DS3 Help

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c0485sanchez

c0485sanchez

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Slowleen00
Hey everyone, just a simple but potentially complicated question here. I've been trying a lot of different tunes from multiple tuners, particularly at Nurb Nord, and I've noticed that almost all the tunes are to be used with a wheel. I'm not against getting a wheel or against spending the money for the wheel, I just feel that for the hour or two I play every few days it wouldn't be worth the time to learn how to drive again. Now here's my question. What diference(s) would have to be made in a tune to make it more DS3 friendly? I use the L1/L2 for brake and acceleration, because it obviously has a little longer of a throw as compared to the X and Square. I know with the wheel and pedals you have way more control than the controller, but I'm hoping not to resort to having to buy one. Any help would be much appreciated.
 
c0485sanchez
Hey everyone, just a simple but potentially complicated question here. I've been trying a lot of different tunes from multiple tuners, particularly at Nurb Nord, and I've noticed that almost all the tunes are to be used with a wheel. I'm not against getting a wheel or against spending the money for the wheel, I just feel that for the hour or two I play every few days it wouldn't be worth the time to learn how to drive again. Now here's my question. What diference(s) would have to be made in a tune to make it more DS3 friendly? I use the L1/L2 for brake and acceleration, because it obviously has a little longer of a throw as compared to the X and Square. I know with the wheel and pedals you have way more control than the controller, but I'm hoping not to resort to having to buy one. Any help would be much appreciated.
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It doesn't take that much effort to learn how to drive on a wheel. It's drifting on a wheel that takes a large chunk of time to adjust to. If you have the means of getting a wheel; I strongly recommend that you do it.


OT: I tune on a wheel, however when giving a tune that felt great for me to someone on a DS3, they often complain of understeer midcorner and being a bit reckless at corner exit. So.. possibly increase the negative toe and camber at the front, lower the rear spring rate maybe? it's hard for me to say in a blanket way as each car is different.. hmm.. doesn't help that I haven't been on the DS3 in a very, very long time..

Really though I think you just need to turn in sooner, if anything maybe lower the acceleration sensitivity on the LSD so its more forgiving since you're using the shoulder buttons (I imagine you meant R2 and L2 not L1 and L2) rather than a progressive pedal.

But again, look into a wheel. It's so much more rewarding than the DS3 even if you're by no means a 'hardcore driver' as it were.
 
For DS3 tunes I can say I tune with a DS3. When using a wheel tune there is always going to be a little wierd and not quite to the description. Also, I use standard controls (X, Square for gas, brake)
 
Yes, I meant R2/L2. I'll definitely try the toe and camber adjustments. On some of the cars, I have the differential settings are at 5 and 5, and the rear ends still tend to break loose on exit. I've played with gearing to try to take away some of the torque, but it doesn't make a big difference, of any. I already assumed it'd be just practice practice practice, just seeing if anyone had the secret go fast tip for using the DS3 lol.

Again, I'm not opposed to the wheel, just not too sure if it'll be worth the amount of time I spend on the game. And if i got a wheel I'd have to get a cockpit and so on and so forth, and that can add up to almost not worth the money for me. I had a g27 when I first bought the game years ago, but shortly after I stopped playing, didn't have time.
 
The ds3 is going to be Inherently slower than a wheel. No matter how good you are on DS3 your times can be improved on a wheel.
 
A lot of the oversteer on corner exit comes not so much from the tune itself or the short travel on the DS3 as from the non-linear way the throttle is read from the DS3, meaning there is a lot more stick/trigger travel from 0-50% than there is from 50-100%. Unfortunately this means that since while exiting corners you tend to be varying between 60-90% throttle, you'll need to find the exact control needed to get that from only a couple millimeters of travel or else wait later to get on the gas. I've found this to be consistently my biggest issue when trying to drive with the DS3. The DS3's steering differences seem to provide about as much advantage as disadvantage.

