Duke Racing Celica GT-Four Time Attack Racecar

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Good progress. Have you tried the start bump method to get the crank pulley bolt off? I do this on all the 3S engines I've done cam belts on.

I would leave the heater in for defogging, it still rains in Australia so it's probably needed. It's far harder to find something else to fit when the factory heater works fine. But that's just me.
 
Fair call on the demisting, but I've found previously when driving it in the rain that the heater never did anything without the air con, in fact heat makes it worse. I don't have air con and figured I'll just keep doing what I have been doing which is either don't drive in the rain or crack a window. Only really plan on driving it to track days or cruises so it's not a huge deal, will still have the fan and can coat it in fogx
 
That's a fair point if it never worked and you have no A/C. Keep all the ducting though, I had to make custom ducting for my brothers KP61 when we made the tunnel bigger to fit the massive SR20DE gearbox in it. Not a very good setup but it still does the windscreen.

A/C is the best for clearing the window, it seems like it shouldn't being cold but it just does.

I hope you successfully manage to drill the holes for the GEN3 sump, looks hard while in the car. Is it just for holding the windage tray in?
 
That's a fair point if it never worked and you have no A/C. Keep all the ducting though, I had to make custom ducting for my brothers KP61 when we made the tunnel bigger to fit the massive SR20DE gearbox in it. Not a very good setup but it still does the windscreen.

A/C is the best for clearing the window, it seems like it shouldn't being cold but it just does.

I hope you successfully manage to drill the holes for the GEN3 sump, looks hard while in the car. Is it just for holding the windage tray in?
Yeah all that stuff will stay in.

Yep, gen 2 windage tray is this small thing with only 2 holes, gen 3 is much larger with a large baffle as well to help avoid oil starvation at higher lateral g's, and attaches using 6 bolts. Not only this though, around the perimeter and on the rear main seal housing there are additional holes that need drilling for different mounting locations. Most are the same as Gen 2 though.

Need to buy longer bolts though as the alloy sump is much thicker than the gen 2 and the old bolts aren't long enough.
 
Some more small progress while I wait for my parts to arrive (a lot of them are ex Japan). I bought myself a compressor and used a gasket removing pad on my block surface to get it all ready for the new head gasket. Still need to measure the deck height before I order the Cometic MLS head gasket, I'll borrow my friends dual gauge one night soon.

Checked both new head and block for flatness though with a straight edge and feeler gauges, all good.

So I was able to remove my harmonic balancer finally and then got to work removing the oil pump and water pump. Opened the water pump and modified it to disable the mechanic pump by cutting off the blades.

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As you can see I left the flat part of the blade attached to the collar. The reason I cut them like this is because I wanted to ensure it stayed as balanced as possible and by cutting off the part of the blade where it turns upward it meant I had a perfect reference point on each blade to cut whereas if I went further to remove those other parts it would be hard to get them all the same.

It also made it easer to clean up the cuts as it's not too close to the seal. I couldn't simply remove the collar completely off the shaft as it is also holding the mechanical seal in place.

I used little cut off discs for my dremel then used grinding stones and finally a sandpaper disc underneath the blade to ensure all the rough edges were gone and there were no fine offcuts that would come loose through the cooling system.

I didn't replace the pump itself as it was a new pump only a couple of thousand kms old, so the seal and bearing will still be ok. I also reused the metal gasket as it still looked brand new, flushed it out well and closed it back up and now I just need to get a new oring before it goes back on the block.

Next up another little modification to the coolant hard lines. This little guy is the turbo hard line, the inlet was ok but the outlet was welded straight to a larger pipe that formed part of the return to the radiator. That is disappearing so I needed to modify that pipe to allow to be plumbed to a new port in the new neck that is being made later on.

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Luckily where it was welded on it already had a bit of a flare in the pipe so I managed to cut it off leaving the flare in place in order for a hose clamp to seal properly. Just needs a coat of paint to cover up where I ground away the old larger pipe and bracket that held it.

Other than that I've just been cleaning up the surfaces of the gen 3 sump parts ready for new sealant, I still need to give them a good clean out though, and also scraped off all the old gasket material from the block from the oil pump so it's looking all nice and clean and ready for the new pump

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There is something really satisfying about having all the surfaces prepared and cleaned ready for assembly. Makes it feel like a brand new engine going together and knowing all the seals are new etc means no need to worry about leaks.

Still need to drill the holes in the block but I'll get to that soon once the oil pump arrives. Want to fit that first so that the sump is sitting exactly right before I mark the holes.

Garage is looking a bit messy now, tried to keep it as organised as possible, have the bolts for different components separated in labelled bags which should help come reassembly time...

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That's not even the half of it, the larger parts are all down the side of the car and I have a couple of tubs on the go with the other things like intercooler etc that go on last.
 
Last one for the weekend I promise..

Removed the old brake pads that I ran for the last track day and put in new Project Mu pads all round.

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I'll bleed through some fresh Castrol SRF brake fluid once the car is ready to go.

Amp and related wiring is now gone, I'll just drive the speakers with the head unit, not that I use the stereo anyway.

