. If they catch me tailgating their trucks, they'll take me out. I've been in plenty of roadrage(their rage, not mine) showdown with them in my day.

 

[Sage]

Keef: As TB noted, you’re describing offensive driving. I was referring to the definition of defensive driving, which means doing everything in your power to avoid an accident, particularly in paying attention to traffic patterns (which consequently saves fuel).

As for thrashing my car: why would I do that? It wastes fuel and it shortens the life of the engine and the clutch. I’m not in a position where I can afford to waste money like that – plus, I plan on keeping my car for at least ten years.

 

[Gil]

To add to the "defensive" vs "offensive" driving arguement. I have noted many of the same people driving like idiots on my way to work in the morning.
As I leave at about the same time every morning and follow the same route, I see a lot of the same cars.
The lady in the Lexus Sedan that does a lot of lane changing and "jack-rabbiting" doesn't get to the I-670 exchange any faster than I do by staying in the same lane and anticipating the actions of the drivers around me so that I don't have to slow way down too often.
It also seems that she drives a lot further zig-zagging across the lanes.
Plus, she annoys the hell out of the other drivers, and some of them cut her progress off intentionally.

A few things to remember:
1. What's your hurry? You're only on your way to work. It's not like you want to be there in the first place.

2. If you can afford a car, you can afford a clock. Leave early enough that you can drive more conservatively. Besides if you have a "mechanical", you'll have enough time to deal with it, and still be on time.

3. Going 80 in a 65 Zone will save you, at most, 5 minutes if your commute is 30 minutes or less. (See #2) It will cost you 10 minutes at least while the Highway patrol has you pulled over. That doesn't include the huge fines you will end up paying, and the increase in your insurance premium.

4. You are more likely to cause an accident or be in an accident if you're driving much faster than the flow of traffic, and weaving in and out of lanes.

5. If you are an ass to people on the road, those people will be jerks to others. So, you are perpetuating "road rage." By the same token, if you let someone into the traffic flow, or make the left turn in front of you, etc. Those people will go down the road and do nice things to/for other drivers.
Which thing would you rather cause?

As far as fuel econonmy, getting to your desired speed quickly without going WOT, and then maintaining that speed by watching the road ahead and anticipating things that are going to slow you down should net you better fuel economy.
You might also consider an in-car programmer that can "re-map" the car's brain to work in economy mode.
and can be very quickly re-flashed to power mode for track days.
Also, if your car is idling at 1100 RPM there is a problem with it. All of my cars idle below 1000 RPM, if the tachs are to be believed. Even cold, the Camry idles at about 750, the Honda about the same, and the Excursion idles just a tick over 500, if the tach is to be trusted.

 

[Raghavan]

I've got you all beat: I ride my bike! 👍

 

[a6m5]

There you go. 👍 I rode my bikes everywhere when I was a kid. I have very strong lower body strength, strong legs and crazy foot-speed for playing sports. I really think it was developed while riding bike, when I was growing up. I haven't ridden since the senior year in high school, but if my $400 mountain bike(almost 15 years ago) didn't get stolen back then, I'd still be riding, I think.