If you pay attention to the telemetry on the HUD you'll see that the brake reacts in a much smoother way than the throttle does. The effect seems far less pronounced with a wheel if it is even there at all.

Some people find it to be less of a problem using the stick, but it seemed just as bad to me so I've stayed with the triggers on DS3 but I mostly only drive with a wheel. If I had only DS3 I'd have experimented more.

I generally find I get a lot more oversteer overall when using a wheel, but not from the throttle.

The main tuning-related solutions would probably be:
1) Try lots of different tunes until you find one that suits you.
2) Ask tuners which control methods they use.
3) Learn what adjustments you can make as a general rule to make the rear more stable.

Mastering throttle control will still be of great help in any case. Also, ABS on/off makes a major difference in the balance of a car even after you let go of the brake with off creating a lot more oversteer much later than you might think. Most tunes are made assuming ABS on 1.
 
Morgoth_666
A lot of the oversteer on corner exit comes not so much from the tune itself or the short travel on the DS3 as from the non-linear way the throttle is read from the DS3, meaning there is a lot more stick/trigger travel from 0-50% than there is from 50-100%. Unfortunately this means that since while exiting corners you tend to be varying between 60-90% throttle, you'll need to find the exact control needed to get that from only a couple millimeters of travel or else wait later to get on the gas. I've found this to be consistently my biggest issue when trying to drive with the DS3. The DS3's steering differences seem to provide about as much advantage as disadvantage.

If you pay attention to the telemetry on the HUD you'll see that the brake reacts in a much smoother way than the throttle does. The effect seems far less pronounced with a wheel if it is even there at all.

Some people find it to be less of a problem using the stick, but it seemed just as bad to me so I've stayed with the triggers on DS3 but I mostly only drive with a wheel. If I had only DS3 I'd have experimented more.

I generally find I get a lot more oversteer overall when using a wheel, but not from the throttle.

The main tuning-related solutions would probably be:
1) Try lots of different tunes until you find one that suits you.
2) Ask tuners which control methods they use.
3) Learn what adjustments you can make as a general rule to make the rear more stable.

Mastering throttle control will still be of great help in any case. Also, ABS on/off makes a major difference in the balance of a car even after you let go of the brake with off creating a lot more oversteer much later than you might think. Most tunes are made assuming ABS on 1.
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I have notice the difference between travel vs. actual throttle/brake percentage. You're 100% correct, braking is a ton smoother than acceleration. And as stated before, I was hoping someone had a simple answer, but I knew it wouldn't be that way. I think my plan is to keep pushing the DS3 until it goes through a wall lol, kidding of course. I'm going to try multiple tunes per vehicle I want to run, one at a time, find the best one that suits my driving style, and go from there. I'd just like to be able to go into a room and be somewhat competitive, not get beat by 30+ seconds at times at Nurb. My driving isn't bad, I'm very patient and clean, I hate getting into people's way if I know I'm slower. I don't want to be that guy anymore lol.

Thanks for the advise everyone. I guess maybe I'll look into wheels and cockpit setups. Maybe see what the best entry level setup is out there.
 
Morgorth666 has given you the most precise story on the DS3. His advice and experience is exactly how I see it with the DS3 and I'm a long time DS3 user who is painfully trying to move to a wheel now.

For me there is no one magic ingredient or trick in tuning for the DS3, it will very much depend on the car and the track but generally I tend to go softer on things like LSD (lower values) and suspension. Camber and toe don't seem to help or hinder. But as Morgorth666 suggested, ask the tuner if you're not having any luck with a particular tune.

I still use the stick on dirt events mainly because I'm leveraging that punch of acceleration you get but never use sticks on hard surface. The issue with non linearity is, I believe, slightly worse on the stick than with the L2/R2 triggers.

Definitely check out wheels, in the long run you'll be a much better driver with one. Wish I had made the move a long time ago as now I have over a decade of DS3 bad habits to try and kick :(
 

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