Going to start working on the ducting seen as how I have to wait for the parts.
 
Did a job today that I really wasn't looking forward to. For the windage tray I had to drill some additional holes in the block from under the car in these locations:
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So I used a nice new sharp drill bit, marked it with tape for the right depth and then drilled them all out, drilling through a little guide that I placed flat on the block surface to give me an idea of where to hold the drill to make it as straight to the block as possible. Then made a lead in to each hole with a larger drill bit and tapped them out with a bottom tap. Used rags to cover up the crank and rods.

Came out well I think. I was a bit nervous drilling in to my block!
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The gen 3 sump bolts up to the block using mostly the same bolt locations as the gen 2 sump, however it has 4 extra ones and two that are larger. Two of them are in the rear main seal housing which will be impossible to do with the engine in place.

I'm thinking I'll just bolt the sump up to the block using the Gen 2 mounting points. I think it will be secure enough, in fact the new sump even bolts to the bellhousing unlike the gen 2 so it's got a lot of extra support anyway. And I'll be using good sealant.
 
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I love it when parts arrive :D

Now that I have the new oil pump, I just have to swap the pulley and stuff over to it, then fit it. After that I can fit the sump, so decided I'd better get it ready.

The sump I got my hands on was from a 3SGE (sans turbo) so the port for the turbo oil return wasn't drilled out, the flange is merely cast and then it's left. So busted out the drill and die grinder and opened the hole up, then I had to tap the threads in to the casting for the bolts, and finally I had to wrap a file in some fine sandpaper and prepare the mating surface so it's smooth enough.

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The little adapter that bolts on to it is coming from Japan, it still hasn't arrived unfortunately but that's all good.

After doing that I needed to give the parts a good wash to get all the filings and old stains out so I filled up the laundry sink, pulled apart the oil pressure regulator and washed everything in soapy water.

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Now it's really to assemble. I don't know when I'll get time to though as I have a busy weekend ahead but theres no rush. I can also fit the head now that I have the gasket, I need to go and get some ARP lube for the head studs and some sealant for the sump.

After the sump goes on there is the black oil pan part that goes right at the bottom. I need to drill a hole in it and weld on a 1/8NPT female fitting which is for the oil temp sensor. I just want to fit the sump first so I can dummy it up and see where I'd like the sensor to make running wires to it tidier.

Next purchase is the thermostatic valve, braided lines and the oil cooler. Getting there.
 
I love getting new parts from Toyota.

That sump looks so nice after you cleaned it up. I really like the look of the GEN3 alloy sump.
 
I love getting new parts from Toyota.

That sump looks so nice after you cleaned it up. I really like the look of the GEN3 alloy sump.
Indeed, it's a massive improvement over the Gen 2 item. Much better baffling, filter much easier to get at and it's no longer sitting right beside the turbo dump pipe. My old one had a gap of like 5mm to the dump pipe, I can't help but think that was basically an oil heater lol.

I'll still have my sandwich plate in that location but it will be sitting way further down as there is no factory oil cooler, so the lines will be a good distance from the pipe. I'm thinking I might put some of that heat proof sleeving on that section of hose anyway.

Bonus too is that is seems I have better clearance for my exhaust, too. My old one contacted the flange but when I did a dummy fit with the exhaust in roughly the right place it had a decent gap.
 
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Cylinder head torqued down with Arp head studs on top of the Cometic MLS gasket. Little bit of progress.

Also re fitted that aluminium oil adapter there on the front of the block, just waiting on the greddy thermostatic sandwich plate and blanking cover to go on top then the hoses run from that to the cooler. Its on its way from Japan now - looks like this:
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That's going to be one clean and tidy engine bay when you're done with it! Any idea what sort of numbers it'll be making?
 
Thanks, well it previously made 157kW at the wheels (just over 200 horsepower) and this new head and cams are no different so with a bit of a raise of boost pressure I'm guessing maybe a tad more. So not a huge amount but the goal is reliability, to ensure it stays making that power at the track.
 
What's the reason for using a Cometic gasket over Toyota OEM?

Good progress, always nice to start reassembling the motor and getting things back on track.
 
Cometic is a Multi Layered Steel gasket. It has a number of benefits, it's a lot stronger and can withstand more power and higher boost pressures, and you can order it in different thicknesses. I used a dial gauge on my piston and then ordered the correct gasket to get the ideal clearance of 40 thou, which is a little thinner than a stock gasket so compression will raise slightly.
 
Don't forget the o rings and gaskets on the pick up and pumps. That could end badly.

So cool. Really wanting to get a GEN3 engine in my car now.
 
Thanks bud, didn't forget though, strainer has a brand new Toyota gasket and I have two brand new orings ready to go on when I'm ready to seat the sump
 
Thanks, well it previously made 157kW at the wheels (just over 200 horsepower) and this new head and cams are no different so with a bit of a raise of boost pressure I'm guessing maybe a tad more. So not a huge amount but the goal is reliability, to ensure it stays making that power at the track.

Nice! That's roughly the same figure I'm hoping to get out of mine. Currently at 143kW (according to factory figures) but I'm making a few small mods to the intake system (new intake boot and panel filter) and getting a remap soon. Hoping to crack 150kW. Would be nice to see a bit more than that though, but I don't have the turbo to play with. :(
 
Nice! That's roughly the same figure I'm hoping to get out of mine. Currently at 143kW (according to factory figures) but I'm making a few small mods to the intake system (new intake boot and panel filter) and getting a remap soon. Hoping to crack 150kW. Would be nice to see a bit more than that though, but I don't have the turbo to play with. :(
I don't get too caught up in numbers, it's how it drives and how much enjoyment you get out of it that's important.

There are plenty of GT-Fours with double the power I'm making or more but they have spent a fortune in doing it. It's all a cost vs benefit thing. I just wanted to make mine reliable so I can come to the track, smash around it for the day, then go home. I'd rather spend the money on things like oil cooling instead of chasing more power.

Next priority for me is larger brakes, for the same reason as above.

Not to say I wouldn't love a 250kW at the wheels setup, but it requires a level of investment I can't justify currently.
 
I don't get too caught up in numbers, it's how it drives and how much enjoyment you get out of it that's important.

There are plenty of GT-Fours with double the power I'm making or more but they have spent a fortune in doing it. It's all a cost vs benefit thing. I just wanted to make mine reliable so I can come to the track, smash around it for the day, then go home. I'd rather spend the money on things like oil cooling instead of chasing more power.

Next priority for me is larger brakes, for the same reason as above.

Not to say I wouldn't love a 250kW at the wheels setup, but it requires a level of investment I can't justify currently.
I hear ya completely! I'm of the exact same mind (although mostly because I'm also saving up to buy a house) and I also like to spend a little money tidying things up, so she's in top shape.

Would love to see a video of your Celica at a track day.
 
I hear ya completely! I'm of the exact same mind (although mostly because I'm also saving up to buy a house) and I also like to spend a little money tidying things up, so she's in top shape.

Would love to see a video of your Celica at a track day.
My pleasure.. Here is a vid with my best laps from each layout, plus a spin at the end of the video. Has different views too which is good. No external footage though.

Yeah mate I hear ya on the money priorities. I have a wife, 3 kids, dog, family car to suit and a house and so the fun car is relegated to a hobby but I'm fortunate that my wife is incredibly supportive and supports my passions! I have 2 of them, sim racing is the second hence being on this forum. Here's my setup.
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My pleasure.. Here is a vid with my best laps from each layout, plus a spin at the end of the video. Has different views too which is good. No external footage though.

Yeah mate I hear ya on the money priorities. I have a wife, 3 kids, dog, family car to suit and a house and so the fun car is relegated to a hobby but I'm fortunate that my wife is incredibly supportive and supports my passions! I have 2 of them, sim racing is the second hence being on this forum. Here's my setup.
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Love the spin. Was that from lift-off oversteer? Your turbo sounds awesome on bumper cam! And that helmet camera view made me feel a little sick... How many GoPros do you own?!

I've got the one car, it'll end up being a track car eventually. And my console set-up is my PS3 hooked up to the one and only TV in the house, in the lounge. So I get to use it when the mrs isn't home or is doing the dishes/dinner...
 
Love the spin. Was that from lift-off oversteer? Your turbo sounds awesome on bumper cam! And that helmet camera view made me feel a little sick... How many GoPros do you own?!

I've got the one car, it'll end up being a track car eventually. And my console set-up is my PS3 hooked up to the one and only TV in the house, in the lounge. So I get to use it when the mrs isn't home or is doing the dishes/dinner...
Crappy rear tires, too much speed and not enough talent to save it I think!

I just have the one GoPro but a friend of mine gave me his for the day as well. I was just experimenting with different views during the day.

Yeah, that's the whole reason I wanted one in the front bumper lol. Catches the turbo noise quite well :D
 
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And the new sump is on, used Loctite Blue Maxx sealant on it and new cap screws (mainly just for looks). Placed the bottom oil pan part on, checked out clearances for where I want to install the temp sensor so now just need to drill and weld the fitting on, paint it and that can also go on. Then fit the cams, timing belt, turbo, and all I'm waiting for then is the oil cooler and lines and I can fill it with oil :D
 
Looking good. Will it just start straight up once it's reassembled and be useable from there?
Not really, because the ECU map is locked by the tuner I'm not able to lock the ignition in order to set the base ignition timing. I can get it in the ball park but not good enough to drive it. I'm also changing to a different coolant temp sensor which will need to be recalibrated.

That and it will need to be retuned to suit the new head as there will be subtle differences and I'm going to go for a bit of a raise of boost pressure too, and also need the oil temp and oil pressure sensors configured and added in to the engine protection parameters, so, yeah, needs a tow to the tuner for a retune.

My goal is to add some cheap oil and a cheap filter, fill it with coolant, get it idling and warm, make sure the coolant is all bled properly and that there are no oil or water leaks, do a compression test, and once all that's done dump the oil and filter and fill it with good stuff and a Toyota filter so it can go for the tune.
 
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